Do these manifolds look ok? (1 Viewer)

[Slow Poke]

The old girl has been running rough after warm up. She’s happier when choked. I thought it must be the carb but after rebuilding it twice ( thanks to pinheads YouTube videos) I’ve moved on to the next most likely problem. I did try torquing it down before removing it but I wasn’t able to change anything. So now that it’s out I’m thinking it doesn’t look that bad apart from the cheese sandwich mess where they bolt together. But I’m no master mechanic by any stretch. So what do you think? TIA

 

[Slow Poke]

A few more

 

[charliemeyer007]

One of the last pic's in post 1 shows me, the intake manifold is warped some. The rest of the pic's don't show much to me sorry.
Make sure head is clean on the mating surface. I would loosen the nuts holding the intake and exhaust together. Mount the assembly on the engine without a gasket and torque it in place in the pattern by 1/3. After you get to full torque then take a propane torch and heat the aluminum intake to like 300 degrees where it was warped toward that end runner. Let it cool slowly. Now torque the manifold together. Remove the assembly and see how flat it is. Hopefully its flatter than it was.

Soak your new manifold gasket in warm water for 1/2 an hour - this will soften it and allow the high spot to sink in better. Install the system and again do the pattern by 1/3 three times. After it runs and gets good and hot (15 minutes or more) retorque at 100%. After several heat cycles check it again.

I use stainless steel nuts with high heat anti seize compound.

 

[CondeCruiser]

Grab one of these .

TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

REMFLEX EXHAUST GASKETS are extra thick and compressable. REMFLEX gaskets fill voids on warped header flanges and exhaust manifolds. REMFLEX gaskets are good to 3000 degrees. REMFLEX gaskets won't burn out. No retorquing required with REMFLEX GASKETS.

catalog.remflex.com

 

[igotta40]

That’s about the same price as the factory Toyota gasket. I just bought one a couple hours ago.

 

[Slow Poke]

One of the last pic's in post 1 shows me, the intake manifold is warped some. The rest of the pic's don't show much to me sorry.
Make sure head is clean on the mating surface. I would loosen the nuts holding the intake and exhaust together. Mount the assembly on the engine without a gasket and torque it in place in the pattern by 1/3. After you get to full torque then take a propane torch and heat the aluminum intake to like 300 degrees where it was warped toward that end runner. Let it cool slowly. Now torque the manifold together. Remove the assembly and see how flat it is. Hopefully its flatter than it was.

Soak your new manifold gasket in warm water for 1/2 an hour - this will soften it and allow the high spot to sink in better. Install the system and again do the pattern by 1/3 three times. After it runs and gets good and hot (15 minutes or more) retorque at 100%. After several heat cycles check it again.

I use stainless steel nuts with high heat anti seize compound.

Stainless steel studs and nuts or just nuts?

 

[mattressking]

Just an FYI with stainless hardware....it work hardens when heated and is more common to break when removed. You'll notice this especially with the stainless hose clamps for cooling hoses, those things are one time use once they are heated.

Antiseize helps, but you're better off with carbon steel thats plated, easier to service later.

RE: manifold condition; put it on a surface plate (or granite counter) and attempt to put a .5mm feeler on the perimeter of manifold with mating surface on counter. If it slides in, do exactly what @charliemeyer007 said. Use Felpro or OEM gasket and a nice clean thin bead of high temp copper then torque to factory or slightly more. Check/Retorque after driving a bit.

Take care on the two bolts going into aluminum, they might pull the threads especially looking at the condition of yours so be prepared with Helicoil and a thread die for bolts.

 

[3_puppies]

my local old school machine shop planes the bolted together manifolds so they are flat and true, they also check the washer side to make sure the washer sits flat against both manifolds
I use Toyota gasket
torque the manifolds to the head, go thru a heat cycle and torque again, doing this a few times the first week, I stop when I don't get anymore rotation when torque

 

[Slow Poke]

I appreciate all the advice. I’m feeling more confident about the process. The one piece that I’m still worried about is the gasket mess between the two manifolds. There’s a SS plate, a gasket and what appears to be some sort of goop squishing out that might have been applied afterwards. If I loosen up the connection bolts I think that I might as well take it apart and replace that gasket also. I’m concerned that might create a problem. I don’t see how to avoid it though

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well your heat riser looks like it could use some work. I have a header with my own fluid heat riser on the bottom of the intake manifold.

 

[Pighead]

Stainless steel studs and nuts or just nuts?

I like Toyota studs and nuts. I couldn't find new washers so had to re-use those. Anti-seize so you can pull out the broken bit after you overtorque it.
I tried a Remflex once, did not care for it. I have used two Felpro gaskets, stacked, with plenty of the brush-on Copper coat gasket stuff (don't buy the spray-on). After some machine work, one Toyota gasket works for me.

 

[Slow Poke]

I decided to take them apart which was the correct call. The intake looks pretty good apart from needing a Helicoil or two. The mating surface of the exhaust is in poor shape. The iron is crumbly and easily falls apart with a little tapping. I don’t imagine it’s something that can be saved. Decision time I guess

 

[Slow Poke]

Here’s a few pictures

 

[charliemeyer007]

Good call ripping it apart.

 

[CondeCruiser]

I've got a couple exhaust manifolds if you need one.

 

[peesalot]

I agree with Pig, Toyota hardware, stainless will gal & weld itself together, don't need that where you can't get at it.
Your parts except the heat riser look really good IMO, some of the straightest old ones I've seen. Fix up that heat riser and if she only runs on choke your idle circuit is plugged.