dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread! (1 Viewer)

[dmaddox]

A few more things Tom.

There aren't any fuseable links. I'm going go buy some.

I think my problem here that I am trying to decipher is Which way wires go. For example the two smaller WL - they should go to two 5A fuses in a black box - but then where does that go?

Also, I have another horn. Does someone have a picture of what they look like mounted together/plugged in?

Watch the evening news...there may be a missing persons case....because I need to capture the PO to find out exactly WHAT THE !@#$ HE WAS THINKING.

Anyone is welcome to come on over!! FUN? ha ha ha - maybe.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Also, I have another horn. Does someone have a picture of what they look like mounted together/plugged in?

Dallas: the other horn mounts on the other side of the radiator cradle, down low. Here's the best pic I have of the left horn.


That white plug looks just like our horn plugs. The other horn plug runs with the headlight wiring harness to the left side of the engine bay, and then attaches to the horn itself.

That nest of awesome wiring I see near your VR looks like the PO simply cut the original VR plug off.

Dan

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I have no helpful advice because..... well, to be honest I just skimmed over the blower discussion. Just wanted to say - Nice work in finding the 40 series top plate!

 

[lostmarbles]

the fan at 24V resistor must be (pardon my English), as in the picture below (I think I have a spare somewhere)

Yes. I was expecting to see a dropper-resistor to enable Dallas's heater blower to run at two different speeds too YORSIAN.

But then I'm disadvantaged in that my BJ40 is 1979 (rather than 1981 like Dallas's BJ42) and 12V (instead of 24V).

What year, voltage and model is that green cruiser (or what's left of it)?

.....
I am not sure but don't think it had an electric winch.
..............
If this had A/C and an electric winch the PO is even more criminal.
-dallas

When a customer (or market) chooses an "option" like "AC" or "electric winch", I believe the basic loom has to cater for it.

I believe that's why I have unused connectors in my BJ40 loom (in various places).

And I believe Toyota also used the same basic loom for various different models and even between 12V and 24V versions of those models.

So what I'm saying is ..."You may have wires there in the loom for something your cruiser was never fitted with."

...
There aren't any fuseable links. I'm going go buy some...

Good idea. You certainly need to protect your wiring (and to protect your vehicle from getting automatically "torched" as a result of a wiring short-circuit).

...I think my problem here that I am trying to decipher is Which way wires go. For example the two smaller WL - they should go to two 5A fuses in a black box - but then where does that go?

Does this help?

Dallas: the other horn mounts on the other side of the radiator cradle, down low. Here's the best pic I have of the left horn.
View attachment 552782

That white plug looks just like our horn plugs. The other horn plug runs with the headlight wiring harness to the left side of the engine bay, and then attaches to the horn itself.

Dan

But, is that blue cruiser a 1981 24V BJ42 Dan?

My 1979 BJ40 has the "high pitched" and "low pitched" horns on the SAME side of the radiator.

(Truth is .... I don't know whether the horns on Dallas's BJ42 should be same-side or opposite-sides although it surprises me that Toyota would put them on opposite sides for any model because it complicates the wiring without gaining any real advantage.)

 

[dmaddox]

Getting wired!!!

Ugh...this wiring mess is killing me.

I was bored this afternoon so I decided to try my hand at making a video so that perhaps this may be easier to see what my wiring problems are.

Sorry to keep asking the same questions, I just need to make sure I get this wired correctly.

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE VIDEO:

BJ42 Wiring Questions - YouTube

I have also uploaded some pictures for discussion.

 

[dmaddox]

Don't kill me Rudi (it's always nice to have spares), But, it appears that when I took apart the steering column, we have a DIFFERENT situation going on.

First, the wire-splicing mess - was the TURN-SIGNAL assembly. Are they 12/24V??

I found something QUITE INTERESTING......

IGNITION TUMBLER: That is what prohibits me from moving the key backward into a "glow position"

I stuck a flat screwdriver into the IGNITION SWITCH...and guess what? It has a reverse "glow" position.

So....I need to find a "GLOW" lockable (has the button on top) IGNITION TUMBLER. Looks like Toyota might have them for 200 bucks new. Damn.

cheers,

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Dallas,

Let's start with this little photo where I've zoomed in on a little section of one of your photos:



Hopefully I've explained clearly enough where everything goes there except for dealing with the small wires.

The small black one goes to the opposite side of one of the fusible links from the "24V +Ve battery terminal" as I've tried to draw in green.

Now one of the little WL wires goes to the other side of the same fusible link but you'll have to use a multimeter to work out which one. (Remove the 5A fuse in the WL-side of the twin-fuse box and ascertain which WL-wire connects there using a multimeter set on the ohms scale.)

Once you've done that ... check out the other little WL wire. If it leads to the B terminal of your EDIC relay (aka Fuel Control Relay) then connect it to your battery's 24V +Ve terminal too with another fusible link (which should once again be sized "two gauges smaller").

Cheers
Tom

PS. Here's some photos of my fusible links that may be of help.

Note that Toyota covers them in "fabric sleeves" to control the "spatter" should they blow. They also place them between connectors for ease of replacement (but I doubt I'd bother copying that if I was you).





PPS. Those small-gauge wires in the last photo (WL and B) connect either side of the main fusible link and supply the voltage that my ammeter is driven off. (High current flow through the fusible link causes a voltage drop across its ends and my/your ammeter is really a voltmeter that is callibrated in current-units.)

 

[lostmarbles]

So hopefully that's the driver's side all figured out now, with the exception of those two LR wires Dallas.

It is possible the two LR wires are supposed to simply connect together.

I have a pair of plugs near there on my BJ40 (different colour-codes though) that have always been unconnected. If I plug the male and female plugs together I see no effect .... So I've always left them dangling and unconnected.

Soooo. Since that LR colour-code doesn't represent anything important (to me at least), I'd just tape them together in such a way that they can't make electrical contact with each other or anything else.

Then ....... when you're "up and running" and find something like ... "wipers won't work" ... perhaps you good look into those wires again. (But I'd forget about them for now.)

Hey ... Did I post this photo before? (I'm not sure but I see it is sitting here on my computer.)



(Just another little thing that's easy to explain.)

 

[dmaddox]

Now one of the little WL wires goes to the other side of the same fusible link but you'll have to use a multimeter to work out which one. (Remove the 5A fuse in the WL-side of the twin-fuse box and ascertain which WL-wire connects there using a multimeter set on the ohms scale.)

Wonderful, YES!!

Now, just to clarify - the two WL wires. I'll open the loom to see which one goes through the 5A fuse box, and which one goes into the firewall (I'll try to trace it to the EDIC Relay).

When you say "The other side of the same fusible link" Do you mean:

1. The WL wire that comes from the 5A goes directly on the +Bat. (Wouldn't this pop a 5A fuse?)
2. The WL wire that comes from the EDIC Relay goes into a fusible link.

I am an idiot I know - I'm just wondering what you mean by "the other side of the same fusible link".

I am headed in the right direction - THANK YOU SO MUCH.

best,

 

[lostmarbles]

Now for the right hand side of your motor (which is my driver's-side and your passenger's-side).

To determine which YB wire is the oil sender and which is the oil switch, you could use a multimeter to find which one connects to the "YB oil" on your combination meter connector:



Let's leave the alternator/regulator wiring for now because I can see your problem there in the video Dallas. And if we connect up all the easy stuff first, it will make it easier to work out what to do with what's left.

Here's what you're looking for with the "oil switch" and "oil sender" Dallas. (Yours will be in slightly different places on your engine but will look almost identical to mine.)



And here's the temperature sender (and the same thing applies there with yours looking the same but maybe being in a slightly different location)



That's all from me for now.

 

[dmaddox]

BEAUTIFUL! This is exactly what I need. I truly hope this doesn't just benefit me - but for all of us that are working on/fixing/correcting/repairing wiring on our B/3B Diesel cruisers.

Amazing information being collected here.

thanks a million!

 

[bj40green]

Hi Dallas,

YOU WROTE:
So....I need to find a "GLOW" lockable (has the button on top) IGNITION TUMBLER. Looks like Toyota might have them for 200 bucks new. ****.

There are 2 versions of this "bracket" . With or without the steering lock.


I'm afraid that this bracket is a bit more expensive then you think. I saw $340 at Toyodiy.com.

Can't you modify the one you have?

Rudi

 

[lostmarbles]

.... I'll open the loom to see which one goes through the 5A fuse box....

Heck!

Opening the loom is what a "PO butcher" does Dallas. Why not use a non-invasive method? ie. Why not use a multimeter?

If you don't have a multimeter .... I think you N-E-E-D to get one

Sh#t. They're only $15 or something like that for pretty good ones these days.

....When you say "The other side of the same fusible link" Do you mean:

1. The WL wire that comes from the 5A goes directly on the +Bat. (Wouldn't this pop a 5A fuse?)
2. The WL wire that comes from the EDIC Relay goes into a fusible link.

I am an idiot I know - I'm just wondering what you mean by "the other side of the same fusible link".
.....

The little black wire goes to the downstream-side of the main fusible link while the little WL wire (that is connected to one of the 5A fuses) goes to the upstream/battery-side of the main/same fusible link.

Why should a fuse pop?

When there is no charge or discharge current flowing in the fusible link there will be roughly 24V +Ve fed into both the B and WL wires. So your ammeter will have 24V +Ve on both its terminals. This is the same voltage! So no current will flow within the ammeter and the needle won't move.

But a discharge current in that same fusible link (eg. headlights turned on with engine turned off) will cause a voltage drop across the ends of the fusible link (because the link has RESISTANCE and Ohm's Law applies). And the little wires feed this voltage to your ammeter terminals. So the ammeter needle moves to the left to show a discharge. (As I recall, 0.3V gives a full-scale/50A needle-deflection.)

Similarly a charge current (eg. engine running straight after cranking/start-up) will make the ammeter needle move right.

Well that's the theory anyway..... Damned ammeters don't really perform very well in reality!!!

Oh. And if you find the OTHER little WL wire does indeed go to your EDIC relay's B terminal (which I think it should), then you connect it to your battery's 24V +Ve terminal (exactly the same as you connect the other two WL wires). And to protect this little wire from erupting in flames (should it rub on the bodywork somewhere and wear through its insulation), you need to again install a fusible link in it somewhere close to the battery end.

Clear as mud?

 

[bj40green]

Starter switch bracket

Dallas,

I was thinking (my always says; leave that to a horse, a horse has a bigger head...... ) why don't you put this on the backburner for the moment.
You have the glow switch on the dash so you can do the pre glow with that switch until you find the right bracket.

Rudi

 

[lostmarbles]

It's just after 4.30am NZ-time here Dallas.

No. I'm not an insomniac but I have to be at the ferry terminal by 5.30am to catch a ferry south (driving the BJ40 of course).

I'm about to start 3 days of scrubcutting down there, much of it in very steep terrain. (Bit hard for a geriatric like me too.)

Anyways..... I was thinking while semi-awake & debating whether to get up or not....

I wonder if your inability to move your "ignition key" to all positions is related to your steering lock.

Have you tried turning your key with the little button depressed?





PS. You won't hear more from me for a couple of days.

 

[dmaddox]

Tom - what you show in the picture there is what I need. My current tumbler does not have a button to release a lock.

I'm going to start the search this week for:

24V Heater blower fan and a diesel locking tumbler.

Be safe out there!

PS. Rudi - you are right, I may not worry about this just yet, but start the search in the meantime.

all the best,

 

[dmaddox]

With your help, it appears we have the driver side solved.

 

[dmaddox]

Monday morning update! Just so you guys know a bit more about me, I am a 33 year old techie Dad with 4 kids - been married 15 years, grew up on a large wheat farm in north central Montana and love to work on cruisers. This wiring stuff is all new for me. I can run a paint gun like a champ and weld well, but electricity is a new concept I am learning. I appreciate your patience as I learn not only wiring, but 24V. I've been lucky with cruisers in the past.

With that being said, Tom - I think you'd be proud of me.

I HAVE a multi-meter, but don't know how to use them. So, I spent an hour this morning reading over the user manual and watching some youtube videos on how they work.

I used the "Continuity test" to find which YB wire was the oil sender:

After that, I found some YB wire, soldered ends onto them and shrink-tube protected all three wires.

My temperature sending unit is on the opposite side (since this 3B is out of a BJ60 I'm guessing the wire was on the other side - no biggie).

I had to route the temp wire on a safe path to the sending unit.

Those three wires are soldered, protected, and connected.

Now, while messing around with the horn wires, I found this thick RB wire. I couldn't find it on the wiring diagram. Thoughts? Its on the right side (as you face it) of the radiator in the same loom as the left headlight bundle. Notice the plug on the end. Hmmmm

'preciate you guys!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

That R-B wire/plug doesn't ring a bell for me......

Glad to see you're learning a bit with the multimeter. The things you need to know for automotive use are really how to check continuity, voltage, and perhaps resistance (not that very low resistance is continuity).

Once you know that stuff, you'll want to keep one in your glovebox all the time, because it's amazing how useful they can be on the side of the road.

Dan

 

[bj40green]

Dallas,

The RB (Red-Black) wire comes from the "lighter fuse" and goes to:
a: The cigarette lighter with dropper resistor.
b: Interior light & switch.
c: Inspection light socket.



I've no idea what it's doing there under the hood because all these things are in the cabin unless my diagram is not correct.

Good luck

Rudi