Doing front brake job ....parts check
- Thread starter Samuraj
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One thing that seems to be conspicuously missing from the 200s forum is mention of front bearing maintenance or replacement. Is anyone greasing or replacing front hub bearings with break jobs?
Great question and would explain the lack of posts. My truck came with fresh brakes so I’ve not yet had a need to investigate. I had assumed they were the same setup
As the 100.
StopTech 120.44162CRY Brake Rotor *This is the front rotor*
I did both front and back's with StopTech and very satisfied with the braking power. My brake pads came with pins and springs, so not sure if you'd need to buy them. This might be especially true if you're buying TRD pads.
I did both front and back's with StopTech and very satisfied with the braking power. My brake pads came with pins and springs, so not sure if you'd need to buy them. This might be especially true if you're buying TRD pads.
Here's the diagram with front brake parts. To confirm the TRD part number, just type it in to Google.
parts.camelbacktoyota.com
Front Brakes for 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser | Camelback Toyota Parts
parts.camelbacktoyota.com
I replaced hubs when I did my front brakes around 210k miles. Since it uses the same parts as tundra Front hubs there is a thriving and pretty inexpensive aftermarket. It’s four more bolts per side plus the axle nut
re pads. I run a plus plus diameter 35” tire and use semi metallic pads. Dusty and effective.
Grab a tube of caliper lube. I like the permatex stuff.
I put copper anti seize on the hub surfaces to prevent rust together. Then ended up with powder coated rotors which should also prevent that. Still it isn’t expensive insurance and might someday help a field repair.
A lot of people,even shops overlook this due to inexperience or laziness. I do stock pads and rotors since rotors are so cheap. I usually just clean the springs and pins (wet & dry sandpaper the pins) and call it good...
bloc
SILVER Star
In Chicago or other salty states, yes, anti-seize in the hub face.
In places without rust.. not needed and only makes a mess.
In places without rust.. not needed and only makes a mess.
Brake cleaner to clean off the rotor surface prior to installation.
I guess I'm curious where you are applying said lube. These are not floating calipers, so no pins to slide on. Correct? What am I missing?
When I did mine a few weeks ago there were pins front and back. Small unthreaded pins in front and large threaded pins in back. Since the PO only drove it 3k a year in a cold state, the pins ended up getting really stuck and I broke one in the front and stripped one in the back, so make sure you lubricate them at the very least. I had to use a special socket for stripped nuts to get the rear pin out and had to use a punch to get the broken front pin out.
As far as part # for pins and springs go, I just went into autozone and asked for them. When I told them LX570 they had trouble finding the part but when they looked up same year Land Cruiser there were multiple options. The pins came with replacement springs. You can see the spring and pins for front in bottom right of photo. I think it was like 5 bucks from autozone for 2 pins and 2 springs direct fit for 200 series.
The front "pins" are just there to hold the pads in the calipers, they don't move once installed. They should get anti-sieze on them.
REAR brake calipers are floating, so they need to slide on pins as the pads wear. Yup, they should get greased. I use good 'ol Syl-Glyde.
Those front pins look bone dry and caked with mud/crud to me. Some Kroil, a wire brush, and maybe a little bit of heat, they probably would have slid right out. Tapping on the inside end with a brass drift also really helps, just be careful not to mushroom the ends.
Gotcha. I misunderstood what you said and thought you said no pins.
Also, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I had none of those things you listed so I just punched it out and used a special socket. I tried wiggling it in the center to shake off the mud and loosen it but that only worked on one side.
And you’re definitely right about the mud, most of which have fallen off by now since they closed down the trail by my house.
Per the Toyota service manual also should replace the bolts that hold the calipers on. I had my parts department look them up. I just did my front and rear pads bolts and rotors this winter. Used OEM rotors and the stop tech pads below are the front (came with pins and springs) since I tow a lot and wanted longer wear and more bite.Rotors ; need part #
padsTR09-0C111 (TRD)
Pins : 90240-06024
Springs : 04947-60149
2014 LX 570
Front only , can you please give me OK ?
StopTech 309.13030 Street Performance Front Brake Pad Amazon product ASIN B004I9I9RK
Take a look at the caliper piston seals just to make sure they aren't worn/torn. Probably still fine on 2014, but I had one on my 08 LC that needed some attention. They are pretty cheap, IIRC, so you might want to have some on hand just in case, so you can it done in one shot. VS. having to come back a week or two later when the parts arrive and guess what - - you get to basically do the whole job again to replace the seal.
HTH.
HTH.
