Dual Battery: National Luna or IBS kit?

[DanMedeiros]

Hi everyone,

I would like to add a dual battery kit to my 80 series in the next few weeks. I'm considering wither the National Luna or IBS smart solenoid/controller. Is one better than the other? Any preferences on deep cycle batteries too?

I'd also like to add a snorkel down the road. I am planning on installing the SLEE windshield bottle relocation kit and wondered if their would be enough room to add one.


Appreciate your opinions!

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Can I ask the question I've been asking myself lately? Why? I mean specifically, why do you want/need dual batts? For me it would be to power a fridge and a few additional lights, in which case I would only want the weight and complexity when I was touring, not full time. I've been looking into power packs like the Ark Pak, or Goal Zero Sherpa or even the NL battery pack. Might be something else to consider.

 

[DanMedeiros]

Can I ask the question I've been asking myself lately? Why? I mean specifically, why do you want/need dual batts? For me it would be to power a fridge and a few additional lights, in which case I would only want the weight and complexity when I was touring, not full time. I've been looking into power packs like the Ark Pak, or Goal Zero Sherpa or even the NL battery pack. Might be something else to consider.

I wanted to get a dual battery for a fridge, lights, and as a backup to self jumpstart. I like the idea of the power packs too but don't like how they take up cargo space.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

I wanted to get a dual battery for a fridge, lights, and as a backup to self jumpstart. I like the idea of the power packs too but don't like how they take up cargo space.

Fair enough, I'm just sitting here in the same boat listening to people who say that the dual battery systems aren't always what they are cracked up to be, or at least to consider alternatives. I just don't like the idea of having to built out a new "house" block and adding another 70 lbs to the front of my truck. Still thinking about it, but for the cost, the power pack idea interests me more right now. A power pack can do all the things a dual batt can do (minus having an easy lighting solution built in, but if you have a power power you can just run it off the start battery and jump if needed) but allows for better weight distribution and allows me to take my fridge into a tent, or my tent trailer if needed (absorption fridges suck). Thats just my 2 cents.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Neither! I've been looking at blue sea products, specifically the 7622. I'm curious what these other two do that the BS can't considering they're about twice the price. I'm pretty new to all this and still trying to decide what I want.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Here is some $$$ saving advice that will land you a much better system in the end.

Forget about National Luna especially, and IBS too. Way too expensive, and those systems fail frequently. Go on Expedition portal and look up National Luna, and you'll find many complaints about failed systems draining both batteries. he heart of both of these systems is a cheap continuous duty 80 amp relay that you can get for $25 or less.

Instead, the Blue Sea ACRs absolutely rock. It's a much heavier duty product, engineered for boats and guaranteed "for as long as you own it". It's also easier to install, you can use your own higher quality cables. For a dual system, without push button jump start Use the Blue Sea SI-ACR 7610. For push button jump start and higher capacity (that is generally not needed in an 80) use the 7622. THe 7610 can be had for $75 or so on Amazon, you make up your own positive and negative cable, plus one tiny ground, and you're done. You can add on dual inexpensive voltmeters from amazon if you want to duplicate the monitoring function of the Nat Luna.

Seriously, the ACRs are much better, easier to install and cheaper, with a lifetime warranty. I don't know why anyone would install one of these "kits".

I also think that the Blue Sea 7610 is plenty for 80s, but you do get a few extra features with the 7622. The one key feature is the ability to self jump which is about a one time in ten years thing for me. Remember you can jump from any aux battery with a set of jumper cables that you likely carry anyway. And, since the ground is always connected, all you need to do is jump the + terminal.

Me personally, I think dual batteries are nearly essential. Not just for peace of mind but also for running a fridge, charging cameras/phnes/radios and some camp lighting. When you add solar, you'll want it to charge your #2 battery and since the ACRs sense charge and combine both ways, you can run your solar to your aux battery. Once it's charged, the ACR will combine and also top your main. During normal running, the alternator will charge the main, and once holding 13 volts (moments usually) it will combine and also charge your #2 battery.

 

[DanMedeiros]

Neither! I've been looking at blue sea products, specifically the 7622. I'm curious what these other two do that the BS can't considering they're about twice the price. I'm pretty new to all this and still trying to decide what I want.

Just looked up the blue seas relay. Looks awesome! Does it have some sort of battery monitor? I am pretty clueless about 12 volt systems and was drawn to the IBS kit since it seemed so plug and play. I probably need to find someone to stall this for me

 

[DanMedeiros]

Here is some $$$ saving advice that will land you a much better system in the end.

Forget about National Luna especially, and IBS too. Way too expensive, and those systems fail frequently. Go on Expedition portal and look up National Luna, and you'll find many complaints about failed systems draining both batteries. he heart of both of these systems is a cheap continuous duty 80 amp relay that you can get for $25 or less.

Instead, the Blue Sea ACRs absolutely rock. It's a much heavier duty product, engineered for boats and guaranteed "for as long as you own it". It's also easier to install, you can use your own higher quality cables. For a dual system, without push button jump start Use the Blue Sea SI-ACR 7610. For push button jump start and higher capacity (that is generally not needed in an 80) use the 7622. THe 7610 can be had for $75 or so on Amazon, you make up your own positive and negative cable, plus one tiny ground, and you're done. You can add on dual inexpensive voltmeters from amazon if you want to duplicate the monitoring function of the Nat Luna.

Seriously, the ACRs are much better, easier to install and cheaper, with a lifetime warranty. I don't know why anyone would install one of these "kits".

I also think that the Blue Sea 7610 is plenty for 80s, but you do get a few extra features with the 7622. The one key feature is the ability to self jump which is about a one time in ten years thing for me. Remember you can jump from any aux battery with a set of jumper cables that you likely carry anyway. And, since the ground is always connected, all you need to do is jump the + terminal.

Me personally, I think dual batteries are nearly essential. Not just for peace of mind but also for running a fridge, charging cameras/phnes/radios and some camp lighting. When you add solar, you'll want it to charge your #2 battery and since the ACRs sense charge and combine both ways, you can run your solar to your aux battery. Once it's charged, the ACR will combine and also top your main. During normal running, the alternator will charge the main, and once holding 13 volts (moments usually) it will combine and also charge your #2 battery.

Awesome! Thanks!! I think i'll still have to find somebody to design and install this for me.

 

[Douglas S]

I love my Blue Sea 7622. Absolutely zero complaints.

I use mine in conjunction with a National Luna dual battery monitor, but it's really not necessary.

 

[half k cruiser]

The NL dual battery monitor is quite nice, thats why i decided to use it with my system. However, the relay i'm using is the same Blue Sea 7622 that @Cruiserdrew mentioned above. He's right, you will get a much better system for the same if not less money then what you spend on those others.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Awesome! Thanks!! I think i'll still have to find somebody to design and install this for me.

Very little design needed. Really, this is easy.
1-Mount the ACR somewhere convenient. The back of the #2 battery box is a good spot for a 7610, or on the firewall
2-Connect the grounds of both batteries together. #2 Cable works perfectly
3-Connect + terminal of one battery to the big terminal of the ACR Again, #2 cable
4-Connect the + terminal of the second battery to the other big terminal of the ACR #2 cable
5-Connect the ACR negative terminal with small fused wire to ground of #1 battery
6-Go have a nice microbrew

Note: you will want to fuse your + cables at the battery. I like the MRBF form Blue Sea, or ANL fuses in a quality holder. With 2 gauge wire, 150 amp fuses will be about right.

I have ACRs on 3 trucks, all working perfectly. Can't say enough good things. If you come through Sac, I'd be happy to help you make up cables-I have a mondo crimper for large cables that doesn't get enough use.

 

[DanMedeiros]

Very little design needed. Really, this is easy.
1-Mount the ACR somewhere convenient. The back of the #2 battery box is a good spot for a 7610, or on the firewall
2-Connect the grounds of both batteries together. #2 Cable works perfectly
3-Connect + terminal of one battery to the big terminal of the ACR Again, #2 cable
4-Connect the + terminal of the second battery to the other big terminal of the ACR #2 cable
5-Connect the ACR negative terminal with small fused wire to ground of #1 battery
6-Go have a nice microbrew

Note: you will want to fuse your + cables at the battery. I like the MRBF form Blue Sea, or ANL fuses in a quality holder. With 2 gauge wire, 150 amp fuses will be about right.

I have ACRs on 3 trucks, all working perfectly. Can't say enough good things. If you come through Sac, I'd be happy to help you make up cables-I have a mondo crimper for large cables that doesn't get enough use.

Thanks for the advice Drew! I wanted to add a fuse block on the 2nd battery to run my aux lights, inverter, and 12 volt plug for fridge. Would any blue seas fuse block work?

 

[danthman114]

it seems that everytime I get an idea in my head on what to do next I get on this website and someone is thinking the same thing. I ordered the blue sea 12 circuit w negative buss fuse box and was looking into dual batts. damn this website is making me spend too much money...
now I just put im my amazon cart the Blue Sea SI-ACR 7610.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I agree that you should stay away from any of the canned systems. My vote would be for the hellroaring isolator/combiner. It is solid state tech and is very reliable. It is what I am running.

 

[milemarker60]

My son and I just finished up adding a second batt and aux relay/fuse block from wiredwagon (bussman unit) which handles the power needs of all his light bars, USB ports, fridge Hella plug, etc. Ive used the Blueseas ACRs for years in boats and various apps and haven't found a reason to stray. We went with the 7622 on this install w/ remote switch up front but did not add in a monitor as of yet...may in the future. As others have mentioned, very simple process, choosing your wire runs is the most challenging depending on the level of OCD you suffer from. I had a huge supply of 1/0 welding wire which is overkill but super flexi and durable which we also used for his winch and the "Big 3" re-wire (batt to starter, batt to alt, batt to eng/chassis ground). Our "house" batt is powering the relay/fuse box, winch, monster stereo, two front LED light bars, two front LED spots, two rear LED work lights, undercarriage LED rock lights, various accessory outlets in the cabin.

We planned for an entire weekend and used every bit it as we removed all the old relay harnesses and wiring additions previously added, fabb'd a few relocation brackets for the washer tank and radiator overflow (our choice but not necessary), etc...again, time will be determined by your tidiness concerns more than anything. Do yourself a favor and pull the grill, headlights and side-markers...makes for great access for wire runs.

 

[Luke111]

I will agree that the blue sea stuff is first rate but I pulled mine out and replaced it with The IBS system and had SLEE do the install. 3 plus years and no issue and it's a complete system. Unless something has changed with the blue sea you'll have to buy wire and crimp your own connectors as I did ... Not a big deal but required a couple trips to West Marine had the order a crimper I rated it as a PITA. But to answer your othe question you can run a snorkel with the relocation kit.

 

[danthman114]

do you have to run the same rating battery because I have an optima 750 red top in there right now. I know in my fire alarm systems I cant run different ah batts. im not clear on how the circuit is. are the batteries isolated or are they in parallel or is there any time they work together in unison?

 

[milemarker60]

We are running a deep cycle 29 for the house and conventional 27 start battery. Typical for marine and land separate bank systems. The real question is which bank should you run the alternator too...many thoughts on that one in the boating world.

 

[DanMedeiros]

My son and I just finished up adding a second batt and aux relay/fuse block from wiredwagon (bussman unit) which handles the power needs of all his light bars, USB ports, fridge Hella plug, etc. Ive used the Blueseas ACRs for years in boats and various apps and haven't found a reason to stray. We went with the 7622 on this install w/ remote switch up front but did not add in a monitor as of yet...may in the future. As others have mentioned, very simple process, choosing your wire runs is the most challenging depending on the level of OCD you suffer from. I had a huge supply of 1/0 welding wire which is overkill but super flexi and durable which we also used for his winch and the "Big 3" re-wire (batt to starter, batt to alt, batt to eng/chassis ground). Our "house" batt is powering the relay/fuse box, winch, monster stereo, two front LED light bars, two front LED spots, two rear LED work lights, undercarriage LED rock lights, various accessory outlets in the cabin.

We planned for an entire weekend and used every bit it as we removed all the old relay harnesses and wiring additions previously added, fabb'd a few relocation brackets for the washer tank and radiator overflow (our choice but not necessary), etc...again, time will be determined by your tidiness concerns more than anything. Do yourself a favor and pull the grill, headlights and side-markers...makes for great access for wire runs.

Awesome Photo! Thanks! Did you add fuses to your positive terminals? Also ,where did you get that usb plus that fits into the switch knockout?

 

[dlmcgehee1]

Here's a great post on the subject.
For anyone who wants it.
How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50 - Expedition Portal