I just paid $150 for mine and autos are more expensive so $200 sounds about right. I just can't find it on their website.
drivetrain leaks - Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Randy88FJ62
- Start date
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I just paid $150 for mine and autos are more expensive so $200 sounds about right. I just can't find it on their website.
I must be a little bored. Here are the hours and number.
Hours:
Monday-Friday: 8am-5:30pm
Saturday: 8am-4:30pm
Call Toll Free 1-877-723-4286
Hours:
Monday-Friday: 8am-5:30pm
Saturday: 8am-4:30pm
Call Toll Free 1-877-723-4286
leaky cruiser!
One more thing I found to leak is the tranny shaft seal (the shaft that comes out of the tranny and goes into the bellhousing/clutch area). I did a clutch recently for a customer along with the rear main,oil pan, and transfer case output seals.Once we were in there we noticed that what was thought to be the rear main leak was THAT seal as well as the oilpan, but we did the rear main anyhow for preventive maintenance! GOOD LUCK!
One more thing I found to leak is the tranny shaft seal (the shaft that comes out of the tranny and goes into the bellhousing/clutch area). I did a clutch recently for a customer along with the rear main,oil pan, and transfer case output seals.Once we were in there we noticed that what was thought to be the rear main leak was THAT seal as well as the oilpan, but we did the rear main anyhow for preventive maintenance! GOOD LUCK!
Hey Rondog,
Just so I understand 'cause I learning all this stuff. But this doesn't apply to autos, right?
Just so I understand 'cause I learning all this stuff. But this doesn't apply to autos, right?
- Thread starter
- #25
Took the first step and ordered the factory service manual today. I guess I'll adjust the valves while the cover is off. One cylinder was making a very small misfiring noise when idling sometimes so i tried replacing the spark plugs. They were good so hopefully it's something to do with the valves and can simply be adjusted. Seems like my list of maintinence jobs is going up. I hope I can wrap all these up in a few weeks so i can start the real fun fabbing sliders and bumpers.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
Randy, you know the body & chassis manual is available in pdf on the www? You'll still need the other manuals, but I'm juss throwin this one out there for ya. (a day late, too
ulp, )Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Downloads
- Thread starter
- #27
I prefer hard copies when working on a vehicle. electronic copies are more for perusal and entertainment.
I ordered one today and it was only around $40 with shipping. I asked her if there were many different books and she didn't know anything. So... What manuals do I need and how many are there to complete the set for the whole vehicle?
I ordered one today and it was only around $40 with shipping. I asked her if there were many different books and she didn't know anything. So... What manuals do I need and how many are there to complete the set for the whole vehicle?
This lists the manuals for the 2F but there is a website at the bottom that shows how to determine what manuals go for which vehicles.
IH8MUD.com Forum - View Single Post - FSM Prices???
IH8MUD.com Forum - View Single Post - FSM Prices???
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Ignore my other posts. They were for an fj60 with the 2F motor. This document is apparently helpful -
http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/1988_FJ62_New_Features.pdf
http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/1988_FJ62_New_Features.pdf
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the link. The pdf mentions that the 3FE should be running on 91 octane. I run my engine on cheap 89 octance. Will this result bacd performance or do all your FJ62's run 87?
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
87 here.
91 recommended huh? I'll take that as a typo or something, as no way would our tractor motors need hi-test.
x2 cruisers are designed to run on rot gut
- Thread starter
- #33
I was able to degrease my front end this weekend. Leaks are easier to see now. I found a leak coming from the front pumpkin where the driveshaft goes in. The last owner didn't use 4wd and now I've been starting it up. I assume the seal in there is hard and brittle and not doing its job. How hard is it to replace? Any diagrams, schematics, pictures, or links would be much appreciated.
-Randy
-Randy
- Thread starter
- #35
The link you sent is quite informative but I didn't see references to the seals. I'm sure I'll use that resourse when installing new gears or a locker. Any info on the front driveshaft to differential seal?
Thanks again.
-Randy
Thanks again.
-Randy
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
Randy, this is assuming you are referring to the outer axle seal between the axletube and knuckle, not the inner axle seal between the diff and axletube.
Search for 'knuckle rebuild' and it'll detail the seal replacement procedure as a smaller part of the overall knuckle job.
Since the rig is new-to-you, I personally would do the full knuckle job, but if you are confident the remaining seals aren't leaking, and that the knuckle grease isn't contaminated/degraded, then that's up to you.
As far as the outer axle seals, go with Marlin's seals, as they are an improved design from OEM.
Driveshaft-to-diff seal would be referred to by pinion seal, and it's avail aftermarket or OEM, I went with OEM Toy when I replaced mine. It was a
job.
Search for 'knuckle rebuild' and it'll detail the seal replacement procedure as a smaller part of the overall knuckle job.
Since the rig is new-to-you, I personally would do the full knuckle job, but if you are confident the remaining seals aren't leaking, and that the knuckle grease isn't contaminated/degraded, then that's up to you.
As far as the outer axle seals, go with Marlin's seals, as they are an improved design from OEM.
Driveshaft-to-diff seal would be referred to by pinion seal, and it's avail aftermarket or OEM, I went with OEM Toy when I replaced mine. It was a
job.
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Oil Pan Gasket
This post has a possible guide on reducing further oil pan leaks.
I only have 18 years exp owning an FJ62, and in that time the most common non-routine maintenance item in 172K has been the oil pan gasket.
Toyota dealer wanted to replace the RMS in 92; but it was the gasket. As stated, shop had a devil of a time removing & must have bent the pan. As I was told I would need a new pan after the 2nd replacement. It is leaking again, and the new pan is in the basement, waiting.
This post has a possible guide on reducing further oil pan leaks.
I only have 18 years exp owning an FJ62, and in that time the most common non-routine maintenance item in 172K has been the oil pan gasket.
Toyota dealer wanted to replace the RMS in 92; but it was the gasket. As stated, shop had a devil of a time removing & must have bent the pan. As I was told I would need a new pan after the 2nd replacement. It is leaking again, and the new pan is in the basement, waiting.
- Thread starter
- #38
Wile E Coyote: The PO did a knuckle rebuild within a year and those seals look great. The pinion seal is the one leaking, didn't know what to call it. I'll get on replacing that when i remove the tcase and trany.
4xoddic: I think I'm in the same boat as you. The rear main seal might be leaking but the oil pan is definitely leaking. My whole drivetrain is leaking as it is a 280,000 mile vehicle. Once I get all the parts it's going to be a long weekend.
As always, thanks for the help and info.
4xoddic: I think I'm in the same boat as you. The rear main seal might be leaking but the oil pan is definitely leaking. My whole drivetrain is leaking as it is a 280,000 mile vehicle. Once I get all the parts it's going to be a long weekend.
As always, thanks for the help and info.
- Thread starter
- #39
I need to replace the contacts in my starter. How do i make sure the starter is the original and not an aftermarket replacement? Any identifying marks? Pics anyone? Thanks.
