Driver door sag, anyone try these hinges?

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RevISK

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I don’t think it’s a “classic” problem. In fact I’ve never heard of it. I regularly stood on the open windowed door while messing around on my roof rack - for 20 years. Doors never sagged at all.

But I hear you . It would be nice to fix that problem on your vehicle.
 
I don’t think it’s a “classic” problem. In fact I’ve never heard of it. I regularly stood on the open windowed door while messing around on my roof rack - for 20 years. Doors never sagged at all.

But I hear you . It would be nice to fix that problem on your vehicle.
Sure seems to pop up with some regularity in my searches. In a way, it makes sense as the driver door gets far more use.

Mine is fairly significant with a decent amount of play in the pin (was hoping it was just loose bolts).

My main concern is stressing the handle due to lifting and/or the internals from the amount of force needed to close it from the inside.
 
My DS door does the same thing, I grabbed some used hinges that dont seem to have any play, but it is pretty common. For as cheap as those are, and since it's Amazon, I'd say try them out and if you dont like it, return them.
 
I bought a set of those hinges as a backup, since OE are NLA. Quality seems good- good enough that I thought they may be OEM Aisin, now made in Thailand, but I'm not sure, and probably not.
 
My DS door does the same thing, I grabbed some used hinges that dont seem to have any play, but it is pretty common. For as cheap as those are, and since it's Amazon, I'd say try them out and if you dont like it, return them.

I bought a set of those hinges as a backup, since OE are NLA. Quality seems good- good enough that I thought they may be OEM Aisin, now made in Thailand, but I'm not sure, and probably not.
Yeah, my thoughts exactly.

I just received a set of door handle scoops from Amazon and they’re indistinguishable from the original ones.

Thanks y’all,
I’ll give it a shot.

Ian
 
My front driver side door has the same problem.
I’m about to order up.

I want everything in place to address the hinges, failing seam seal, cowl drain and wire harness grommets.

Saw a thread where the dude took the fender off and replaced the hinges with the door closed to keep it lined up. While the fender is off, might as well do the other stuff.
 
I don’t think it’s a “classic” problem. In fact I’ve never heard of it. I regularly stood on the open windowed door while messing around on my roof rack - for 20 years. Doors never sagged at all.

But I hear you . It would be nice to fix that problem on your vehicle.

I see it pretty frequently. It's usually only the driver's doors though.
 
I see it pretty frequently. It's usually only the driver's doors though.
Yeah, precisely why I named the thread what I named it. All my other doors are like bank vaults.
 
Find someone parting out a RHD 60 or 61! The passenger hinges are usually perfect
 
As noted years ago here, the bottom passenger side front door hinge fits the upper driver's side front hinge on an FJ60/2. Installing this tight lower hinge and adjusting the door totally cured the driver door sag on my truck.
 
As noted years ago here, the bottom passenger side front door hinge fits the upper driver's side front hinge on an FJ60/2. Installing this tight lower hinge and adjusting the door totally cured the driver door sag on my truck.
I saw that mentioned but couldn’t re-find it. Thanks for dropping that here.
 
l've just replaced both my hinge pins & the drivers door still sags ?...hinge/pins is free of play now l'm curious if the hinge itself can be adjusted as the passenger side is fine. its far more noticeable today after l stripped off both door weather seals ( while l was waiting for a courier to appear it took 2hrs to do but its cleaned & ready for the new seals...once the rain stops..)...as it looks like the door frame is warped, so l might have to give some the top of the frame a twist inwards...
 
l've just replaced both my hinge pins & the drivers door still sags ?...hinge/pins is free of play now l'm curious if the hinge itself can be adjusted as the passenger side is fine. its far more noticeable today after l stripped off both door weather seals ( while l was waiting for a courier to appear it took 2hrs to do but its cleaned & ready for the new seals...once the rain stops..)...as it looks like the door frame is warped, so l might have to give some the top of the frame a twist inwards...
I haven’t dug into this yet but I imagine there is some adjustment/allowable play in both sides of the hinges. I take it you took the door off to work on the hinges?

I plan on taking the fender off and replacing the hinges one at a time while leaving the door closed to maintain proper alignment.

What did you replace the pins with?
 
I haven’t dug into this yet but I imagine there is some adjustment/allowable play in both sides of the hinges. I take it you took the door off to work on the hinges?

I plan on taking the fender off and replacing the hinges one at a time while leaving the door closed to maintain proper alignment.

What did you replace the pins with?
l used these from AG parts...in the US. ($26.00)... if you're in the US it'll be free postage..l'm in the UK & had them sent over...which cost almost twice much as the pins...
1714748291213.png
 
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l used these from AG parts...in the US.
View attachment 3622721
What l ended up doing was both doors off & loosening/slightly tilting the front screen frame..so the top pin could be knocked past the outer screen frame, from inside the cab, door wise its the upper right corner that juts out.. the bottom is also misaligned.. (that was like that before l started).. l guess given the simple construction & intended use of the LC flush surfaces & straight lines aren't its most important features...which l'm okay with. A previous owner had butchered the drivers door seal to get the door to shut...end result.. gaps & water getting into the cab...hence my notion to change them....
 
What l ended up doing was both doors off & loosening/slightly tilting the front screen frame..so the top pin could be knocked past the outer screen frame, from inside the cab, door wise its the upper right corner that juts out.. the bottom is also misaligned.. (that was like that before l started).. l guess given the simple construction & intended use of the LC flush surfaces & straight lines aren't its most important features...which l'm okay with. A previous owner had butchered the drivers door seal to get the door to shut...end result.. gaps & water getting into the cab...hence my notion to change them....
l watched a Aussie guy do his Ute hinges on YT the hard way (doors & hinges off) there wasn't an adjustment on the inner hinge plate refitting the hinges so any adjustment must be on the 3 outer bolts per hinge & the striker cos that's how he lined his doors up.

Update there is an adjustment on the 3 outer bolts-plate.. less than 1/4' either way & at the striker...
 
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l watched a Aussie guy do his Ute hinges on YT the hard way (doors & hinges off) there wasn't an adjustment on the inner hinge plate refitting the hinges so any adjustment must be on the 3 outer bolts per hinge & the striker cos that's how he lined his doors up.
Curious how you handled the wire harness.
I’ve got new boots/gaskets whatever and I’m trying to figure out the best way to pull the harness to install the boots and retape.

Door side or vehicle side.

Open to anyone else’s suggestions here too.
 
Coincidently.... l've recently taken delivery of the bulkhead wiring harness grommets...l was initially wondering how l'd get the harness thro the grommet...after some exploring (trying to fix a wiper motor harness water leak) l began checking relays & noting part numbers, l noticed many of the wiring connections might go thro the grommet 1 at a time with persuasion on the door side.. l haven't tried it yet but l'll give it a go... starting on the passenger side (UK left)... if anyone's any tips (we newbies) would appreciate it....
 

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