dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

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Thanks man. I appreciate the confidence. As far as the top plate - I don't have a 40 series top plate, just the 60 series, which is back about 2-3", but I am just going to roll with that for now. I'll fix the transmission/tunnel cover so that it looks nice and adopts the shifter being aft 3". Sitting int he driver seat with the seat moved back, it actually feels/looks ok. If it is not going to work, just lie to me for now and tell me it will work - I can't handle any more set backs, ha ha ha!!
 
It will be fine. There are lots of guys running that way I'm sure.

Sorry in advance..... what about the carpet/floor mat....?

The one you got with the rig is likely bastardized already anyway.
 
seapotato said:
If it was me, I'd forget about the edic for a while. It's completely non-essential, just a convenience so the engine shuts off with the key.
The low oil shutdown is a nice feature, but a warning light or buzzer can be set up in it's place.

The over-inject function for startup really doesn't seem to do a hell of a lot, most (if not all) start fine without it.

Hook up a choke cable to the arm of the inj pump to shut the engine down, and re address it in the future if you want. I've had that setup for a year now, traded for some edic stuff and after about 5 minutes had my " what the hell am I doing?" moment and into the box it went.

BJ's are really simple, EXCEPT for that gd edic system.

So yeah, I'd concentrate on the glow plugs, ( should be a manual system on that, basically just power and a relay, no timers etc.) and the alt, and actually get some enjoyment out of the truck for a change.

it'll run without any electrics at all, that's what makes bj's cool.

( and kick the cat again)
Click to expand...

Seapotato speaks the truth Dallas....

But I'd say it slightly differently (being more similar to you ... I think ... in having an ingrained preference for OEM).

So I'd say it this way ....

Take your time sourcing the 28571-56130 FCM.

Not having it "at this very moment" doesn't need to hold your progress.

Your old-school diesel doesn't need any electrickery at all in order to run.

With the "EDIC arm" (that mormally connects the injector pump to the FCM) completely removed and the EDIC motor completely missing, your diesel should start and run perfectly well.

The only things you lose by running your cruiser without these components are:
  • The ability to stop your engine with the key. (So while you're waiting for the correct FCM you'll instead need to lift the hood and move that little lever on the IP towards the front to stop your engine) .......... and
  • Automatic engine shut-down in the event of "low oil pressure". (So you simply keep an eye on your oil pressure gauge regularly while you're driving your cruiser.)
That's it.

No pressure on you at all to source that FCM rapidly (or to pay top-dollar for it).

:beer:

These old-school diesels are the only way to go!!!

They're sooooooo damned s-i-m-p-l-e (and so non-reliant on electrickery)!!!!!!!!!
 
Just realized I need more horse feathers......it appears I have a hacked up 40 series 12 volt something key cylinder/ignition.

There is a huge nest of wires behind the gauge cluster with stupid crimp-on electrical connections - clearly aftermarket wires.

So, my key cylinder, key, and wiring dongle connected to the key cylinder needs to be sourced.

Not sure if this is 24V specific or not.

Thoughts, ideas?

I am going to scream!!
 
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dmaddox said:
Just realized I need more horse feathers......it appears I have a hacked up 40 series 12 volt something key cylinder/ignition.

There is a huge nest of wires behind the gauge cluster with stupid crimp-on electrical connections - clearly aftermarket wires.

So, my key cylinder, key, and wiring dongle connected to the key cylinder needs to be sourced.

Not sure if this is 24V specific or not.

Thoughts, ideas?

I am going to scream!!
Click to expand...

Can you show a photo or two?

Can you turn your key backwards (anticlockwise) to the "glow" position? If not, I think you have a petrol version (or perhaps ... less likely... a different diesel version .. perhaps for superglow or something like that).

I think this is what you should have there:

GlowController.webp

A quick look at the EPC gives me some confusion ... but it looks to me like 84510-60030 SWITCH ASSY,STARTER is what you should have there (on a 1981 BJ42) and it is apparently to be found on BJ4# and HJ4# models up to Aug 80. (Both 12V and 24V models).

I think the starter switch on any BJ4# or HJ4# that has the above key-face will work ... but earlier models may have part number 84510-60010 (and I wouldn't look at anything older than 1976).

PS. The EPC data is clearly incomplete/incorrect because I have to look outside your "1981 build year" to get these numbers. (I suspect the EPC thinks you should have a "superglow" starter but I know that's wrong.)


:beer:
GlowController.webp
 
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Hi Dallas,

A few weeks ago I replaced the key switch on my BJ40 manual glow. This is the switch you are looking for. like Tom said the number is 84510-60030.
It's aftermarket but the quality is pretty good. And cheap! I paid $11 for it.
DSC06469.webp
DSC06236.webp
I think you can use the existing key because the positions are made by the switch. You are only missing the "glow" inscription.

Hope this helps,

Rudi
DSC06236.webp
DSC06469.webp
 
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dmaddox said:
Just realized I need more horse feathers......it appears I have a hacked up 40 series 12 volt something key cylinder/ignition.

There is a huge nest of wires behind the gauge cluster with stupid crimp-on electrical connections - clearly aftermarket wires.

So, my key cylinder, key, and wiring dongle connected to the key cylinder needs to be sourced.

Not sure if this is 24V specific or not.

Thoughts, ideas?

I am going to scream!!
Click to expand...

Come on, Dallas, you knew it wasn't going to be easy ;)

Sorry I have no input, but I'm here rooting for ya bud! :cheers:
 
lostmarbles said:
A quick look at the EPC gives me some confusion ... but it looks to me like 84510-60030 SWITCH ASSY,STARTER is what you should have there (on a 1981 BJ42) and it is apparently to be found on BJ4# and HJ4# models up to Aug 80. (Both 12V and 24V models)....
Click to expand...

Rudi's post below (and photo) confirms that my statement above overlooks the fact that the "switch assembly" doesn't include the key, key barrel, and the surround (with GLOW-OFF-ACC-ON-START etc embossed into it),

Still I don't think it matters that much because it is the "models and years" that are really important to you.

In other words, as far as I can work out, your donor vehicle (for a complete "ignition switch assembly") can be 12V or 24V. And it can be a BJ40, BJ41, BJ42, BJ43, BJ44, BJ45, BJ46, HJ45, or HJ47. The epc suggests it should be made before August 1980 but we know from your 1981 BJ42 that some 1981 models have what's needed too. (Just make sure the key has the "anticlockwise-to-glow feature.)

dmaddox said:
Definately have a petrol version - I don't have a glow position.
Click to expand...

I agree. (Damned PO!!!!)

....Also - there is a wire nest of bullet style connectors back there with a bunch of blue and yellow wires. ...
Click to expand...

I'd say a professional may have fitted the petrol ignition then. Most POs would have just twisted the wires together. :lol:

bj40green said:
......I think you can use the existing key because the positions are made by the switch. You are only missing the "glow" inscription. ...Rudi
Click to expand...

I never thought of that possibility Rudi. For some reason I imagined the "spring-return features" were part of the key barrel ... but I think you could well be right!

(My memories of taking mine apart are vague ... but now that you mention it, I think I do recall the spring features being with the switch assembly.)

Still .... for "OEM look" Dallas will need the whole lot eventually. (But it looks like just one of those cheap switch assemblies may be enough to get him going.)

:beer:
 
Rudi,

Now I just need to find a place that sells that part. I found their corporate website, but there is no way to buy them. I'm looking for a US distributor - but don't see one at a first glance.

Thanks man!!

-dallas

bj40green said:
Hi Dallas,

A few weeks ago I replaced the key switch on my BJ40 manual glow. This is the switch you are looking for. like Tom said the number is 84510-60030.
It's aftermarket but the quality is pretty good. And cheap! I paid $11 for it.
View attachment 550121
View attachment 550120
I think you can use the existing key because the positions are made by the switch. You are only missing the "glow" inscription.

Hope this helps,

Rudi
Click to expand...
 
dmaddox said:
Rudi,

Now I just need to find a place that sells that part. I found their corporate website, but there is no way to buy them. I'm looking for a US distributor - but don't see one at a first glance.

Thanks man!!

-dallas
Click to expand...

I bought it from a shop that specializes in car electric stuff. I've seen this brand (the package/box) on several US web sites. Can't remember which one. I'll check on that later and report back to you. That same brand also has the wiper switch, the headlight switch, the.... switch and so on.
In case you can't find it, I can send you one by mail. Let me know by PM. I'll check tommorow for shipping cost by mail. Can't be that expensive.

Rudi
 
Ooooooops, I forgot that you live in gasoline country and that LC diesel stuff is very rare over there. Maybe Canada?

Talk to you tomorrow,

Rudi
 
Thanks Rudi - your help is appreciated!

On other news I have put my 24V EDIC up for sale/trade so that should give me some elbow room on finding a single plug version. They are out there.

As I work through the body work and other details, I have a few questions.

1. Is this indeed the correct accelerator cable?
Accelerator Cable Toyota Landcruiser 40 Series - BJ42 | eBay

2. I have drained my gas tank and let it evaporate off, as well as the water separator and replaced the fuel lines. Is there a chemical (maybe just diesel?) that I need to use or some precaution on cleaning out the petrol/gasoline?

Thanks!
 
dmaddox said:
2. I have drained my gas tank and let it evaporate off, as well as the water separator and replaced the fuel lines. Is there a chemical (maybe just diesel?) that I need to use or some precaution on cleaning out the petrol/gasoline?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I let the gas evaporate for a while (in our case 2 1/2 years, but that's overkill ;) ) and then filled it with diesel. No problems. Same deal on the faux-lux. Easy.

Be prepared to replace a fuel filter or two initially though. Especially if you run some BioDiesel, it'll probably loosen some gunk in the tank and lines, which will get caught/clog the fuel filter.

Dan
 
That link to the eBay item is too slow for me Dallas. But here's some pics of my RHD-version of the Hand Throttle that may help to show you what you should have there:

HandThrottle1.webp

HandThrottle2.webp

HandThrottle3.webp

And as for the remaining petrol, some of us :o having mistakenly filled our tanks with petrol at times. And when I did it, I just sneaked around the back of the building (where luckily they had a big grassy area ..... although I probably killed it) and dumped almost the entire 84 litre tank-capacity before driving back onto the forecourt and filling up again with the correct fuel.

What was amazing was that the person behind the counter didn't bat an eyelid at the same person making two big fuel purchases (one for petrol and one for diesel) within 20 minutes of each other.

So what I'm saying is, don't worry about small amounts of petrol-contamination. 80% or 90% diesel (with 20% or 10% petrol) for a short period shouldn't cause harm in my opinion.

PS. Rest assured that I'm more envirinmentally-friendly these days ........ :D

:beer:

:hhmm: Have I already placed these images in this thread or was it another thread? Sorry. Too rushed right now to go back and check.
HandThrottle1.webp
HandThrottle2.webp
HandThrottle3.webp
 
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