Door Hinge Bronze Bushing (1 Viewer)

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shipmag

Hagler Technology LLC. Aka Shipmag
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Threads
71
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1,774
Location
Cape Girardeau Missouri
I was thinking about installing Bronze Busshings in my door hinges. I was going to replace the pin with a chrome 5/16 x 4 1/2 bolt. Then I found a Flange Bronze Bushing from Boston Gear the Id is .314 and the od is .377 which works for the new bolt. I would have to drill the door hinge and the body door hinge to .377. I was going to install a flange bushing on the door part of the hinge and a sleve bushing on the body part of the hinge. The purpose of the bolt is so I can remove the doors if I wanted to without having to use a hammer on the pin which is really hard to do when the hinge is on the truck. I know there is a guy on mud that has bronze bushings to replace the nylon OEM bushings but that is still using the old pin I believe. There is another guy that has redesigned the hinge so the door can be removed just by lifting the door off. Although that is easier I don't do it very often and its not worth 130 some dollars to me. However I was thinking about chroming the hinges after I drilled them out but before I installed the bushings. Drilling the hinges out is a no cost. I don't know at this point what the 4 sleeve and 4 flange bushings will cost but it has to be cheaper than the fast removal hinge. If I bought the new hinges I would still want to chrome them. I did that to my 74 FJ40 and was very pleased with the result. I also chromed my hood hinges as well as my rear hinges. I did not chrome the windshield hinge last time but am considering doing it on the 76. I am writing this in hopes to get some feed back of the PROS and Cons of doing it as I can't make up my mind what I want to do. I am open to your thoughts just be nice about it.
 
I found that neither the plastic nor the bronze bushings fit well in my door hinges, so I run the pins without any bushings :meh:
 
I found that neither the plastic nor the bronze bushings fit well in my door hinges, so I run the pins without any bushings :meh:

Rattley?

In my '78 I put in the brass ones, but they deformed when I installed them and I had to drill them out a little.
 
I'm the 'other' guy here with the Quik Hinges. I understand what you're trying to do. Unless you have really good machining skills and tools, getting the holes drilled or reamed just right to maintain the correct geometry may cost you more time and frustration than it's worth. I considered those details before redesigning the hinge. Keeping the pins in the stock location with the intent of removing them will be complicated with the top hinge. The pin is likely to contact your windshield frame unless you pivot the frame forward every time you want to remove or install them.

What I found with every stock piece I studied is that none of the holes are perfectly round, so finding a true center may be difficult. Mr. Toyota didn't use a true machined round piece at the hinge joint. He used one wrapped and welded piece; and machined a best fit bore for high production.

When I started building hinges, it was just for my truck. The time and effort it took helped me realize that the idea was worth sharing.

Matthew
 
Rattley?

In my '78 I put in the brass ones, but they deformed when I installed them and I had to drill them out a little.

no rattles from the doors on my truck ;p

my rattles come from elsewhere - foremost the damn Hi-Lift :mad:
 
I used some bolts same diameter as the pins (M8 I think?) and nylocks, along with some flat washers at the ends. Installed the top bolt upside down, so I can get it out without needing to fold the windshield forward slightly (can't as I have the solid plates, not hinges) Just put new nylon bushings in the doors, works fine with the bolt in there.
 
Diskord said:
I used some bolts same diameter as the pins (M8 I think?) and nylocks, along with some flat washers at the ends. Installed the top bolt upside down, so I can get it out without needing to fold the windshield forward slightly (can't as I have the solid plates, not hinges) Just put new nylon bushings in the doors, works fine with the bolt in there.

Other option is to carefully getting one side of the pin head flat next time it's off. That way it'll clear the windscreen frame when you pop it out.
 
Other option is to carefully getting one side of the pin head flat next time it's off. That way it'll clear the windscreen frame when you pop it out.

Or just install the top pin in upside down.
 
Yep, upside down was one of the best tricks I learned on here!
 
I was thinking alignment of the two pieces should be easy. Use a drill that fits the existing hole put it in a vise on the drill press and drill each part out to .375 and insert a 5/16 id x 3/8 od bronze bushing. Should work. Fortunately i have two sets of hinges so i have not much risk. Use a chrome 4 1/2 bolt for the pin with a nut.
 
SouthBostonFJ said:
Or just install the top pin in upside down.

I did that on my '76 in college. After one Colorado winter though I had a lot of trouble getting one back out. When I finally got it out, the bottom had rusted pretty badly which I attributed to the head holding water in the lower hinge.

The word 'getting' is meant to be 'grind' by the way but I somehow missed it when my phone thought getting would look nicer.
 
I used similar Oilite bushings. Off the shelf bushings, in stock, and an excelent product. I found that the flange needed to be filed down a bit to achieve to make it fit. They should outlast the truck:D

Drilling out the ovaled hinges was super easy. :D
 
I made a bunch of bushes. Don't need them anymore.
image-898252875.jpg
 
Well i ordered 2 flange bushings and 12 sleeves 5/16 id 3/8 od plan on lining the hinges up in the vise on the drill press using a drill that is the same size as the hinge to align the hinge to be in line with the drill. Then before i press the bushings in im going to chrome plate the hinges. Stay tune will see how the plan works out. If it doesnt then i will by the half hinges the bushings are two bucks a piece.
 
You can Likely find a local Oilite Bushing distributor and get them locally.
 
Well I got 12 sleeve bushings and four flanged bushings. They are boston gear ordered from my local bearing store. The cost was more than I expected. $48 for the bushings. Now the fun of drilling them and not installing them until I get them plates.
 

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