Haha, nah, not going to be me!
Dometic CF-80 Fridge/Freezer 80l $456.79 on Amazon! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter thegoldrun
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Yeah, it definitely seems sketchy. They are cheap though!I went to the Amazons sellers web page for warranty info on the Dellas and found nothing. Tried the phone number provided and every time I called it would rings twice and go dead. Any hope or confidence on a deal is now gone
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
I saw bad reviews on the della, so I was going to stay away, you think its worthwhile? Im almost done with my rear drawers now.
- Thread starter
- #25
This thing is huge! 30 beers in one of the 4 compartments
Plugged it into 110 AC, set it to 41F and monitoring it with an external digital thermometer. So far, so good..
Plugged it into 110 AC, set it to 41F and monitoring it with an external digital thermometer. So far, so good..
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Its an old model, it must have been around 20+ years badged as a Waeco. I have had a used one I picked up 8 years ago and it still goes well
The main gripe with mine is it is not moisture proof inside. Spilt or defrosted liquids seem to seep through joins in the plastic.
The shop that replaced the control panel had seen a quite a few do it and they charged me a small amount to thoroughly clean around the inside when they had it apart. I have a CF50 and that does not do it.
Its still a good fridge, but I would invest in some of that cloth that will soak up liquids. It has small piece of foam under that square access hatch at the bottom. Give them a clean regularly. Keep any fish or bait in its own airtight container.
It takes up a lot of floor space but its the easiest fridge to find things in.
About 8-9 brands use the Danfoss BD50 compressor including smaller Waecos/Dometic.
The main gripe with mine is it is not moisture proof inside. Spilt or defrosted liquids seem to seep through joins in the plastic.
The shop that replaced the control panel had seen a quite a few do it and they charged me a small amount to thoroughly clean around the inside when they had it apart. I have a CF50 and that does not do it.
Its still a good fridge, but I would invest in some of that cloth that will soak up liquids. It has small piece of foam under that square access hatch at the bottom. Give them a clean regularly. Keep any fish or bait in its own airtight container.
It takes up a lot of floor space but its the easiest fridge to find things in.
About 8-9 brands use the Danfoss BD50 compressor including smaller Waecos/Dometic.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
This thing is huge! 30 beers in one of the 4 compartments
Is this a problem or a good thing? LOL
Nice you have so many different varieties.
Nice looking fridge though and very good price.
Did you measure the amp draw running? Not critical, just curious.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Ok, so after all said and done this made the most "cents" to me anyone??
Whynter FM-45G 45-Quart Portable Refrigerator
Whynter FM-45G 45-Quart Portable Refrigerator
- Thread starter
- #30
Based on the design and construction I believe it is an older unit, but I guess that's why it's so cheap. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep an eye for food leaks but Im planning to keep everything in individual containers. What is under the access panel? Perhaps I could tape up the joints.
- Thread starter
- #31
The size is great, not a problem. I reviewed the measurements before I purchased it, and I was looking for >50L but as low as possible to fit under my sleeping platform. This unit and the ARB 63 are the only ones I found under 18" high.
Im coming from a Yeti Tundra 65 (54L) and the external dimensions are not much larger, but the interior capacity is nearly 50% greater.
I have not had a chance to measure amp draw but I will once I install it in the truck and I'll post my findings here.
I use a few large ziplock bags for food as well. They take up the unused room between containers. Under the panel is a piece of foam about 1/4 inch thick. If its there to soak up liquid it is totally useless. There is nothing else there from memory.
The latches that hold the lid closed are bit weak if you get inexperienced people trying to close the lid with them in the way. They break but only cost $12 from the camping store.
For $400 odd dollars its still a bargain. I think they may have been more than double that a few years back.
Does this one need a separate 12/24v power supply for use in the house, or can you plug it straight into the wall?
They work a lot better with the factory cover and it keeps them looking good if you ever want to sell.
- Thread starter
- #33
Ive seen some billet latches and hinges on eBay from an Australian seller, I assumed these were a weak point. If they break I'll try those.
My unit is the CF-80US which came with 12V and 110V USA plugs.
Although the source distribution center is only 45mi from me, the cooler arrived with slight cosmetic damage to the corner from being dropped. The plastic has a stress mark and a slight bend in the metal. I ended up getting the unit well under $400 and with an Amazon gift card it was closer to mid $200s for me. At this point I dont care what happens to it cosmetically and Im not going to sell it. Thanks for all the tips.
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- Thread starter
- #34
The Dometic CF-80 is connected to AC/110V, ambient temperature is 70F is, the cooler is set to 38F. Battery monitor is set to Low. The cooler is roughly 30% full of beers and water.
Im using a Z-Wave switch that has a built-in wattage meter, and the data is logged in my zwave controller every time there's a substantial change in power consumption.
Cooler is turned on but idling (no compressor running) and it's drawing ~2.3 watts/.021amps.
When the compressor kicks on at full throttle it's drawing a max ~59watts/.55amps. This is roughly 5.5amps 12V DC.
It appears to run less than 15min an hour, so my rough estimate is 1.375Ah, which sounds inline with all the other name brand coolers Ive researched. Colorado climate at altitude in the summer (my primary use case) is pretty mild, so Im betting this cooler will average less than 1.5Ah.
If any of these calculations dont make sense feel free to correct me!
Im using a Z-Wave switch that has a built-in wattage meter, and the data is logged in my zwave controller every time there's a substantial change in power consumption.
Cooler is turned on but idling (no compressor running) and it's drawing ~2.3 watts/.021amps.
When the compressor kicks on at full throttle it's drawing a max ~59watts/.55amps. This is roughly 5.5amps 12V DC.
It appears to run less than 15min an hour, so my rough estimate is 1.375Ah, which sounds inline with all the other name brand coolers Ive researched. Colorado climate at altitude in the summer (my primary use case) is pretty mild, so Im betting this cooler will average less than 1.5Ah.
If any of these calculations dont make sense feel free to correct me!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Good info. I'm just kind of curious mainly because I have 2 fridges, 1 draws 2.7 amps (on 12 v) when running and the other draws 5 amps. Duty cycle is about 1/3. Just wondering what the range is out there, and the Amazon add said something about 7 amps.
Guys, FWIW, I've had my CF 80 for 3 years now and the thing is fantastic. Here in Venezuela we have so much food shortages that for the past 2 years my CF 80 has lived inside my apartment filled up to the top with food. Sometimes as a freezer and most of the time as a spare refrigerator (cool box if you will).
I will highly recommend it!
During trips it does take space to carry but you can simply forget about buying ice. Everything is very close to the displayed temp even on sunny days. Its one of those things I'd buy again!
I will highly recommend it!
During trips it does take space to carry but you can simply forget about buying ice. Everything is very close to the displayed temp even on sunny days. Its one of those things I'd buy again!
Some power usage is quoted as the average amp draw, other is quoted as how much it is using when its running. This why you get high and low figures. I'm sure someone who knows electrics could explain it better.
The Waeco/Dometic fridges usually need about 7-8 amps to start the compressor and 6amps to keep it running.
Ive seen some billet latches and hinges on eBay from an Australian seller, I assumed these were a weak point. If they break I'll try those.
My unit is the CF-80US which came with 12V and 110V USA plugs.
Although the source distribution center is only 45mi from me, the cooler arrived with slight cosmetic damage to the corner from being dropped. The plastic has a stress mark and a slight bend in the metal. I ended up getting the unit well under $400 and with an Amazon gift card it was closer to mid $200s for me. At this point I dont care what happens to it cosmetically and Im not going to sell it. Thanks for all the tips.
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That's a bargain. Mine only runs on 12/24v and needs a transformer for 240v. It must be something they have a upgraded. That's a great price for a tough old fridge. Cool colours. Australia only gets them in 2 shades of grey. Even if you break a latch on a trip, one will keep it cool. But some weight on the lid near the broken latch will help.
hoser
SILVER Star
Just FYI, the DanFoss/Secop compressors (probably as well as most others) can be clocked from 2000 rpm to 3500 rpm. It's a balance between performance and efficiency. Some of the Domestic fridges have a "Turbo" button that temporarily kicks up the compressor from 2500 up to 3500rpm until it reaches it's desired temperature. Great feature!
- Thread starter
- #40
According to the manual, the CF80 has an automatic turbo mode. I've noticed varying compressor sounds (speeds) and wattage draws (52-69) so I'm guessing it's what you're describing here. I don't believe there's a manual turbo mode on mine.
