Dobinsons IMS Shocks - Land Cruiser 100 Series and Lexus LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Nope, but there's not much "body" at the lower mount, it's mainly "shaft" at the lower mount, with a soft rubber boot.

You can get a glimpse of what I'm taking about in this picture (not my vehicle, and probably not a 100 series)
View attachment 2637492
Got it- Thanks đź‘Ť
 
I finally got around to installing the IMS front shocks, and MRA rear shocks on my 06 LX470 (low lift, near stock weight).

I haven't spent any time "tuning" the rear shocks yet, and they might be set a hair soft, but even so, the current ride is awesome.

View attachment 2630053
View attachment 2630051

Second IMS/MRA install is done.

The rear seems a little firm on this one, so I got motivated enough to check LSC/HSC settings They’re the same as the first vehicle, so I must be off on the rebound setting.

Still very pleased with both setups, they each need a little tuning to be “just right”.


Just in case anyone else goes down the MRA rear shocks path, on a lightly loaded (rear) 100 series...

So far, my "happy place" on the MRA rear shocks, with close to stock weight, appears to be:

LSC=4
HSC=1
Rebound=4


10/14/21 MRA settings revised from LSC=2 to LSC=4

3/22/22 MRA settings revised from Rebound=3 to Rebound-4
 
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Overall, I'm very satisfied with the way mine handles both on the trails and hauling azz through the HWY 103 curves. @aaronrules knows the road I'm talking about.


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Yes, about 3 weeks and they'll be coming in again. We're taking backorders for them already if you haven't placed an order yet.

I looking at ordering the DOBINSONS 2.5-3.0" IMS LIFT KIT FOR TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 100 SERIES IFS LIFT KIT 1998-2007, along with the rear drawers and then rear bumper with tire carrier and double jerry can rack from you. Im thinking the up to 880 lbs springs, but Im not looking for a harsh ride. What would you suggest as far as springs go?
 
I looking at ordering the DOBINSONS 2.5-3.0" IMS LIFT KIT FOR TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 100 SERIES IFS LIFT KIT 1998-2007, along with the rear drawers and then rear bumper with tire carrier and double jerry can rack from you. Im thinking the up to 880 lbs springs, but Im not looking for a harsh ride. What would you suggest as far as springs go?
I wouldn't go with anything more than the C59-185's unless you're planning to add more weight than what you just listed. You can always add trim spacers to add more height to the rear if needed, but going with a super strong spring without the constant weight wouldn't give a very good ride.

 
60682 Rear - I'm looking forward to installation on Monday 11/30.

I am installing a set of the rear shocks that are a step down from this( C59-682) in the rear and was looking for some advice on the bushing / hardware to be used. Do you remember if we need to replicate the FSM below? It shows 4 retainers , two on each bushing. The shocks came with only 3 retainers of the proper size. Does the lower bushing just get pushed right into the shocks mount with no retainer?



p7elN5w3mvMjsLLLyYLsqnotGy9Big7hufkCpezN32DM0EYC7xvBxKjRU2LaUKKvIRBcXl2NZ_F3mHFq_17KBV5ivxwXdX9rF8bZwKb3QOK_rZAJYSwhN3PACB87tJdSWsaZwTCD







KIMG3280.JPG
 
The 60682s came with two bags of parts. I didn't need anything that didn't come with the kit.

Need @crikeymike to clarify the different model parts.


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1620740495601.png
 
I am installing a set of the rear shocks that are a step down from this( C59-682) in the rear and was looking for some advice on the bushing / hardware to be used. Do you remember if we need to replicate the FSM below? It shows 4 retainers , two on each bushing. The shocks came with only 3 retainers of the proper size. Does the lower bushing just get pushed right into the shocks mount with no retainer?



p7elN5w3mvMjsLLLyYLsqnotGy9Big7hufkCpezN32DM0EYC7xvBxKjRU2LaUKKvIRBcXl2NZ_F3mHFq_17KBV5ivxwXdX9rF8bZwKb3QOK_rZAJYSwhN3PACB87tJdSWsaZwTCD







View attachment 2671461

The 60682s came with two bags of parts. I didn't need anything that didn't come with the kit.

Need @crikeymike to clarify the different model parts.


View attachment 2671487


View attachment 2671488

I normally put the lipped bushing on the bottom of the shock mount with the lipped washer on top of it, then on top of the mount, the regular bushing and washer then the nut. Making sure it's centered in the mount properly. The way the washers and bushings come installed on the shocks doesn't dictate the exact way they go on.

Yeah, I've seen how some OE's use locating washers on the top and bottom of the shock mount, but a lot of aftermarkets don't.
 
@OwnerCS @jLB @crikeymike, did you guys use the washer on the lower mount on the backside of the shock bushing (axle side)? I just slid the lower shock mount on and bolted it up using the factory bolt/washer, but noticing in the instructions online that the lower mount calls for the washer on the backside of the shock mount for a 105 series. Also, I couldn’t see a use for any of the anti-twist washers for the top mounts, did you guys? Seems the top mounts are a little different on the 100 vs the 105/80 series? One of my reservoirs keeps loosening up in the supplied bracket as well. To be clear, the reservoir is sliding up in the bracket towards the top of the shock. The bracket itself is staying in place. Not sure what is causing that as I believe I have the bracket on pretty tight. Maybe it’s sliding due to the sticker?
 
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@OwnerCS @jLB @crikeymike, did you guys use the washer on the lower mount on the backside of the shock bushing (axle side)? I just slid the lower shock mount on and bolted it up using the factory bolt/washer, but noticing in the instructions online that the lower mount calls for the washer on the backside of the shock mount for a 105 series. Also, I couldn’t see a use for any of the anti-twist washers for the top mounts, did you guys? Seems the top mounts are a little different on the 100 vs the 105/80 series? One of my reservoirs keeps loosening up in the supplied bracket as well. To be clear, the reservoir is sliding up in the bracket towards the top of the shock. The bracket itself is staying in place. Not sure what is causing that as I believe I have the bracket on pretty tight. Maybe it’s sliding due to the sticker?

That shows all the washers and bushings.

Edit: yes, you need the washer on the lower mount first, then the shock with the bushings, then the outer washer and nut. Otherwise the bushing near the axle could get out of place and cause issues.

The anti-twist washers don't work on the 100 series without modification. Yes, the 100 series IFS rear upper shock mounts are different then the 80 and 105, I don't know why. I think it was with @OwnerCS that we went through the washer options with photos, but I can't find the conversation anymore. I think it was the 200 series one that got used, but I can't find the conversation.

Either the resi bracket isn't tight enough or something might not be in place right. Been a while since I saw inside the packaging, but when I did the MRA's on my 4runner, it came with some small square rubber pads that are to go between the resi and the mount if it doesn't stay tight. You could put anything in there to build up the resi thickness (rubber, old bike tire, weatherstripping), but I've not heard of this issue. The rear shocks are the same that all 80 series and 200 series use. The sticker wouldn't be causing it, since it's designed to clamp on the resi.
 

That shows all the washers and bushings.

Edit: yes, you need the washer on the lower mount first, then the shock with the bushings, then the outer washer and nut. Otherwise the bushing near the axle could get out of place and cause issues.

The anti-twist washers don't work on the 100 series without modification. Yes, the 100 series IFS rear upper shock mounts are different then the 80 and 105, I don't know why. I think it was with @OwnerCS that we went through the washer options with photos, but I can't find the conversation anymore. I think it was the 200 series one that got used, but I can't find the conversation.

Either the resi bracket isn't tight enough or something might not be in place right. Been a while since I saw inside the packaging, but when I did the MRA's on my 4runner, it came with some small square rubber pads that are to go between the resi and the mount if it doesn't stay tight. You could put anything in there to build up the resi thickness (rubber, old bike tire, weatherstripping), but I've not heard of this issue. The rear shocks are the same that all 80 series and 200 series use. The sticker wouldn't be causing it, since it's designed to clamp on the resi.
Thank you, short of the washers on the bottom mount, I have everything else sorted perfectly, with the exception of the reservoir mount. The attachment helps, so I’ll be sure to angle the resevoirs the same way.
 
crikeymike had excellent communication while I was waiting for my IMS/MRR kit.

Some comments on the shocks:

One thing to note is that the rebound adjustment is not on the reservoir, but rather on the machined eyelet where the bottom shock bolt passes. To adjust the rebound, you will need to cut the zip tie securing the dust boot on (not a big deal, just annoying). I had my suspension installed at a shop, and they pointed the rebound adjustment towards the wheel, making it impossible to adjust with the supplied shock adjustment tool. I ended up using a short stubby flat head to get my rears to a baseline setting. I will probably end up spinning the shock eye/shaft 180 degrees, if possible?, when I find some time.
 
crikeymike had excellent communication while I was waiting for my IMS/MRR kit.

Some comments on the shocks:

One thing to note is that the rebound adjustment is not on the reservoir, but rather on the machined eyelet where the bottom shock bolt passes. To adjust the rebound, you will need to cut the zip tie securing the dust boot on (not a big deal, just annoying). I had my suspension installed at a shop, and they pointed the rebound adjustment towards the wheel, making it impossible to adjust with the supplied shock adjustment tool. I ended up using a short stubby flat head to get my rears to a baseline setting. I will probably end up spinning the shock eye/shaft 180 degrees, if possible?, when I find some time.
Yeah, the instructions show to point the rebound adjuster to an accessible location. You just take that off, and rotate it.

I don't leave the bottom on my MRA's zip tied. The boot fits over and covers the rebound adjuster just fine, and I can pull it up to adjust rebound, although it's very rare that I ever touch that now that it's where I like it. If you go in mud though, keeping the boot in place is important.
 
One thing to note is that the rebound adjustment is not on the reservoir, but rather on the machined eyelet where the bottom shock bolt passes. To adjust the rebound, you will need to cut the zip tie securing the dust boot on (not a big deal, just annoying). I had my suspension installed at a shop, and they pointed the rebound adjustment towards the wheel, making it impossible to adjust with the supplied shock adjustment tool. I ended up using a short stubby flat head to get my rears to a baseline setting. I will probably end up spinning the shock eye/shaft 180 degrees, if possible?

Yep, I ended up with one pointed towards the wheel (outward), and the other pointed toward the differential (inward) on initial install, and discovered the same thing. It was fairly easy to correct.

I’ve preferred a screwdriver like this:


to the factory tool, on the rebound adjuster (even when pointed inward)
 
Anyone make the move from Ironman FCPs? I love my FCPs but looking for more down travel and the 786s seem to fit the bill. Any comments on how the two compare?
 
I can't compare FCP, but full droop on mine is 24 and 3/4 inches. It keeps its feet on the ground. The top-mounted piston with boot-covered lower shaft design takes a beating from small rocks in my environment. The paint on the LCA is being worn off from rock hits. The IMS rides well and can take a beating on the trail.

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I can't compare FCP, but full droop on mine is 24 and 3/4 inches. It keeps its feet on the ground. The top-mounted piston with boot-covered lower shaft design takes a beating from small rocks in my environment. The paint on the LCA is being worn off from rock hits. The IMS rides well and can take a beating on the trail.

Thanks for posting your droop #'s, I've been kicking around ordering the front extended travel IMS. I'd net just a little over 1" more front travel over my current Tough Dog 45mm fronts (with SPC uppers and 555 lower ball joints) based on your numbers. Thats not insignificant on our trucks.
 
Thanks for posting your droop #'s, I've been kicking around ordering the front extended travel IMS. I'd net just a little over 1" more front travel over my current Tough Dog 45mm fronts (with SPC uppers and 555 lower ball joints) based on your numbers. Thats not insignificant on our trucks.

I'm also running SPC uppers and 555 lowers. Looks like we have the same configuration.
 

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