Driving Tips for the FJ80 in Snow

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I know this is a different situation than the OP described, where the rear went out from under him, but I wanted to mention this also.

I'm running Duratrac's and I was driving around in the snow we just had yesterday here on the East Coast. I noticed that when the front tires tried to skid forward as I turned into a corner, I just had to give it a little gas and the front tires grabbed again and pulled me through the corner. That's completely non-intuitive, but in an AWD like the LC's, it's very effective. I did this multiple times to test the truck, and I got the same result each time. Worth taking the time to show this to the kids and wife as you give parking lot instruction.

That may work on snow but not so sure about an ice patch. Although I've never driven on the east coast in snow. In tahoe area things tend to melt during the day and freeze at night causing ice patches inbetween and under snowcover. Acceleration could send you off a cliff.
 
I once had super swampers on a jeep cherokee and it scared the hell out of me everytime it snowed -- basically zero control at even the slowest of speeds. Switched to bfg all terrains on the same rig and it was literally night and day.... that being said, I live in Steamboat Springs - average annual snowfall 330 inches plus. Slow down, anticipate ALL corners, and ALL bridges, and all irregular piles of snow left by the plow.... and get some tires that you can have some confidence with. I still use my trusted BFG's, and I use D2 a lot - it keeps me from getting too heavy on the pedal - of course you can't be prepared for every circumstance.... good luck!!

edit - just a thought -- is it possible to test to see if your 4wd/Awd is actually working correctly? Maybe hit up a snowy walmart lot and do some testing...
 
You guys think airing down a bit will help?
This was my fist thought. Air down the tires. Less air in the rear since it's lighter then the front (maybe 5lbs different).
Make sure you have 50% or more tread left for best results.
Next make sure your brakes don't pull to one side more than the other. This will keep you tracking straight while braking.
 
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My 92 is serving as our only 4wd for the first time this winter which means the wife will be behind the wheel when necessary. She drove it over the weekend on snow covered roads to a friends house that required going up a 1 mile untreated lane. She called me when she got there & said she never felt safer driving in the snow & that the Cruiser was "awesome!" I may be switching the BFG M/T's for A/T's though for snow & all around on road driving.
 
I think the comment about taking a quick turn while going down the mountain was spot on, as was the comment about snow tires.
 
I've been doing a lot of reading on this forum about the 80 and snow lately since this is my first year with my 80 and snow is nearing. Since I've had it, I've modified it with OME suspension and a set of 285/75/16 KM2s. I've centralized my efforts on KM2s and snow along with general snow information.

I've noticed a few things.
1. EVERYBODY here advocates snow tires
2. The KM2s SUCK entirely
3. Some people like the 80 in the snow, while probably 3/4s have had the back end come out or make some sort of complaint about the snow driving.

I want to comment on what I've seen and would like someone to correct me if I'm wrong here.

1. Everybody advocates snow tires. I think snow tires are great. Never used them here in Kansas but I've driven a variety of vehicles. All 4wd, all with name brand tires. I only lost control of one vehicle that I wasn't anticipating. This vehicle is my 2007 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7 and 4wd. I was in 4wd and hit black ice going uphill. I was going to fast for the turn. I've run KOs and Nitto ATs currently on the truck and think that unless in 4wd, the initial traction sucks.

I've run KOs, Nitto ATs, GYear SAs, and other "street tires" on these 4wd vehicles and never really had an issue that I couldn't control.

With that said, I'm a very, very hesitant and safe driver in the snow.

2. The KM2s suck. Why do people say this? I understand that at speed or in little to no snow or slush it's going to be a bit lackluster. I took my chances on the purchase of these tires for deep snow and with the 4wd of the 80, figured I'd still be better off than my Tundra with the Nitto ATs.

I am anticipating this winter to do as you all suggest: threshold braking (My brother taught me that when I was 16 before I knew it even had a name to it - just the other day), and hitting up a local parking lot to "know my vehicle." I'd like to think that keeping it slow and steady, I shouldn't have any issues.

So, do you all REALLY dislike the KM2s in the snow that much? I know it's a relative term if you were to compare them to snow tires but certainly they'll be just fine for city winter driving....

3. The 80 has it's moments in the snow...Why is this? I'm coming from a part time 4wd Tundra (still in my driveway though). Is it REALLY going to be that scary?

I've driven a 03 4runner with a V8 and full time 4wd and it was equally as sure-footed as our '98 Expeditions.

Please comment ya'll. I'd like to here some relative stories.

For my record, this is in Kansas City. Snowfall last year was a good bit but mostly we get "dustings to 4" which is nothing. Lots of this driving at night includes black ice but mostly slush following the plow.

-rockstate
 
Oh yeah, and for the record.. absolutely love driving my 80. I probably drive it 5 days+ out of the week. I can't wait to try it out in the snow.
 
This thread only pertains to 80's on road in the snow. Not the deep stuff off road, off road its all about flotation. On road you want a tire with lots of sipes and maximum psi on the road surface.

Everyone I know with KM2's has remarked how awful they are in compact snow/ice on road. Off road there ok but there are better.

After having quality snow tires, AT's, MT's and all seasons do not compare at all. My Duratrac's although severe weather rated still do not compare, they are much better than the BFG AT's I had last.

I have found that the AWD in the 80 is far better then a standard 4wd. It does not have the tendency to push thought corners that 4wd does.
 
Interesting... Sounds like they suck in the compact snow like other mts; however, tire rack has them highly esteemed on their site.

Unfortunately, I don't have any snow wheeling experience as we don't get much snow up here but I can say that going from my Tundra with a super sensitive throttle and light rear end to my 80 should make winter lot easier. Relatively speaking of course.

We should be getting some winter mix this weekend. Hopefully ill be able to chime in later on the subject.

With that said, my buddy has KM1s on his disco and commented on lack of traction with what we had last week. His are half worn and he's a little more spirited driver in wet or snowy weather than I am.
 
I've noticed a few things.
1. EVERYBODY here advocates snow tires
2. The KM2s SUCK entirely
3. Some people like the 80 in the snow, while probably 3/4s have had the back end come out or make some sort of complaint about the snow driving.

Yep, you summarized the thread and hit the nail on the head with the summary.

KM/2 tires are awesome, except in snow. I like them off pavement on sand, dirt, rocks, etc. I like them on pavement, wet or dry, just not icy roads.

I'm semi-shopping for 35" snow tires, but the selection is quite limited. Looks like Yokohama IT are my only reasonable choice. Otherwise studded Duratrac, but they're not really a snow tire, or are they? In the meantime I have fancy chains. They work quite well.

Back end coming around requires countersteering, and not snapping the throttle shut. But that requires practice, and the learning curve is steep, but once you get the hang of it, you'll be okay.

It's easier to learn to do that in a lighter vehicle, that's for sure.
 
Where do y'all live? I guess until I drive the 80 with KM2s in the snow I'm a bit skeptical but that could be because this is a full time AWD tank with almost little power compared to my 381 HP part time 4wd tundra with really sensitive throttle. I don't wanna be difficult but I guess I've never experienced the best that a tire can offer in the snow. I have always placed my trust in a great all around tire in the past.

Either way, I'm really looking forward to this winter.
 
been lurking here for a few years and using the advice from the forum to take care of all sorts of things.
i have a 94 m0del 80 no lockers 225 000miles ..original headgasket ...phh done 5 years ago...
i am a prospector and drive around on old logging and back roads in british columbia when working...live in snow country..5-6 months a year ...presently have the best winter tires ever...toyo wlt1 285/75/16...in winter i pull the abs fuse...a icey road trick i use going down hill is to put it in neutral...then the engine isnt driving the wheels and just touching the brake now and then it seems to keep things under control...these are usually back roads with ice or hard packed snow...i have found there is a difference between snow tires and winter tires....anyway my first post...thanks to all you guys for all the info that have really helped out...
 
I also have found that shifting to neutral on glare ice helps with control, especially steering control. This is more of a parking lot or back road trick, not too sure I'd want to try it at any kind of speed or in traffic!

And if all else fails there is still usually good traction to be found in the snowbanks. On really nasty ice- wet glare ice with no sand- the ONLY traction to be had is in the snowbanks. Put two tires in or up on the banking and you can almost always at least get moving, or stop if that's what you want. Make the snowbanks work for you instead of against you! Again, low speeds are key with this, otherwise the banking can suck you right in. Power out if that happens, or just hang the hell on and winch out after you get stopped!
 
I think the comment about taking a quick turn while going down the mountain was spot on, as was the comment about snow tires.

Get your tries studded, even if they dont have the little holes many shops can still install them, it costs a few bucks but the difference is huge. I had a set of nitto mud grapplers (37's) studded, it made a huge difference, and I think most of your problem has to do with your tires. Chains make a huge difference too, but it sounds like its difficult to read the conditions or you aren't reading the conditions accurately to the vehicles ability for traction so you probably wouldn't have them installed when you really need them anyways. No offence intended.
 
I've driven through a lot of conditions over my 16 years of driving. 2 weeks ago, we had "flash freezing" where it was raining but the frost caused the roads to freeze. As a result, most roads were ice (smooth, skating rink like ice) with puddles of water on top. If it was snowing, the snow would have actually provided some traction, the water just caused hydroplaning on top of ice.

I've never experienced anything like that before, studs would have helped slightly, but I think chains are the only thing would help you stop. I traveled very slowly, 4 low on a highway, riding the brakes down anything that resembled a hill. (I was in 4low simply for the reduced speed)
 
I have the p/t kit 488s and run 33"Yoko it's for severe winter (backed up with a full set of vbar chains ) for everyday driving and love them . I come from the studded side too. My gearing is a little high for 33" but drive a little sainer in the winter. Toyota m/t in a 35" is my daily drive tire,like them also for the most part especially for the higher speeds for a larger foot print tire. For the extreme sticks I change over to the 36" millitarys . And ya I change tires like a woman changes shoes.
 
I have had a mix of 80s and 100s over the years and live in a very snow place. Sometimes driving in snow means it's icy and maybe a few inches on the ground, other times it means blasting through so much snow that the front bumper is acting like a plow.

The 80s and 100s are both exceptional in the snow. Like many others, I have done lots of experimenting to understand the limits of the truck in the snow, and have done everything possible to get stuck.

Here are some thoughts:

1. No matter wha vehicle you have, it will have limitations.

2. The tires are the biggest differentiator. Snow tires will be awesome in the really slick icy conditions, but merely ok in the deep stuff. The tires that will be good in the deep stuff are terrible in the slick stuff. Many M/Ts are downright dangerous in typical snowy conditions on the road. It's really hard to get these trucks stuck in deep snow, but with MTs it is easy to lose control on a slick road.

3. There are different types of snowy conditions, so understand what your tires and vehicle can do in each condition.

4. There are a number of different settings in our trucks. Understand how those work and when to use which. I do NOT think that having the CDL switch engaged on snowy and icy roads is a good thing, unless it is just temporary because you are trying to get up an incline that you think you will have trouble with. With the CDL on, it is much easier to fish tail or spin out. 2nd helps in getting the vehicle started, and driving around in this mode can only help you in snow. It can be good to be in a low gear while going downhill, BUT do NOT shift into a lower gear while actually going down the hill, it will often immediately send the truck into a spin. 4x4 low rarely helps you in snow, unless that's your only way to get the axles locked, which you may need if you are getting stuck.
 
That's not entirely true. I've gone places where other 4x4 got stuck. I even pulled out other 4x4 stuck in snow I easily drove through.

Mud tires are notoriously bad in ice and packed snow and it seems those are the conditions that the OP is having the problems.

The 80 is a tank through snow, but can be awful on ice and packed snow, especially with the wrong tires. I find it takes a lot to get the back end to swing out, but once it does...look out. That's a lot of weight creating a lot of momentum swinging around. It can be tough to get it back sometimes.
 
Any car is awful on ice with the wrong tires. With snow tires or tires close to snow tires that have the snow-flake on them, these are the best stock vehicles I have driven in snow.

And yeah, as others said, going downhill and turning on ice is pretty much the most likely scenario to spinout. (Except cranking the wheel with CDL on and flooring it..haha)
 
My 80 runs 35" duratracs and i have no issues in snow or ice what so ever. Coming from my 03 tacoma which i would toss sand bags in the back the FZJ-80 is so stable its awesome. Now given i dont hot rod around corners when its snowing and i always leave plenty of room between me and the next car but i think this turck hanles amazing when theres thick snow and ice on the road. a weekend or two ago i had to pull suburus and a 4-runner out of the center snow berm from spinning out didnt even have to turn the CDL on just toss it in 4-lo and tow them out. the roads were so slippery i could barely walk to the car to toss my tow strap on without slipping on my a$$. Sounds like your issue was either gassing it around a corner or using to much engine compression to slow down while cornering....both are big no no's when its freezing outside.
 

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