dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

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dkroth said:
I just bought this re-threading set. Re-threading is different from cutting new threads. I don't know why, but it is.

Great deal on Kastar Hand Tools 971 at ToolTopia.com

That's the best price I could find on the 48-pc set. Snap-on re-brands this set for more than twice the price:

RTD48, Kit, Master Rethreading, U.S./Metric
Click to expand...

A re-threading set has "blunter" edges than a tap, and it meant to re-form buggered up threads to workable condition, rather than cutting material away to make new threads.

Dallas, this is a total inspiration to all of us reading it! So remember when more issues pop up that there are a lot of us that are rootin' for you to get it done right all the way! By the way, it seems to me that the last BIG unknown you had was what you were going to find when you pulled the engine...and now that that's done it would seem to me that you've done a good inventory of what you have and what you still need, and I would think at this point most of the new surprises are going to be in the details. Good on ya.

And I'm with you on Cruiser molesting. I hate hacking. My goal with my FJ40 is that when I'm done (some number of years from now), the only thing that won't be easily revertable will by my FJ60 power steering conversion. But I would like to think that that was done right, or at least will be once I clean up a couple things that I'm not happy about...

Are you in Colorado or Utah? If you're in Colorado Springs, I'd love to come down sometime and help you wrench, and I'm sure there are a handful of others from Rising Sun that would like to come down too! Let us know if you need help or wouldn't mind some tire kickers!
 
Matt,

Thanks for the message and it sounds like we have similar tastes! To be honest, I am kind of in between UT and CO. I am working on a contract in Salt Lake City, UT and love the crew there but have really been missing Colorado and my family there. I am currently living in UT, but I "think" I will be back in Colorado when this contract concludes, we'll see. I'd love to hook up with you guys up in Denver and wrench/go over things. Plus, I learn tons every time we meet up and I have much to learn on this diesel project.

I have secured 24V pieces for the project and will be posting pictures by the end of next week hopefully.

See ya!

dallas
 
Yo Big D what else is going on with this project havent herd from ya in a while, atleast since thirsdie.

Thomas
 
it IS halloween you know!

I'll have some updates hopefully by the end of the week, first of next. This project started off being much more expensive than anticipated. These 24V diesel parts are very expensive. I found some however and should be updating later this week.

Thank you for staying tuned!
 
I have decided to take a different approach to this restoration process.

Unlike any of the FJ's I have restored, I am hesitant to tear into this one and work my way up from the frame. I would be interested on the forums thoughts on this one as well, but....

Another direction on this would be to assemble this cruiser (because it was a 350 v8 conversion) and make sure everything works, blinks, starts, stops, and cools. When it is all put together, and running on the original 3B, I will take it all apart, restore, and build it back up again.

The only thing I am wondering is.....since I have the 3B on the stand.....the "other" guy in me is saying, rip it down, blast the frame, and work your way up.

What do you guys think? This is tough for me because I don't know anything about the diesel 24V system. What would you do in restoring this cruiser? Get it put together and then restore? Or rip it down and restore?

Thoughts?
 
in for a penny, in for a pound.

how mad will you be at yourself if you dont tear it down?

this will always be the cruiser that you say, well i should have done this, and that...

just my .02
 
I would assemble it, run it, check it, make sure it's complete. Maybe work on little things as you assemble the parts together. Then tear it down. I would think it is much easier to start with a complete vehicle when you take it down and try to get it back together than to try and figure it out as you try to put it back together. And then you also know that you won't need to spend more money on parts, just money for the restoration process, which you're already familiar with.
 
I would build it and then tear it down. That way you aren't drilling holes to add or move something after you already painted it. This is the approach I am using in my project - also swapping drive train like you.
 
dmaddox said:
That's what I am feeling too Matt - excellent points.

They ONLY draw back I see to this is installing the motor. It is a bit of a pain. :-(

thanks for the insight!

-dallas
Click to expand...

It's either going to be a pain now or later. I would rather make it now and get it out of the way so it's tons easier on the next go-round. You're talking about re-fabbing motor mounts and stuff right? Like Awl-TEQ said, it would be nice to have the fabbing done so you don't have to ruin you're brand new shiny frame because of some error :doh:

Plus once you've installed the motor once it should go a lot faster the second time, since you'll know better what plugs into what, how close you are to being done, and it'll be easier to troubleshoot because it will have run already before you tore it down, so all you have to do is figure out what's missing from the re-build process to get it running again, rather than trying to troubleshoot from scratch, with nothing to go off of :hhmm::idea:
 
I agree with all the points above - I prefer to get everything working to my satisfaction mechanically before worrying about restoration. That way you can plan your budget for the restoration phase and control timelines.

I would also factor in things like access to resources needed for restoration. When you lived near your shop, that was easy. Now that you are in SLC, the extra time you gain by not tearing into it right away will facilitate planning.
 
PabloCruise said:
I agree with all the points above - I prefer to get everything working to my satisfaction mechanically before worrying about restoration. That way you can plan your budget for the restoration phase and control timelines.

Im with Pablocruise on this one as well. I would just get everything to fit and run correctly before ripping the body apart. You have done plenty of those to know how easy it is. So do the mechanical portion first then go from there. Lycka Till!!

Thomas
Click to expand...
 
I'm of the same opinion as the previous posters. Mocking up to fit is so essential if you want the final product to be perfect. This way you won't feel bad if you scratch and scrape things to get parts in and out. I think you'll see soon how simple a Diesel really is. Good luck on the project anyhow
 
24V pieces have arrived from Canada. Does everything look ok?

24V2.jpg


24V Voltage Regulater
24V Alternator/Vacuum Pump
24V Starter
24V EDIC Motor

All came off a very low mileage 3B, but unfortunately a bit rusty. I'd much rather deal with grime.

The two starters look identical. What do you guys mean I may need to "swap noses"?

The 12V is nearest:

24V1.jpg


Thank you.

-dallas
 
Dallas:

definitely do the mechanical, then just pull it apart and clean it up. There'll be enough things you'll end up having to add or alter that you'll be much happier if you haven't painted it first...

Those bits look right to me. Looks like you got lucky on the starters, if the 24V one fits, then you should be golden and you can disregard that stuff about swapping nose cones.

Dan
 
More than anything the V8 sitting between the frame rails make me cringe! Glad you got it out of there and another cruiser went to a good home! Keeping the legend alive love the thread!!!
 
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