drivetrain leaks - Questions (3 Viewers)

[Randy88FJ62]

Just bought a 1988 FJ62 with 278,000 miles on it.
It has a rear main seal leak, minor radiator leak, transmission and transfercase have fluid coming out as well. I plan on replacing all the gaskets and seals related to these problems. While I'm getting at the rear main seal I'll replace the other gaskets up there as well. What else do i need to replace or be careful of? Any bearings or forseeable issues with the transmission and transfercase? I will be buying the factory manual before repair. Please send me to the best links or share your wisdom. I have been searching all of these subjects and I want the best information I can get from the people who know. I will try to do the best writeups I can as well to help out future do it yourselfers.
-Randy

 

[cruiser88]

Just bought a 1988 FJ62 with 278,000 miles on it.
It has a rear main seal leak, minor radiator leak, transmission and transfercase have fluid coming out as well. I plan on replacing all the gaskets and seals related to these problems. While I'm getting at the rear main seal I'll replace the other gaskets up there as well. What else do i need to replace or be careful of? Any bearings or forseeable issues with the transmission and transfercase? I will be buying the factory manual before repair. Please send me to the best links or share your wisdom. I have been searching all of these subjects and I want the best information I can get from the people who know. I will try to do the best writeups I can as well to help out future do it yourselfers.
-Randy

Before you loosen the first nut put the rig in neutral (and the transfer case) get under it and wiggle every pinion flange under the rig if you feel any slack at the transfer or at the transmission WITH THE AMOUNT OF LEAKS you have it may be simpler just to pull the tranny/transfer out and do it all at once.

The really bad spot on 62's is where the tranny/transfer meet...that seal is known to fail and many use a sleeve over the shaft (after market).

Being you have to move the motor ANYWAY i would just pull the whole kit and kaboodle2 job....easy

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I will be pulling the trany, tcase, and removeing the bell housing to replace the gaskets. I assume I can leave the engine in place to repair the rear main seal?

Here's what i've priced out so far:
Part................................................Price
Rear main Seal................................$19.99
Transfer Case seals and gaskets.......$65.48
Transmission Gaskets (Rebuild Kit)....$229.84
Header Gasket.................................$14.13 (exhasut leak)
Radiator - Metal...............................$315.00
TOTAL............................................$644.44
These prices are from Specter off road in chatsworth CA.

 

[cruiser88]

I will be pulling the trany, tcase, and removeing the bell housing to replace the gaskets. I assume I can leave the engine in place to repair the rear main seal?

Here's what i've priced out so far:
Part................................................Price
Rear main Seal................................$19.99
Transfer Case seals and gaskets.......$65.48
Transmission Gaskets (Rebuild Kit)....$229.84
Header Gasket.................................$14.13 (exhasut leak)
Radiator - Metal...............................$315.00
TOTAL............................................$644.44
These prices are from Specter off road in chatsworth CA.

Call cdan it might be cheaper.....i know it will be cheaper....i will get you a link

 

[cruiser88]

Call dan.....when you call them tell them you are a ih8mud member


American Toyota

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Crazy88, I see you all over this board. Do you work or is this your permanent home?
Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call.

 

[cruiser88]

Crazy88, I see you all over this board. Do you work or is this your permanent home?
Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call.

I am a full time student and when i am at work i can surf mud

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Lucky bastard. my work watches internet like a hawk. I can't surf. Thanks for referencing Cruiser Dan. I called him and he quoted $100 less. I've only been around this site for a month and I'm already addicted.

 

[Ducks]

You might want to completely rebuild the t-case since you are already doing all this work anyways. I think parts are about $135 - $150.

 

[Ducks]

You can also get an aftermarket radiator for around $150. Performance Radiator is pretty popular. You might also consider putting in a new water pump and using the old one as a spare. Just so you know the pump is new. I think it is $80.

 

[tonkota]

Get a McNamara while you are in there.

TF- Transfer

I'm doing mine right now. Not hard, but I wouldn't want to do it twice. Plus there is a nice list of gaskets and seals there.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

A note of warning/FYI about the rear main leak...
That being it may not be the rear main seal. ON our 62's, the oil pan gasket leaks in the same area as the RMS, and often mimicks a RMS leak. My own classic signs of RMS leaking was cleared up 100% with a new oil pan gasket.

 

[cruiserpants]

“It has a rear main seal leak.”

Before you pull oil pan apart, you may want to check the back of the valve cover gasket and see if it is leaking (one can only hope). I also thought my 62 had a rear main leak, until I discovered it was the VC gasket. Regardless, it would be a great time to adjust the valve clearance.

Congrats on the 1988 FJ62 - post some pics of your new obsession ...I'm in need of a cruiser fix.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Overhaul planning

Here's a few pictures of my new FJ62. 278,000 miles on it. The previous owner put in a new water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, man-a-fre exhaust, new center console, seat covers, and alternator.

My vehicle looks like it has so many leaks I might just replace as many gaskets as I can on the drivetrain.

Tonkota: Thanks for the input. I might rebuild the whole tcase after looking at your pics. Not too bad. Thanks for the great link.

Ducks: My water pump was replaced by last owner within a year so I’ll leave it be. Thanks for the radiator info, I’ll shop around some more. What’s the preference on metal versus plastic radiators?

Wile E Cyote and Cruiserpants: There is some oil around the valve cover so I’ll replace that too. What’s the advantage of adjusting the valves while it’s open?

Thanks for all the constructive comments guys. Your help is greatly appreciated and I’ll make sure to record my work and add to the ih8mud knowledge base. I’ll post some more pics as I rev up for the overhaul. I’ll be ordering parts and doing all these fixes within 2-3 weeks. I helped replace my friend’s corvette engine so I have slave labor to help me.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I have had no luck finding new headers for my 3FE. Does anyone make em and are they worth swapping out? Anyone get better performance out of new headers? I was thinking I might as well upgrade since I have to take them off to repair the gasket exhaust leak.

 

[cruiser88]

I have had no luck finding new headers for my 3FE. Does anyone make em and are they worth swapping out? Anyone get better performance out of new headers? I was thinking I might as well upgrade since I have to take them off to repair the gasket exhaust leak.

The stock manifolds on the 3fe are quite efficient only good headers will do if any is sound.. ....i would stick with oem

 

[Ducks]

Your cruiser looks great. Especially when you consider the mileage.

You should get a metal radiator. There are a couple of different places you can get them. Obviously there are some threads here on 'MUD that will get you opinions on different options / experiences. I went with Performance Radiator. I just recently got it so I have no experience with it.

Excellent to have some slave labor.

Performance Radiator®

Radiators, automotive radiators, condenser, oem radiators, truck radiators

They list a radiator specific to the vehicle. Get at least a 3-core, which both of these are.

Here's a few pictures of my new FJ62. 278,000 miles on it. The previous owner put in a new water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, man-a-fre exhaust, new center console, seat covers, and alternator.

My vehicle looks like it has so many leaks I might just replace as many gaskets as I can on the drivetrain.

Tonkota: Thanks for the input. I might rebuild the whole tcase after looking at your pics. Not too bad. Thanks for the great link.

Ducks: My water pump was replaced by last owner within a year so I’ll leave it be. Thanks for the radiator info, I’ll shop around some more. What’s the preference on metal versus plastic radiators?

Wile E Cyote and Cruiserpants: There is some oil around the valve cover so I’ll replace that too. What’s the advantage of adjusting the valves while it’s open?

Thanks for all the constructive comments guys. Your help is greatly appreciated and I’ll make sure to record my work and add to the ih8mud knowledge base. I’ll post some more pics as I rev up for the overhaul. I’ll be ordering parts and doing all these fixes within 2-3 weeks. I helped replace my friend’s corvette engine so I have slave labor to help me.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Since the truck is new to you, I'd def. adjust the valves while the VC is off. The advantage is, the valve timing would be right, silly

I'll 2nd the notion of avoiding the header. No personal experience, just parroting the overwhelming opinion from Mud over the years.

 

[Ducks]

Well, I just looked at Radiator Barn and Performance Radiator. Mine was in the $100 - $150 range (1984 FJ60). It looks like yours is considerably more. Radiator Barn - $240 with free shipping and Performance Radiator looked more expensive like $370 but their website was confusing. Looked like a nice brass / copper radiator. So I would recommend OEM. Sorry for the false hope.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

The 62 rad I bought from Perf. Rad over two years ago was around $200 shipped.