Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA.
- Thread starter 2fpower
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2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #282
Been busy on some house projects but making slow progress on this. Cleaned up all the welds
and decided to use some 3/16 bent aluminum to make the cover for the old box, new storage area
welded in not retainers for the aluminum piece
I forgot to take pictures of the second test fit and alignment that led o final cut and now I’m putting the angle iron support under the joint
and decided to use some 3/16 bent aluminum to make the cover for the old box, new storage area
welded in not retainers for the aluminum piece
I forgot to take pictures of the second test fit and alignment that led o final cut and now I’m putting the angle iron support under the joint
2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #286
@tornadoalleycruiser stopped by on Saturday and helped me get the frame separated from the cab. He also help me make a points list of all the things I need to do to the tub. He has a build of a 45 going now with a 3FE that you can find over on the 45 forum. We have a little wager about who’s going to get finished first.
2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #287
@ c2dfj45 shared how they do their sound deadener process, so this is exactly what I will do inside and under the car. Time to order some product. @tornadoalleycruiser this is for you too....
Clean and prep metal.....on this truck we power washed, removed all OEM sound deadener, nylon brushed/sanded/wire brushed the whole floor(the floor was a mix of some paint that was adhered well, some not). Used the Master Series to seal up any rust(I think we painted most of the floor in this truck to 'seal' it). Scuffed the Master Series with 320 or what they recommend. We applied Second Skin Damplifier Pro FIRST(these are the butyl sound deadening sheets).....then we sprayed on the Spectrum....about 1-2mm I think. I waited a couple of weeks for it to dry just because we got busy with other things. 7-10 days is what they told me for the water to evaporate for full cure. We then knocked down the Spectrum with some 80 grit......then we sprayed our Raptor. The rear on this truck is raptor over the Master Series....no Spectrum back there. We did the floor in 2 sprays. I wasn't overly concerned with sound deadening on the rear floor....we will lay down some Luxury Liner Pro if it becomes an issue. Just the small amount of sound deadener we used in the Troopy is amazing....very nice inside. The amount we used on the 79 is ridiculous...that truck is next level quiet and solid.
On the 79s...since they are very clean inside and all new, we simply clean the metal, stick down the Damplifer, then Spectrum over it....no scuffing....and that was per Second Skin...however you can scuff if you want(red scotchbrite). When that Spectrum dries, it does not come off. We don't Raptor the 79s inside since they are all covered with flooring.
Since the undersides of the 79s are brand new and primed/e-coated, we do the same thing.....clean, then we roll on the Spectrum under the truck. You can use their additive to thicken it up(Sludge) and that allows it to really cling to everything. We do that in the cabs up in the corners of everything. The Spectrum can be used as undercoating.....it's solid stuff. I have yet to do a truck with it on the firewall(exterior...facing motor). I like being able to clean engine compartments. I think the Spectrum would be nearly impossible to clean.
I pull the tape on the Spectrum as soon as we are done with it and it's not wet to the touch. We re-tape when we Raptor.
The biggest thing on the 79 was doing the rear cab wall....again the same thing.....scuff, apply Damplifier Pro(we did the ENTIRE wall), Spectrum. Spectrum was used on just the exterior of the wall. I'm convinced that doing the exterior cab wall probably was the biggest sound reducer....that gap between the bed and the cab must have all kinds of sound and harmonics going on.
It's all really forgiving stuff....clean is most important. The only word of caution is that if you are going to spray the Raptor over the Spectrum, try to get that Spectrum as smooth as you can or you'll be loading up the Raptor to try and cover all the peaks and valleys created by the Spectrum. A lot of that is because of how fine we spray the Raptor....I think if you went with more of a heavier coat or texture, you're going to be fine. I love fine texture bed liner....hard to achieve that over Spectrum or Lizard Skin unless it's been sanded smooth. Hope that makes sense.
I'm wondering if the website saying you don't have to prime doesn't mean that nothing special is required. I'm sure it could go over bare metal but that sounds sketchy. Our primer is always Master Series.
Clean and prep metal.....on this truck we power washed, removed all OEM sound deadener, nylon brushed/sanded/wire brushed the whole floor(the floor was a mix of some paint that was adhered well, some not). Used the Master Series to seal up any rust(I think we painted most of the floor in this truck to 'seal' it). Scuffed the Master Series with 320 or what they recommend. We applied Second Skin Damplifier Pro FIRST(these are the butyl sound deadening sheets).....then we sprayed on the Spectrum....about 1-2mm I think. I waited a couple of weeks for it to dry just because we got busy with other things. 7-10 days is what they told me for the water to evaporate for full cure. We then knocked down the Spectrum with some 80 grit......then we sprayed our Raptor. The rear on this truck is raptor over the Master Series....no Spectrum back there. We did the floor in 2 sprays. I wasn't overly concerned with sound deadening on the rear floor....we will lay down some Luxury Liner Pro if it becomes an issue. Just the small amount of sound deadener we used in the Troopy is amazing....very nice inside. The amount we used on the 79 is ridiculous...that truck is next level quiet and solid.
On the 79s...since they are very clean inside and all new, we simply clean the metal, stick down the Damplifer, then Spectrum over it....no scuffing....and that was per Second Skin...however you can scuff if you want(red scotchbrite). When that Spectrum dries, it does not come off. We don't Raptor the 79s inside since they are all covered with flooring.
Since the undersides of the 79s are brand new and primed/e-coated, we do the same thing.....clean, then we roll on the Spectrum under the truck. You can use their additive to thicken it up(Sludge) and that allows it to really cling to everything. We do that in the cabs up in the corners of everything. The Spectrum can be used as undercoating.....it's solid stuff. I have yet to do a truck with it on the firewall(exterior...facing motor). I like being able to clean engine compartments. I think the Spectrum would be nearly impossible to clean.
I pull the tape on the Spectrum as soon as we are done with it and it's not wet to the touch. We re-tape when we Raptor.
The biggest thing on the 79 was doing the rear cab wall....again the same thing.....scuff, apply Damplifier Pro(we did the ENTIRE wall), Spectrum. Spectrum was used on just the exterior of the wall. I'm convinced that doing the exterior cab wall probably was the biggest sound reducer....that gap between the bed and the cab must have all kinds of sound and harmonics going on.
It's all really forgiving stuff....clean is most important. The only word of caution is that if you are going to spray the Raptor over the Spectrum, try to get that Spectrum as smooth as you can or you'll be loading up the Raptor to try and cover all the peaks and valleys created by the Spectrum. A lot of that is because of how fine we spray the Raptor....I think if you went with more of a heavier coat or texture, you're going to be fine. I love fine texture bed liner....hard to achieve that over Spectrum or Lizard Skin unless it's been sanded smooth. Hope that makes sense.
I'm wondering if the website saying you don't have to prime doesn't mean that nothing special is required. I'm sure it could go over bare metal but that sounds sketchy. Our primer is always Master Series.
Ordered, and note to self.. Kelly is starting to cost ME money.. For all these years I was the bad influence.
2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #289
Starting to work on the hinges with @tornadoalleycruiser
elecrolosis was able to take hinge that would not budge, and make it swing freely. unfortunately, still could not get pin out, with moderate heat.
I ended up having to drill the pin out on this one. Will put brass bushings in and hopefully never have to work on these again.
elecrolosis was able to take hinge that would not budge, and make it swing freely. unfortunately, still could not get pin out, with moderate heat.
I ended up having to drill the pin out on this one. Will put brass bushings in and hopefully never have to work on these again.
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I think I’m going to follow your lead on adding a few inches of legroom. Simple enough and my truck is already hodgepodged together so it doesn’t matter.
Tank5
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I just finished welding a bunch of holes on my frame. I hated the grinding and clean process more than the welding them closed. Good luck.
I like the ribbed panel you made for the firewall. Looks good.
2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #297
I just finished welding a bunch of holes on my frame. I hated the grinding and clean process more than the welding them closed. Good luck.
I like the ribbed panel you made for the firewall. Looks good.
Yeah, way more work than I expected... got a little sunburn on my face as I kept tacking these holes without welding helmet on.... got the transition done for foot box out.
Realized my offset made good round plugs for smaller holes
Thinking about putting rib back in, although the foot box made it much stronger
driver side might put rib on inside of master
Ribbed for , uhh.. yes the rib would look better.
