dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Wow. I've only been away 3 days and there's so much to catch up with in this thread!

I think I'll have to do more than one post here...

.... but electricity is a new concept I am learning. I appreciate your patience as I learn not only wiring, but 24V. I've been lucky with cruisers in the past.
With that being said, Tom - I think you'd be proud of me.
I HAVE a multi-meter, but don't know how to use them. So, I spent an hour this morning reading over the user manual and watching some youtube videos on how they work.
I used the "Continuity test" to find which YB wire was the oil sender:
After that, I found some YB wire, soldered ends onto them and shrink-tube protected all three wires.
My temperature sending unit is on the opposite side (since this 3B is out of a BJ60 I'm guessing the wire was on the other side - no biggie).
I had to route the temp wire on a safe path to the sending unit.
Those three wires are soldered, protected, and connected.

:clap:Well done Dallas. Looking good!

...Now, while messing around with the horn wires, I found this thick RB wire. I couldn't find it on the wiring diagram. Thoughts? Its on the right side (as you face it) of the radiator in the same loom as the left headlight bundle. Notice the plug on the end. Hmmmm ........

Using my new multimeter skills, I traced that thick RB wire.
It is hanging CUT, right next to the 12V dimmer relay. Great. Still, that large connecter doesn't make sense....

Yes. The 1981 BJ4# series wiring diagram for USA & Canada in the 1980 Chassis & Body 36044 FSM shows an RB wire (with protecting fusible link) running from the lower-stage battery's +Ve terminal to your "dimmer relay" and "RH headlight".

..This picture is taken THROUGH the opening of the ash-tray. Some wires are cut here - so I'll have to fix where they cut them:
.............
Dash light appears to be hacked:

Damn!!! :mad:

...There are three-four plugs in the "area" behind the gauge cluster:

I think this one may (I'm not 100% certain) plug into the back of your combination meter to make your "ammeter" and "high-beam indicator light" work. (Bit of a guess.)
P1000505.jpg

As a wild guess ... perhaps this one plugs into your sedimenter light?
P1000504.jpg


The BY/WG connector below is for your "glow rocker switch" as Darryl explains later (and the wiring diagram in the 36044 FSM backs his opinion up with the same wiring colour-codes).

And the other one....:hhmm:

Are the colour-codes of the 4 wires LR BY WB & B? If so, and if you have a "seat belt warning light" then this one plugs into your "seat belt warning relay".

P1000503.jpg



....
If you have the "GLOW ON" switch then you may not have the glow position on the ignition switch (and it may be correct that way). I haven't seen any stock setups with multiple ways to activate the glow plugs. ..Dan

I believe he should have both the "glow position on his ignition switch" and the "Glow rocker switch" Dan. I understand this is normal/stock for a "cold climate" (Canadian) "manual glow with glow controller" setup.

... From what I know - ALL diesels had the reverse key turn to glow the system before starting..........It was only on the NON-Superglow systems that a "GLOW/ON" switch was outfitted to smooth out a rough idle during the cold seasons...

Close Dallas.

I believe all "manual glow with glow controller" 40-series diesels got the "turn key backwards to glow" preheat feature. And of those, "cold climate" versions also got the momentary switch (or glow rocker switch) for providing after-glow (to smooth out rough idling when the engine's very cold).

The big RB wire goes into a fusible link which is then connected to your l/h battery. This known as the evil tap for the 12 volt headlight. It sends power to the dimmer relay which closes and then sends 12 volts to the other headlight.
Daryl

Brilliant! Thanks Daryl. Makes absolute sense. However - I wonder why it's not on the wiring diagram. . .

Look harder cause it is on my diagram.....are you using the Canadian BJ42 diagram? There is a differance in non Canadian BJ42's
Daryl

Daryl - thanks bud. It looks like I am just using a generic 1981 BJ40/BJ43/HJ47 Wiring diagram. Any chance your 1981 BJ42 diagram is in a .pdf or jpg?
thanks again,

I thought you had a copy of the 1980 Chassis & Body FSM 36044 Dallas. :frown:

If so, this is all shown in the "1981 BJ4# series USA & Canada wiring diargram" at the back.

If you really don't have the diagram, just ask and I'll fire it off to you..

:cheers:

PS.

I have always thought running 12V headlights on a 24V vehicle is plain silly. (Especially when the tailights, indicators, horn etc are 24V.) And I suspect the Canadian cruisers went this way because some Canadian bureaucrat thought owners should be able to run the same headlight bulbs/sealed-beams as any car ... and so I suspect they forced Toyota to do it just for their market.
Heavy vehicles run 24V lights everywhere and this 12V arrangement is troublesome.
But having said this, I understand if you still want to get the vehicle back to state it left the factory (ie with 12V headlights).

I have such a conflict goin on with my own vehicle (where I feel sure I could improve a few things but instead have decided to leave the ex-factory set-up).
 
lostmarbles said:
I agree with Daryl with my vote being for this one too.

:beer:

Yep that's the same as my 81 and the 79 i used to have.

The other looks like the 82 version which has a little catchment can underneath.
 
From my readings it is called a cyclonic filter and was only available in 83 BJ42's, Cdn market. It may have been elsware but Cdn market for 83 only.
Daryl

Yep that's the same as my 81 and the 79 i used to have.

The other looks like the 82 version which has a little catchment can underneath.
 
:D

I've got the filter housing like the red unit above...... from an 83...

BUT... the guy I bought the drive train from TOLD me it was from the same unit. And it was a mine truck so could very well have been swapped by the maintenance crew.
 
Perfect - excellent information here as I push along through this process. I don't have a 1980 Chassis & Body FSM 36044 - I have the 3B engine manual, but not the chassis. I need to find one, but I am trying to save money for more parts needed to get this running. These plugs will help - and I am in the process of fixing the wiring. I should have batteries by the weekend.

-dallas
 
Dallas, have you received the glow plugs I sent?

Have you had the engine running yet?

Maybe the engine was preserved prior to you getting it?

Daryl
 
did you run it or the PO?

If I remember the engine was running on WVO, might be the reason the plugs are so wet with oil/WVO......taste it:p

Daryl
 
Like in a gas engine oil on plugs means oil in the combustion chamber. Step one, compression check the should be around between in the 420psi range. The lower limit in the manual is 284 psi. If low then worn rings, sticky valve or head gasket are your usual suspects. On the other hand maybe the oil was poured into the cylinders for storing the engine and that's whats on the plug. The good or bad bad thing with diesels is there is not a whole lot that can go wrong. You won't be chasing the # 17 environmental system sensor with a loose connection. It will be injectors, rings valves or head gasket.

Good luck and keep at her
 
Plug manufacturers don't like oil getting on glowplugs.

I get the impression that the "metal" on tips is porous and can absorb stuff. So if you have an oil-soaked plug and activate it ... you may get the tip exploding....

Here's some info from a reputable plug manufacturer (Denso) that I base this opinion on .............

GlowplugFaultDensoOil.webp

Even dampness during storage can apparently cause a problem:

GlowplugFaultDensoMoisture.webp

So be glad that you're not intending to use those old plugs Dallas.

IMO the engine was probably stored lying on its side at some stage allowing oil to seep past the piston rings into the combustion chambers.

:cheers:

PS. Bandit has a VERY good explanation of oil being poured into the combustion chambers during storage too.
GlowplugFaultDensoOil.webp
GlowplugFaultDensoMoisture.webp
 
Ah-ha, makes sense. Thank you for the pictures. I should have lots of updates and pictures flowing over the next week as I am blitzing this thing.

Goals for next week:
1. Tub stripped and metalwork complete.
2. Fenders stripped and metalwork complete.
3. Gauge cluster wiring solved.
4. Wiring harness fixed.
5. Alternator/Voltage Regulator wiring solved. (finish wiring)
6. Locate a 24V heater blower with resistor. (Any of you have a lead on one?)
7. Locate hand throttle/sedimenter light.
8. Purchase batteries.

so much to do.....so little dime.
 
I have a couple of questions (don't worry - they are not electrical related, ha ha ha).

1. What should I do before firing up the 3B for the first time? Do I need to worry about oiling the injector pump diaphragm. Should I just go through the 3B maintenance in the 3B engine guide?

2. Does anyone have a picture of their unmolested radio insert area of their dash? Further, I am looking for the exact measurements side-to-side. Mine is cut and I'd like to make it original. I know the metal folds back and makes a "lip".

Thank you!
 
don't have a pic for you but I think it's the same as older fj's...ie, too small for pretty much every radio out there.

Of all the bj42's I've seen, not one has had an original radio, so no idea what the factory one looks like...I know the 24v 60's and 70's had a pos voltage converter for the radio, but I haven't seen one in a 42...

( hope that isn't a hijack...:grinpimp:)
 
You are making some good progress. The wiring is always a beast. Not looking forward to it on mine thats for sure. Hope I can help screw something up on it this weekend.:)
 
I run this Blaupunkt AM/FM radio in my BJ40 and I can't remember having to enlarge the hole:

GearStick3rdGear2.webp

But then I'm pretty convinced Alzheimer's is kicking in these days.

:cheers:

BTW. .... The blue thing in the unit is a plastic "plug" that I've used to fill the tape-player hole ever since one of my kids (now adults) broke the little hinged-plastic cover that was originally there. (I made it from plastic that colour-matches my Sky Blue body.)
GearStick3rdGear2.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom