Dual Battery Upgrade - The Modular Way (1 Viewer)

[TeCKis300]

I'm taking my own advice today and pulling the trigger on a new dual battery setup.

A portable Goal Zero Yeti 1000 unit, with built in everything. In my mind, this is the best way to dual batteries. It might seem expensive at first blush, but in reality, this is probably the most cost effective, flexible, and straightforward expanded on board battery solution. That covers everything including 5V, 12V, 120V.

Given the smart alternators on today's vehicles, tossing in a second battery bank on board, tied in with an isolator and some wires is no longer possible. One needs to add a DC-to-DC charger. And lots of expensive heavy gauge wire, interconnects, fuses, more wiring and power distribution. Don't forget another pricey heavy component, the inverter if you want 120V. If one must do onboard, I'd highly recommend the following to avoid a DC-to-DC charger - KISS Dual Battery Upgrade

Don't forget solar! It couldn't be easier than the integrated solar chargers on these portable power stations. Mount a panel to the roof rack, get an MC4 to 8mm or Anderson adapter, that's it.

The only integration I need is a $39.99 10amp car charger*. Whether for the car or in my travel trailer to take advantage of the solar installed on the roof. The portability and flexibility makes this battery a swiss knife rather than a one trick expedition toy.

*Note that some have found the rear cig lighter is not up to task for 10amp charging due to too small gauge of wiring and voltage drop. That's simple to rectify by adding a new independently wired and fused cig lighter to the rear.

Extras:
- Goal Zero now also makes a 50amp car charger for power users
- Toss 50-200W of solar panels on the roof to enable solar charging and practically unlimited power.
- I have a portable 100W panel to recharge with - Amazon product ASIN B07FH85FW9

Bonus - Costco has a sale ending today, $200 off, or $799 - https://www.costco.com/Goal-Zero-Yeti-1000-Lithium-Portable-Power-Station.product.100469980.html

 

[vapilotda]

Too funny you posted this as I was staring at the Costco add today thinking the same thing. I just bought a propane genconnex honda for the airstream so I think it will be a bit before I get one those. I think it's a great idea!

 

[Mogwai]

This should be a solid setup but I don't think it's all rainbows and unicorns. It's portable yes, but a nice thing about a dual battery mounted to the engine bay is you don't have to lug it around, and it doesn't take up space in the truck. You also can't jump a truck with Yeti, and of course you cant run a truck with it so should your primary fail you're out of luck. Plus add the cost of a lithium jump pack. Solar panels are great, but taking up your entire roof rack could be a deal breaker for some. And not everyone needs AC power, I sure don't, so buying an inverter is a non-issue for some. If you have camp lights, or a fridge running from you main battery would be no bueno. Having your fridge plugged in constantly to your Yeti defeats the portability. And the wires! You'll have so many wires strewn about, it would drive me nuts.

Traditional dual battery setups are not cheap or easy to install, mine is pretty simple and I spent $750 all-in with a $250 battery, and it took way longer than I would have liked. Not at all saying the traditional setup is any better (or worse).

 

[tbisaacs]

I may go this route too. I have a 400 that is great.

REI is about to put the 1000 on sale for 25% off. Amazon had refurbished units for a while for under 700 but someone snatched them all up.

Not sure why this setup gets so much flack. The Yeti 1000 is 96AH of sweet lithium goodness.

 

[Bunga]

REI can also get overlanding fridges under that sale. Nothing wrong at all with goal zero, but I use a slee second battery setup and all of the Mogwai points are true for me. I already had the battery so that was all less than $120 total. The next gen lithium will be amazing and I'll shift that way when it happens.

 

[molanginaeda]

I have GZ yeti 1000 lithium setup too. With GZ solar panel and a few GZ accessories, I really don't need 2nd battery setup. Also, this setup is portable and can be moved to a different rig easily. I can recharged my rig battery via solar or top off the Yeti.

If you're using Yeti 1000 or above, I strongly suggest upgrading MPPT controller (this would used up the expansion slot). This controller can yield as much as 75% more efficient than the builtin PWM controller.

 

[molanginaeda]

Reading the comment and looking at GZ website, the car charging option looks awesome. But there is only one expansion slot, so only one expansion upgrade can be exist. The MPPT controller need to be remove just to enable car charging option. That's bad. GZ need a yeti with multiple expansion slot or have a AIO expansion module.

 

[TeCKis300]

This should be a solid setup but I don't think it's all rainbows and unicorns. It's portable yes, but a nice thing about a dual battery mounted to the engine bay is you don't have to lug it around, and it doesn't take up space in the truck. You also can't jump a truck with Yeti, and of course you cant run a truck with it so should your primary fail you're out of luck. Plus add the cost of a lithium jump pack. Solar panels are great, but taking up your entire roof rack could be a deal breaker for some. And not everyone needs AC power, I sure don't, so buying an inverter is a non-issue for some. If you have camp lights, or a fridge running from you main battery would be no bueno. Having your fridge plugged in constantly to your Yeti defeats the portability. And the wires! You'll have so many wires strewn about, it would drive me nuts.

Traditional dual battery setups are not cheap or easy to install, mine is pretty simple and I spent $750 all-in with a $250 battery, and it took way longer than I would have liked. Not at all saying the traditional setup is any better (or worse).

Ah, but we all know rainbows and unicorns are not real. This is the real deal with as much goodness as puppies and teddy bears. Yet
this doesn't in any way dismiss built in setups and could even co-exist in tandem. I may very well upgrade my onboard power to a single group 31. I have much less of a need now, but more power right?

Mostly fair but not completely accurate points:
- The Yeti can definitely charge and jump start a car (its been done). I still have a jump starter I keep between this and my other cars.
- Solar is an independent decision just as it is for built in batts. Point is that it's easily enabled
- AC power, IMO there's rarely a need for huge battery reserves if one doesn't need AC power
- Camp lighting, trivial and doesn't need any of this
- Fridge would be child's play for a batt like this; one could easily unplug and use it flexibly, and plug it right back without any concern as fridges are great coolers first and cycle anyways

I do a lot of mixed camping almost twice a month. From car camping, RV camping, to tent camping. The flexibility and value is the selling point for me. If all I did was car expeditions, truthfully I'd probably still choose this option.

 

[TeCKis300]

Reading the comment and looking at GZ website, the car charging option looks awesome. But there is only one expansion slot, so only one expansion upgrade can be exist. The MPPT controller need to be remove just to enable car charging option. That's bad. GZ need a yeti with multiple expansion slot or have a AIO expansion module.

The expansion slot is for specialized capabilities. There's actually tons of charge inputs: 8mm and Anderson ports that that be used and stacked. Interestingly, one could double or triple up on the plain 12V 10amp car charger with the other ports, or home brew a stacked/larger transformer into a single Anderson plug.

 

[Mogwai]

Ah, but we all know rainbows and unicorns are not real. This is the real deal with as much goodness as puppies and teddy bears. Yet
this doesn't in any way dismiss built in setups and could even co-exist in tandem. I may very well upgrade my onboard power to a single group 31. I have much less of a need now, but more power right?

Mostly fair but not completely accurate points:
- The Yeti can definitely charge and jump start a car (its been done). I still have a jump starter I keep between this and my other cars.
- Solar is an independent decision just as it is for built in batts. Point is that it's easily enabled
- AC power, IMO there's rarely a need for huge battery reserves if one doesn't need AC power
- Camp lighting, trivial and doesn't need any of this
- Fridge would be child's play for a batt like this; one could easily unplug and use it flexibly, and plug it right back without any concern as fridges are great coolers first and cycle anyways

I do a lot of mixed camping almost twice a month. From car camping, RV camping, to tent camping. The flexibility and value is the selling point for me. If all I did was car expeditions, truthfully I'd probably still choose this option.

Definitely looking forward to the (un)biased review once you have had time to put the setup to use! As for jumping your truck, just remember not all Goal Zeros are lithium batteries, I was under the assumption (based on posted internet responses from Yeti) that the lithium versions are not designed to quickly dump hundreds of amps and were not able to jump a vehicle. Sure maybe the lead-acid versions can or maybe the lithiums can too in a pinch? But really, that's not the biggest factor for me - having a 2nd battery in case the 1st starter battery can't be jumped/hold charge, so that I can get home w/out a tow, is wayyyyy more important to me than simply having extra power to power stuff I probably don't even need on the trail in the first place. Traveling w/ family and dogs, I want to minimize being stranded as much as I can.

The life-cycle on the lithiums are about the same as lead-acid - about 5 years/500 cycles (80% drain though vs <50% for lead acid). My point is just that you'll need to replace the battery or entire unit just as often, Does Yeti even offer a replacement for the 1000? You can get a new Lead-acid or AGM just about anywhere for $100 - $250 so the value argument really comes down to how you want to use it. Like I said, not saying the setup you're going for doesn't have it's pros, certainly does.

PS. curious what items you bring with that need AC?
PPS. working with a couple local guys to turn old Nissan Leaf batteries into various on-board power solutions. We'll see how that goes.

 

[TeCKis300]

Definitely looking forward to the (un)biased review once you have had time to put the setup to use! As for jumping your truck, just remember not all Goal Zeros are lithium batteries, I was under the assumption (based on posted internet responses from Yeti) that the lithium versions are not designed to quickly dump hundreds of amps and were not able to jump a vehicle. Sure maybe the lead-acid versions can or maybe the lithiums can too in a pinch? But really, that's not the biggest factor for me - having a 2nd battery in case the 1st starter battery can't be jumped/hold charge, so that I can get home w/out a tow, is wayyyyy more important to me than simply having extra power to power stuff I probably don't even need on the trail in the first place. Traveling w/ family and dogs, I want to minimize being stranded as much as I can.

The life-cycle on the lithiums are about the same as lead-acid - about 5 years/500 cycles (80% drain though vs <50% for lead acid). My point is just that you'll need to replace the battery or entire unit just as often, Does Yeti even offer a replacement for the 1000? You can get a new Lead-acid or AGM just about anywhere for $100 - $250 so the value argument really comes down to how you want to use it. Like I said, not saying the setup you're going for doesn't have it's pros, certainly does.

PS. curious what items you bring with that need AC?
PPS. working with a couple local guys to turn old Nissan Leaf batteries into various on-board power solutions. We'll see how that goes.

I'll admit I'm excited about this expensive piece of kit and it may seem I'm not giving a fair shake to the classic setup. Truth is, I've given this a lot of thought and consideration. More than most know. I'm not beholden to any one solution nor battery chemistry. Different choices make sense for different applications; and users. For starting battery on vehicle, absolutely lead acid because there is a dependency on the alternator charging profile. For secondary bank served by a DC-to-DC charger, whatever your fancy that the charger supports. For my travel trailer, lead acid again, but in 6V guise.

It may not seem it, but I am value driven. I'm excited about lithium (where it makes sense because of weight advantages) because of the value that it represents, given the capacity, functionality and capability, in the mixed ways I'll use it.

You're not incorrect to say these Yeti's aren't for jumping. But that's only true because it's not exactly setup for it in its output ports and internal wiring gauge's. Lithium's are classically known to be able to provide huge currents. One could gang multiple Anderson ports to have enough wiring support. Then procedurally, allow it to charge the main battery a bit before hitting the starter. If all else fails, a bit of Macgyvering can definitely have a lithium provide 12V juice to get out, even with an alternator failure.

To the point about having a secondary failsafe - One has to be sure that in installing a dual battery setup, they are not compromising the reliability of the stock electrical system. I can say for a fact, in more than one instance observed on this forum, that the dual battery setup has been the direct cause of battery failure. For non-technical people that are not considering system level dependencies and implications, the chances of decreasing reliability is high.

What do I bring that needs AC? I camp with a large group regularly. I've been known to cheat with the inverter on my travel trailer or Honda eu2200i genny to brew coffee, cook with crock pot, blend smoothies and drinks, TV, etc. For travel trailer, A/C when stopping for lunch, blow dryer, coffee maker. For car camping, I intend to use it for a heated mattress pad (winter camping) and small 600W k-cup coffee maker.

Very cool with the old leaf batts. I was very much considering using old Tesla packs to homebrew my own portable and installed battery pack on the RV. Still may in the future. The $799 for a 1000Wh Yeti makes it not worth my time at the moment.

 

[Markuson]

More than most know. I'm not beholden to any one solution nor battery chemistry.

.....

 

[ckkone]

I’m glad you are happy with your purchase.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Having previously ran dual batteries and done a TON of custom wiring/electrical, I could not agree more that a setup like the GoalZero is the best way to go for anyone that's not literally traveling the world in their vehicle for years at a time.

 

[TeCKis300]

I may go this route too. I have a 400 that is great.

REI is about to put the 1000 on sale for 25% off. Amazon had refurbished units for a while for under 700 but someone snatched them all up.

Not sure why this setup gets so much flack. The Yeti 1000 is 96AH of sweet lithium goodness.

Looks like the REI sale is now live! Big Batts, big coolers, big bad expensive hipster stuff 25% off.

 

[supercarrera]

Looks like the REI sale is now live! Big Batts, big coolers, big bad expensive hipster stuff 25% off.

Yeah I'm thinking about using my 20% off coupon on a Dometic 35 quart fridge.

 

[Fisher23]

If you run this into the ground, how many hours on a 12 volt charger does it take to recharge?

 

[Fisher23]

Can you plug a solar panel directly into this? that is does it have a solar panel controller built in?

 

[Fisher23]

I found the answer on GZ .. 18 hours to recharge.

 

[TeCKis300]

I found the answer on GZ .. 18 hours to recharge.

That's the basic answer. Which also speaks to how darn big this battery really is too (98Ah).

Chargers can be stacked. A single 12V car charger is 10 amps. You can stack 3 - 30 amps. Or further combine solar and car charging.

Or get the big boy Yeti Link Car Charger for a huge 50 amps. 0 to 100% charged in 1.5 to 2.5hrs.