Does my 200 land cruiser drive shaft have grease zerks?

[KLF]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the front diff essentially bolted to the frame and doesn't move with the suspension? So except for minor flexing at the bushings, the length of the front shaft doesn't really change?

Maybe I'm simplifying it too much.

 

[bloc]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the front diff essentially bolted to the frame and doesn't move with the suspension? So except for minor flexing at the bushings, the length of the front shaft doesn't really change?

Maybe I'm simplifying it too much.

You are correct, the only real movement would be any allowed by the transfer case and diff mounts. The rear shaft is the one I'd be worried about an overfilled slide yoke causing problems during suspension compression.

I'd not brother pulling front if it's operating ok. It will let you know if being dry caused and issue or not.

Not complex at all, just takes patience. The key is to stop if it does not compress back. Also keep in mind, pumping and waiting is only needed if a slide yoke has been neglected (dry). If yoke has be service by the book, we only need add a few pumps and shaft will start to extend. In dry shafts that need a lot of grease, some like to drive over curb or around the block while grease zerk out if they pump a lot into. I've only found necessary to remove zeak. But, when I'm doing a rig with AHC system. I lube while in "H", makes get under easy. I then remove zerks and drop to low.

I've not looked at this procedure "Stop when extends" in 200 series FSM. The 100 series FSM uses the standard statement which is how any typical lube job is done. "Add until old grease flows out", just like we do on spiders and the old serviceable ball joint, UCA, LCA and steering idlers, etc..

Good point about only doing all of that to a dry shaft.. I still think it's possible to overfill it.

And joints can get notchy long before real failure.. like I said pulling the front is low on my priority list but it will get done. Partly just for curiosity. Believe me when I say I thought it was "dry".. it took a LOT of grease. and it was long ago enough that I can't specifically remember, but I seem to think no old grease came out in front of the new stuff..

From the 01/2012-on 2013 200 TIS FSM. The page before this just says "(a) Fill each of the grease fitting holes of the propeller shaft with MP grease."

 

[grinchy]

I decided today that some of the noise I have isn't tire noise.

It was many tries to pull the car forward and back 2" to get each zerk where my fixed pipe grease gun could get to them. I never did get the front shaft going into the center diff u joint, just no angle with the frame cross member there, I'll have to buy a flexible hose end.

My rig has a lot of miles and I'm pretty sure this service hadn't been done much. It took many pumps (5-8) even to get grease to exit the u-joints.

I put 15 pumps in each slip joint. Never saw movement and didn't see any grease come out. Wasn't hard to pump either. Now I'm worried I overfilled. But I'm also sure they were completely dry . . . didn't pull the zerks . . . did drive a couple miles.

Much much less feedback noise from the driveline. Smoother on the road.

Figure the remaining hum is is the Duratracs.

 

[bloc]

To make adjusting the front shaft to access the zerks MUCH easier:

Chock rear wheel and apply parking brake. Put transmission in neutral.
Make sure center diff isn’t locked.
Jack up one front lower a-arm to make the tire barely clear the ground. I put the jack under the arm as far out to the side as I can without the tire contacting the jack.

This will allow you to adjust the front shaft rotation by just turning the tire that is in the air.

To increase room under the truck you can put ramps under a front and rear tire on opposite sides of the truck. Then you’ll jack up the front arm that is still on the ground. This buys you a few more inches of clearance.

 

[KLF]

I think this is more about having just the right kind of nozzle on your grease gun. I had my truck up on 4 tall stands this summer, trans in N, e-brake released so I could easily spin the drive shafts from underneath. No dice on that zerk on the front shaft right by the transfer. Couldn't get on it.

I've since bought a couple of adapters, I'm gonna try again soon.

 

[bloc]

My grease gun is a straight nozzle type with full-size tube. And it BARELY fits the rear zerk. If it were a quarter inch longer or shorter I don’t think it would. Also the zerk needs to be at an exact angle.

I should probably get under there and take a picture. Even doing it every 5k I struggle to remember the exact orientation of everything and have to fiddle with it a bit at first.

 

[2001LC]

After lubing a few 200 series, I found I could get the difficult fronts propeller shaft lube points at one time. That is to say, without turning the propeller shaft repeatedly.
See Scored 2011 LC W/79K OMG CLEAN (2012 missing link) starting on post #20.

 

[NYC570]

My grease gun has a flexible hose. To get to the front zerk I move the truck so that the zerk points to the left side (driver side), angled a bit down. This allows enough space to grease the zerk. You just have to be careful with the exhaust pipe if you've had the truck on for some time because it'll be hot.

 

[RTaylor]

My grease gun has a flexible hose. To get to the front zerk I move the truck so that the zerk points to the left side (driver side), angled a bit down. This allows enough space to grease the zerk. You just have to be careful with the exhaust pipe if you've had the truck on for some time because it'll be hot.

My grease gun has a flexible hose and I was able to get to all 6 today too, without jacks or ramps. The front spider was very tight, as mentioned. I had a hard time with the rear spider of the front shaft...TIP: best to have the zerk facing opposite of the ground and the flexible will come in from the top.

I’ve got 63k and this is the first time I’ve done this myself, including the 60k just a short while ago. I’ve had all regular maintenance done at the dealer. My spiders needed 6-10 pumps to fill up. I did 4 pumps in each slip but never saw the shaft move (I didn’t want to overdo it). Pretty sure the dealer hasn’t been regularly greasing

 

[Overland Tailor]

There will be a lot of disagreement here, but...

There are so many complaints of driveline clunk on the 80 and 100 series (Not sure yet on the 200) and many are caused by lack of / or no service ever to the prop shafts.

For my 80 Series and wife's old 100 Series - Personally, I feel that just pumping grease into these is not the proper way to service them. Yes, it's better than nothing, but to really understand the slips and how these work, they need to come off for service...

Mine on the 80 are fully removed, marking them prior at the T-Case and diff and also on the slip joint to ensure proper reassembly. Then they are cleaned and regreased off the truck to ensure proper filling and not overfilling of the slip joint which causes problems with some driveline clunk on these older trucks.

I do this at every oil change and I've never had issues with the driveline. Again, not sure of the 200 how this will work out, but I'll probably do it on this truck as well.

Just passing some info that I've had success with on the older trucks. Hopeful that this might help us with the 200 series.


Best regards,

John-

 

[KLF]

I have to agree with @Overland Tailor above ^^^

I always removed at least one end of both driveshafts on my old mini-truck, carefully pulled apart the slipjoint, pumped grease directly onto the splines, then reassembled. That truck has over 250K on it now, original U-joints. No clunks. I used Green Grease (Green Grease | The Best Grease Money Can Buy!) on those driveshafts exclusively, very waterproof, very thick.

I'm gonna try to do this in the next few days, while I'm also changing the diff and transfer case fluids.

 

[Overland Tailor]

I have to agree with @Overland Tailor above ^^^

I always removed at least one end of both driveshafts on my old mini-truck, carefully pulled apart the slipjoint, pumped grease directly onto the splines, then reassembled. That truck has over 250K on it now, original U-joints. No clunks. I used Green Grease (Green Grease | The Best Grease Money Can Buy!) on those driveshafts exclusively, very waterproof, very thick.

I'm gonna try to do this in the next few days, while I'm also changing the diff and transfer case fluids.

Thats a great way to get them done right without having to remove them completely.

@beno hit the nail on the head when he said the prop shafts are one of the most under serviced part on these trucks....

 

[KLF]

OK, so I greased everything today, since I had the truck up on stands again to do all the gear lubes. Unbolted the rear shaft from the rear diff, and if you remove the grease zerk to break the vacuum you can slide the shaft apart to expose about an inch of the splines, which got a liberal coat of grease. Put everything back together, did the U-joints. Pumped until I got fresh grease oozing out everywhere.

Front shaft was more of a challenge. I found it's easier if you have that fore-aft brace removed, the one that is under the transmission. It's only 4 bolts, easy to pop off with the cordless impact. I think the only way to get the shaft apart would be to actually remove the crossmember at the transfer, which would involve a jack to hold it up. I didn't have the time to go that far, so I squirted about 20 pumps into the slip-joint, then took the zerk out to allow any built up pressure to release. The U-joint at the rear end of this shaft was very dry, so it's a good thing I persevered this time.

Truck rides sooo much better!



OK, actually I can't tell any difference.

 

[RTaylor]

I’ve driven about 500 miles since I greased up and my driveline is smoother. Less vibes in steering wheel and seat bottom. And maybe a full 1-1.5 mpg better on the highway. Nice suprises!

 

[blatant]

What grease nozzle are you guys using? I have a full size on flexible that is a piece of cake on the 100 but on the 200, I wasn't able to get all the zerks, in particular the front, I couldn't even get it on the front U of the rear? Anyone using one that makes it way easy?

 

[95Fantasma80]

Red n tacky, or any high quality NLGI #2 lithium grease is acceptable for the u joints.

Technically a high-moly grease is better for the slip yokes.. but I’d bet money no one has had a failure from using regular lithium grease on that part too.

For those that don’t know, It is EXTREMELY important that you not put too much grease into the slip yoke. Filling this area completely with grease prevents the driveshaft from shortening with normal suspension movement. This can quickly destroy your transfer case output shaft bearings and even diff pinion bearings. Bad news.

A couple good pumps will put grease into the slip area then centrifugal force will sling it into the splines where it will do it’s job.

Isn't this highly debatle? on the 100 series section and respected indy shops seem to have split opinions. 200 series and still this mysterious overfill of the zerks continues...

 

[bloc]

Isn't this highly debatle? on the 100 series section and respected indy shops seem to have split opinions. 200 series and still this mysterious overfill of the zerks continues...

Grease isn’t compressible and the slip yoke and seal prevent it being able to escape quickly enough if the suspension is compressed aggressively.

Centripetal force is also remarkably effective at getting grease to the important parts of the slip yoke.

I’d amend my statement and say more than “a couple” pumps are needed.. I now use 5-8 usually, but the point stands. A slip yoke totally full of grease isn’t necessary and may put extreme forces on the ujoints, shaft, and bearings on each end.

 

[Yossarian]

What grease nozzle are you guys using? I have a full size on flexible that is a piece of cake on the 100 but on the 200, I wasn't able to get all the zerks, in particular the front, I couldn't even get it on the front U of the rear? Anyone using one that makes it way easy?

Multi-angle replacement fitting for the end of your grease gun hose. I found at some generic auto parts store for less than $10.

 

[DecreedIt]

Anyone have videos of this for us dummies? Pretty sure mine have never been done (mall cruiser, 168k). Past time to get it done.

 

[Riaz]

Hi guys,
I had a 100 in the past and I was able to grease it's DS. Does the 200 have grease zerks? The dealer is telling me that I have to remove the DS to grease it. Does this sound right? It's only an hour of labor so I'm not too concerned but $100 saved is $100 earned!

All up 6 grease zerks.