Doible flare brake lines and i still have leaks

[camcruiser13]

use the wrenches like in the pic of posers and tighten the s*** out of them. remember the wrenches are little so its not putting as much force as a longer bigger wrench would imho

 

[chubot]

That is fine; I just wanted to know that you were working on 10x1.0 fittings and not something else...

So the line/fitting that is leaking, can you turn the b-nut on the line any more?

Are you using flare nut wrenches?

(generic photo, I am not insinuating using ASE wrenches on metric fittings)

.

I don't have any metric flare nut wrenches. But I do have them as tight as they'll go and they are 10mm. I thought I would replace that one line that's giving me the problem with a new premade NAPA line. I'm now wondering when I fix the leaking line if the others will leak too.

 

[1973Guppie]

ooohh

the student has now become the teacher

You think Yoda stops teaching, just because his student does not want to hear? A teacher Yoda is. Yoda teaches like drunkards drink, like killers kill.

 

[1973Guppie]

I actually don't like using the brake line wrenches, I use a standard 10mm wrench, for whatever reason I can always get a better grip on the line using a standard wrench. I do have some cheapo brake line wrenches so maybe that is the problem.

Noah

 

[brooklyn]

I used this outfit for my fittings - were better quality than what I was getting at AZone.

FedHill Brake Line - Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings


I bought my flaring kit from Sears and it worked well for me.

 

[chubot]

That is fine; I just wanted to know that you were working on 10x1.0 fittings and not something else...

So the line/fitting that is leaking, can you turn the b-nut on the line any more?

Are you using flare nut wrenches?

(generic photo, I am not insinuating using ASE wrenches on metric fittings)

.

I don't have any metric flare nut wrenches and I believe I have it tight enough. I tightened The end that connects to the soft line so tight that it started to twist inside the bracket. I'll go pick up some metric flare wrenches this weekend.

 

[chubot]

one note on flaring, I was told by a friend that when cutting the line before you make the flare, use an angle grinder and NOT the little cutting wheel. The little cutting wheel will work harden the metal material and make it harder to get a good flare. I always now cut with a grinder and then flare the tube and it makes a big difference. My guess is that you are just not getting a good flare. I usually have to try 2 or 3 times to get a good flare.

HTH, Noah

Well I definitely wasn't getting a good flare with tool I have because it kept rolling off to one side. That's when I bought the pre-flared lines from NAPA. The one giving me the trouble is from NAPA. There's a good YouTube video on double flaring but I can't seem to get those same results.

 

[chubot]

Well I feel like a real tool bag, the flare nut I thought was leaking was fine, it was the one that goes into the top of the junction block. It was dripping down and making it look like the culprit. I got it nice and tight and a few more started to leak, but it was just a matter of tightening them down a little more. I bled them down and I'm still not getting a firm pedal. So I guess I'll check the master next. Thanks for all the help, I would've thought something was wrong having to tighten them down so much.