NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #41
The following pics show the FSM pages with installation instructions for the drive belts.
Drive Belt Replacement Saga (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NorCalDoug
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #42
Last 2 shots. AC belt removal and installation.
I need to do this/get this done. My belts are squealing like crazy. Just no, I repeat, no confidence in doing this kind of stuff w/o someone watching/help/instructing the first time around. Boston has offered. How much does a stealer normally get for belt replacement?
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #44
I happen to recall thinking to myself as my arms were getting scraped up (because I didn't pull the battery tray), "it's only $150 at the dealership...it's only $150 at the dealership...it's only $150 at the dealership..."Brentbba said:
The upside of doing it yourself, is that you'll have not only the satisfaction of having done it, but if your belt ever bites the dust while you're driving somewhere, you COULD fix it yourself...if you had to.
Trust me Brent -- you and I probably have the same mechanical skills. I'm learning as I go...reading the FSM, learning from fiascos, and gaining confidence. If you have someone willing to look over your shoulder -- I can think of no better way to learn.
NorCalDoug said:I happen to recall thinking to myself as my arms were getting scraped up (because I didn't pull the battery tray), "it's only $150 at the dealership...it's only $150 at the dealership...it's only $150 at the dealership..."
The upside of doing it yourself, is that you'll have not only the satisfaction of having done it, but if your belt ever bites the dust while you're driving somewhere, you COULD fix it yourself...if you had to.
Trust me Brent -- you and I probably have the same mechanical skills. I'm learning as I go...reading the FSM, learning from fiascos, and gaining confidence. If you have someone willing to look over your shoulder -- I can think of no better way to learn.
Can't disagree with one statement here Doug, except the fact that I don't know that I'd put my
skills anywhere yours. You're talking to someone that didn't know the front vs back of the damn transfer case when he replaced the center diff sensor/actuator...and that WAS using the FSM. hehehe 
But to your point - I do now! I'm just fearful of fawking up my DD.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #46
You replaced your center diff sensor/actuatorBrentbba said:Can't disagree with one statement here Doug, except the fact that I don't know that I'd put my
But to your point - I do now! I'm just fearful of fawking up my DD.
You've got more skillz than I have
Mine's my DD too.
You're smarter than the average monkey...get to it!
NorCalDoug said:You replaced your center diff sensor/actuator
You've got more skillz than I have
Mine's my DD too.
You're smarter than the average monkey...get to it!
SOB - you're going to talk me into this aren't you?
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #48
Talk you into it? No...I wouldn't do such a thing...Brentbba said:SOB - you're going to talk me into this aren't you?
You'll need a torque wrench and a basic socket set with some extensions and some metric wrenches (12mm and 14mm IIRC). The most difficult part for me was getting the lock bolt on the alternator loose due to the location of the belts and due to somewhat flared shape of the head of the lock bolt.
Pull the battery and battery tray and you should be able to EASILY access the adjustment screw on the alternator.
Double-dog dare ya
You dont need to remove the battery & tray to replace 2 beltsNorCalDoug said:
Just way too much work. C'mon now its only 3 belts job.I've done it so many times...as matter fact i just replaced them 2 weeks ago..
NorCalDoug said:
Told ya brent!!! 500% easier when the battery and tray are pulled! Come on down to my place and i could easily show ya how to do it. I did mine 500 miles ago and no squeaks!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I agree with LX. Leave the battery and tray in place. It takes a bit of touch but really no big deal. Doug just had problems because his wrists are as big as most people's legs.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #52
I'm going to be calling on each and everyone of you skinny armed, small wristed guys when I install my snorkel and replace my PHHCruiserdrew said:
Pull the battery/tray for this? Pull the lower metal pan?? I'll be back inside surfing MUD while you guys are swearing about the 14 bolts holding the battery tray on.
Break the alternator bolt loose with an ordinary wrench jammed in past the belt, then use a conventional socket to loosen it, or keep using the wrench. The lower A/C idler/tensioner has an access hole just for this purpose in the lower metal pan - lay under their and look how the hole perfectly lines up with the tensioner bolt. No need to pull it - Mr. T's looking out for you.
I'm not built like Popeye ('cept for the squint thing and the bowlegged walk), but this isn't a toughie except for the alternator tensioner bolt. That thing is really a time consuming pain simply because you have to run it all the way loose to get new tight belts on and space is limited. Worth the purchase of a gear wrench set next time Sears has 'em on sale. They'll come in handy elsewhere too (PHH work, removing starter, etc) where space is limited.
DougM
Break the alternator bolt loose with an ordinary wrench jammed in past the belt, then use a conventional socket to loosen it, or keep using the wrench. The lower A/C idler/tensioner has an access hole just for this purpose in the lower metal pan - lay under their and look how the hole perfectly lines up with the tensioner bolt. No need to pull it - Mr. T's looking out for you.
I'm not built like Popeye ('cept for the squint thing and the bowlegged walk), but this isn't a toughie except for the alternator tensioner bolt. That thing is really a time consuming pain simply because you have to run it all the way loose to get new tight belts on and space is limited. Worth the purchase of a gear wrench set next time Sears has 'em on sale. They'll come in handy elsewhere too (PHH work, removing starter, etc) where space is limited.
DougM
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #54
Come one Doug -- it's not nearly as fun if you don't unbolt some stuff
Wouldn't pulling the lower metal pan make the removal and installation of the A/C belt easier?
I was able to finally get the alternator lock bolt loose with a regular wrench, but that sucker was on there tight. And given that my 12mm wrench is fairly small/short, I had a hard time getting any kind of leverage on it.
I did use a gear wrench to tighten the adjuster bolt -- 1 click at a time...that took quite a while
However, when loosening the bolt, after a while, there wasn't enough tension on the bolt to use the gear wrench. That's when I had to resort to fingers...which required the Cirque de Soliel like contortion of my upper body to get at the adjuster bolt from the side.
One thing to mention about the gear wrenches. Don't cheap out when buying these. Pay extra if you need to a set that requires the least amount of movement to work. Many times you don't have much more that 5 degrees of room for movement...
Wouldn't pulling the lower metal pan make the removal and installation of the A/C belt easier?
I was able to finally get the alternator lock bolt loose with a regular wrench, but that sucker was on there tight. And given that my 12mm wrench is fairly small/short, I had a hard time getting any kind of leverage on it.
I did use a gear wrench to tighten the adjuster bolt -- 1 click at a time...that took quite a while
However, when loosening the bolt, after a while, there wasn't enough tension on the bolt to use the gear wrench. That's when I had to resort to fingers...which required the Cirque de Soliel like contortion of my upper body to get at the adjuster bolt from the side.
One thing to mention about the gear wrenches. Don't cheap out when buying these. Pay extra if you need to a set that requires the least amount of movement to work. Many times you don't have much more that 5 degrees of room for movement...
Doug,
I get all the belts on from the top, but ya gotta simply run that lower AC tensioner all the way loose. One time I did use the starter to bump a new belt on, but can't recall which belt. I've done belt changes on 3 80s over the years and this was the only time I resorted to that technique. Otherwise pretty much cake. My 93 FSM has a note to remind me to go to a certain page in the ENGINE section to be sure I loosen the correct bolts - a definite time saver when it's been a couple years.
Agree on the gear wrenches. I think they list in the 'specs' on them how far each click is in degrees. Get the smallest degree you can. Like the contorsionist reference, except I'm getting a visual of you in a skinsuit with clown faces on it. And I hate clowns/mimes/contortionists....
DougM
I get all the belts on from the top, but ya gotta simply run that lower AC tensioner all the way loose. One time I did use the starter to bump a new belt on, but can't recall which belt. I've done belt changes on 3 80s over the years and this was the only time I resorted to that technique. Otherwise pretty much cake. My 93 FSM has a note to remind me to go to a certain page in the ENGINE section to be sure I loosen the correct bolts - a definite time saver when it's been a couple years.
Agree on the gear wrenches. I think they list in the 'specs' on them how far each click is in degrees. Get the smallest degree you can. Like the contorsionist reference, except I'm getting a visual of you in a skinsuit with clown faces on it. And I hate clowns/mimes/contortionists....
DougM
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
- Thread starter
- #57
I find the skinsuit very confortable when working on the rig -- when I get it dirty, I just peel it off and put a new one onIdahoDoug said:
I eschew the grease paint through...I'm not a huge clown fan either...they've always given me the creeps.
Imagine your socket mating with your open/closed end wrench to produce a child with a closed end wrench with socket-like ratcheting abilities.Brentbba said:1/2
Here's a pic.
Just did mine. Thanks for all the tips! Took me a couple of hours start to finish, but I'm slow. This included running back in to my office a couple of times to check this thread and jawing with the 
a couple of times. I did remove the battery tray, which made it easier for me. I was glad I did as I found a big rust spot under the tray. Cleaned that up and shot some paint over it. 
a couple of times. I did remove the battery tray, which made it easier for me. I was glad I did as I found a big rust spot under the tray. Cleaned that up and shot some paint over it. 
alia176
SILVER Star
Doug,
Congrats on your triumph!
The next time you do this, try to do this all from the bottom (except the pivot bolt - see edit below)! I just did this project yesterday and did everything from under the vehicle, laying on a creepy crawler. The alt pivot bolt is hard to see from the bottom so you can stick the socket/ratchet on it from the top then climb under to loosen/tighten it. You shouldn't have to remove the battery or the tray if you work from underneath the vehicle. There's more room to turn wrenches down there as well.
For others, here're couple of hints:
-DON'T use 13 point sockets or 13 point closed end wrenches. These WILL round the corners of your hardware if they're stuck on real tight. I've converted all of my sockets to 6 point jobbers to prevent any more rounded bolt heads or nuts.
-Do use 6 point socket and ratchet or a breaker bar to break tough hardware loose. Then use your favorite gear wrench or ratcheting wrench (13 point is ok) to loosen it more if room is tight.
As Doug noticed, the sound of the engine running changed dramatically with the new belts. I guess I didn't notice how loud the older belts were.
Happy Monday,
Ali
ps the most used set of "gear wrench" type of wrenches in my garage is the set I bought at Autozone. These are branded Duralast and have lifetime warranty. What makes these better than other Gear wrenches is that they have offset heads (not swivels) and are reversible ratchets. The "off set" part makes these wrench very nice to use as compared to a normal set. The cost of a metric set is around $80 I belive.
<edit> the pivot bolt can be accessed from top and bottom. I did it both ways but the top is prolly easier for most! The ARB bumper does a number on the back while bending over to access some of these parts from up top.
Congrats on your triumph!
The next time you do this, try to do this all from the bottom (except the pivot bolt - see edit below)! I just did this project yesterday and did everything from under the vehicle, laying on a creepy crawler. The alt pivot bolt is hard to see from the bottom so you can stick the socket/ratchet on it from the top then climb under to loosen/tighten it. You shouldn't have to remove the battery or the tray if you work from underneath the vehicle. There's more room to turn wrenches down there as well.
For others, here're couple of hints:
-DON'T use 13 point sockets or 13 point closed end wrenches. These WILL round the corners of your hardware if they're stuck on real tight. I've converted all of my sockets to 6 point jobbers to prevent any more rounded bolt heads or nuts.
-Do use 6 point socket and ratchet or a breaker bar to break tough hardware loose. Then use your favorite gear wrench or ratcheting wrench (13 point is ok) to loosen it more if room is tight.
As Doug noticed, the sound of the engine running changed dramatically with the new belts. I guess I didn't notice how loud the older belts were.
Happy Monday,
Ali
ps the most used set of "gear wrench" type of wrenches in my garage is the set I bought at Autozone. These are branded Duralast and have lifetime warranty. What makes these better than other Gear wrenches is that they have offset heads (not swivels) and are reversible ratchets. The "off set" part makes these wrench very nice to use as compared to a normal set. The cost of a metric set is around $80 I belive.
<edit> the pivot bolt can be accessed from top and bottom. I did it both ways but the top is prolly easier for most! The ARB bumper does a number on the back while bending over to access some of these parts from up top.
Last edited:
