Drill Powered Oil Pressure? (1 Viewer)

[Coolerman]

OK...

Motor is a 2/71 F engine with maybe 130K on the clock, never rebuilt.

I've got 8 qts of new 20W-50 in the pulled and cleaned oil pan...

Oil pump screen was removed and cleaned.

New oil filter, new braided oil lines, Oil regulator taken apart, cleaned and re-installed (more on that in a sec)

I have a mechanical oil gauge hooked into the oil filter housing and laying on top of the engine so I can see it.

I have the dizzy out and a old F engine dizzy shaft chucked into a good corded drill.

I insert the shaft, engage the slot, and pull the trigger expecting to see oil pressure almost immediately. After 30 seconds nothing. Hmmmm....

I pulled the oil pressure sender and new oil dribbled out. Ok that's good. Spin the pump another 30 seconds...no pressure...

Then I remembered that I had left the oil regulator adjusting plug most of the way out. Screw it in about 1/2 way. Spin the pump and 20 lbs pressure! Seemed a bit low so I cranked it all the way in, spun the pump and only 25 PSI.

So how much pressure should I expect to see just using a drill to build pressure?

I've spun it for a total of maybe 4 minutes with no change in pressure. Thoughts?

FWIW I seem to remember the oil pressure being around 40 using the exact same gauge the last time it ran.

I also hooked up my brand new Auto Meter electric oil gauge and it reads the exact same thing.

 

[amaurer]

Depends on your drill. If you have a s***ty drill, or you've got it in the high torque gear, its probably only spinning at 500 rpm, so pressure would be below idle. If you have a good drill it could be as high as 1200 or 1400, which should give you close to cruise pressure.

Of course, I don't really know how to factor in the fact that all of your bearings aren't spinning...

 

[grant5127]

Check for pressure at the sender port... the oil filter housing check is only by-pass pressure......

 

[Coolerman]

Check for pressure at the sender port... the oil filter housing check is only by-pass pressure......

That's great news! So I may have good pressure after all. I'll move it to the output port and check it when I get in tonight. May have to back down the adjuster a notch or two...

Guess I will have to plumb a TEE into the OEM port so I can have both gauges.

Thanks for the education

 

[natvet]

Coolerman

Coolerman i have similar set up but mine is rebuilt. If you are able to find a T and take the pressure... please post up pics here or on your site and i will do the same and find out my oil pressure after rebuild.


Nathan

 

[Coolerman]

Can do, I'm about to go down stairs and move the mechanical to the OEM location and repeat the test.

 

[Coolerman]

It WORKED!

Check for pressure at the sender port... the oil filter housing check is only by-pass pressure......

Man it's nice to have folks smarter than me to rely on for information

Here are the results of moving the new electric oil sending unit to the OEM location.

First pic shows the setup: FJ60 dizzy removed, old dizzy shaft chucked into a drill to spin the oil pump, snd lawn mower battery to power the electric oil pressure meter.
Second pic shows oil pressure at slow speed on the drill.
Third pic shows pressure with drill wide open.

I figure that the true pressure will be somewhat lower when the engine is actually running since, one, the cam is not aligned allowing oil flow to the rocker arms, and two, heat will thin the oil.

I will probably have to turn down the regulator a bit.

Not bad for a 37 year old engine with 130K miles.

Over all I'm pleased with the readings.

 

[natvet]

Oil pressure

That pressure looks great.. where did you hook the gauge into? Where is the output port? Thanks

nathan

 

[Coolerman]

I put the electric sending unit in the block where the OEM sensor goes. I put the OEM sending unit into the oil filter port just to plug the hole until I can get some plugs.

 

[natvet]

Thanks

I got it. Thanks Coolerman I owe you numerous

Thanks

 

[fj40er]

I just did the same thing, my drill worked great, and my Snap-On tool work great to.

pics:

 

[Trollhole]

What I think some people will do though is spin the drill and take a reading. I don't know how accurate it would be on later f's and 2f motors since the cam controls the oil going to the head. UNless the whole engine is turning there wouldn't be a good way that I know of to get an accurate reading. Granted what I have done on priming the system was spin the drill for 30 seconds and then turn the crank a few degrees then repeat eventually oil will start coming out of the valvetrain.

I'm sure one of the professionals know where to have the crank where the passage was open. Probably TDC.

 

[Coolerman]

My main reason for doing this was to see if my "rebuilt" oil regulator was in fact working. When I disassembled the regulator I found that the o-ring was cracked and the piston was scarred. After many searches on the web to see what type of o-ring would stand up t 50-60 PSI, the oil itself and the temps common to the oil I found that Nitrile would withstand this environment. I just happened to have a few that were very close to the outside/inside diameter but were just a bit thinner. Here is a link to the thread where I tore it apart.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/138040-oil-regulator-question.html

 

[grant5127]

Coolerman.... you could leave a gauge @ the filter head and use it as a monitor as such..... as the motor is used and the filter gets restricted (dirty) the pressure reading will increase, so much so in time it will read the same as the other reading on the side of the block...... a high reading on the filter head is a indication the filter is no longer doing its job and its time to replace.....anyway, that what folks of the times long ago did on irrigation engines and farm equipment before the invention of hour meters and on autos the odometer............