Does a shock push the axle down?

[bulldog-yota]

A quick suggestion for measuring how much shock travel is used:

Remove the OME shock from the vehicle and extend it fully, then mark with a sharpie around the shock body where the OME cover is. Then compress fully and do the same. Now when the suspension is fully flexed you can see how much of the shock travel you are actually using. Keep in mind that jumping dunes will most probably cause the bumpstops to compress further and also the shock bushings tend to compress under load as well.

Just an idea. AS this allows you to compare the use of your current shock to whatever shock you want to use. You might find that you can fit longer shocks as you still have compression room left. Obviously the rest fo the suspension needs to be able to effectively use it though.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

John, you are taking this the wrong way. I just don't like it when someone makes a statement on a modification that is not right.

And this is probaly the whole reason this thread got a start, because I feel the same way, and the whole discussion has come from John originally posting about the shock and its differences in spec.

Your first post Christo is a great explanation.

Nolen just confused the issue a little, but the exception always proves the rule

As for fitting longer shocks, allow 30mm on a cruiser for bump stop crush, or you will damage the shock. [30mm or 1 1/4" from when diff compresses bump stop]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100
Forget the 100 Slee. I've simply swapped from a shorter shock to a longer shock on the same rig.

So, are you telling me that an L-shock vs a non-L shock on an 80 offers little difference off road too? Had I of been posting this same thing about the change on my 80 from an E to an L would I have been slammed about the merits of the change? (Running 35's and 3" lift)


John, your thread was picked up on, because you thought you were doing something new, but you werent, and you posted about it, without offering any informnation that you would consider 'technical" about it.

I asked you some questions, and it soon became obvious you didnt know the technical side, so i explained the difference between the 2 for you. This took some explaining though, because you just didnt get it, and still dont it would seem.

If you had the same attitude when you posted about your 80, the result would be the same.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

That is not fair to the forum members who are looking at how to improve their trucks.

John, that is exactly how Christo and I feel about your innaccurate information, thats why this thread started, because you are creating false misleading posts, which are unfair to the others who dont know any better.

Surely you must be understanding this by now, its not about the mod itself, but about the lack of information to support it, apart from you and your wide think its better.

 

[bull]

As for fitting longer shocks, allow 30mm on a cruiser for bump stop crush, or you will damage the shock. [30mm or 1 1/4" from when diff compresses bump stop]

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "allow"? Do you mean only drop the bump stop 30mm with the longer shock?

 

[tabraha]

Perhaps Darren means keep 30mm of compression available in the shock once the axle is fully compressed to the bumpstop. In a high energy (jumping/ bottoming) situation the bumpstops will compress more under the added pressure; without the extra buffer ka-blam! the shock.

Just speculation. Most of this thread is way over my head. ;p

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "allow"? Do you mean only drop the bump stop 30mm?

When measuring up a cruiser for longer shocks, you need to allow an extra 30mm [11/4"] in compressed length from the measurement you get when the diff is hitting on the bump stops on each side with the weight of the vehicle on them. [because this is how far the bump stops will squash]

 

[bull]

When measuring up a cruiser for longer shocks, you need to allow an extra 30mm [11/4"] in compressed length from the measurement you get when the diff is hitting on the bump stops on each side with the weight of the vehicle on them. [because this is how far the bump stops will squash]

I see said the blind man

 

[bull]

So I couldn't get it to rest on the bump stop at all not even close! So here are the numbers with how it sits in the pictures. Maybe Slee can get it to go further.


Distance from bump stop to axle 4 1/2 inches

Shock length from center of shock eye to base of top shock mount 20 inches

Distance from rear passenger tire to top of wheel well 4 3/4 inches.

 

[bull]

 

[bull]

 

[bull]

 

[Greg B]

Bull,
Maybe drive up the ramp with one of the front wheels. That may put more of the weight of the 100 on the rear axle and compress the rear spring more. Is your rear tire rubbing in any of those pics?

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

Bull,
Maybe drive up the ramp with one of the front wheels. That may put more of the weight of the 100 on the rear axle and compress the rear spring more. Is your rear tire rubbing in any of those pics?

DONT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

until you get the bump stop length sorted, if you have longer shocks than standard OME set up, or you may damage the shock by compressing it, if you havent already.

The only way to do it accurately is remove the shocks, and springs, jack the diff up to the bump stops so the car is supported by the bump stops on the diff, then measure the distance from the mount to the centre of the bottom mount, and your shocker needs to be 30mm shorter than that measurement when fully compressed.

If the shock isnt 30mm shorter than that measurement, you need to space the bump stop until it is.

A shock as pin and eye standard measurement procedure is to measure from the seat of the washer on the shaft [first washer on] to the centre of the eye.

 

[bull]

DONT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

until you get the bump stop length sorted, if you have longer shocks than standard OME set up, or you may damage the shock by compressing it, if you havent already.

The only way to do it accurately is remove the shocks, and springs, jack the diff up to the bump stops so the car is supported by the bump stops on the diff, then measure the distance from the mount to the centre of the bottom mount, and your shocker needs to be 30mm shorter than that measurement when fully compressed.

If the shock isnt 30mm shorter than that measurement, you need to space the bump stop until it is.

A shock as pin and eye standard measurement procedure is to measure from the seat of the washer on the shaft [first washer on] to the centre of the eye.

The shock still has 5" of compression in it before it bottoms out correct? I measured 20" from center eye on the bottom to the lower part of the top mount of the shock pin.

74L compressed is 15.1" I believe.


Since I can't get exact numbers fully compressed can Slee try next time he has a rear apart on a 100 series? Or wait until I add my trim packer this weekend. I also wonder if I can get it to hit the bumpstop by disconnecting the sway bar..

Doing crude math...from measurements today says its really close to bottoming out the shock at full compression.

Distance from bump stop to axle 4 1/2 inches + the 1 1/4 for bumpstop crush == 5 3/4"

Shock length from center of shock eye to base of top shock mount 20 inches == 5" left until full compression in shock.

Distance from rear passenger tire to top of wheel well 4 3/4 inches.


From my set up and crude math does this mean the 315 could possibly bottom out before the bumpstop and shock will?


***please note these numbers are not exact..

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

The shock still has 5" of compression in it before it bottoms out correct? I measured 20" from center eye on the bottom to the lower part of the top mount of the shock pin.

74L compressed is 15.1" I believe.


Since I can't get exact numbers fully compressed can Slee try next time he has a rear apart on a 100 series? Or wait until I add my trim packer this weekend. I also wonder if I can get it to hit the bumpstop by disconnecting the sway bar..

Doing crude math...from measurements today says its really close to bottoming out the shock at full compression.

Distance from bump stop to axle 4 1/2 inches + the 1 1/4 for bumpstop crush == 5 3/4"

Shock length from center of shock eye to base of top shock mount 20 inches == 5" left until full compression in shock.

Distance from rear passenger tire to top of wheel well 4 3/4 inches.


From my set up and crude math does this mean the 315 could possibly bottom out before the bumpstop and shock will?


***please note these numbers are not exact..

Like the *** note

The shock has a rubber and washer/locator in that measurment also Bull, so you need to add another 25mm -30mm [1-1 1/4"] to your shock length from the washer seat location on the shaft to be accurate for collapsed length.

Now you need to do a 10mm [3/8"] body lift [with original bolts will work] or put a bump stop spacer in and lose some travel for the 315's to fit into the fender properly. [or wider offset rims]

Generally, for the weight and set up of the vehicle, you should have 1-2" of bump stop clearance on opposing corners when ramped up, because the vehicle is static, so has no momentum built up to work the spring to the bump stop.

If your truck is flexed and has 2" to the bump stop parked, you are close to the correct spring rate you would require for the weight of the car at the time its ramped.

These details are for backed up, where it puts weight on the front, the front will be more like 3-4" away from the bump stop when flexed driving up with good spring selection, for the weight.

I have 2 100's here for our Bilstein premium package suspension tomorrow,so i will get some quick measurements for you, if Christo can get me some actual L shock open/closed measurements.

 

[EL_3grab]

the 505010 BATTLEZ ASSIST KIT LC100

is 40mm all around ..

..

I have 2 100's here for our Bilstein premium package suspension tomorrow,so i will get some quick measurements for you, if Christo can get me some actual L shock open/closed measurements.

could you get some pic's

 

[Greg B]

DONT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

until you get the bump stop length sorted, if you have longer shocks than standard OME set up, or you may damage the shock by compressing it, if you havent already.

Both Christo and I had mentioned in previous posts to remove the shocks so they wouldn't bottom out. I assumed Bull was going to measure with the shocks removed in order to get an accurate measurement.

If you've got a 100 pulled apart, we'd all be grateful if you could give us that compressed measurement for future reference. Thanks for the help.

If no one else posts up before noon, I can measue a set of N74L's I have at my house. I'll take a pic of the shock compressed with a ruler next to it so that everyone can see where to measure from for future reference.

 

[bull]

Both Christo and I had mentioned in previous posts to remove the shocks so they wouldn't bottom out. I assumed Bull was going to measure with the shocks removed in order to get an accurate measurement.

If you've got a 100 pulled apart, we'd all be grateful if you could give us that compressed measurement for future reference. Thanks for the help.

If no one else posts up before noon, I can measue a set of N74L's I have at my house. I'll take a pic of the shock compressed with a ruler next to it so that everyone can see where to measure from for future reference.

N74L compressed are 15"

I couldn't get them to bottom out at all. I lifted the driverside rear tire in the air with the passenger tire still on the rock and it wasn't close to bottoming out.
The shock was compressed to 19" or so..and taking out the rear shocks is a bitch

STOLEN FROM SLEE

N73 - Ext - 24.2" - Compressed - 13.9" - 10.3" travel
N73L - Ext 26.2" - Compressed - 15.2" - 11" travel
N74E - Ext - 24.4" - Compressed - 14.6" - 9.8" Travel
N74L - Ext -26.3" - Compressed - 15.2" - 11.1" Travel

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

N74L compressed are 15"

I couldn't get them to bottom out at all. I lifted the driverside rear tire in the air with the passenger tire still on the rock and it wasn't close to bottoming out.
The shock was compressed to 19" or so..and taking out the rear shocks is a bitch

Bull. On that rock youre not completely flexed. Compare your axle angle with mine below. Try your truck in another spot...like a ditch and cross it at 45*.

 

[bull]

Bull. On that rock youre not completely flexed. Compare your axle angle with mine below. Try your truck in another spot...like a ditch and cross it at 45*.

I'm fully flexed at that point. Another inch back and my driverside rear lifts in the air to the point I can remove my coil with ease...Also note that you are taking that photo above your rig where mine was below. Kind of hard to compare via photos.


Why don't you get yours to flex out and measure your shocks. Do your lowered bumpstops hit at all?