Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much?

[norsk]

Other things going on at the barn and I was shown the following electric fan project in process
Here is a shot of a couple of 10" spal fans being fab'd for a FJ-45 truck with a diesel. It has a smaller rad than the FJ60

2-1/2" depth:

 

[norsk]

I am copying waytovich's project from https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/underhood-electrical-enclosure.820375/#post-9396407 for enclosing electrical parts, including relays. Here is my box and the cutting board insert:

trying to get a holder framed for it on the fender

dougbert

 

[norsk]

For JohninFla:

do you remember or have the records for what upper and lower radiator hoses you used?
Starting with those would be a great benefit for me?

thanks

dougbert

 

[Elbert]

have radiator shop move lower water neck on radiator tank to the far right position....thats what I did... I would use the mechanical GM FAN and matching fan clutch. I also had top water neck at radiaor resized to match the size on the intake water neck.

 

[JohninFla]

Doug,
Yes I do someplace. The upper is just a flex hose. Lower is a hose I found with a good elbow and the correct diameter and I cut to fit.

I will find and post the part number.

 

[JohninFla]

Doug

Upper hose - I used a 20 inch long, 1 3/4 inch ID flex hose, but I tried the Dayco 7672 part number, and then discovered it was only good for a straight thermostat housing.

Lower hose - Lower hose from a 1973 chevy pickup with a 350 engine, auto trans. no part number in my notes. What you need is a 1 3/4 inch ID with a 90 degree bend, and about 6-8 inches on each leg. I know I had to trim the hose I used to get it to fit without a wrinkle in it.

I dug in the pile of receipts, and found a note to myself:
Upper Gates - 20416, Napa 7240
Lower Gates 20573 Napa 7344

Then I found this in my build thread: Duh.
I figured out a lower radiator hose, (Dayco 70399), that fits the 1 3/4 chevy outlet and the stock Toyota radiator connection, cut the last 3 inches off to fit.

I hope this helps you. I do recall I had quite a time getting to the Dayco 70399 point.

John

 

[norsk]

thanks for the hose information - ordered them both (Dayco and upper Gates) and documented them in early posts of this thread for reference.
Got the hood on - but only due to the fact that my "tent" blew down due to the storm that came in, knocked over my table of tools and parts, etc and generally made a mess. Layered several blue tarps on the rig (no glass/no doors in it at the moment and 3 big cut out holes in the roof).

The hood really makes it look like a FJ60 again and now protects the engine area.
Made some good progress on the relay box until needed more parts and when I got back the disaster had hit. Had no time for pics due to the high wind and rain - it happens sometimes to a guy, doesn't it?

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Got the new, smaller radiator fan and got it installed this morning and it rotates fine with plenty of room at the bottom radiator pipe.
Then I installed the hood lift pistons and they work great!!!! Much easier to lift and very nice to have the hood UP!
But forgot the camera this morning so will snap some tomorrow

Also the upper and lower hoses arrived.
Things are coming together......

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Some good weather this weeek and I remembered to bring my charged phone, so here are some updated pics:

The way I wrap the truck up at night to protect from rain and from the wind from the west. A bit too big a tarp though:

What the wind did to my "tent" support last saturday and some 9000 foot mountains in the distance:

With the hood on, and the new Hella horns, AC condenser, hood latch and bracket installed.
Hood stops are not installed (can't find them - ordered new ones) so hood is crooked:

ALSO, see 2 of Jake's 35x12.5 tires on the front - I think I like 'em.....
My current tires: 31.50x10.5 tires to the left - studded ones.

Hood up with the lift shocks/pistons working well and making it "easy" to lift and stay up:

With the hood shocks doing their new job - don't know the best direction to put them in, or even if there is a best way, easy to switch if someone says the other way is best:

 

[norsk]

Here is a pic of the relay enclosure box on passenger fender:

And the box open - input lug on the upper right, accessory lug below that and future winch lug on the upper left. The white "field to the left is for the 5 or 6 relays going in. Convoluted tubing on all wires:

Looking from the front

Side view of the new fan installed

Another:

I can see that fab'ing a new shroud will be a challenge, but think I have might have someone who would do it.

 

[norsk]

A shot of both stainless battery trays, fan and relay enclosure

Alot of this might be just "regular" assembly of parts, but I run into issues now and then, and need to "design" then implement a fix. I like documenting all what I am doing, both for myself and for others who might not know just how to solve a particular issue. These are just my solutions I have come to.

BTW: I found that the Stainless battery trays have different hold down ties. Since I will be buying 2 DieHard P2s, he sells the ties downs for the P2 AND a tie down that will hold the coolant overflow bottle. That is good and will acquire one shortly because I have not be able to solve just where to put that bottle.

http://www.stainlesstrays.com/ for his products.

dougbert

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You'll be driving her before you know it

 

[norsk]

You'll be driving her before you know it

Ooooh, I hope so....

5 hours every morning on the rig, shower, eat, then off to work, back home at 10PM. Sleep, repeat. This coming Saturday looks wonderful, weatherwise, and I have several more parts incoming before then.

Doing all this work while we have WARM SUNNY weather. Suppose to be sunny in the 60s out til next Wednesday. I will be utilizing every moment, tying up loose ends.

BECAUSE the Storms are surely coming up here, mile high ....... 19 days til the ski slopes open .... right! they need snow. If you look at the mountains in the above pic, the snow is very, very lite up there.

dougbert

 

[boots4]

... I like documenting all what I am doing, both for myself and for others who might not know just how to solve a particular issue. These are just my solutions I have come to.

It's definitely nice to share but I know I've gone back to my own tread many times to look up what bolt size on this part or why I did that thing. It's been very helpful. Keep up the details.

 

[norsk]

Installed the upper rad hose (with my old temp sensor inline), and then cut some hose off the lower hose and it fits great. One issue with the lower hose is there is not a spring in the hose, and we need that to keep the hose from collapsing. Need to go research an option for that.

UPDATE: Found the following in regards to a low radiator hose spring needed to prevent collapsing hose:

http://www.martiauto.com/faqfocus.cfm?qid=20 ------- MYTH

I need a spring for my radiator hose. Where can I find one?


The thought that a spring is needed in a radiator hose is a common misconception, that springs (pun intended) from two events.


The first is that many (although not all) lower radiator hoses on the production assembly line had springs in them. The reason for this was the method by which the assembly lines filled the cooling systems. To save time, a special vacuum/fill fitting was placed over the radiator fill connection (the place where the radiator cap would eventually be placed. A vacuum machine was turned on to evacuate most of the air out of the cooling system. Once completed, the fill portion was turned on to introduce the coolant into the system. This process avoided entrained air preventing the system from being completed filled. The purpose of the hose spring was to prevent collapse during the vacuum portion of the fill cycle.


The second part of the story that has led to the "I need a spring" myth is that some people have observed their lower hose collapsing when they rev the engine. This is the result of a clogged radiator or a cooling system that has not been brought up to standard operating temperature. If an engine is revved up while still cool, there is only atmospheric pressure in the system. It is possible for the lower hose to collapse slightly due to the water pump drawing water out of the lower hose faster than the gravity-fed water from the radiator replaces it. Once the engine has been warmed up, the coolant system operates under pressure and this condition doesn't exist in a properly maintained cooling system. However, if the radiator tubes have restrictions, as the engine is revved, the water pump pulls coolant from the lower hose faster than water can trickle past the clogged tubes. This can result in a reduction in internal pressure that would cause the hose to collapse.


Note that the events that lead to the thought that "I need a spring" are based on either an insufficiently warmed up engine or a clogged radiator. The spring does not take care of these events. It merely masks a symptom. If, after your vehicle has reached normal operating temperature but you experience a collapsing hose, have your radiator tested.


As an additional thought, have you ever wondered where your original spring went? Did you ever find bits and pieces of it scattered throughout the cooling system? Being made of ordinary steel, they corrode with time, small pieces gradually breaking off and either scoring the water pump impeller, tearing the water pump seal, or clogging the radiator. They aren't necessary for the functioning of a properly maintained cooling system.

Thoughts on this from the group?


Wiring

Worked on the driver's side OEM wiring harness. It has all those connectors that to went to all the old smog controls, carb fan and other what not devices. A side from them, I have the wires for the turn signal, horn, parking and side lights isolated, to re-wrap and cover them. I only need the parking/turn signal and side light. The horn wiring is being replaced with a wire connected to a relay for the new Hella horns and will come from the passenger side.

But here in this picture, on the left are the wires that I can't use anymore, some look like they carry some amps (the two on the left of the wires - white and yellow on red, with the blue connector):

In there are 3 wires for the driver's side head light, but since I have an other harness I don't need them any more either. When I did my own headlight harness, all I got from those little wires for the head lights was 11.2 volts. My harness uses relays and 10 gauge wire and I get 14.2 volts AT the headlight - sure is nice and bright.

One option I have is to simply tie them all up, put a bag over them and stuff then down on the rear part of the fender and leave them for the future - for something.

What have others done with these wires? There are some ignition switched power in there, but most are under some type of emission control or other type of control operation, and those no longer work, nor are needed.

What do others think?

dougbert

 

[Elbert]

make sure you have no hot wires, tape them up and bundle them...tie straps along the left and right upper fender well.

 

[JohninFla]

I think the heavy wires on he left might be the headlight washer pump. I wrapped mine up and left hem there

 

[norsk]

I think the heavy wires on he left might be the headlight washer pump. I wrapped mine up and left hem there

did the same. Re-wrapped in tape all the wires I am not using, left the connectors hanging out:

tied them up, put a protector around them so they won't get cut and stuffed them into the fender where the carb fan used to be:

 

[norsk]

Picked up this sweet bundle of joy from Sears this morning:

Platinum P2, I checked last week and it was going for $235, then I ordered it on Saturday evening, and got some type of "Family and Friends" discount (whose family, whose friends I don't know) and knocked off $23+. Final cost with sales tax was $225 and change. Ordered via http://www.craftsman.com/diehard-pl...p-02851065000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

Exchanged with a very old core, so don't know what their core charge would be.

I wanted this baby after researching Optimas, then reviews on them, and references to Odyssey, then further references to the P2 OEM'd from Odyssey. Several other mudders seem to like this one, so I got it.

The need is to turn over the power train. I am just about there. Need to finish the Power Steering hoses out to the oil cooler. 3/8" hose to/from the pump BUT the cooler I bought a long time ago is 1/2", so I still need to find a male-male barb'd coupler with 1/2"x3/8". Can't find them local. Will hook them up when I get some adapter and PS will be ready to fill.

UPDATE: Found a source at......JEGS (#555-15947), google linked me to them. Alrighty now.

On Saturday, got most of the fuel lines and filter hooked up, and finished the last leg today with 5/16" from metal fuel line, thru the FJ60 (new) filter and on to the fuel pump. 1/4" return line from pump back to return metal line.

Head light harness is fixed up to fit this engine, etc. Built it a couple of years ago for the rig.

Lastly have ordered the various parts for the exhaust system (muffler, V-band clamps, elbows and the like) and will pay Jake to weld/install it all.

THEN we will fire it up. Waiting.......waiting......waiting.......

dougbert


PS One problem hit this morning. That was the clips holding the PS oil cooler to the AC condenser. It was cold out, and slightly touched the cooler and TWANG, snapped one of those nylon straps that go through the fins. Dang. Adjusted the cooler again and TWANG a second time.

Conclusion: Those ties are NOT very strong, but rather are a POS product. Anyone have a lead to some GOOD straps?

UPDATE: I was looking at another zip tie product which stated the following:

DO NOT COMPARE THESE KITS TO THE KITS THAT COME WITH METAL SPRINGS,THE METAL SPRING KITS ARE CHEAP LOW GRADE PLASTIC KITS THAT BREAK EASILY. BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN KITS AND THE OTHERS. THESE KITS ARE OF MUCH HIGHER QUALITY, THEY ARE MUCH STRONGER AND ARE NYLON.

My first kit was the one with the "springs" - more tuition. So I ordered this vender's product:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181458777167

and we shall see if they are correct in that their product IS stronger.
I did learn - DON'T buy the ones with the springs

 

[Elbert]

I'm really waiting to see how this goes...really interested in how the torque splitter performs and noise level it generates. The OD part of the torque splitter has some interest...especially for us low geared folks or at least I think so. As I understand it ....the torque splitter is either in direct mode or in overdrive mode...with something like 27% overdrive. Not sure my calculation is correct but if I have 4.88 R*P with over drive "on" it would put me at something like a 3.55 gear, which would make my truck "happier" on the pavement and might give it some dual use, as presently I find 4.88 a little steep to hit the pavement very long with, if I had a ranger unit. Seems like the ranger should be about bullet proof, I've just never seen one in use.