Dual Battery Setup (1 Viewer)

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I had no idea that the dual deep cycle RV/marine batteries aren't meant for starting.
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I should have explained further why I went with the Duracell from Batteries Plus. It wasn't just price, My brother worked at the Batteries Plus in Birmingham. He turned me on to Duracell. To 2nd what @Cruiserdrew said, he also said they were made here in America and never had issues. He said the Optimas were always having issues.

I try to support local, but sometimes buying from a chain like Batteries Plus is nice because they are everywhere. Another plus is the warranty is in the computer so it doesn't matter what store your at if your having issues.

I'll give him a call and follow up with his thoughts about the Duracell.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Those Duracell batteries are rebadged Deka batteries. Excellent batteries.

Next time in Charlotte, I'd love to meet up with some NC cruiserheads. I'll bring my brother so at least we can show up in a Land Cruiser. My rental Hyundai won't cut it!
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Duracell/Deka is good to know. It sucks that I recently had a custom mount installed for a 5 year old Optima... Off to take some measurements now.

I'll let you drive one of mine, Drew. You like being embarrassed, right? :rofl:
 
In that busses, tractors, diesel pickups, big rigs, gen packs, dozers, etc have been wiring multiple batts in parallel for years I have no trouble with that configuration. The negative (Ha!) is that when it is "time" to replace one battery it is time to replace both.

Yup, as mentioned .... thicker plates means a smaller number of plates and thus the loss of surface area. Keep in mind, even deep cycle batteries are not supposed to be pulled down to below about 40%.
 
Now you're talking. That one is 75 Ah which is 50% more than you were talking and the cost is less than half. Actually, even less because you won't have to replace the starting battery.
 
I don't think I have the "real estate" to do two 24's.

I pulled mine out and looked at all options tonight.

I think I have two options:

1. Commit to two 34 batteries. I would have to do some cutting to make this work under the fuses where the battery tie down is. Once I start cutting, there is no going back. :) I will have t really jam things in there with this method. I don't want to do this.

2. Possibly a 35 for starter and then the 24 as house battery. I think I can easily move the radiator overflow. I will have to somehow make a custom tray and tie down situation.

SLI35M - Duracell Ultra Gold Maintenance Free Car Battery at Batteries Plus Bulbs

The Tundra has a LOT of free space, but not much of it is really useful for batteries.
 
The reason I am a big fan of isolated setup, is because my dual battery experience is rooted in marine applications. On boats (and expo rigs too) you often have a number of electronics and other devices pulling power fairly constantly. Outboards don't make a lot of current at troll speed and obviously if you are freshwater fishing with the motor off (trolling motor, fish finder, etc) you can run a battery down without thinking twice. Granted, a parallel setup theoretically gives you 2x the AH, but if you happen to drain them both, or god forbid drop a cell, you could find yourself stuck in the middle of a lake or 50 miles off. Not good. For about $150 you can get a good isolation charging system, and if you need to, throw the batteries in parallel for starting with the selector switch.

My Dmax is dual batteries in parallel, and yeah - it sucks to replace them both at the same time, but that's not really THAT big of an issue. That truck (and my driving habits) is tough on batteries. Glow plugs and intake heater are big power suckers in the winter and when your commute is only a few miles there isn't sufficient time to charge the batteries back up each time you go somewhere.
 
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mtweller said:
The reason I am a big fan of isolated setup, is because my dual battery experience is rooted in marine applications. On boats (and expo rigs too) you often have a number of electronics and other devices pulling power fairly constantly. Outboards don't make a lot of current at troll speed and obviously if you are freshwater fishing with the motor off (trolling motor, fish finder, etc) you can run a battery down without thinking twice. Granted, a parallel setup theoretically gives you 2x the AH, but if you happen to drain them both, or god forbid drop a cell, you could find yourself stuck in the middle of a lake or 50 miles off. Not good. For about $150 you can get a good isolation charging system, and if you need to, throw the batteries in parallel for starting with the selector switch.

My Dmax is dual batteries in parallel, and yeah - it sucks to replace them both at the same time, but that's not really THAT big of an issue. That truck (and my driving habits) is tough on batteries. Glow plugs and intake heater are big power suckers in the winter and when your commute is only a few miles there isn't sufficient time to charge the batteries back up each time you go somewhere.
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Agree. If for marine applications and if camping scenarios allowed for a possible full drain an isolator is called for.

Jamie, so the problem with fitment is with height? Since I believe the footprint for the Type 24 and 34 are the same.
 
Rice said:
Agree. If for marine applications and if camping scenarios allowed for a possible full drain an isolator is called for.

Jamie, so the problem with fitment is with height? Since I believe the footprint for the Type 24 and 34 are the same.
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Not height - battery length. The reason for the 35 would be I could get under 10" and get it in there.

The 24/34 in some forms are 10" (Optima), but in others are 10.5"+. I would get the 35 (9.5") in where space is tight and then put the 24 where I have more room.

I will take a pic when I get home tonight.
 
Great info on this thread.

I just finished installing dual batteries two weekends ago. I decided to go to Costco and got a regular lead acid starting battery and a lead acid deep cycle battery as my house battery. I did this because it was advice from someone I trust and respect, it was cheap enough to "learn" on and at the end of the day after the learning curve if i wanted to upgrade the house battery it would be easy.

I ended up piecing together the switch and ACR because the "add a battery" kit through amazon was on a 3 month back order and i just did't have patience for that.

I did end up getting all my wire through amazon as well as the wire ends. I purchased a cheap hydraulic crimper from harbor freight for about $40. I also went to lowes and sourced some heavy duty shrink wrap.

After a nice sketch plan from cruiser drew, i started working my way through it.

Tried the set-up out last weekend and it worked perfectly. My house battery was used to charge cell phones, fridge, RC and Drone batteries and was topped off with the solar panels. Checked the voltage on the starter battery and it remained topped off throughout the trip.

Really glad i did this.

The only thing i have left to do is figure out where to put my washer bottle. Because I have the Helton shower heater installed up on the firewall, relocating the washer bottle where most put it using slee's bracket isn't going to work. So, i either have to rethink the shower location or come up with an option for the washer bottle.
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Nice work.
 
Andrew - I did already order the Blue Sea one, but I am sure someone here would love that National Luna.
 
jamesurq said:
I had no idea that the dual deep cycle RV/marine batteries aren't meant for starting.
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Not exactly true... If you run a single battery, I believe deep cycle batteries are better than starter batteries if you are going to run an SUV with power draining accessories (winch, fridge, lots of lights, ridiculous sound system, etc). The starter battery is not what you want to rely on in a situation where you are having to put a huge load on the battery between cycles. Winching is an ideal example. If I switch to a dual setup, the starter/deep cycle makes the most sense. Since I have power draining accessories and a single battery, deep cycle is my preference. I love these debates. ;)

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Pulled the trigger on a couple battery boxes and batteries:

Batteries:

Starter: SLI35M - Duracell Ultra Gold Maintenance Free Car Battery at Batteries Plus Bulbs
House: SLI24MDC - Duracell Ultra Battery Deep Cycle BCI Group 24M Marine and Boat at Batteries Plus Bulbs

Boxes: 9 and 11" versions of these: NEW LIGHTWEIGHT BATTERY BOX,9" WD.,BOLT-ON,RACING,DRAG | eBay

I will have to get creative on the mounting, but have some cutting board coming to help out :)

I have almost all parts together now. Just need the actual relay.



Edit: Additional info:

On the mount, I will bolt the 1/2" HD Poly cutting board stuff on the false floor where the current battery is located where it will be cut to fit the foot print that is basically 9-11" x ~13".

The two boxes will be bolted to the poly as well as be bolted back-to-back together with more poly in between to help align the bolt holes, etc.
 
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