Drive Shaft Vibration - After lift (6 Viewers)

[Nad Aitch]

The answer to every 80 caster/lift/vibe question-

* full-time 4WD
* Ideal caster and handling
* > 2" of lift

You may pick any two of those items.

 

[baldilocks]

You don’t want insufficient castor angle bc it makes the rig handle kinda twitchy and at your lift with dual rate coils you don’t want that. Theoretically if you want or need to be that tall, I do, then you probably do some tough trails requiring the ground clearance. The only sure way to have your cake and eat it too is to go part time. I gave up and did that years ago. This can be a plus when you go breaking front end parts on the trail anyway. To me, maintaining castor is more important than retaining AWD.

 

[Azca]

You don’t want insufficient castor angle bc it makes the rig handle kinda twitchy and at your lift with dual rate coils you don’t want that. Theoretically if you want or need to be that tall, I do, then you probably do some tough trails requiring the ground clearance. The only sure way to have your cake and eat it too is to go part time. I gave up and did that years ago. This can be a plus when you go breaking front end parts on the trail anyway. To me, maintaining castor is more important than retaining AWD.

Thank you for the suggestion and now I have to strongly consider it. I dealt with poor castor when I had the OME caster correction bushings in, what a joke. When I went to the Delta arms, it was a game changer. First time running up the hill and back from PHX to Flag with the new arms was so much more relaxing. Did not have to concentrate nearly as much on what the rig was doing and didn't need the death grip on the steering wheel.

Caster after the lift is 2.7° Driver, and 2.6° Passenger.

 

[baldilocks]

Thank you for the suggestion and now I have to strongly consider it. I dealt with poor castor when I had the OME caster correction bushings in, what a joke. When I went to the Delta arms, it was a game changer. First time running up the hill and back from PHX to Flag with the new arms was so much more relaxing. Did not have to concentrate nearly as much on what the rig was doing and didn't need the death grip on the steering wheel.

Caster after the lift is 2.7° Driver, and 2.6° Passenger.

I’m in the process of building a 96 right now but my previous 93 was at 24.5” hub to fender in the front. I chose to run the Delta 6” arms that netted 5 plus degrees of positive castor as measures across the top of the upper trunnion studs. Dave of Delta was, at that time, running 6” arms with 3” of lift on his personal 80. Fat castor helps simmer down a top heavy rig that has over steer built into the suspension geometry from the factory.



I like every aspect of my rig being part time but I’m old school. In theory there should end up more power on the ground. Probably not a lot but I could tell it was there during the first drive in RWD drive only mode.

You can sell that DC shaft and put those funds toward the part time hardware. Have you driven it with front shaft removed? You might be experiencing vibration from the rear shaft at that lift height.

 

[Nad Aitch]

Yeah having done it I'd recommend PT to anybody along with low range while you're in there. I get the full time advantage for a snow commuter but I want to keep salt of my rig anyhow I would disposable marketplace cars for but it's a non issue in my climate.

 

[Azca]

Thank you for the suggestion and now I have to strongly consider it. I dealt with poor castor when I had the OME caster correction bushings in, what a joke. When I went to the Delta arms, it was a game changer. First time running up the hill and back from PHX to Flag with the new arms was so much more relaxing. Did not have to concentrate nearly as much on what the rig was doing and didn't need the death grip on the steering wheel.

I’m in the process of building a 96 right now but my previous 93 was at 24.5” hub to fender in the front. I chose to run the Delta 6” arms that netted 5 plus degrees of positive castor as measures across the top of the upper trunnion studs. Dave of Delta was, at that time, running 6” arms with 3” of lift on his personal 80. Fat castor helps simmer down a top heavy rig that has over steer built into the suspension geometry from the factory.



I like every aspect of my rig being part time but I’m old school. In theory there should end up more power on the ground. Probably not a lot but I could tell it was there during the first drive in RWD drive only mode.

You can sell that DC shaft and put those funds toward the part time hardware. Have you driven it with front shaft removed? You might be experiencing vibration from the rear shaft at that lift height.

I’m in the process of building a 96 right now but my previous 93 was at 24.5” hub to fender in the front. I chose to run the Delta 6” arms that netted 5 plus degrees of positive castor as measures across the top of the upper trunnion studs. Dave of Delta was, at that time, running 6” arms with 3” of lift on his personal 80. Fat castor helps simmer down a top heavy rig that has over steer built into the suspension geometry from the factory.



I like every aspect of my rig being part time but I’m old school. In theory there should end up more power on the ground. Probably not a lot but I could tell it was there during the first drive in RWD drive only mode.

You can sell that DC shaft and put those funds toward the part time hardware. Have you driven it with front shaft removed? You might be experiencing vibration from the rear shaft at that lift height.

No, did not want to damage the VC and I don't have a CDL on it. I probably drove it 3 or 4 miles and parked it again.

So, once you hit the trail, do you only engage the front axle at the obstacles or for the trail as a whole? What do you think is tolerable as far as miles traveled in the dirt? Obviously I would not engage on typical forest service roads but, once it gets to the point 4wd is needed, I also don't want to keep jumping in and out of the rig to lock the hubs.

 

[Azca]

Yeah having done it I'd recommend PT to anybody along with low range while you're in there. I get the full time advantage for a snow commuter but I want to keep salt of my rig anyhow I would disposable marketplace cars for but it's a non issue in my climate.

Already have the low range and under drive on it, love the low range gears!

 

[baldilocks]

No, did not want to damage the VC and I don't have a CDL on it. I probably drove it 3 or 4 miles and parked it again.

So, once you hit the trail, do you only engage the front axle at the obstacles or for the trail as a whole? What do you think is tolerable as far as miles traveled in the dirt? Obviously I would not engage on typical forest service roads but, once it gets to the point 4wd is needed, I also don't want to keep jumping in and out of the rig to lock the hubs.

Ditch the VC while the t-case is open, it will serve no purpose. When I lock the hubs is dependent on the type of trail. You will need a CDL switch. I have forgotten to push that button a couple times and wondered why I was stuck in such a silly spot.