Dual battery question/issue (1 Viewer)

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I purchased a vehicle a few months ago with a dual battery system installed. Both batteries were charged in the 12.5 volt range. Over time, the secondary battery has lost it's charge. I don't drive a lot and suspect this may be the culprit, but not sure. I have taken a couple of long trips since I purchased her, and it seems to rectify itself. I doubt that it is good for the battery to sit with a low charge for weeks at a time, so should I look at some sort of battery maintenance device to keep them both topped off while not on the road? Thanks for your input.
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MANUCHAO

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Rectify to what 12.5 DCV¿
That's kind of on the low end.. it should read 12.7 or 12.8 DCV....
A multimeter should be able to tell yah what the alternator output is (13+ volts or higher) in real time...
Yah if you don't drive it that much a battery tender will prolong battery life... And keep them top charged...
 
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How old are the batteries? If 4+ years, you should start thinking about new batteries. Aging can reduce the capacity to hold a charge. A maintainer can help, but it's sort of a losing battle when you really want reliability.
 

Broski

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Are both the batteries the same ? Are you running something in the truck that requires dual batteries.
I prefer the Kiss plan, Keep it simple stupid (run one big battery) and get rid of all the extra wires and gizmos the make up the dual battery system.

I run a single group 31 Odyssey battery and have a 10k winch,12 volt On board air and a ARB 12 volt refrigerator never a issue, I have let the truck set for two days camping with the ARB going and the truck still fired right up.
 
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Are both the batteries the same ? Are you running something in the truck that requires dual batteries.
I prefer the Kiss plan...

I tend to agree on KISS, but I have to run a CPAP in the woods every night, plus start the truck in morning, so definitely need the backup of diual batteries (winch, fridge, etc aside.)

Based on research, most spendier dual battery systems have no problem charging different size batteries used in auto installs. Different battery chemistries can be an issue, but not the problem here. I run Insterstates, a standard starting battery in the primary position and a combo deep cycle/starting battery in the AUX position. Works fine until the batteries get old (~4 years.)
 

Broski

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Sorry OP, but this just looks like a accident waiting to happen, I don't see any tie down for the battery, the power post is on the wrong side and one big bump from shorting out on the body and the average Joe would not have a clue what to do if it were shorting out.
 

Broski

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I tend to agree on KISS, but I have to run a CPAP in the woods every night, plus start the truck in morning, so definitely need the backup of diual batteries (winch, fridge, etc aside.)

Based on research, most spendier dual battery systems have no problem charging different size batteries used in auto installs. Different battery chemistries can be an issue, but not the problem here. I run Insterstates, a standard starting battery in the primary position and a combo deep cycle/starting battery in the AUX position. Works fine until the batteries get old (~4 years.)
That why I asked what he was running, I go to the woods to get a way from CRAP, I prefer the minimalist approach to camping and don't bring a bunch of stuff that needs to be plugged in. If I were concerned about my reg not starting I would prefer a jump box, It's much simpler can be used on other vehicles and can be carried to remote locations and the newer ones can be solar recharged.
 
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I bought a 100w solar panel kit off amazon and hooked it up to the 2nd batt. Keeps it topped off when I'm not driving and is great for running the fridge and accessories while camping.

Minor hijack here - how do you connect your solar panel to your single battery? I like that idea, but I'd like to keep it as simple as possible.
Thanks.
 
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That why I asked what he was running, I go to the woods to get a way from CRAP...

Yeah, I like to get away from crap, too, but my doctor says I die without the CPAP (continuous positive airway pressure) machine.

I also have a hefty portable battery pack/jump charger. If it doesn't have a manual tranny, you can't push to start, so even without a definite need for something to carry extra loads, everyone should have a backup unless you travel in groups of two or more. I'm typically by myself, so two backups is more reassuring.

In my case, the load is a definite every night thing, so makes sense to go to the trouble and expense to ensure not getting myself in a fix with a no start.
 
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Minor hijack here - how do you connect your solar panel to your single battery? I like that idea, but I'd like to keep it as simple as possible.
Thanks.
It’s very easy, the kit I bought came with a charge controller, you simply run the +/- wires from the charge controller to the battery, and will keep you nice and topped off.
B8AA62C4-F056-4106-AA13-7F5471BBA15A.jpeg
The thicker gauge is running to the panel on the roof, and the other two are going to the Aux battery. Pleasantly surprised at how good this thing works. In full sun I can have fridge on and charger batteries and barley see a drop in Volts.
 

Broski

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Yeah, I like to get away from crap, too, but my doctor says I die without the CPAP (continuous positive airway pressure) machine.

I also have a hefty portable battery pack/jump charger. If it doesn't have a manual tranny, you can't push to start, so even without a definite need for something to carry extra loads, everyone should have a backup unless you travel in groups of two or more. I'm typically by myself, so two backups is more reassuring.

In my case, the load is a definite every night thing, so makes sense to go to the trouble and expense to ensure not getting myself in a fix with a no start.
Excuse my ignorance, in your situation dual batteries is definitely the way to go plus a back up.
Kudos to you for continuing to get out there and do the things that make us happy. ;)
 
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It’s very easy, the kit I bought came with a charge controller, you simply run the +/- wires from the charge controller to the battery, and will keep you nice and topped off. View attachment 2524485The thicker gauge is running to the panel on the roof, and the other two are going to the Aux battery. Pleasantly surprised at how good this thing works. In full sun I can have fridge on and charger batteries and barley see a drop in Volts.
Thanks for posting that up. I appreciate you taking the time to put the photos in, too. Cheers.
 
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How old are the batteries? If 4+ years, you should start thinking about new batteries. Aging can reduce the capacity to hold a charge. A maintainer can help, but it's sort of a losing battle when you really want reliability.
14-15 months old
 
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Are both the batteries the same ? Are you running something in the truck that requires dual batteries.
I prefer the Kiss plan, Keep it simple stupid (run one big battery) and get rid of all the extra wires and gizmos the make up the dual battery system.

I run a single group 31 Odyssey battery and have a 10k winch,12 volt On board air and a ARB 12 volt refrigerator never a issue, I have let the truck set for two days camping with the ARB going and the truck still fired right up.
Sounds like a nice setup, thanks.
 

Broski

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It’s very easy, the kit I bought came with a charge controller, you simply run the +/- wires from the charge controller to the battery, and will keep you nice and topped off. View attachment 2524485The thicker gauge is running to the panel on the roof, and the other two are going to the Aux battery. Pleasantly surprised at how good this thing works. In full sun I can have fridge on and charger batteries and barley see a drop in Volts.
link to the kit you bought
 

SmokingRocks

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Sorry OP, but this just looks like a accident waiting to happen, I don't see any tie down for the battery, the power post is on the wrong side and one big bump from shorting out on the body and the average Joe would not have a clue what to do if it were shorting out.

I agree, sounds like you're on a path to correct these issues which is good. In addition to what Broski said, those breakers are not a good idea. They look like a trip and reset type which means if there is an issue they will trip for a period of time then come back on, if the issue persists it will arc again and trip. Not a good situation. They also look very undersized for the gauge wire that is coming off of it.

Other than those items you have some good hardware there.
 

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