dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

[dmaddox]

Working on the front end wiring and (I am sorry) unfortunately I'm going to have several questions.

In this photo, I have a few questions:

THANK YOU for your help!

-dallas

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Dallas.

In your signature line, I think it would help us if you added the extra stuff I've put here:

1981 BJ42 - undoing PO-mods & trying to return to original Canadian 24V/3B setup.

(It may just be just my old age ... but I keep forgetting what you've got there and what you aim to end up with.)

Now I can't find the age or original-source-country of this 3B you've found and installed (to replace the PO's 305 chev) but I suspect it is probably "1983/1984 and Australia". Edit later... Re-reading the thread again I see it came from Alaska and the sticker on the valve cover suggests it could be 1982. (If it is really a 1982 3B then it must be one of the first superglow versions.)



That bit that I'm suggesting you "remove and discard" is a "plate" connected with the "current sensor" (not shown) from a superglow preheat system.

And the two items that I'm saying you should leave unconnected I believe to be the "dropping resistor" and a "post" that the current sensor mounts to. (Again - Both of these are associated with superglow and unnecessary for you.)

So all these items are not required for "manual glow with glow controller" (which is what your 1981 BJ42 had originally.

Note: I suspect your glow plugs here are 6V (for "12 volt superglow") and if so, you'll need to replace them with 20.5V plugs (for the "24V manual glow with glow controller" preheat setup that matches your "1981 24V Canadian BJ42" aim).

So all you need there is the busbar connecting all four 20.5V plugs together. And then you connect the BIG THICK wire coming from your glow controller to your No. 4 plug (close to the firewall).

In this way, the busbar will supply the juice (which the controller has reduced to 20.5V from the batteries' 24V) to the other 3 plugs as well (and NOTHING else is required to be there).

That big thick wire from your glow controller should be BY (black with a yellow stripe).

Hope this helps.



PS. I dunno about the grounding strap. Where does it originate from?

 

[dmaddox]

Thank you , thank you THANK YOU. Does that little grounding strap that's on the firewall go to anything?

I saw on the back of my glow controller that luckily the wires look oem - INCLUDING a thick BLACK/Yellow wire that I traced over to the Glow Plug Relay. Looks like a dead end here. So, I need to find if/how/where it gets back into the engine bay.

 

[lostmarbles]

...Does that little grounding strap that's on the firewall go to anything?

Is it what I'm pointing to here Dallas?


(I searched through your previous photos)

If so, then I think it's an unnecessary PO addition (as opposed to being an "OEM ex-factory original item") and should be discarded.

(I've never seen such a thing on a 40-series cruiser before.)

 

[lostmarbles]

.....
I saw on the back of my glow controller that luckily the wires look oem - INCLUDING a thick BLACK/Yellow wire that I traced over to the Glow Plug Relay. Looks like a dead end here. So, I need to find if/how/where it gets back into the engine bay.

Yes. There is a big thick BY between the Glow Controller and Glow Relay Dallas. But there should be another leading to the glowplug busbar.

I drew up this wiring diagram specifically for my 12V BJ40 but your 24V BJ42 is wired much the same in this respect (and in most other respects too for that matter):



I'm not sure if there are two wires off the glow controller (off its downstream-terminal) or if there is a "splice" somewhere in the loom that provides the BY wire to the busbar.

This photo shows that there is only one BY wire on my Glow Relay (so my BY to my busbar doesn't originate there):



And here is where my BY travels in the engine bay. (It is hidden within a black sleeve and I've put red dashes along this sleeve to highlight it.)



Perhaps your nasty PO cut that thick BY wire where it leaves the main loom? It leaves the main loom just where it exits my firewall into the engine bay.



PS. Those two big grommets on my firewall cover the holes that my PO cut for air conditioning piping that I've since removed.

 

[dmaddox]

YES!!!! perfect! Those pictures help me find a place to search, and I found the wires wrapped in a hunk of electrical tape - all severed.

Take a look:

I am assuming the other wires are for the edic motor? Ugh, the EDIC motor I sourced has two big connectors on it. I hope I can get it to work. (Just like in your last picture there.

At least I found the wires! YES! It looks like I have a thick BY, another thick BW and the others you see there.

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Dallas

Just looked back carefully over your thread again to admire how far you've come and to refamiliarise myself with it all... Here's my synopsis:

• Purchased 1981 Canadian 24V LHD BJ42 (unfinished project vehicle) that the PO had bastardised with a 305 chevy, SOA conversion, saginaw PS, various non-OEM parts (like radiator, w/washer-reservoir, coolant-reservoir etc), butchered dash (for radio install), rusted out driver/pax floorpans, rollcage install, bolted suspension fixed-pin hangers (instead of rivetted), missing vacuum tank, missing vacuum pump (and missing connecting piping), and butchered wiring etc etc
• Purchased an ex-Alaska 3B (which the engine sticker suggests could be 1982) only to find that it is "superglow" and "12V" (instead of being "manual glow with glow controller" and "24V" ... which is what's needed to restore this 1981 Canadain BJ42) ..... Note... Searching of the EPC shows that superglow was introduced to the 3B engine in October 1982 .... So 1982 fits!
• Discovered the transmission on the BJ42 had apparently been changed too (presumably to get a petrol-type input shaft compatible with the usual chevvy conversion kits) so another transmission was sourced (which I couldn't find out by reading this thread whether it is H41, H42)
• Converted the suspension back to SUA
• Converted the steering back from power to manual and patched up the big hole in the front crossmember
• Removed the roll cage and patched up the rusted floor pans
• Decided to use a converter to run some 12V components like "radio".
• Obtained and fitted engine mounts (both to-engine and to-chassis) and their associated isolators to suit the 3B/BJ42
• Installed the 3B and found and installed a matching radiator assembly
• Obtained and installed a vacuum tank and ran vacuum piping
• Obtained 24V alternator/VacPump, starter, external voltage regulator and EDIC motor (supposedly off an late1980/early1981 3B) to replace the 12V versions that came with the 3B transplant motor (but found the 24V EDIC motor has "dual connectors" and may be incompatible with the loom and EDIC relay)
• Started sourcing components to ensure 24V compatibility of the combination meter (so presumable the PO had swapped in a 12V version to match his 12V 305 chevvy)

And I've probably left out lots here... But heck. That's enough work/trouble to wear out most people!!!

Anyway ... back to your question on the wiring. I don't think I'm in the best position to help because my BJ is a 40 rather than a 42, 2 years older than yours, and RHD instead of LHD.

I suspect those are your EDIC wires because the diagram I've just sent you shows R, G, Y and L being used there.

As for the BY wire you're holding ... It looks a bit thin to carry glow current.

The thick BW wire could be for your starter motor control circuit (because the starter mtor is on that side of the engine)?

LR and BY ???

 

[dmaddox]

Marbles - You are nearly spot on - in addition to hours of body work, on and on and on. I have an H41, and the thick wires I am holding do appear to be the BY to the glow plugs and the BW to the starter.

I am making good progress on the wiring thanks to the diagrams you are sending me - YES!

I have solved the GLOW system.

I have solved the STARTER system.

Now I am onto the EDIC system.

Wires I have loose in the engine bay are:

LR
L
Y
R
G
LR

(L=blue)

I have two plugs coming out of the edic motor.

Plug 1:
Thick WL
Thick WL
L
Plug 2:
Thick WB
Y
G
R

It's pretty obvious that the Y, G, R, L are an easy connect. However, that leaves the three THICK wires coming from the EDIC motor loose: WL, WL and a WB.

Thoughts?

 

[bj40green]

Hi Guys,

I don't know if this wiring diagram is already here but I put it in anyway. It's from the FSM 36044E.


3 wires from the EDIC relay go off the screen:
WL goes to fusible link battery
BW goes to key start position
BY goes to fuse block / engine fuse

Hope this helps,

Rudi

 

[dmaddox]

I need to find a copy of that manual!!

So, Here is where I am on the EDIC system:

"FUEL CONTROL RELAY" as it says on mine:

Y - to EDIC Motor
WL - To fuseable link + battery
L - to EDIC Motor
G - to EDIC Motor
R - to EDIC Motor
BY - to regulator / 15A fuse box
WB - to WB on Alternator and Oil pressure
YB - oil pressure
BW - starter relay / ign.

That leaves me with the three thicker wires coming from the EDIC motor: WB and two WL. I need to figure out what those need to be supplied with.

What a mess......

 

[bj40green]

Are you sure those wires are coming from the EDIC motor?
I see 2x White Blue and 1x White Black between Alternator and Voltage Regulator (plus a White Green).

Rudi

 

[dmaddox]

Yes, those are the wires coming out of the EDIC motor. There are two separate plugs (as you can see in Lostmarbles photo) and these wires are coming OUT of the edic motor.

Now, just as you suggest Rudi - these wires *may* go to the alternator/voltage regulator, I am not sure.

I am researching.....

thanks a million for your help and clues!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Yes, those are the wires coming out of the EDIC motor. There are two separate plugs (as you can see in Lostmarbles photo) and these wires are coming OUT of the edic motor.

That's really odd for them to have that many things coming out of the EDIC motor. The EDIC motor really only uses 4 wires.

1 is power to the motor, the other three are to sense when it is in each position (O.I., run, and stop). The EDIC relay cuts off power to the motor when it has moved to it's selected position, so I can't imagine there are pathways to the alternator, ignition switch, or battery because of that. The EDIC relay certainly has those (it basically has 4 inputs to it: always on, ignition switched, starter engaged, and oil pressure switch) but at least on our 12V 3B EDIC system those wires are all well independent of the EDIC motor (which only has the 4 wires from the EDIC relay).

Dan

 

[lostmarbles]

...... the thick wires I am holding do appear to be the BY to the glow plugs and the BW to the starter.

I'm still a little worried about the apparently smaller gauge of your BY wire there Dallas:



But then if it becomes live ONLY when you turn your key to "glow" and "start" then I guess it must be the one.

I have two plugs coming out of the edic motor.

Plug 1:
Thick WL
Thick WL
L
Plug 2:
Thick WB
Y
G
R

It's pretty obvious that the Y, G, R, L are an easy connect. However, that leaves the three THICK wires coming from the EDIC motor loose: WL, WL and a WB.

Thoughts?

Hmmmm. Sometimes the pigtail colour-codes don't match those in the loom but I've just gone and checked my BJ40 and found my loom wire colour-codes directly match your pigtails:





So I think that 24V 1980/81 3B EDIC-motor you have there could simply plug directly into my 12V 1979 loom. (Which confirms what we've discovered in other threads that basically the same "Harness Assemblies" are used between 12V and 24V models.)

The simplest solution is probably for you to get another 24V EDIC motor that is "single-plug".

But first we should have someone with a single-plug EDIC motor post up a pic of their connector to see if you can match the "number of wires" and "wire colour coding" to what you've got on your loom Dallas. (I used to have one here but I sent it to a bloke in South Africa )

I need to find a copy of that manual!!...

Yes. "36044 Chassis & Body FSM" is probably the best overall match to your "36047 B series Engine Repair Manual" and for your 1981 Canadian BJ42 .... But then again, Toyota FSMs are a bit weird in that you may find other Chassis & Body FSMs that contain little bits that are more appropriate for your vehicle than what's in the equivalent sections of 36044.

And at least 36044 is easier to aquire than 36047 .... from my experience anyway.




But WAIT there's more .................. (After posting this I've had another idea ..... And I'll delve into this further and throw in another post soon.)

 

[lostmarbles]

OK Dallas. (The next instalment )

Here's a wiring diagram that supposedly is for a 1979 BJ40 destined for the USA/Canada market:



On it, I have put green dots to signify the wires on my green connector and purple dots to signify the wires on my white connector.

But without seeing the connector and colour-codes for a "single-connector EDIC motor" I'm not sure where to go from here...

Anyone able to take some pics?

 

[bj40green]

OK, correct me if I'm wrong..... please.
Toms diagram shows the EDIC motor with 4 wires + 3 wires / 2 connectors and a relay with 8 wires.
Rudi's diagram shows the EDIC motor with 4 wires / 1 connector and a relay with 9 wires.
The difference is where the power for the motor is coming from.
In Toms diagram (Dmaddox situation) the power comes from the double White Blue and White Black connector.
In Rudi's diagram the relay has one more connection being the White Blue wire (going to the same power supply point the fusible link).
So here the EDIC motor is fed through the relay.
Thus if you have the right combination of relay and motor you can go either way (I think/hope/pray) by adjusting the loom.
So in my opinion you can hook up the double White Blue to the Fusible link and the White Black to ground if that connector is not in your loom.

Does anybody see a mistake in this reasoning?

Rudi

 

[dmaddox]

Rudi...awesome thinking. And Tom - THANK YOU SO MUCH for the help and pictures. This is wonderful collaboration and I take the teaching and learning with open arms.

So, my EDIC is identical to Toms - note my White/Green plugs as well:

And here is my "FUEL CONTROL RELAY"

I hope I can do as Rudi suggests - feed the double thicker WL's to the fusible link headed toward the ignition and the WB to a grounding source.

Great thinking here....I hope I can make this work. What do you guys think?

 

[bj40green]

Close, but.....
You have the motor from Toms diagram, and the relay from Rudi's diagram. If you compare the innerworks of the motors you'll see the difference. In Toms diagram the motor gets external power and in Rudi's the motor is fed through the relay.
I think the inside of the relays are different.
Don't you have the realay with 8 wires, so without the WL?
That would be easy. Plug & Play.
I like to hear what Tom (or anybody else) has to say.

Keep faith, we're almost there.

Rudi

 

[lostmarbles]

s***! I'm lost..... But maybe with a few more beers under my belt I may be able to decipher all this...

(I'm really a bit s-l-o-w anyway and it always takes me time to come to grips with things nowadays.)

I've just come in to the computer from mowing my lawn (and the neighbours lawn too BTW) ........ which is pretty exhausting for an old fart like me.

 

[lostmarbles]

....Thus if you have the right combination of relay and motor you can go either way (I think/hope/pray) by adjusting the loom.
So in my opinion you can hook up the double White Blue to the Fusible link and the White Black to ground if that connector is not in your loom.

Does anybody see a mistake in this reasoning?

Rudi

Well for the time being I'll ignore the "if you have the right combination of relay and motor" in your statement above Rudi.


So .... ignoring possible internal differences inside older-versus-newer EDIC relays (aka Fuel control Relays) and also ignoring possible differences inside older-versus-newer EDIC motors (aka Fuel Control Motors) ..... (and noting the fact that the EDIC motor internals have certainly be drawn differently between the two diagrams .. which lends support to the idea that the motors are indeed wired differently) ..... you may .....just may .... be able to get a functioning EDIC system by connecting your old-style dual-connector EDIC motor into your single-connector loom like this:



(I've superimposed the old motor onto the newer diagram and used red/green/yellow/Blue dots to show where the red, green, yellow and blue wires connect together. And the WB motor wire is run to earth, and the two WL wires are run to the downstream side of your main fusible link somewhere ....)

But I'm not sure if either of us want to advise you to try it Dallas. (Rudi or myself.)

I guess it may be safe to experiment with doing this provided you somehow limit "fault current" (by perhaps using just a few strands of wire between the 24V +VE battery terminal and that terminal-clamp to act as a temporary fusible link).

Otherwise... I suspect sourcing a more modern single-connector 24V EDIC motor might be best.

.....I hope I can do as Rudi suggests - feed the double thicker WL's to the fusible link headed toward the ignition and the WB to a grounding source.

Great thinking here....I hope I can make this work. What do you guys think?

Close, but.....
You have the motor from Toms diagram, and the relay from Rudi's diagram. If you compare the innerworks of the motors you'll see the difference. In Toms diagram the motor gets external power and in Rudi's the motor is fed through the relay.
I think the inside of the relays are different.
Don't you have the realay with 8 wires, so without the WL?
That would be easy. Plug & Play.
I like to hear what Tom (or anybody else) has to say.

Keep faith, we're almost there.

Rudi

Yeah .... I feel like you do Rudi.

I think that while the way Dallas is thinking of connecting the "old two-connector-style motor" into his newer single-connector-type loom (with matching newer EDIC relay) is indeed the most sensible way to go IF you're intent on trying to marry them up ...it is certainly not without risk. (The older motor and newer relay may be incompatible depending on internal wiring).



Now all that thought was exhausting .... I think I'll move on from the beer to the port.