Add me to the list of people who are thankful for this thread. I just replaced my driver's side front door with a new Aisin unit from RockAuto (I have a 2005, paid $89) and this thread and photos were incredibly helpful. I was intimidated at first, but once you get things apart the photos and notes on this thread make sense. Thank you to those that contributed.
Door Lock Actuator Replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter socalsuv
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Would these Camry actuators work for the LC rear doors as well? It appears they are reversed for rear doors i.e. T464912 is front left & rear right and T464911 is front right & rear left. We've tried this arrangement, but the right rear door will not unlock now either manually or electronically (and the door is closed). The Camry actuators worked great for the front doors.
same actuators. and even the rear hatch takes a passenger side actuator
I haven't tried the rears, only the front, but good to know!
Anybody?
I am not really 3D printer savvy, but it seems like an easy job for a 3D printer.
you're looking at the new aisin assembly from rock auto. sorry.
on a side note. i replaced my passenger side actuator with the camry unit and it's still acting up. possibly more so now. keeps getting stuck halfway when using the key on driver side or remote to open. usually opens all the way if i use the door lock button. i think something else is going on.
on a side note. i replaced my passenger side actuator with the camry unit and it's still acting up. possibly more so now. keeps getting stuck halfway when using the key on driver side or remote to open. usually opens all the way if i use the door lock button. i think something else is going on.
This reminded me, does anyone know the purpose of this piece? It is rubber. When I was replacing my actuators, I guess one of my fell out and I didn't realize it until I was all closed back up. My passenger lock worked well after replacing, but didn't take long to stop working again. Could missing this piece be the reason?
its just a breather. i think you'll be fine
Just ordered my Aisin replacement from Rock Auto. I hope it fixes my issues. Any insight into how the overall system works? Some days it will only be the driver's side that fails to actuate. If it has been sitting in the sun on a warm day all of the locks will fail to fire. Is there a trigger that looks to the state of the driver's side switch before the others actuate? Is there a circuit board or little computer in the door that heats up and causes the issue?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Somewhere there is talk about how the older the actuator the worse it does in heat, for whatever reason.
I am having similar issues. When temps didn't get above 70 in the last week or so, and since i disconnected my aftermarket control, the locks have worked beautifully. Then last week temps started rising in the days, getting above 70-75 and the locks started having issues where unlocking would set off the alarm regardless of manual or fob and which door.
I THINK it is a combination of the electrical resistance of the old lock actuators and possibly the lock sensors. But don't remember where I was reading it and haven't gotten back to researching.
I think it's just the individual motors in each door that will fail (when they are old) if that motor gets hot enough. I've now done 3 of the 5 doors on my 100 series and each failure follows the exact same behavior - if that door gets hot enough, the actuator no longer works. I pull the door apart and replace the little motor and that fixes it no matter how hot the car gets after that.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Good to know.. Yeah I am at the point where I BELIEVE all my locks flip but have not watched each one. I have replaced the drivers motor already and did notice that the passenger front has a bit slow. Unfortunately, with my 98 I either have the option of cutting the actuator assembly open to replace the motor (which is a bitch), replace the entire mechanism, or try the camry actuator trick.
I think I am going to try the Camry trick on the passenger front door next and then last resort, do the full mechanism.
I'm pretty sure all of the 100's are the same as far as fixing the actuators - replace the motors or replace the whole actuator. Most have just opened the actuators and replace the little motor. Definitely the cheapest option but for me, not long lasting. I've replaced all 5 in my 2003 three times but I'm in northern California where it's regularly above 100 in the summer. One of my rear passenger doors is starting to fail again now that it's hot out. I can now do a motor replacement in one door in 20-30 minutes, it's not really a difficult job.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
yeah I get you... I'm in NorNV so while we don't get quite as hot as you, we get pretty damn hot. Grew up in the central valley so I know about hot.
I am not sure what actually changed, or if anything ACTUALLY did, but if you look on RockAuto and most other sites you will see you can buy the actuator individually for 03+ but 98-92 you have to buy the ENTIRE mechanism that has everything including the lines for the lock switch.
Oh, got it. I wonder if the actuators are actually different in the 03+? Is it possible to just get an actuator from an 03+ and swap into your lock mechanism? I haven't read through this whole thread in a long time so I don't know if the actuators are all the same or not.
Thank you ih8mud members! Saved me a tone of money again! The weather started to warm up in Cali and my front door stopped working. Bought the motors on eBay for 22 bucks. EBAY MOTOR Now my doors are working again! It was pretty easy to pry it open with a heat gun. I didn't add any glue when I closed it up because I didn't want to go to the store and get it.
I just heated it again and put 3 zip ties on it. Forgot to take the pics with the zip tie.
Ended up with an extra bolt and breather. Too lazy to figure where it goes, the door works fine.
I just heated it again and put 3 zip ties on it. Forgot to take the pics with the zip tie.
Ended up with an extra bolt and breather. Too lazy to figure where it goes, the door works fine.
Ended up with an extra bolt and breather. Too lazy to figure where it goes, the door works fine.
Your window may not work fine.
Nvm. Figure it out. It was the bolt that was holding the window rails below the white cover. Figured it out when I did the drive side and compare bolts.
Any idea where that extra bolt goes? I can't figure it out...
You're 100% right. I went to go test the window just as I read your comment. The window rolls down slanted. Time to find where that bolt goes. And does the breather need to be reinstall too?
Any idea where that extra bolt goes? I can't figure it out...
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