Door Oil Can Effect (1 Viewer)

[Pitter Patter]

Hi @hanzo111

Thanks so much for offering to help when I asked! I'm posting a new thread so I don't bomb the 'what did you do this week' thread. Here's the pics you requested.

Quick recap. I hired a guy to patch my doors and that was a huge mistake, I was trying to speed up the project, but should have done this myself. Now I'm in the position of trying to fix his work. The door patch came back to me totally flat along the exterior and the original door metal above the patch had a harsh ridge where it attached, the original metal also bent into an oil can shape. I spent about an hour working on this over a month ago (hence the new surface rust); I dramatically improved the ridge along most of the door and lessened the oil can effect. What I really need to know is how much oil canning should the door have? Or should the entire lower half of the door be dead flat. Forgot to take photo horizontally but you will get the idea.

Side note, everything will get sandblasted and then professionally painted when I'm done with the body work. Point being, the real pros will be able to do a lot to mask any shoddy work but I would like to have as little filler as possible and it's important to me to do my best.

Measurements reference:

At 6" in, about 3mm deflection:

At 10" in, about 3mm deflection:

At 14", about 4.5mm deflection:

The deflection is also uneven. It is higher than center from the base of the door to the stamped ridge. More pics in a minute...

 

[hanzo111]

No problem, man, if your length is OK and your outer edge is also pretty straight meaning where it tapers down from the centerpoint that you’re measuring I would literally scuff that thing with 36 grit and body fill using high-quality body filler that will not shrink. I wouldn’t even think about it. That’s not that big of a deal.

 

[hanzo111]

Again, you can give me a call at anytime during normal hours

 

[Pitter Patter]

At 18", about 2mm deflection and wavy:

At 22", about 2mm deflection and wavy:

At 26", about 3.5mm deflection and the ridge line is more pronounced because I haven't worked that side much yet:

 

[Pitter Patter]

At 30", its really bad and a harsh ridge along the patch. Here's a few different angles:

 

[hanzo111]

At 30", its really bad and a harsh ridge along the patch. Here's a few different angles:

View attachment 3699019View attachment 3699020View attachment 3699021

I don’t like the last view. Can you push it out from the inside. I usually use a rubber handle of a hammer and hit it a few times from the inside

I to will pop out, if not fully you will get better than what you have.

Again it’s totally salvageable

 

[Pighead]

I seem to recall the old street-rod body shop guys knowing how to shrink sheet metal panels. Might that work here?

 

[Pitter Patter]

Yeah I’ve already shrunk and worked a bunch of it. All of it was like those last photos, I just haven’t worked that side.

Is the consensus that I just need to get it all within a couple mm of deflection and it will be fine?

Should the door be flat or do you guys have some oil can shape to your doors?

 

[pb4ugo]

Is it warped or is it oil canning? Oil canning usually refer to a panel that is unstable snd pops in and out and sometimes making a popping sound like an old oil can.

 

[Pitter Patter]

It did pop in and out when I first got it back but I shrank down the hinge side enough to stop that. I’ll work on it more tomorrow. Still curious if it needs to be flat or should it be a little dished out to be like OEM

 

[Hugh Heifer]

If you shrank it and it is no longer oil canning that's a win. Did you use a shrinking disc?

 

[3_puppies]

the non hinge side of the door, the patch panel seems off
first pic post 1 the seem doesn't match the door, like the hinge side does
wondering if the patch panel has a deeper raised section the further away from the hinge side to the latch side of the door, which would match the #'s getting higher across the door

 

[Pitter Patter]

Circling back on this with an update. I set it aside and focused on other work. Good news is the body work and fitment is close to done. Been chatting with the painters. They’re booked out until fall but that’s cool because it gives me time to correct all the garbage stuff I paid someone else to do.

I just couldn’t live with the quality of this work so I’m redoing it. Only had an hour to work on it today but will post up some pics tomorrow when I get back to it. Using an old patch panel…hence the surface rust.

Will try to get the curvature to match the OG passenger side door. Already looks better cutting out that section and mocking this up.

 

[anothernz45]

Stopping oil canning is the most important, the panel pinging in and out causes stress cracks around the hinge area. How are you shrinking?
You've had to do a lot more work than me.
To me the original patch looked pretty good, push the low bits up then shrink them and skim fill.

 

[Pitter Patter]

A bit more work today. The hinge side still wants to pop in and out and the recess is way too deep.
So I cut a relief in it then pulled it up and tacked it. This lessened the depth of the concave and now matches the untouched door in how much concave it has, also stopped it from moving.

I’m mocking up a patch. Pre-bending it. This is what the Mc Tard didn’t do an why there was a step between the patch and the original door.

 

[Pitter Patter]

Stopping oil canning is the most important, the panel pinging in and out causes stress cracks around the hinge area. How are you shrinking?
You've had to do a lot more work than me.
To me the original patch looked pretty good, push the low bits up then shrink them and skim fill.

View attachment 3893766

Love your truck! A 45 is on the short list for future vehicles. I’m using a torch to heat the area then hammering in a circular pattern just outside the heated area. Had decent success with that method on other panels but not so much on this because the metal is thinner and has much more surface area that’s unsupported. This method of cutting a relief channel, clamping an alignment and tacking it seems to be working. I’ll get back to this in a few days and circle back. Thanks to everyone for your advice!

 

[DesertFJ40]

Nice job, sucks when you pay somone to do the work for you and then you receive it done poorly. A waste of your time and money, glad you were able yo figure out how to properly repair it on your own.

 

[anothernz45]

Be very careful, looks like you're about to weld a dish back into your door skin. The door should be the same profile as that original patch panel - there are 2 issues with that door, the rusty bottom and the stretched skin. The rust repair was very nicely done, have a look at the weld under the 3rd small X in post 13, thats tig or even oxy. The only issue was the mismatched bit at the edge which is hard to avoid when the 2 panels are different lengths - top bit is stretched, but that panel crease could have been moved across with a bit of hammer and dolly work. Yes, the weld still needed dressing but you've done that.
Then there's the stretched skin - your cutting a slice then welding will work but get all those panels up flat before you weld them, once you mig a butt you'll make it very hard to work.
I wouldn't slice any more, tho - stretches are round which is why a shrink works better, I did touch on what worked for me in my long thread.
Happy welding!