Does a lifted 80 really have caster issues? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiserdan
- Start date
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Christo,
Will you post here first, or do we have to check your web site every day this week?
-B-
Will you post here first, or do we have to check your web site every day this week?
-B-
[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=2;threadid=6728;start=msg61843#msg61843 date=1068592607]
You are going to have to wait for the show and tell.
[/quote]
OK, so this is now Romper Room and your Miss Jane?
You are going to have to wait for the show and tell.
[/quote]
OK, so this is now Romper Room and your Miss Jane?
Thanks for the write up Dan.
I was really in the dark on this one. The instructions with the parts assume that the installer actually knows something about the process. It seems to me that to install the suspension it's likely a one day job and probably another day to do the bushings (considering I'll need to take the arms to a shop with a press).
After rereading the OME instructions, I now understand. It seems to me that the hard part is getting the 90 degree mark onto the arms to align the forward bushing. The instructions just say to use a square but I see Dan you've taken a different tact by doing all this measuring.
I wonder if just using a square (or good square piece of plywood cut to the correct height) is good enough?
Once the front bushing is installed, Christo's hint of using the arm of the other arm to align the other bushing sounds easy enough.
I guess the big question is can I mark the arm at the correct spot and not lose much accuracy.
Dan - one other question, did you replace any of the arm bolts/nuts with new parts or did you reuse the parts? Figuring that you used new parts, would you mind posting the numbers?
Thanks again, I think I've got the idea.
R
I was really in the dark on this one. The instructions with the parts assume that the installer actually knows something about the process. It seems to me that to install the suspension it's likely a one day job and probably another day to do the bushings (considering I'll need to take the arms to a shop with a press).
After rereading the OME instructions, I now understand. It seems to me that the hard part is getting the 90 degree mark onto the arms to align the forward bushing. The instructions just say to use a square but I see Dan you've taken a different tact by doing all this measuring.
I wonder if just using a square (or good square piece of plywood cut to the correct height) is good enough?
Once the front bushing is installed, Christo's hint of using the arm of the other arm to align the other bushing sounds easy enough.
I guess the big question is can I mark the arm at the correct spot and not lose much accuracy.
Dan - one other question, did you replace any of the arm bolts/nuts with new parts or did you reuse the parts? Figuring that you used new parts, would you mind posting the numbers?
Thanks again, I think I've got the idea.
R
- Thread starter
- #45
The servce manual states that the bolts are not reusable. When I put my new housing in I replaced the housing end bolts. When I pulled the arms to install the bushings I reused the bolts :whoops: .
Housing end bolts, 90119-16003 list $4.31 each
" " nuts, 90179-16015 list $1.15 each
Frame end bolts, 90105-18006, list $6.20 each
" " nuts, 90170-18007, list ?1.12 each.
Remember, undo the axle end bolts from the bolt head side and the frame end bolts from the nut side.
The axle end nuts have 4 "bumps" on them that bite into the housing and the frame-end bolt heads have the same thing to the frame bracket.
D-
Housing end bolts, 90119-16003 list $4.31 each
" " nuts, 90179-16015 list $1.15 each
Frame end bolts, 90105-18006, list $6.20 each
" " nuts, 90170-18007, list ?1.12 each.
Remember, undo the axle end bolts from the bolt head side and the frame end bolts from the nut side.
The axle end nuts have 4 "bumps" on them that bite into the housing and the frame-end bolt heads have the same thing to the frame bracket.
D-
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
OK, I will let the small cat out of the bag. The caster fix we are working on should work for 3-4" lift. It will be caster plates that bolt to the existing axle side control arm mounts. It uses the stock front control arm with factory bushings. Direct bolt on. Price is not determined at this point, but it should be around the $100/$150 point.
At this point we are doing testing and measurements. One issue is that rotating the axle back like this can cause the tie-rod to hit the control arms. We are figuring the maximum adjustment we can get without this happening.
At this point we are doing testing and measurements. One issue is that rotating the axle back like this can cause the tie-rod to hit the control arms. We are figuring the maximum adjustment we can get without this happening.
- Thread starter
- #47
Any credit for "like new" OME bushings? :whoops:
Been in about a week?
Been in about a week?
Christo - for the medium lift 851/860 what's preferred?
The OME bushings or your new method?
Will the OME return the caster to spec?
I assume that your new solution is for bigger lifts but perhaps it's the way I should go.
The OME bushings or your new method?
Will the OME return the caster to spec?
I assume that your new solution is for bigger lifts but perhaps it's the way I should go.
alia176
SILVER Star
Dan,
How're your UJ angles now? Notice any new vibes or sounds?
How're your UJ angles now? Notice any new vibes or sounds?
- Thread starter
- #50
I have no driveshaft vibration issues at all. 850+1 inch spacer, heavy stuff up front. I am 3/4 inch lower that the heights posted by 2 different J spring users. Based on what I have tested, you would need about double what the OME bushings give you if you plan on 4 inches.
Riley, OME bushings would be just right for that lift. Christo's secret weapon may or may not be adjustable. If it is not, it would over-correct the caster for 850 or 851 springs.
Riley, OME bushings would be just right for that lift. Christo's secret weapon may or may not be adjustable. If it is not, it would over-correct the caster for 850 or 851 springs.
alia176
SILVER Star
That's good to know. I'll measure my distances and compare them to yours. I'd like a little more lift up front to even the truck out a bit. Maybe 1/2 to 3/4".
I guess that means I should cancel the order for my 850, 863 springs and go ahead with the j springs!!! yes I know the tires will look small.
tim
tim
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=6728;start=msg62330#msg62330 date=1068673799]
Any credit for "like new" OME bushings? :whoops:
Been in about a week?
[/quote]
Uhm, sorry, no can do. However get someone else go buy a lift and swap arms
Any credit for "like new" OME bushings? :whoops:
Been in about a week?
[/quote]
Uhm, sorry, no can do. However get someone else go buy a lift and swap arms
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
[quote author=Riley link=board=2;threadid=6728;start=msg62339#msg62339 date=1068674753]
Christo - for the medium lift 851/860 what's preferred?
The OME bushings or your new method?
Will the OME return the caster to spec?
I assume that your new solution is for bigger lifts but perhaps it's the way I should go.
[/quote]
I would still go with the bushings. The correction we are working on is to cover the range of lift between 2.5" and 5/6" where we supply the arms.
Christo - for the medium lift 851/860 what's preferred?
The OME bushings or your new method?
Will the OME return the caster to spec?
I assume that your new solution is for bigger lifts but perhaps it's the way I should go.
[/quote]
I would still go with the bushings. The correction we are working on is to cover the range of lift between 2.5" and 5/6" where we supply the arms.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
[quote author=waldrtw link=board=2;threadid=6728;start=msg62359#msg62359 date=1068676693]
I guess that means I should cancel the order for my 850, 863 springs and go ahead with the j springs!!! yes I know the tires will look small.
tim
[/quote]
Tim, you are still going to have to address driveshaft angles/vibrations, panhard rods etc etc. Just to keep in mind. Even though the caster will be addresses the other items will add costs.
I guess that means I should cancel the order for my 850, 863 springs and go ahead with the j springs!!! yes I know the tires will look small.
tim
[/quote]
Tim, you are still going to have to address driveshaft angles/vibrations, panhard rods etc etc. Just to keep in mind. Even though the caster will be addresses the other items will add costs.
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Fwiw, my new caster bushings felt great on the trip back to work this afternoon, steering is much more stable. (OME 850's). Nice work Christo. -tim
christo,
thanks for saving me some money, I will stick with the 850 and 863's. they should be in tomorrow.
tim
thanks for saving me some money, I will stick with the 850 and 863's. they should be in tomorrow.
tim
I would be using the plates on mine over the bushes if higher than 2 -2.5" lift, as they dont crack the mounting plates like OME bushes do when doing lots of articulation.
alia176
SILVER Star
Darren,
Do these bushings last a long time under typical offroading usage? The ones for a LR, for instance, tend to separate quite quickly (<1year).
Do these bushings last a long time under typical offroading usage? The ones for a LR, for instance, tend to separate quite quickly (<1year).
Depends what you call a long time I guess, I know ARB has changed the design of the bush 10 + times trying to make them last. I did test some sets of the bushes when they were trying to get them right and couldnt get more than a weekend out of the earlier ones, but a 80 that sees a fair bit of wheeling I would expect to see bushes becoming loose and / or cracked around the small centre steel section in 1-2 years, some may get 2-4 years out of a set if wheeled only afew times a year and road miles as daily driver etc.
