dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

[bj40green]

Dallas & Big T.......... you guys are great. You solved the puzzle!
The drawing of "my" connector is mirrored!

Here is the new lay out. Now the only thing to figure out is, on which prong appears 12V and 24V. But that can be done later when the relay is installed with the bottom 4 wires.
Great job!



Tomorrow I'll adjust the "worksheet" with the numbers and the color codes.

Time for a (or2)

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

Goodmorning everybody,

So today is tommorow . Here is the new "worksheet" update.
Question: What is the position of the relay related to the prongs? Prongs on the lower side or on the upper side? It's just for the record so I can make this a complete document for future use.
As I said before, now we only have to figure out the headlights wires but that will be a piece of cake.


Have a nice day, with lots of fun,

Rudi

 

[dmaddox]

Rudi....WE DID IT!!!! YEAHOOOOOO!!!

We have LIGHT...DIM AND BRIGHT!!!!

Solution (you can make it prettier):

Proof:

Soldering each connection:

Shrink tube each wire and fusible link:

HERE IS WHY, I never throw away any old wiring pieces from Toyotas I have owned. Tom, check this out - I found the factory piece for the 5A fuse box on the driver side:

While we were testing circuits by inserting ONE FUSE at a time, I thought we might check the engine 15A fuse. Guess what?

We have GLOW!!

Headlight system? Check!
Glow/Engine circuit? Check!

I have the Voltage Regulator, Alternator, Heater and a few other small bits to figure out......

We are getting CLOSE!!! This is so much fun - thank you for all of the help as we work through this.

 

[bj40green]

Graduation

Dear Mr. Dallas Maddox,

We, the electric boys, hereby declare that you have succesfully finished the class: ELECTRIC 101




CONGRATULATIONS !


Rudi & Tom

 

[lostmarbles]

Dear Mr. Dallas Maddox,

We, the electric boys, hereby declare that you have succesfully finished the class: ELECTRIC 101

CONGRATULATIONS !


Rudi & Tom

Yup. Well done Dallas.

Some people regard the electrical side of cruisers as a PITA but I'm glad to see that you're really one of us .... (speaking for Rudi and myself).

Nice to see you're actually ENJOYING working on it.

I always get a great sense of accomplishment/satisfaction when changing "PO hashed wiring" into something that is both reliable and neat (and works as the manufacturer intended).

 

[bj40green]

Final wiring diagram and relay lay out

Here is the final drawing. Print it out, frame it in and hang it on the wall.



Rudi

 

[subzali]

Awesome Dallas. Just too Love the glow light.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Awesome Dallas. Just too Love the glow light.

Agreed. But it's more than just a light. It "glows" just like the GPs do. How cool is that?

BTW Matt: you want to learn to solder? We can do that. Trips to the hardware store for that missing butt-splice connector are a thing of the past!

Dan

 

[dmaddox]

Awesome - thanks guys!!!

As I am 99% done with the engine wiring, I am just finishing up the last wires. I have a question on the ALT and Regulator:

Notice on this that Tom mentioned earlier:

View attachment 552836

Notice that the plug on the ALT has 3 wires and in that picture there is a triangle if you will - where the E is at the top, bottom left is F and bottom right is N.

E=WB
F=WG
N=WL

On my plug - recall:

Top is Green, Bottom left is Black, bottom right is Blue.

So.....

That would mean Green and Black are reversed.

I HAVE TWO connections I did - that I am unsure of.

1. On my ALT - I connected my W/B to the F position of my plug (because it was black). I connected the W/G to the E position (because it was green) and I plugged the WL (thin) into the N position (because it was blue).


And then:

2. On my Voltage Regulator - I connected Y to Y, WL thin to thin WL, WG to WG, WB to WB, then my Thick WL I decided to connect to the only thick wire on the regulator - W. I then was left with my BY which I decided to connect to the only remaining wire on the regulator which was WR....

I am hoping.

What do you guys think on this one?

dallas

 

[bj40green]

Dallas, slowly, slowly here. If this goes wrong then.....
Let's start with the alternator. It looks like you have the alternator of a BJ60 or so.
This alt has the same wire colors as in your picture except the F terminal. So at this alt the colors are:
N = Blue (charge current regulation)
E = Black (ground - earth)
F = White / Green (field)
The B terminal is not important at this point.
To make sure that the black one is ground..... take your meter, select ohm and meassure between the black wire and the housing of the alt.
The reading should be 0 ohm. If not, check which color has 0 ohm to the housing. That color is your E (white/black) wire.
One down, two to go.


Rudi

 

[dmaddox]

Rudi,

The test was positive - the black wire is 0.00 Ohms to the body of the ALT. Luckily I do have the W/B wire hooked to the E terminal (black wire) currently.

 

[lostmarbles]

Yes. If only one of those 3 prongs on your alternator pigtail connector has continuity with the body of your alternator then you will have correctly identified it as your E terminal.

But I feel pretty sure the earth prong should be the "odd man out" prong (sitting at the apex of the triangle).

So I suggest testing all the prongs and see if any others show continuity too.

I suspect you've made a mistake in taking any notice at all of your alternator pigtail colour-codes. (They could even be the random work of a motor-rewinder.).

The apex or "odd man out prong" (in my opinion) must surely be the earth and as such should connect with the WB wire in your loom (regardless of the pigtail showing GREEN there).

Similarly I think the top prong of triangle must surely be the N terminal and as such should connect with the WL (thinner of two) in your loom. (Note: I'm saying TOP on the basis of that connector sitting on the alternator as drawn in attachment 552836 that you refer to at the very top of your post #410 Dallas) .....And this is the only one of the three that I think you got right.

Similarly I think the bottom prong of the triangle must surely be the F terminal and as such should connect with the WG wire in your loom (regardless of the pigtail showing BLACK there.

My opinion only of course - and I may be wrong. (I see I appear to be differing from Rudi so being wrong is quite likely.)

 

[lostmarbles]

Rudi,

The test was positive - the black wire is 0.00 Ohms to the body of the ALT. Luckily I do have the W/B wire hooked to the E terminal (black wire) currently.

Did you perform the same test on the prong connected to the GREEN wire in the pigtail Dallas?

(I suggest you test all 3)

 

[lostmarbles]

Wait a minute. I've made a stuff-up. I'll edit the last couple of posts.

I swapped the words BLUE and BLACK in my second-to-last post but I've now corrected that error.

What's the result of your earth-continuity testing on all 3 prongs on that green alternator plug Dallas?

OK. I finished my editing for now (I think).

So hit me with your responses Rudi and Dallas......

 

[bj40green]

OK, one down two to go.
There are two wires left, Blue and Green. To figure this one out do the following.
Pick a wire let's say Blue. Do this test: Select ohm and meassure between this blue and the housing of the alt write down the reading. Reverese the test leads and do the same, write down the reading.
Hold on to the same Blue wire and do this test against the B lug and write down the reading.
Reverse the test leads and write down the reading again.

Now do the same with the Green wire.

The wire that reads two times very low ohms against the housing is the F wire.
The wire that reads one way low ohm and the other way OL (Open Loop / Infinity) against the B lug is the N wire.

Good luck

Rudi

Ps. Each wire can only pass one test. So if the Blue wire passes the Housing test it should fail the B lug test.
The same goes for the Green wire.

 

[dmaddox]

there are several ohm settings - im not sure which one to use, so the decimal is likely wrong here, but these are the results:

Blue to the housing, no result.
The housing to blue, no result.
Blue to the B-Lug - 462.
B-Lug to Blue, no result.

Green to the housing, 20.
Housing to green, 20 (i think).
Green to the B-Lug, 915.
B-Lug to Green, no result.

Black to the housing, 0.
Housing to black, 0 (i think).
Black to the B-Lug, 904.
B-Lug to black, no result.

I am not sure what all this means. But I also set the mult-meter to "continuity" and green to the housing - beeps. Black to the housing beeps. Strange, I dont know.

 

[bj40green]

Big ooooooops!!!!!

Oops 1: For the "B lug" test change the setting on the meter to the diode symbol. Looks like this: -►- or -◄-

Oops 2: The readings for E to Housing and F to housing are almost similar. The difference can be 0.1 ohm. The lowest one is the E wire.

Rudi

And thanks Tom for the PM.

 

[lostmarbles]

I'll just add right now that I will be very surprised if the plug/connector prong-layout doesn't match what's shown in this image exactly:



So I still suspect two loom wires are swapped on the alternator (with everything else being OK).

But I've leave you guys to do your testing now and to prove me wrong.

I'm at work ... and my boss has had the nerve to actually give me some work to do (that takes me away from the computer for the rest of the night.)

PS. Ignore the red stuff on the image this time. I don't have the time to wipe it out. I'm just looking at the 3-prong plug/connector mounted on the side of the alternator body.


Edit: I am saying in this post that I think the prong layout should match what is shown in the above FSM illustration EXACTLY .... yet in post # 426 (a bit further on & after Dallas had tried it and blown a fuse) I am saying the F and N prongs in this FSM illustration may be incorrectly swapped (compared to what Dallas actually has here).
Ah well...... I probably often contradict myself like this..........LOL
And it's interesting that Rudi's FSM photo (just below) backs up the FSM illustration (about the prong positions) ... yet I still .... at the time of editing this into this post .... recommend that Dallas swaps his F and N connections to see if that stops the fuse from blowing.

 

[bj40green]

In think Tom means this prong lay out:


Rudi

 

[bj40green]

there are several ohm settings - im not sure which one to use, so the decimal is likely wrong here, but these are the results:

Blue to the housing, no result.
The housing to blue, no result.
Blue to the B-Lug - 462.
B-Lug to Blue, no result.

Green to the housing, 20.
Housing to green, 20 (i think).
Green to the B-Lug, 915.
B-Lug to Green, no result.

Black to the housing, 0.
Housing to black, 0 (i think).
Black to the B-Lug, 904.
B-Lug to black, no result.

I am not sure what all this means. But I also set the mult-meter to "continuity" and green to the housing - beeps. Black to the housing beeps. Strange, I dont know.

Good job Dallas. I'll save you the explanation of these tests but the results are:

Black to Housing, 0 ohm, both ways is E (ground)
Green to Housing, 20 ohm, both ways is F (field)
Blue to "B lug" 462 ohm and the other way OL is N (current control)

Your DMM (Digital Multi Meter) has a BEEP function for low resistance.
It will beep for any value below 400 ohm.
!!!!! Very tricky when you are checking for grounds. !!!!!

So here is the prong set up.

Horizontal Top: E - Black connects to White Black
Vertical Left: F - Green connects to White Green
Vertical Right: N - Blue connects to White Blue

So the stripes are matching the full colors. Smart guy who did the overhaul.
Back to your posting, you have to swap the E and F wires.

Good luck, I'm going to sleep. It's 1.10 AM over here.

Hasta Manaña,

Rudi