Dual Battery: National Luna or IBS kit?

[milemarker60]

It's recommended to fuse the positive feeds to the ACR close to the batt. I've used breakers in the past but never had one pop...it's more to protect from potential fire or short if one of the ACR leads comes disconnected or shorts. If you're using the 7610 breakers makes for an easy bank disconnect. If you use the 7622 you just turn the knob on top to lock out.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Thanks @Cruiserdrew. This is exactly what I am doing.

- Solar slide out on my INTI rack
- Dual battery system with the solar connected to the auxiliary battery
- Fridge, lights, inverter all powered by the auxiliary battery

Don't know that I will concern myself with the self-jumping option. Just don't see the need with solar and a second battery. I'd have to leave everything running with my 80 parked in the garage to drain down both batteries. I would like an isolator to be able to not draw off of my starting battery...just in case.

 

[ZA80]

My opinion have had the national Luna hated it for the following reason.
My deep cycle battery is normally much larger than my starter battery it never charges to full capacity. Thus my battery does not last all night for my fridge. My fridge cut off is set to 11.2v.

The National Luna battery monitor I find inaccurate.

I only run DC to DC systems and my battery gets charged fully.
I use a ctek d250s and my battery all charges fully. Also has solar input.

Rather put your own voltage monitor in.
DATEL DC Voltmeters

 

[Cruiserdrew]

For monitoring, I used these inexpensive waterproof voltmeters in 2 of my installs. They are wired to a center off Carling type switch, so I can turn it off, but you could leave it on if desired. Switch up is engine battery, switch down is house battery, center position is off. They draw 15 mAmps so a trivial amount of power.

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-DC2-5-30...roof voltmeter&qid=1461235980&ref_=sr_ph&sr=1

I have found them to be reasonably accurate, and they fit in the "coin slots" of the 80 console without modification. And the digital read out is more accurate and more intuitive than the National Luna LEDs.

 

[math]

Can I ask the question I've been asking myself lately? Why? I mean specifically, why do you want/need dual batts? For me it would be to power a fridge and a few additional lights, in which case I would only want the weight and complexity when I was touring, not full time. I've been looking into power packs like the Ark Pak, or Goal Zero Sherpa or even the NL battery pack. Might be something else to consider.

Sure, if you'll let us answer instead of him ;P

We live in an extremely cold climate, and starts are particularly hard as is. A backup, here in the high Rockies, is a very good idea.

 

[rc51kid]

I am just finishing a install of the hellroaring. Looks like a nice system with good customer service to help with the install. They recomend a VERY simple system of running everything off the main and having the 2nd as just a back up.

 

[Hornd]

Very little design needed. Really, this is easy.
1-Mount the ACR somewhere convenient. The back of the #2 battery box is a good spot for a 7610, or on the firewall
2-Connect the grounds of both batteries together. #2 Cable works perfectly
3-Connect + terminal of one battery to the big terminal of the ACR Again, #2 cable
4-Connect the + terminal of the second battery to the other big terminal of the ACR #2 cable
5-Connect the ACR negative terminal with small fused wire to ground of #1 battery
6-Go have a nice microbrew

Note: you will want to fuse your + cables at the battery. I like the MRBF form Blue Sea, or ANL fuses in a quality holder. With 2 gauge wire, 150 amp fuses will be about right.

I have ACRs on 3 trucks, all working perfectly. Can't say enough good things. If you come through Sac, I'd be happy to help you make up cables-I have a mondo crimper for large cables that doesn't get enough use.

How much #2 Wire should I order? Black & Red Colored Wire?

I ordered up the Blue Sea 7610, Crimps, and the OEM Battery Box, Will handle the Washer Relocation and bend battery hooks out of 1/4-20 All-Thread, Already cut the Angle that holds the battery out of Aluminum.

 

[lazy]

I'm sure 5' of each would be plenty, but I haven't done my system yet.

Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering why no one has used the Yadina C160? Combiner 160 Sheet

It's what I'm planning for on my dual battery setup once I get my swap driving.

 

[LS1FJ40]

How much #2 Wire should I order? Black & Red Colored Wire?

I ordered up the Blue Sea 7610, Crimps, and the OEM Battery Box, Will handle the Washer Relocation and bend battery hooks out of 1/4-20 All-Thread, Already cut the Angle that holds the battery out of Aluminum.

I ordered 10' of each. Had a foot or so left over. It's 5'ish from post. Then 3'ish from the posts of the second battery to the Blue Sea ACR. It doesn't bend easily and you want lazy turns. That takes up more wire.

 

[Hornd]

I'm sure 5' of each would be plenty, but I haven't done my system yet.

Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering why no one has used the Yadina C160? Combiner 160 Sheet

It's what I'm planning for on my dual battery setup once I get my swap driving.

Double the cost of the Blue Sea might have something to do with it.

Thanks for the wire Length!

 

[lazy]

Double the cost of the Blue Sea might have something to do with it.

Thanks for the wire Length!

I guess if you're headed to the market for either an apple or an orange, your view of "double the cost" might have some merit.

 

[Hornd]

Lots of Good Info:

Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV

Pretty neat he has already built cables for Cruisers.
Might have him make me an 80 set.

 

[Hornd]

Very little design needed. Really, this is easy.
1-Mount the ACR somewhere convenient. The back of the #2 battery box is a good spot for a 7610, or on the firewall
2-Connect the grounds of both batteries together. #2 Cable works perfectly
3-Connect + terminal of one battery to the big terminal of the ACR Again, #2 cable
4-Connect the + terminal of the second battery to the other big terminal of the ACR #2 cable
5-Connect the ACR negative terminal with small fused wire to ground of #1 battery
6-Go have a nice microbrew

Note: you will want to fuse your + cables at the battery. I like the MRBF form Blue Sea, or ANL fuses in a quality holder. With 2 gauge wire, 150 amp fuses will be about right.

I have ACRs on 3 trucks, all working perfectly. Can't say enough good things. If you come through Sac, I'd be happy to help you make up cables-I have a mondo crimper for large cables that doesn't get enough use.

When I look up cable there is 2 AWG and 2/0 Cable. Which are you saying to use?
American wire gauge - Wikipedia

 

[suadero]

I guess you could use 2/0 if you wanted to, but seems like overkill to me!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

2 AWG

Don't forget to fuse the hot leads right at the battery. 150 amp fuses will be about right.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

For monitoring, I used these inexpensive waterproof voltmeters in 2 of my installs. They are wired to a center off Carling type switch, so I can turn it off, but you could leave it on if desired. Switch up is engine battery, switch down is house battery, center position is off. They draw 15 mAmps so a trivial amount of power.

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-DC2-5-30V-Waterproof-Voltmeter-Monitoring/dp/B00CK3P20S?ie=UTF8&keywords=waterproof voltmeter&qid=1461235980&ref_=sr_ph&sr=1

I have found them to be reasonably accurate, and they fit in the "coin slots" of the 80 console without modification. And the digital read out is more accurate and more intuitive than the National Luna LEDs.

Would love to see how you wired the switch to show both batteries.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Would love to see how you wired the switch to show both batteries.

I'm doing the same, but I'm not done with it yet, not done with cleaning off the old wood grain adhesive either lol. I'm running a little on/off/on switch for mine.

 

[CJF]

Go on Expedition portal and look up National Luna, and you'll find many complaints about failed systems draining both batteries.

Well damn, that's what happened to me. Never really followed up on it and just disabled the system.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Would love to see how you wired the switch to show both batteries.

Easy-but I don't think I can manage a diagram...

You need a single pole, double throw, center off switch. I like Carling switches (Like ARB airlocker switches) but even a hardware store switch is fine.

Each battery feeds one side of the switch. The center pole of the switch goes to the voltmeter +. The volt meter negative just goes to ground anywhere convenient.

That way with the switch "on" to one side, you get the battery voltage from that side displayed on the voltmeter. "On" on the other side of the switch, displays the other battery voltage on the meter. Center position of the switch turns the meter off.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Easy-but I don't think I can manage a diagram...

You need a single pole, double throw, center off switch. I like Carling switches (Like ARB airlocker switches) but even a hardware store switch is fine.

Each battery feeds one side of the switch. The center pole of the switch goes to the voltmeter +. The volt meter negative just goes to ground anywhere convenient.

That way with the switch "on" to one side, you get the battery voltage from that side displayed on the voltmeter. "On" on the other side of the switch, displays the other battery voltage on the meter. Center position of the switch turns the meter off.

Simple enough thanks Drew!!