dmaddox said:
Yeah i want to find an old one with the big push buttons for tuners. ..
Those old radios always seemed to get better am reception...but that could just be my imagination...
dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!
- Thread starter dmaddox
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Yeah i want to find an old one with the big push buttons for tuners. ..
Those old radios always seemed to get better am reception...but that could just be my imagination...
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #363
Ok, back to the wiring. I have to finish up the Voltage Regulator and the Alternator along with a couple other wires just hanging around on the passenger side.
I know that some of these go to the VR and some go to the ALT. But, I am not sure what fires feed what and in what direction they are going. We are getting closer.
First are these two WL wires (one thicker, one thinner) that are connected to a battery cable just hanging there. So I dont know which battery terminal these connect to. (I am guessing "+" on the right side).
Two other wires hanging just below the same area.
Now, about midway back towards the firewall:
and...
and then by the firewall:
Note these don't include the blue wires going to the heater motor, I've set those aside for now.
I have the wiring diagram here and have a general idea with what we have already discussed in prior postings. I am just trying to understand the series of connections, what goes to the VR vs. the ALT, and in which direction the current flows.
All the best and THANKS,
I know that some of these go to the VR and some go to the ALT. But, I am not sure what fires feed what and in what direction they are going. We are getting closer.
First are these two WL wires (one thicker, one thinner) that are connected to a battery cable just hanging there. So I dont know which battery terminal these connect to. (I am guessing "+" on the right side).
Two other wires hanging just below the same area.
Now, about midway back towards the firewall:
and...
and then by the firewall:
Note these don't include the blue wires going to the heater motor, I've set those aside for now.
I have the wiring diagram here and have a general idea with what we have already discussed in prior postings. I am just trying to understand the series of connections, what goes to the VR vs. the ALT, and in which direction the current flows.
All the best and THANKS,
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #364
According to the manual, there is only 4 wires supplying the two units.
The Yellow and thin BY go to the regulator.
A WB goes and splits to both the ALT and Regulator.
A WL goes and splits to both the ALT and Regulator.
I am not sure if this is the thin or thick WL or where that goes.
THEN....there are two wires that are solely between the two units a WG and a WL.
So, I am only confused more. Yay!
The Yellow and thin BY go to the regulator.
A WB goes and splits to both the ALT and Regulator.
A WL goes and splits to both the ALT and Regulator.
I am not sure if this is the thin or thick WL or where that goes.
THEN....there are two wires that are solely between the two units a WG and a WL.
So, I am only confused more. Yay!
I have had an 81, 82, and 84 BJ42 all 3 had the style of air cleaner like pic #2. All of mine were Canadian as i had them in Vancouver.
BTW great thread
BTW great thread
You'll have to be very careful when you install your batteries for the first time Dallas.
You'll have two batteries in series there giving a LOT of firepower!
There is a lower-stage one and a higher-stage one. You must connect the negative of the lower-stage one to your body/chassis (and for this I recommend having a big thick cable from this terminal-clamp to your bodywork AND another big thick one from there to a bolt somewhere on your engine).
Then you'll need another big thick cable (with terminal-clamps either end) connecting the + Ve terminal of that lower-stage battery to the -Ve terminal of the higher-stage one.
Then you'll need to connect the positive terminal on your upper-stage battery with another big fat cable to your starter motor solenoid.
So when you connect up your cruiser for the first time .... If I was you I'd connect it up just like that ... and nothing more.
That's is
Then .................with no fireworks appearing so far ....
you could maybe use a small gauge wire (even smaller than your fusible links) for making a temporary connection of "your loom" to your +Ve terminal of your higher-stage battery (where you have 24V +Ve relative to the body/chassis/engine) as you try out various things.
Obviously this "temporary safety wire" will have to be of higher-gauge when you test out the operation of components that draw higher current ... such as your glow plugs (50A initially dropping down quite rapidly to about 20A), and your heater fan (which again draws quite high current ... - Much higher than headlights say....)
And I'd leave the headlight testing for last .... which is when you'll need to try to connect "the evil centre-tap".
Whatever you do, you don't want to end up frying stuff you've taken a lot of trouble and $$$ to source.
Anyway ... just thought I'd better say this BEFORE you get to the fitting your new batteries.
Sorry ....Can't comment further at this stage because I have no more spare time today.
Maybe Rudi has some ideas on those wires?
You'll have two batteries in series there giving a LOT of firepower!
There is a lower-stage one and a higher-stage one. You must connect the negative of the lower-stage one to your body/chassis (and for this I recommend having a big thick cable from this terminal-clamp to your bodywork AND another big thick one from there to a bolt somewhere on your engine).
Then you'll need another big thick cable (with terminal-clamps either end) connecting the + Ve terminal of that lower-stage battery to the -Ve terminal of the higher-stage one.
Then you'll need to connect the positive terminal on your upper-stage battery with another big fat cable to your starter motor solenoid.
So when you connect up your cruiser for the first time .... If I was you I'd connect it up just like that ... and nothing more.
That's is
- Don't connect "the evil centre-tap"
- And don't connect anything else to your batteries other than those BIG leads
Then .................with no fireworks appearing so far ....
you could maybe use a small gauge wire (even smaller than your fusible links) for making a temporary connection of "your loom" to your +Ve terminal of your higher-stage battery (where you have 24V +Ve relative to the body/chassis/engine) as you try out various things.
Obviously this "temporary safety wire" will have to be of higher-gauge when you test out the operation of components that draw higher current ... such as your glow plugs (50A initially dropping down quite rapidly to about 20A), and your heater fan (which again draws quite high current ... - Much higher than headlights say....)
And I'd leave the headlight testing for last .... which is when you'll need to try to connect "the evil centre-tap".
Whatever you do, you don't want to end up frying stuff you've taken a lot of trouble and $$$ to source.
Anyway ... just thought I'd better say this BEFORE you get to the fitting your new batteries.
Sorry ....Can't comment further at this stage because I have no more spare time today.
Maybe Rudi has some ideas on those wires?
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
And here is Rudi, and yes I have something to ad to Toms good advice.
Before you hook up your loom, take out all the fuses from the fuse box.
When you passed the first checks without problems start putting the fuses in one by one.
Start with the fuses for direct power.
Test all the circuits from the first fuse. Now put the next fuse in and test.... and test.
Continue with the fuses that are powered by the IGN key and so on until all are in place.
That's the way I would do it.
I keep my fingers crossed for you Dallas.
Rudi
Before you hook up your loom, take out all the fuses from the fuse box.
When you passed the first checks without problems start putting the fuses in one by one.
Start with the fuses for direct power.
Test all the circuits from the first fuse. Now put the next fuse in and test.... and test.
Continue with the fuses that are powered by the IGN key and so on until all are in place.
That's the way I would do it.
I keep my fingers crossed for you Dallas.
Rudi
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
Dallas, I'll try to take over from Tom, but my Englisch is a bit different. Here we go.
* WL (thin) is from the N terminal of the VR (from the firewall) to the N terminal on the ALT.
* WL (thick) is from the the IGN key (firewall) to fusible link on +Ve 24V battery post.
* There must be another WL (thick) that runs between the B lug on the ALT to that same fusible link.
--NOTE: The WL thick is the main power line to (charge) and from (discharge/users) your battery.
* WG runs between the F terminal VR and F terminal ALT.
* BY from firewall comes from the "engine" fuse and Manual Glow Switch and goes to the EDIC relay and to the IGN terminal on the VR.
* WB is a or "the" ground wire. I'm not sure if this one is the main ground that bolts to the firewall or fender or goes to or comes from the E terminal on the ALT and VR. I think it's the last one.
I think all the wires are covered now. Let us know if you have other questions.
Good luck
Rudi
* WL (thin) is from the N terminal of the VR (from the firewall) to the N terminal on the ALT.
* WL (thick) is from the the IGN key (firewall) to fusible link on +Ve 24V battery post.
* There must be another WL (thick) that runs between the B lug on the ALT to that same fusible link.
--NOTE: The WL thick is the main power line to (charge) and from (discharge/users) your battery.
* WG runs between the F terminal VR and F terminal ALT.
* BY from firewall comes from the "engine" fuse and Manual Glow Switch and goes to the EDIC relay and to the IGN terminal on the VR.
* WB is a or "the" ground wire. I'm not sure if this one is the main ground that bolts to the firewall or fender or goes to or comes from the E terminal on the ALT and VR. I think it's the last one.
I think all the wires are covered now. Let us know if you have other questions.
Good luck
Rudi
Hi Dallas
As usual, I agree with everything Rudi has said above.
But at the last minute I threw my 36044 FSM into my bag as I left for work so I am in a position to comment more today after all. (Although I may have to click "submit" before I'm ready if my boss comes in and gives me another job all of a sudden.)
So... Firstly let me reinforce that I'm not personally familiar with 24V cruisers. So, for instance, I don't know which battery tray holds which battery .. which makes it hard for me to work out where your 24V +Ve battery-terminal sits in relation to other things on your cruiser.
Now to proceed as best I can with everyone knowing that I have this handicap ....
So this is the right-hand side towards the front?
And that's near your alternator?
Why do you think the wires should go to one of your battery terminals Dallas?
I thought we had sorted out those wires to your battery terminals before anyway in post # 308.
BTW - AFAIK -The 24V +Ve post is the only one that should have wires attached to it anyway. (In making this statement, I'm ignoring that "evil centre tap wire" that exits the loom as "RB colour-code" and I'm also ignoring those "REALLY THICK wires with clamps on their ends" which are really "cables" rather than "wires").
So ..if the position of these wires suits my theory.... I think this thick WL actually goes to your alternator's "B lug" while the thinner WL wire goes to its N terminal.
Well, following on from what I said above, I think these are likely to be the remaining two wires for your alternator.
WG connects to the F terminal, and
WB connects to the E terminal
If I'm correct (& maybe that's a big IF), then that's your alternator sorted.
OK, we have WL, WB, WG, WB here
Check with your multimeter that you have continuity between this WL and the WL that attaches to your alternator's N terminal. If so, then this connects to your regulator's N terminal.
Check with your multimeter that you have continuity between this WG wire and the WG wire that attaches to your alternator's F terminal. If so, this connects to your regulator's F terminal.
Check with your multimeter that you have continuity between one of the two WB wires and the WB wire that attaches to your alternator's E terminal. If so, this one connects to your regulator's E terminal.
Now we have an extra earth (WB) left over!
Does this one already have continuity with the body/chassis of your cruiser?
Maybe leave it tied up out of the way and "flagged" for now ...and sort it out when you come to fitting the batteries and seeing what works and what doesn't?
Let's leave it at that for this post....
(I'll place another shortly .... with luck)
As usual, I agree with everything Rudi has said above.
But at the last minute I threw my 36044 FSM into my bag as I left for work so I am in a position to comment more today after all. (Although I may have to click "submit" before I'm ready if my boss comes in and gives me another job all of a sudden.)
So... Firstly let me reinforce that I'm not personally familiar with 24V cruisers. So, for instance, I don't know which battery tray holds which battery .. which makes it hard for me to work out where your 24V +Ve battery-terminal sits in relation to other things on your cruiser.
Now to proceed as best I can with everyone knowing that I have this handicap ....
So this is the right-hand side towards the front?
And that's near your alternator?
Why do you think the wires should go to one of your battery terminals Dallas?
I thought we had sorted out those wires to your battery terminals before anyway in post # 308.
BTW - AFAIK -The 24V +Ve post is the only one that should have wires attached to it anyway. (In making this statement, I'm ignoring that "evil centre tap wire" that exits the loom as "RB colour-code" and I'm also ignoring those "REALLY THICK wires with clamps on their ends" which are really "cables" rather than "wires").
So ..if the position of these wires suits my theory.... I think this thick WL actually goes to your alternator's "B lug" while the thinner WL wire goes to its N terminal.
Well, following on from what I said above, I think these are likely to be the remaining two wires for your alternator.
WG connects to the F terminal, and
WB connects to the E terminal
If I'm correct (& maybe that's a big IF), then that's your alternator sorted.
OK, we have WL, WB, WG, WB here
Check with your multimeter that you have continuity between this WL and the WL that attaches to your alternator's N terminal. If so, then this connects to your regulator's N terminal.
Check with your multimeter that you have continuity between this WG wire and the WG wire that attaches to your alternator's F terminal. If so, this connects to your regulator's F terminal.
Check with your multimeter that you have continuity between one of the two WB wires and the WB wire that attaches to your alternator's E terminal. If so, this one connects to your regulator's E terminal.
Now we have an extra earth (WB) left over!
Does this one already have continuity with the body/chassis of your cruiser?
Maybe leave it tied up out of the way and "flagged" for now ...and sort it out when you come to fitting the batteries and seeing what works and what doesn't?
Let's leave it at that for this post....
(I'll place another shortly .... with luck)
I'd say this is another regulator wire and goes to the B terminal of your regulator.
OK. Here you're holding two wires (Y and BY)
I suspect these are your last two regulator wires with Y connecting to your L terminal and BY connecting to your IG terminal
How does all that sound Dallas?
BTW ... Make sure your PO hasn't swapped out 24V bulbs for 12V bulbs in your tail lights, indicators etc before fitting your batteries and testing things.
Wow you Mud guys are just fantastic.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #373
Okay....I have this all mapped out on paper and am ready to attack. These Mud guys are fantastic. Not to side-track here and sound all religious.....but with all of the earthquakes, tsunami's, tornadoes, evils, and other issues in this world.....the media and "gossip" always seems to focus on the negative.
I guess that's why I love cruisers and this community so much. We focus on the good, we focus on helping each other. We have something here in this community that brings us (ultimately, because I know this BJ42 is a PAIN) happiness and joy. When people help me, I feel enabled and my day is lighter. I appreciate and love that so much GOOD is still going on.
Anyway - I have this all down on paper and am excited to attack the system and get it figured out. I am picking up batteries today.
As a side note, I have removed all tail lights, turn signals, etc.. and unplugged most of everything. I wonder if my local parts store even has 24V bulbs - I'll have to check.
A big thank you to Tom and Rudi - you guys have helped me so much. I am also meeting and gathering even more friends through this build - I appreciate you guys too.
This....is FUN.
I'll update soon on the progress.
I guess that's why I love cruisers and this community so much. We focus on the good, we focus on helping each other. We have something here in this community that brings us (ultimately, because I know this BJ42 is a PAIN) happiness and joy. When people help me, I feel enabled and my day is lighter. I appreciate and love that so much GOOD is still going on.
Anyway - I have this all down on paper and am excited to attack the system and get it figured out. I am picking up batteries today.
As a side note, I have removed all tail lights, turn signals, etc.. and unplugged most of everything. I wonder if my local parts store even has 24V bulbs - I'll have to check.
A big thank you to Tom and Rudi - you guys have helped me so much. I am also meeting and gathering even more friends through this build - I appreciate you guys too.
This....is FUN.
I'll update soon on the progress.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #375
I brought home two new batteries this afternoon (pictures forthcoming).
I hooked them up as per above and approached with caution. No sparks, no fireworks. So I put a multi-meter on the batteries. Each battery had 12.6V - then when I tested the negative on the passenger side to the positive on the driver side they had 25.2V.
This must be good news
Little by little.....
The purist in you might not agree but a 100$ solar converter battery equalizer is a must if you want the batteries to last. It' s a 24v to 12 volt converter plus a battery equalizer that will send power from you high one to the low one keeping them within 0.2 volts. Having a diesel that starts a -30C unplugged has made be a believer of saving your batteries. There's lot's of info here on mud but I'll show my set up in new thread.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
I brought home two new batteries this afternoon (pictures forthcoming).
I hooked them up as per above and approached with caution. No sparks, no fireworks. So I put a multi-meter on the batteries. Each battery had 12.6V - then when I tested the negative on the passenger side to the positive on the driver side they had 25.2V.
This must be good news
Little by little.....
Hi Dallas, that is really good news.
Now continue, step by step, connecting circuits by touching connectors to each other, watching for sparks before you hook them up permanently.
A good method is having the Volt meter connected to the battery (24V) and looking for voltage drop the moment you hook up a new circuit.
Keep us posted with every step you make. We
whoops: I mean you) are almost there.Rudi
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #379
Great!!! And I'm sorry to sound like a electricity newbie, but a drop in voltage as I connect circuits is a bad thing - because that means something is pulling volts (grounding/shorting/or turned on). But, if I connect a circuit up and the voltage on the battery remains the same, that's a good thing, I assume.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
See, you're not a newbie. You got the jist of it.
