duggy's build thread: 1998 Land Cruiser #SAS100

[00cruizer]

I got an oem rack off amazon about $570 free shipping from some Lexus dealership. Did you replace high pressure hose gasket? If so where did you get it?

 

[duggy]

I got an oem rack off amazon about $570 free shipping from some Lexus dealership. Did you replace high pressure hose gasket? If so where did you get it?

My high pressure line was busted so I went ahead and replaced it with an aftermarket part that came with new copper seals.

 

[duggy]

UPDATE:

After all of the work that was performed the 100 took on 1200 miles (10% of which were dirt roads) great. The steering rack felt great the whole weekend and I had no worries about leaks or wobbly steering going 75MPH. I did notice a small rise in gas mileage and averaged around 14MPG to Arkansas.

Some small issues I found on the trip there:

• The top nut for my front Fox Shocks were loose and there was no way I could tighten it. Luckily it is a lock nut so it didn't come loose during the trip.
• My Blue Seas auto charging relay has been inoperative since I switched it over from my 80 but I finally figured out that it was a bad ground. I grounded it to another point on the chassis and now get the correct lights that should be on.
• I need to bend back the front lower valance panel a smidge as the Dissent front bumper rubs on it and makes that horrible sound reminiscent of egg cartons.

I also had some realizations on the direction I want to take the 100:

• I really want to get some type of permanent water tank solution installed. Jerry cans are nice but they can be clunky to handle at times
• I want to build a real rear drawer system where I can utilize all of the space
• I really hate the PVC cover on my current RTT. Maybe a fiberglass hard shell is in my future.

Here are some pictures from our Ozarks trip. We really took our time on this trip so the pace was really relaxed. If we couldn't fit the trails into the day we would fit them into the next day.

 

[duggy]

 

[00cruizer]

Check your power steering reservoir to see if the screen filter is caked with crud, a shop replace my rack and this was pointed out to me & suggested I replace. Took it home and soaked in clr and shook most chunks out, then blasted rest out with brake cleaner. Also cut handle off baby bottle attached to hand drill & spun it inside. Rinsed with steering fluid to get out chemicals. Came out almost new looking.

 

[duggy]

Updates!

I took it out to Barnwell this weekend to do some wheelin. I'm really getting out and starting to enjoy the Cruiser more as before I kinda let it go due to body work and issues here and there. I found a second love for it and am really trying to resolve all remaining issues such as my dead secondary DHP battery and getting the kinks out of the dual battery setup.

 

[duggy]

 

[duggy]

I need to get better at updating my build thread but the 100 is about to go under some major surgery. After rebuilding my whole front end, I broke what seems to be a couple of teeth on the ring and pinion on a hill climb that I needed to keep momentum on. I wheel my 100 regularly but don't think I push it too hard but with 300k miles on it, it's getting pretty tired and needs some strengthening up front.

In frustration of the fragile IFS front end, I've decided to SAS my 100 and follow @40Habits build thread and use 80 series axles. There's a few reasons I went with 80 series axles instead of a custom front axle:

• Change lug pattern to 6x5.5 for more wheel choices
• Maintain OEM serviceable Toyota parts
• Cost

My approach to the SAS is to find a medium balance between cost and reliability. I don't have the 25k to drop my ride off at Slee but I do have the "can do" attitude, a welder, an evergrowing collection of fab tools and ability to figure stuff out. @40Habits has already done a lot of the engineering work needed to fit 80 axles and I'm very thankful for that. I picked up some e-locked 80 axles out of a HDJ80 in Dallas from @joekatana for a great deal. The only downside is they are rusted from either being on the coast or salty roads. I'm not worried about the rust since I'll be sandblasting both axles and cutting most brackets off of the front axle. The rough plan is to run the following

• ORI air struts in the fronts
• Maintain Fox 2.0 Resis in the rear with whatever springs necessary to fit 37s
• 80 series PS gear box
• Y-link steering with GM 1-ton TREs
• Radius arm setup in the front
• Wire up front and rear lockers to factory dial
• 37" tires
• 4.88 gears
• Rebuild F/R axle with new knuckle/axle seals, wipers, bearings

I've sunk a lot of time and money into the front end with diff drop, new steering rack, Sway-A-Way torsion bars, Fox 2.0 shocks so I hope to get some funds back from selling off those items. I most likely will not need the Slee skid plates anymore so those will go also. I hope to have this project done in 3 months which may be a bit ambitious but I think it can be done. Once this is done and everything gets dialed in, I think I'll be selling my 80 since it's redundant to have 2 Cruisers with SFA, especially since my 100 is setup pretty much how I want. I hope with the SAS I can finally stop wondering "what is that clunking noise?" when we go wheeling

Enough of the rambling, onto some pictures. Before you pass judgement on the rust, I ask for you to keep in mind that these will be completely rebuilt and sandblasted.

 

[Kofoed]

Good luck!

 

[TheForger]

Another SAS 100 series, this will be interesting!!

 

[SS100]

I'm up for handing wrenches, using a hammer and opening beers!

 

[crimsonaudio]

Ambitious - I look forward to the updates!

 

[duggy]

Ambitious is a very accurate word! After tackling the Monstaline and now this job, I've had friends tell me I'm ADD. I think of it more as staying busy by constantly researching and reading about certain things I can do. I enjoy the research and then learning how to execute things afterwards. Even if I fail the first time, I can always learn how to better the process the next time around.

I grabbed a couple more tools to make my life a bit easier. I had my eye on a parts washer and a sand blaster for a while and this was the perfect time to acquire both of these items. The table was avaialble at Home Depot for $69. It's 72" so it's perfect for working on the axles but I also needed another workbench so this worked out well.

Assembling the parts washer was pretty quick, but the sand blaster was more involved

Had a helper while I was assembling the tools

 

[duggy]

Everything tucked away as best as I could get it. I still need to park my daily driver in here so I had to cram everything in and still be able to park the car inside.

I started tearing into the axle by draining it and things are looking pretty solid inside. I have no concerns so far.

 

[duggy]

 

[duggy]

Parts are being soaked in diesel right now. I bought the "heavy duty" degreaser from Harbor Freight but that stuff is crap. Diesel is the bee's knees. Since my wife still works in the garage, I put the parts washer outside since I don't want her clothes smelling diesel.

 

[duggy]

I finished disassembling the front and rear axles this weekend and finished getting them both for sand blast prep. The axle housings will contract out and be blasted by a 3rd party namely because my 60 gallon Puma compressor cannot keep up with the sand blaster and I'll most likely kill the motor if I do it at home. For sub $100 this axle can be blasted, cleaned and prepped for paint so I think it's a no-brainer. I can still blast the small parts at home and the blaster is definitely handy for getting gunk and grime off. I purchased a new blasting gun and it feeds much better than the dinky one that comes in the HF blast cabinet.

Some comparision pics of the front calipers

Rear axle being lifted and placed on prep table

 

[duggy]

Front locker actuator motor compared to the rear actuator in the background. The thing I found with having a sand blaster at home is that it's so easy to get fixated on getting every little spec of dirt and paint off when its simply not necessary. Just blast to bare metal, prep and paint it.

Front drive flanges

Steering arm

I've always needed one of these SST to pull the locking ring off the rear axle housings that sets preload for the rear bearings. I'll clean this up and round off the edges but it worked beautifully.

 

[duggy]

Rear axle disassembled and taking a look at the spindle for the rear bearings. You can see the mega rust that accumulated on the rear axle. My thoughts is this guy towed a boat and constantly dipped the rear axle housing in salt water. Regardless, everything else looks fine except for the exterior.

 

[duggy]

Locker acutators getting painted with Rustoelum enamel. I've read that enamel is best to use after blasting parts as it has penetrating properties to dig into the voids created when sand blasting. I've always had great luck with this paint so it worked out well.

I prepped the axle to be blasted by taping up the ends and throwing the 3rd members back in

The 100 as it sits in her glory. I can't wait until the axle gets placed under here.