Does my 200 land cruiser drive shaft have grease zerks?

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Hi guys,
I had a 100 in the past and I was able to grease it's DS. Does the 200 have grease zerks? The dealer is telling me that I have to remove the DS to grease it. Does this sound right? It's only an hour of labor so I'm not too concerned but $100 saved is $100 earned!
 
Dealers are morons. They think you drive a highlander.
 
Thanks guys.
Found them, one on the front and one on the rear. Done!
 
Don't forget the front shaft.
 
One for each spider and one for each shaft, six total?

Front spider is a PITA.
 
Thanks
 
I can't speak for anyone else but I use Lucas Red n tacky #2 grease. I used it for 14 years on my 80 series with no issues and have carried over on the 200 series.

Red "N" Tacky Grease

The front shaft is indeed a PITA to get to.
 
Red n tacky, or any high quality NLGI #2 lithium grease is acceptable for the u joints.

Technically a high-moly grease is better for the slip yokes.. but I’d bet money no one has had a failure from using regular lithium grease on that part too.

For those that don’t know, It is EXTREMELY important that you not put too much grease into the slip yoke. Filling this area completely with grease prevents the driveshaft from shortening with normal suspension movement. This can quickly destroy your transfer case output shaft bearings and even diff pinion bearings. Bad news.

A couple good pumps will put grease into the slip area then centrifugal force will sling it into the splines where it will do it’s job.
 
I use HS (High Speed) grease, which all that say wheel bearing are.

To keep it simple, I just use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, lubes & oils.

I usually find the slide yokes do well with the same #2 grease. Although when propeller shaft clunk/thunk is issue and slide yoke seal(s) is really tight, I do find some #1 moly fortified can loosen them up nicely. I then come back with just the #2 wheel bearing grease over time.
 
Thank you all I used valvoline bearing grease on my 2000 landcruiser 100 series which had 510000km on the clock buy previous owner had no issues now 200 series was not sure still under warranty just had a 75km service but the Toyota dealership never grease the drive shaft I had a look the greasing point covered in dust.
 
For the 200 series, Toyota lengthen the mileage interval for PM lubing, except under severe driving condition. IMHO they did this to lower published cost of ownership. Also, many mechanics even at Toyota/Lexus Dealers don't know or think about we've the six lube points, as most vehicles today are sealed and not lubed. Personally I do every ~5K miles, daily if in sand or deep water.

Lubing spiders, we just keep pumping in grease until old grease comes out and new seen passing seals. Lubing slide yoke is same principle, but great care must be taken. Reason is, seals are so tight and have an inner lip pointing inward. Grease and air becomes trapped pressing on inner seal making even tighter, so one can easily over pressurize the cavity. This extends the slid yoke putting excess pressure on transfer case and differential. Greasing with all four wheels on the ground (AHC in N or L) keeps a neutral stance. This helps insure we've not too much grease, which may over pressurizing while driving. Temporarily removing grease zerk after lube job, helps avoid condition of too much grease in yoke.

Toyota changed recommendation from lube slide yoke untitl grease passes seals. Which is typically how we lube and grease zerk. To pump in grease until first sign of extension of slide yoke.

I've a little procedure I've developed for lubing slide yokes, which are dry (not regularly lubed). After lubing spiders, I take a little of the spent grease and rub on slide yoke seals (prime). I pump grease in slide yoke until I see it start to extend 3 to 5mm, and rub on more grease. I then stop and wait for it to compress back that 3 to 5mm. Then give another pump of grease until it extends again, and then wait for compression again. I keep repeating until grease either passes seal, or it stops compressing. I then remove grease zerk momentarily to relieve pressure. I repeat at next 5K miles PM if no grease passed seal(s) at last PM, otherwise I just give 3 to 5 pumps of grease each PM thereafter.
 
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Thanks for the advice, I plan on doing this task for the first this weekend.
 
FWIW: The forward propeller shaft front grease point is hard to get to. This lends itself to not being greased. So be sure to check under there for old spend grease slung around, after someone lubes for you!
 
When I did mine the front shaft clearly hadn't been greased in a long time. It took way more grease than the rear.. almost to the point of it "feeling" dry. Somewhere on my list of things to do is pull the front shaft and check the health of those joints.. but with the front shaft being so straight and the joints not doing much flexing I think it can go quite a while even if they aren't in perfect shape.

Also as to the above advice on greasing slip yokes.. seems somewhat complex and leaves room for people to fill the void space. Even if they remove the zerk at static ride height to relieve pressure, the shaft might bind when the suspension compresses during normal driving once the zerk is back in place and the grease can only escape past the seal.

Personally, I don't want to see the slip yoke extend at all when I'm adding grease. Centrifugal force from the shaft spinning will cause any amount of newly added grease to flow out the splines from the zerk end to the seal, so "a few pumps" is what has been added by many to toyota slip yokes for decades without issue.. and is what I'll keep doing/recommending.

Edit: I dug into the FSM. "Stop filling the grease fitting hole on the middle portion of the propeller shaft one the sliding portion starts extending"

So the factory procedure is somewhere in the middle.
 
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When I did mine the front shaft clearly hadn't been greased in a long time. It took way more grease than the rear.. almost to the point of it "feeling" dry. Somewhere on my list of things to do is pull the front shaft and check the health of those joints.. but with the front shaft being so straight and the joints not doing much flexing I think it can go quite a while even if they aren't in perfect shape.

Also as to the above advice on greasing slip yokes.. seems somewhat complex and leaves room for people to fill the void space. Even if they remove the zerk at static ride height to relieve pressure, the shaft might bind when the suspension compresses during normal driving once the zerk is back in place and the grease can only escape past the seal.

Personally, I don't want to see the slip yoke extend at all when I'm adding grease. Centrifugal force from the shaft spinning will cause any amount of newly added grease to flow out the splines from the zerk end to the seal, so "a few pumps" is what has been added by many to toyota slip yokes for decades without issue.. and is what I'll keep doing/recommending.

Edit: I dug into the FSM. "Stop filling the grease fitting hole on the middle portion of the propeller shaft one the sliding portion starts extending"

So the factory procedure is somewhere in the middle.
I'd not brother pulling front if it's operating ok. It will let you know if being dry caused and issue or not.

Not complex at all, just takes patience. The key is to stop if it does not compress back. Also keep in mind, pumping and waiting is only needed if a slide yoke has been neglected (dry). If yoke has be service by the book, we only need add a few pumps and shaft will start to extend. In dry shafts that need a lot of grease, some like to drive over curb or around the block while grease zerk out if they pump a lot into. I've only found necessary to remove zeak. But, when I'm doing a rig with AHC system. I lube while in "H", makes get under easy. I then remove zerks and drop to low.

I've not looked at this procedure "Stop when extends" in 200 series FSM. The 100 series FSM uses the standard statement which is how any typical lube job is done. "Add until old grease flows out", just like we do on spiders and the old serviceable ball joint, UCA, LCA and steering idlers, etc..

This is old recommendation for 100 series. Toyota changed recommendation to: Pump in grease until first sign of extension of slide yoke.
007.JPG
propeller shaff FSM LC.jpg
 
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