Driveshaft play (1 Viewer)

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COS80

COS80

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I perused several threads on clunks and thinks but couldn't find a clear answer... I have a clunk when shifting R to D that came on suddenly. Everything looks to be in order. I regreased the driveshafts today but I haven't driven it yet (still on stands to make the video). Is this an excessive amount of play?



The noise is going into D.
 
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From the sound of that bang and also the movement of the driveshaft, my first guess is that the bang is coming from upstream of the driveshaft. Or *possibly* the other driveshaft. Never heard a diff or a shaft make that type of noise.

Don't expect the grease to change anything. Greasing a component is never the solution after it is already making significant noise.

Mark...
 
No, you're seeing a normal amount of backlash between pinion and ring gear and spiders to carrier and carrier to axel splines.
 
Other places that drive line slop comes in is the birfields and drive plates on the front hubs
 
I haven't been able to investigate any further - I need to get a helper to work the shifter while I'm underneath. Moving it by hand, the noise sounded like it was actually in the transfer case, but I'm sure it's different under its own power. I'd appreciate any tips on what to look for.

I have recently done front brake rotors. I retorqued the hub and flange nuts after driving, but did not check the spindle nuts; I set preload by the book, with a fish scale, but it was my first time. The wheels don't seem to have any play, that I can tell just from yanking around on them.

I also recently did steering knuckle studs. I marked those with thread marker, so I know they haven't moved. The tie rod ends were retorqued and cotter pinned.
 
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Chock the wheels, put it in neutral, then you can feel the slop in the u-joints. If they are shot, you will feel it. It isn't horrible work to replace the u-joints, but it is work I'd prefer to do in the shed instead of on the roadside. Having a vise, some special tools (Tiger tool or copy) and a hammer makes it a lot easier.
 
I have a clunk when shifting R to D that came on suddenly.

I slowed down the playback and there appears to be too much (3/4-1") rotation of the pinion flange (were the wheels on the ground or up in the air, parking brake set, did the wheels move when placed in gear??).

The slip yolk or U-joint/spider don't appear to be sloppy enough to cause all that movement. As already mentioned need to remove the driveshaft and then check the slip yolk, U-joint, and the pinion flange for excessive movement. IMHO could be a combination of worn pinion and carrier bearings, gears, and splines (pinion flange, pinion shaft, axle shaft) and U-joint but the sudden change is concerning.

@COS80 : did you do anything (hard run, slam in gear?) just before the noise started?

Checked the gear oil for chunks, level good??
 
VSTL said:
Inspect the condition of your front drive flanges as well. I removed a considerable amount of play in my front axle by replacing those.
Click to expand...
To be sure: you mean this flange?

flange.jpg
 
Kernal said:
I slowed down the playback and there appears to be too much (3/4-1") rotation of the pinion flange (were the wheels on the ground or up in the air, parking brake set, did the wheels move when placed in gear??).
Click to expand...
It's on stands, but I had the brake pedal depressed with my hand. I have a friend coming tomorrow to operate the brake/shifter while I watch directly underneath.
Kernal said:
@COS80 : did you do anything (hard run, slam in gear?) just before the noise started?
Click to expand...
I was offroading on pretty difficult trails. I believe it started during the trip. For sure by the end of the day.
Kernal said:
Checked the gear oil for chunks, level good??
Click to expand...
Not sure I know how to check for chunks short of changing the oil, which I've actually done twice in the year I own it. It was nasty the first time, and the second time was basically a rinse for whatever got left behind after the first one. No chunks in either.
 
COS80 said:
It's on stands, but I had the brake pedal depressed with my hand. I have a friend coming tomorrow to operate the brake/shifter while I watch directly underneath.

I was offroading on pretty difficult trails. I believe it started during the trip. For sure by the end of the day.

Not sure I know how to check for chunks short of changing the oil, which I've actually done twice in the year I own it. It was nasty the first time, and the second time was basically a rinse for whatever got left behind after the first one. No chunks in either.
Click to expand...
We're you doing any hard reverse with CDL locked or in low range and gouging on it?

The front diffs do NOT like pushing hard in reverse. One guy here blew up his ring and pinion pulling out a shrubbery in his front yard by pulling in reverse.
 
Not sure I know how to check for chunks short of changing the oil

Yes. Might be worthwhile to drain the gear oil into a clean collection pan, check the drain plug magnet for particles (get a photo before you clean it off then post it up). Consider using a stronger rare earth (Neodymium) magnet to run through the used gear oil in the pan.
 
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I got underneath and was able to hear that the clunk was coming from the transfer case, or the rear u-joint. I pulled the driveshaft tonight, but I've never diagnosed a u-joint before... everything seems in order (there's no play that I can feel), except the rear joint is considerably looser than the front.



When I twist the t-case flange, there's noise, but nothing seems out of the ordinary.



When I twist the diff flange, there's a distinctive clanking in the dtiver knuckle. I presume this is a bad flange - I'll confirm shortly.

clunk - axle - https://youtu.be/lsmgca-D5BM?feature=shared

Any of you experts see or hear anything different? The thing that has me confused is how the noise was so clearly coming from the t-case under power, but now it's so clearly coming from the FL knuckle.
 
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Post up some photos of the splines (drive flange and stub shaft) once you have things apart.


FWIW and future reference, you can brush Loctite LB 8012 Lubricant (65% Molybdenum Disulfide "Moly" paste) on splines (Drive Flange, CV joint stub shaft, slip yolk splines, axle shaft splines) along with wheel bearing grease to help protect them from wear. Another option is to use a NLGI #3 grease with Moly on splines. Either will help cushion the splines and prevent metal-to-metal contact.
 
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