Door panel removal procedure

[John kiger]

Nice write up. I am e newbie stuck on step 11. Put it all back together but will try again. My question is when I get the panel off and the window is down, in order to tighten the door handle screw or nut, will I need to roll the window back up to get to the inside of the handle? If so do I just temporarily plug the widow electronics back in to roll it up? Thanks. The passenger side handle is getting looser.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Here is a good video on how to get the door panels off on YouTube, put up by Mud member Clay/TexasKnowHow:

 

[dnp]

Good video by TKH, but I HIGHLY recommend using a plastic or nylon (e.g., Harbor Freight, etc.) interior panel tool! A metal screwdriver or butter knife will quickly scratch your plastic or crack your door paint. Also, prying close to the plastic door rivets with this tool (not pulling on them with your hands) will help prevent tearing the plastic rivets out of the back of the door panel. More often than not, they won't tear out; however, it does happen sometimes. And if it does, you're "done" with that attachment point, as I've never seen a legitimate repair.

 

[MScruiser]

Used this guide to replace my window run this afternoon. Super helpful!

 

[PNWFJ80]

Thank you for this wright up, you covered the few steps that were missing in the other how to's I looked at.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

What is that ?

 

[Tedward]

Door lock controller
"Computer"

 

[KlunkerBiker]

Thank your for this post. Made it a breeze!

 

[paulzak]

3. Carefully slide a flat tool under the leading (front) edge of the window/door switch panel. Gently pry up on this piece, being careful not to scratch the plastic. There is a spring-type clip near the front edge, so once this releases, you can pull up this panel to reveal the underside and wiring. Before you go any further, let the window all the way down. It’ll make things easier at the end. On the underside of the window switch wiring connector (forgot to take a photo), there is a “button” that must be depressed on the plug to allow it to release from the power window switch. Press this button, and pull out the wiring plug.
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Thank you! This photo of how the switch pad comes up is very helpful. P

 

[lklane1983]

7. There are 13 pop-in “rivets” on the back of the fiberboard door panel backing. Remember this IS a cardboard-like panel, so be advised that it IS possible to pull the panel in a way that tears these rivets off the door panel (I did so on a couple of them, until I figured out to pry the door panel very close to each rivet - unfortunately, until I did this the first time myself, I didn’t know how many rivets to expect to find). Once you’ve popped all of the rivets loose, simply pull the bottom of the door panel away from the door a short distance, and lift the leading and trailing edges of the panel straight up. If the window sweep catches on the upper part of the door, just move the door panel bottom a bit closer to the door and pull up again. It should come off without any real problem.
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This was insanely helpful. Thank you!!

 

[Kernal]

Step 7 is about the most important step once all the fasteners and rivets are revmoved/disengaged. I've watched others just grab and yank on the panel like a gorilla which can break the plastic at the top of the panel. You need to gently bump it vertically first to release the panel from the pinch effect of the door glass against the top edge of the panel. Otherwise you can crack the formed plastic at the top of the door panel. FWIW.

 

[dnp]

Step 7 is about the most important step once all the fasteners and rivets are revmoved/disengaged. I've watched others just grab and yank on the panel like a gorilla which can break the plastic at the top of the panel. You need to gently bump it vertically first to release the panel from the pinch effect of the door glass against the top edge of the panel. Otherwise you can crack the formed plastic at the top of the door panel. FWIW.

Very true! I've attempted to repair several of those broken plastic areas before.......some successfully, some not

 

[wfd175]

I would add when I replaced my window regulators, after their first one I figured out that trying to peel the vapor barrier was a
Bad idea

For the second one I only “X” cut the big hole where the regulator comes out and the couple of holes to loosen the nuts. Then Gorilla taped the holes back up.

I don’t know if everyone’s mastic is as bonded to the vapor barrier as mine was, but it ripped more than it pulled away for easy re-adhesion

 

[ppc]

That is why you use a knife to slice through the butyl (mastic) as you remove the plastic instead of pulling the crap out the plastic and destroying it.