Has anyone upgraded the thickness of their driveshafts? Uglibus says his was made of thicker steel making it less prone to damage. I had nicked my driveshaft about 2 months ago and I banged it pretty good yesterday. Now I have a vibration. Also, are 91/92 driveshafts the same as the later models? There are a few in boneyards here. My other option is to put the good driveshaft (new or junkyard) on most of the time and put my prebent one on for the trips to the rocks.
driveshaft tubing thickness (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ginericLC
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91's aren't the same as 97's, that's for sure.
I've gotten mine retubed several times and am dropping another one off this afternoon.
I've gotten mine retubed several times and am dropping another one off this afternoon.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
After candy-striping mine on the Rubicon last year, I got my existing driveshaft retubed. IIRC, the stock thickness is .060, mine's now a .095. Robbie Altonson (at Slee Offroad) suggested I go with a .120 thickness, but it was too late for me to change the order (they'd already retubed and were in the process of balancing. I'm happy with mine -- I have a small stripe on it now from this year's Rubicon trip, but no vibration as a result. Having the driveshaft retubed and balanced was less than $90 (I'm in the Sacramento, CA area).
I'm thinking about having my spare driveshaft retubed by the same guys to .120.
I'm thinking about having my spare driveshaft retubed by the same guys to .120.
- Thread starter
- #4
Dang! At those prices I should almost ship mine there to get it done. I've been quoted between $250 and $450 at various shops. The $450 guy said I would need to install new Toyota U joints for them to warranty it free from vibrations. So that adds another $80 or so to it. I found a used DS for $150 at the local salvage yard.
More specifically on the years would a 94 work with a 91 and vice versa. If I'm going to get a spare it would be great if it would work for both.
More specifically on the years would a 94 work with a 91 and vice versa. If I'm going to get a spare it would be great if it would work for both.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
$450 pretty much gets you a new driveshaft. I was quoted that for a replacement to my candystriped one from Lexus.
I bought a used one at the boneyard for $60 to have as a spare -- actually, I bought it so I could drive myself to the driveline shop to get the original shaft fixed (I didn't have the CDL switch installed at the time).
They guy said my U-joints looked fine.
I bought a used one at the boneyard for $60 to have as a spare -- actually, I bought it so I could drive myself to the driveline shop to get the original shaft fixed (I didn't have the CDL switch installed at the time).
They guy said my U-joints looked fine.
Where are you located? $450 is the cost of 2 new DS around here. Depending on what you're telling them however may be why they are giving you that price. You shouldn't have to pay more than $100 to get it retubed, and balanced. That's what I paid on mine and it's a .156 wall or something like that. Anyway....keep looking around.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
Me? The $450 was what Lexus wanted, not necessarily the going rate. I'm in the Sacramento, CA area. Don't know what an aftermarket DS would cost around here -- haven't priced one out. I paid $88 and change to get my thrashed one retubed.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Pretty much run 0.120" wall on all the shafts we use for off-road.
The 91-92 rear drive shafts are longer. The later ABS equipped vehicles have a shorter shaft because the transfer is longer.
IF you could find a 93-94 with a drum brake rear end, the shaft would be the same as a 91-92.
D-
IF you could find a 93-94 with a drum brake rear end, the shaft would be the same as a 91-92.
D-
IMO, .120 wall is minimum...thick enuf to hold up, but not so thick to cause other problems. Much thicker and the weight of the shaft can cause other breakage.
.095 don't survive for me...my rear shaft is .330 wall....VERY heavy and even balanced, it vibrates a bit at road speed. However, being that thick, it makes for a nice slider
One thing that CAN add expense to driveshaft work on a Toy is the metric tubing...and converting a yoke to use SAE tubing requires machineing work, and added expense. However, once machined, future tube work is $100 or so.
.095 don't survive for me...my rear shaft is .330 wall....VERY heavy and even balanced, it vibrates a bit at road speed. However, being that thick, it makes for a nice slider
One thing that CAN add expense to driveshaft work on a Toy is the metric tubing...and converting a yoke to use SAE tubing requires machineing work, and added expense. However, once machined, future tube work is $100 or so.
NorCalDoug said:
Nah...I was asking Gineric where he was from...seems that we could find him a better shop than he's found.
- Thread starter
- #12
Idaho is where I currently reside, the problem is we have very few driveshaft shops. I bet there are less than 10 in the whole state (maybe I'm underestimating but Boise has 4). A lot of the shops we do have won't do a Toyota driveshaft. All I've asked for was a retube and a balance. Maybe I should just mailorder a whole new shaft? I think I'm at 228,000 miles and as far as I know the U joints have never been replaced. My dad owned it previously and I know he didn't change them, so that accounts for the last 150k. I know there is some play in the splines. You wouldn't think a Toyota would be an exotic. But all the places I've talked to have said that Toyotas are a real PITA. And they've all asked if I had Toyota U joints. I actually would consider sending it out if I could get a better deal. We don't need to drive the 91 to work everyday, we just do because I like it. Holy cow did I just about die when I drove the 94 this morning. I haven't driven it in 2 weeks. Night and day performance from the old 3FE.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I've used the same shop as Norcal Doug. The .120 tube holds up great and is well worth the small added expense. Here is a pic of my driveline after tangling with the big "V" rock on Thompson Hill at Dusy Ershim. There is no way my original driveshaft would have survived that. Not only did the shaft survive, but it didn't even vibrate on the way home.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
One other thing: the drive shaft shop guy told me that they only rarely have to replace Toyota U-joints. I had asked him at the time of retube if I should replace the joints just beacuse it was out, in the shop, and had 180k miles. That was a couple of years ago and the're still going strong. They do get lubed after every off-road trip, so that probably helps.
semlin
curmudgeon
Eric, that price does not sound right to me. I would consider getting a trail spare used and mail order out to get yours retubed. Even better, if the used one turns out good keep your existing bent one for a trail spare.
the local drive shaft guy said the same thing about toyota u joints to me. Told me they never ever go unless you fail to lube them.
the local drive shaft guy said the same thing about toyota u joints to me. Told me they never ever go unless you fail to lube them.
Cut my front one down to 6 inches each side and slipped a piece of scheldule 40 in. I think it was 2 1/2 OD. It fit real snug. Welded it a V jig then drilled some holes through old DS, but not the pipe, in it and welded them up. I have eched candy stripes.
HTH,
HTH,
Here's your answer.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
Call Tom and talk to one of his guys there, they're super friendly and always willing to help over the phone. They do shipping and are really good to work with. They're in Ogden Utah if you're ever down here and want to just bring it in.
Good Luck.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
Call Tom and talk to one of his guys there, they're super friendly and always willing to help over the phone. They do shipping and are really good to work with. They're in Ogden Utah if you're ever down here and want to just bring it in.
Good Luck.
Jess at High Angle drive line will retube and ballance a Toyota shaft with .095 wall tubing for $140. He also has super heavy duty .188 tubing for $60 additional.
- Thread starter
- #19
It appears that I will be sending my driveshaft out of state. Where I don't know yet? Even with the obscene shipping charges I can get it done cheaper out of state. I have one last thing I'm going to try. A friend of mine runs a repair shop and the driveline shops do jobs for him at wholesale prices. I'm going to see if he would send it to one of them for me. Not sure if they will be any cheaper than sending it out, I know he sent his Scout driveline out to Tom Woods. Thanks for all the advice. It really does help. At least I know the locals are trying to hose me.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Eric-If you want, you can send it to me, I'll take it to Sac Driveline and ship it back if there is any hassle about shipping to them directly. I've got a spare FJ60 shaft that should go in so I could combine trips as long as you are not on too tight a schedule.
