dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

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OK.

I've looked back in the thread and you don't seem to have had any choice in the way you connected the EDIC motor.

I see that the motor pigtail had yellow, green and red wires that you connected to the same colour-coded wires in your loom nearby. And it had a white wire (but no blue wire) so you connected that white wire to the blue wire on your loom.

And R, G, Y & L are indeed the loom colour-codes shown in the FSM for the wiring between your EDIC relay and EDIC motor..

Were there any issues regarding how your EDIC relay got connected Dallas? (Was it something that your PO didn't touch and that he/she left factory-wired?)

:beer:

PS. It might pay to look under the top-cover of the EDIC motor to see what the electrical-contacts there look like. Perhaps your new-to-you EDIC-motor (or the old EDIC relay) are faulty?
 
Well :hhmm:

Really. Why are we stuffing around with the EDIC and alternator right now anyway?

The priority has surely got to be "giving your engine a little test run".

So I suggest ...
  • leave the alternator disconnected (with loom-side wires safely tucked away and protected from touching each other or earthing-out)
  • completely remove the EDIC arm so the IP lever sits in the mid-position
  • fit your mechanical oil pressure gauge (or at least keep a close eye on the stock gauge on your combination meter ... asuming you've fitted your combination meter)
  • ensure the engine has nice clean oil right up to the full mark (and perhaps even a little above that mark to assist the oil pump)
.... and crank it over to see if it runs.

If it does, and you haven't yet got any coolant present, I wouldn't run it for more than say 30 seconds though. And I'd kill the engine after say 7 seconds if you fail to see any oil pressure (by moving the little IP lever right forward).

But it would be nice to hear it running at this stage wouldn't it Dallas?

:beer:
 
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Light in the darkness....

Hi Dallas,

While you guys are sorting out the EDIC trouble, I went over the Alt wiring and can say: Forget what I said about changing the E and F wires. What I ment was: change the position of the wires in the connector. The actual hook up that you did was right :clap:. Please change it back to the previous situation.
Black to White Black, Green to White Green and Blue to White Blue is 100% correct. The only disadvantage is that when you ever have to swap your alternator your in trouble because of this. No worries, you can always bring this up to standard later with the picture of Toms alternator.

In the meantime I went over your Voltage Regulator hook up. As far as I can see you're on the right track here. I give it a 95% chance that it will work, but to make it a 100% I'll ask you to look at the bottom of your VR. I guess that the bottom is open and that you can see the spots where the wires are soldered in. Fat chance that the letters B, F, E, L, N and IGN are stamped in, next to the wires. Just to double check, please check that White/Red is connected to IGN stamp and the White to N stamp. If so you're 100% safe!

Good luck with the EDIC stuff. I wish I could help but I have the poor mans edition, so no EDIC for me.

Rudi
 
Bandit_guy said:
Here's the only thing I could find for the oll pressure switch to test

Maybe it will bring you the info you need I'll keep thinking away

The White Russians will help I'm sure
Click to expand...

Bandit_guy - this test passes. I have continuity with the motor off, and I have NO continuity with the motor running. So according to this, it passes.

I'll check the VR stamping in the motor to see what I can find out.

I appreciate you guys. I feel like we are a team.

-dallas
 
On the subject of testing EDIC motors, I think we covered that pretty well in Theo's/Tmarx's thread here Dallas:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...ic-fuel-control-relay-woes-please-help-3.html
(See post #55)

And back on the subject of the alternator wiring ....
bj40green said:
.....Please change it back to the previous situation.
Black to White Black, Green to White Green and Blue to White Blue is 100% correct. ...Rudi
Click to expand...

I guess Rudi must be placing more confidence in your ohm readings (than I am) by saying your "black alternator pigtail wire" is your earth. I still can't understand how your 2nd-hand alternator could have got its earth switched to a non-standard position on the plug/connector. So "based on position alone" I still regard the green as your alternator's most likely earth.
(I can accept the "field" and "neutral" positions being swapped, but not the earth position. Because in other connectors I believe Toyota similarly orientates the earth prong differently to the others so that it "stands out". And what possible reason could the alternator's PO have had for moving the earth?)

Perhaps time will tell .. as to which one of us is correct here LOL..

:beer:

PS. Disagreement is healthy of course. The world would be a boring place if we all agreed with each other.
 
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Just a couple of "by-the-way points" in this post here Dallas ....

dmaddox said:
Bandit_guy - this test passes. I have continuity with the motor off, and I have NO continuity with the motor running. So according to this, it passes.
-dallas
Click to expand...

That's VERY good news of course Dallas. It suggests you're achieving oil pressure.

(I understand some diesels have difficulty building up oil pressure when they are being cranked over for the first time after a long period of non-use.)

And I can't find it now, but I think I read you saying somewhere here that your primer pump became "hard" after you had bled your fuel filter and IP. whereupon you forced it down (so you could screw the top "home")..

Forcing it is not a good idea in my opinion. You'll find you can easily push it down once your engine is running so that's the best time to do it. (But I appreciate the fact that at this point in time your engine doesn't run.)

By forcing it without the engine running, I believe you are trying to force diesel backwards through closed valves. Whereas with the engine running, the engine-operated fuel pump is "bouncing the valves off their seats". (You can actually feel the "fuel pulses" as you gently push plunger down with the engine running and no real FORCE is required to push the plunger down then.)

:cheers:
 
Tom,

Thanks bud. Yes - I noticed that when cranking it over the pump went down more easily and it is now secured into place.

BigT and I just went out and fully tested the EDIC motor as you proposed in the other forum on post #55.

I hooked up the 24V to M - and sure enough the arm moved back and forth smoothly, with open circuits in the positions indicated correctly.

So, it appears the EDIC checks out.

What next? Why when I turn to start, it correctly goes to OI . . .but when I turn to the on position, it goes forward to STOP, and passes right by the "D - drive position".

Not getting the signal from the EDIC Relay??
 
Oil pressure is good do you gey 12 volts of the Yellow and thin black wire ? If so then that means on to something else. What does your relay box look like ? Is there lot's of corrosion or rust on it. I used to have a major leak in my rig and one night while driving in wet conditions the EDIC motor would cycle from off to overinject continuously and the engine ran real rough I pulled the fuse and ripped the arm off and made it home. Also I've heard of corrosion in the motor itself not allowing for the contacts to be made in the spot on the motor. From what I remember contact cleaner in the motor solved the problem. I don't know I think I'm just brain storming right now. Hoping to spark another Idea somewhere.

By the way what Rudi said about the Alternator wiring in post 446 matches the way it's set up on my rig. The wires are the exact same as your picture
 
Yup the engine has to be running. It always takes a seconde or two the read on the volt meter once the engine has started. I'm thinking that's how long it takes oil pressure to build up. If yours goes to off right away I think it's motor or relay related. Or some broken connection somewhere I'll keep thinking about this.
 
Well, the motor test Tom provided seems to have given the EDIC MOTOR a clean bill of health.

My guess is somewhere between the oil sensor wire and the green wire going to the EDIC MOTOR "from" the EDIC RELAY. Somewhere between those two the signal is getting lost. Let's pray the RELAY is OK.

I did a continuity test from the y/b wire on the oil sensor to the EDIC RELAY and it checked out....but I am not sure if it's getting 12V yet for sure either.....I'm tired and rambling now - sorry.
 
dmaddox said:
.....
BigT and I just went out and fully tested the EDIC motor as you proposed in the other forum on post #55.
I hooked up the 24V to M - and sure enough the arm moved back and forth smoothly, with open circuits in the positions indicated correctly.
So, it appears the EDIC checks out. ...
Click to expand...

I agree. (There's nothing wrong with your EDIC motor then.)

..Why when I turn to start, it correctly goes to OI . . .but when I turn to the on position, it goes forward to STOP, and passes right by the "D - drive position".
Not getting the signal from the EDIC Relay??
Click to expand...

Well it is good to see it going to overinject whenever your key is in the "start" position Dallas.

But I understand you haven't been able to keep your engine running yet (even for 10 seconds).

So ... Without your engine "firing up properly" with your key in the "start position", your oil switch won't sense any oil pressure. So when you return your key to the "on" position, the EDIC system should indeed move your IP lever back into the stop position (where it was with your key "off").

However, in an earlier post you said that you turned your key to the "on" position with your oil switch disconnected and still found your IP lever sat in the "Stop" position. (The lever should actually sit in the "mid/run" position in this test ... regardless of whether your engine is running or not.)
This here is the "pointer" to the problem in my view.

Maybe the EDIC system isn't receiving the signal from the ignition switch to know that your key is "on".?

But I can't look into this further right now because I don't have the wiring diagram with me.

:beer:

Edit: Did you replace the fuse you blew when testing your alternator Dallas? (Sorry ... I don't have wiring diagram in front of me so I don't know whether this is relevant or not anyway.)
 
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Bandit_guy said:
....... By the way what Rudi said about the Alternator wiring in post 446 matches the way it's set up on my rig. The wires are the exact same as your picture
Click to expand...

Hi Bandit,
Thanks for this info, this helps us to figure this out. Can you tell us the lay-out of the prongs related to the colors?
So which color is on top, which on bottom left and which on bottom right? Just to cross the t's and dot the i's.

Thanks for your help,

Rudi
 
dmaddox said:
Tom,

Why when I turn to start, it correctly goes to OI . . .but when I turn to the on position, it goes forward to STOP, and passes right by the "D - drive position".

Not getting the signal from the EDIC Relay??
Click to expand...

How does it react when you thereafter switch the key to the OFF position ? Any further movement from the FCM arm/rod ? :hhmm:
 
Good morning FRIENDS!

I really had a hard time falling asleep last night as I was going over wiring diagrams, possible issues, and so forth. Here are my thoughts this morning.

#1: Oil sensor (tested as a good sensor) OFF/DISCONNECTED: The EDIC still does nothing until I turn the key to START, upon which it moves to the O.I. position. When I "let go" of START and the key springs back to "ON" the EDIC shoves the rod to "STOP".

#2: Oil sensor ON/CONNECTED: The EDIC does nothing until I turn the key to START (expected behavior I am being told), upon which it moves to the O.I. position. When the 3B appears to be coughing to life....I release the key - which rolls it back to the "ON" position and IMMEDIATELY (no hesitation) the EDIC shoves the rod forward to the "STOP" position.

Thoughts:

1. I find it interesting that with the oil sensor unplugged the EDIC doesn't move to the mid "D" position when I turn the key to "ON".

2. I find it interesting with the oil sesnor plugged in that the EDIC IMMEDIATLY moves the rod to the STOP position after I release the key from the "start" position after the 3B appears to be started.

3. I have tested the oil sensor, continuity between the oil sensor and edic RELAY, and the EDIC motor - and they all test as GOOD.

4. Call me crazy - but wouldn't this mean there is an ISSUE somewhere between the EDIC relay and the EDIC motor? Why was I earlier testing the GREEN wire at the EDIC MOTOR - is the green wire what sends the signal to stop at the "D" position?

I am going to go out and test continuity on all wires between the EDIC motor and relay. I'll report back.
 
Exactly the green wire out of the relay goes to the EDIC motor. When you release the key the green wire gets the power out of the relay almost instantly to hold the EDIC arm in D (drive) positon.

-2 C this morning I'm getting my mittis on and going to take picture of Alternator wiring
 
Bandit_guy said:
Exactly the green wire out of the relay goes to the EDIC motor. When you release the key the green wire gets the power out of the relay almost instantly to hold the EDIC arm in D (drive) positon.

-2 C this morning I'm getting my mittis on and going to take picture of Alternator wiring
Click to expand...

Awwwww - thanks Bandit!!!

So hear me out on this idea. IF the green wire is supposed to supply the "D" open circuit as the arm on the motor comes forward with 12V - it doesn't appear that it is. So, I keep thinking bad relay or something...I don't know.
 
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