dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

:hhmm: and more :hhmm: and more :hhmm: brings me to the following conclusion:
The old style (8 wire relay and 2 connector motor) main power route is from the fusible link, through the motor to the relay.
The new style (9 wire relay and 1 connector motor) main power route is just opposite. From the fusible link through the relay to the motor.
So I think that feeding +B to the old style motor and having +B on the new style relay will not work unless...... Just my thoughts.
That brings me back to my previous statement; Don't you have the (old style) relay with 8 wires, so without the WL? That would be easy. Plug & Play.

Having said this, I'm joining Tom but I switch to Rum and Coke.
Tomorrow is another day (Hey, this is Costa Rica).

Rudi :)

 
What is strange here (well, there is a LOT strange) is that I have a 11/1980 build Canadian BJ42 - that supposedly has the "newer" relay. There are 9 wires on it and it HAS a WL coming from it.

When I purchased these 24V parts from Canada - they were from a "1981 model BJ42". So, it was supposed to be a spot-on-match.

This is getting so hard to understand, I just want to burn this cruiser to the ground. I am going to trace the WL from my RELAY to see where it goes.

I am hoping that I can supply power/ground/switched power to the EDIC motor to get this RELAY/MOTOR combination to work. However, just thinking about it is melting my brain.

My concern is that IF the RELAY I have is supposed to SUPPLY the motor though the WL wire, how is the relay RECEIVING and SENDING that power? It looks like it goes through the ignition switch in the diagrams. So maybe it goes WL: Battery -> Fuseable Link -> Ignition switch -> Relay -> EDIC motor?

I have to step away for a moment and maybe do some bodywork today. I am sorry that I am dragging you guys through this mess.

It doesn't help that I live in the USA where BJ42's with 24V 3Bs are as common as feathered horses and unicorns.

On the other hand, many thanks fellas - many thanks.
 
Hi Dallas,

Here is pic to show the differences between the 2 set-ups.
It's all about how the power runs. Follow the red arrows.
Both are doing the same but are designed from a different point of view, so you cant mix-mate the motor from one system with the relay from the other system.

explaining EDIC logic.webp

Rudi
explaining EDIC logic.webp
 
bj40green said:
.....
The old style (8 wire relay and 2 connector motor) main power route is from the fusible link, through the motor to the relay.

The new style (9 wire relay and 1 connector motor) main power route is just opposite. From the fusible link through the relay to the motor.

So I think that feeding +B to the old style motor and having +B on the new style relay will not work unless...... Just my thoughts..........
Click to expand...

And you're probably quite right, in my opinion, Rudi

...That brings me back to my previous statement; Don't you have the (old style) relay with 8 wires, so without the WL? That would be easy. Plug & Play. .....
Click to expand...


I don't recall Dallas saying he purchased an old relay to match his old 2-connector EDIC motor Rudi.

But I agree. Fitting an old relay to match the old motor should definitely make it all work.

I could post up the wiring connections required (if Dallas is interested) by superimposing the old relay and old motor on the newer wiring diagram that matches his 1981 BJ42.

But things may need to be overcome. For instance the pigtail-connector on the old 8-wire EDIC relay may not mate with the connector designed for the newer 9-wire relay if Dallas's luck is still running low. So going this route may involve replacing the EDIC loom-based connector too ... And so I think Dallas would be wise to try and source that with the old relay if he wants to try going down this route.

But at the end of all that, while he should get a working EDIC system, the EDIC motor and EDIC relay won't be an OEM-match to the original components that should have been there.

So despite the expense, I think I favour sourcing a single-connector 24V EDIC motor. (And it's Dallas's dosh and not mine...So let's help spend it eh :D)

dmaddox said:
What is strange here ....is that I have a 11/1980 build Canadian BJ42 - that supposedly has the "newer" relay. There are 9 wires on it and it HAS a WL coming from it. ...
Click to expand...

I don't think that's strange Dallas. Rudi has already pointed out that the newer relay is indeed 9-wire. And YES, the 1981 wiring diagram (36044FSM) does show a WL wire going to the B-terminal of the relay (feeding 24V +Ve there). I think you've perhaps misread something.... :hhmm: Perhaps you need some ALCOHOL like Rudi and myself have been consuming in our exotic locations. :D (

(... Well I guess to someone in the USA, New Zealand may be considered "exotic" anyway. He he. ..... But I'm starting to wander off track... Don't worry....Pulling myself back together now....Ahhhhemmmm... )


...When I purchased these 24V parts from Canada - they were from a "1981 model BJ42". So, it was supposed to be a spot-on-match...
Click to expand...

Now come on Dallas!.. You said 1980/1981 before. ... So I'm picking they are more to the 1980-end of the spectrum.

.. I just want to burn this cruiser to the ground. ...
Click to expand...

Don't bullsh#t us Dallas. You're a battler and not one to give up!

dmaddox said:
Now, off to Canada want ads to look for a single plug 24V EDIC Motor. :-)
Click to expand...

If you have trouble and want me to search in NZ .. Let me know Dallas. (But shipping may be higher of course.)

:beer:
 
Sorry for the confusion, this may help explain what I have:

1. 1981 BJ42 Canadian - 11/80 build date.
2. Sourced a late 1981 3B from a BJ60 from Chili along with the H41.
3. Sourced 24V starter/edic/voltage regulator/alternator from a "1980 ish" (I was told) BJ42 from Canada.
4. I bought the radiator, battery trays, and manual steering from the same "1980 ish" BJ42 from Canada.

No, I won't give up on this - but I am REALLY discouraged.

If any of you guys bump into a single plug 24V EDIC motor - let me know (especially if that person wants to trade for a two-plug style).

I'd rather go that route than trying to adapt an older relay.

Now, off to the alternator/voltage regulator wiring. I see that my VR has the little dongle that plugs into a condensor, I suppose that little condensor can only be purchased in Canada too? Ugh...

I need to step away for a few days.

Thanks crew - 'preciate you
 
dmaddox said:
Sorry for the confusion, this may help explain what I have:

1. 1981 BJ42 Canadian - 11/80 build date.
2. Sourced a late 1981 3B from a BJ60 from Chili along with the H41.
3. Sourced 24V starter/edic/voltage regulator/alternator from a "1980 ish" (I was told) BJ42 from Canada.
4. I bought the radiator, battery trays, and manual steering from the same "1980 ish" BJ42 from Canada.

No, I won't give up on this - but I am REALLY discouraged.

If any of you guys bump into a single plug 24V EDIC motor - let me know (especially if that person wants to trade for a two-plug style).

I'd rather go that route than trying to adapt an older relay.

Now, off to the alternator/voltage regulator wiring. I see that my VR has the little dongle that plugs into a condensor, I suppose that little condensor can only be purchased in Canada too? Ugh...

I need to step away for a few days.

Thanks crew - 'preciate you
Click to expand...

Chile! I wonder where I got Alaska from then? (Must have been the alcohol whispering in the murky depths of my grey matter.....)

Anyway .... You needn't worry about the capacitor. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't notice anything amiss if you didn't even fit one.

Radio noise suppression is just witchcraft.

Find a capacitor (or "condenser" if you want to call it that) that LOOKS RIGHT (because looks are all-important to us cruiser fanatics). eBay is as good a source as any I reckon. But me thinks you have pretty good general-automotive parts stores over there in the US of A too that can give you such things over the counter (unlike here).

Here............. Have a look at what I did for mine:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/290127-charging-problems-1979-bj40.html

Post # 4 shows my original capacitor/condenser.

Post #13 shows the new one I fitted.

Yes I know you're 24V and not 12V. Who cares? It's witchcraft as I said before. Fit any damned one that looks right .... or even fit nothing at all and leave the connector dangling. (But I couldn't allow myself to leave another "unconnected dangly thing" within my lovely engine bay. That would offend my sensibilities!).

Take care. (Just go and kick the cat!)

:beer:

BTW. That 36044FSM that has the "1981 wiring diagram" that seems to match your cruiser .... is officially a "1980 FSM" (as far as I know).
 
Just did some research on the EPC that hopefully will help you track down a replacement Fuel Control Motor (aka EDIC motor) for the one that was originally used in your 1981 24V BJ42 Dallas.

As far as I can see you need the following combination:

24V motor:28571-56130
24V relay: 28590-57020
(which Toyota says it used from August 1980 onwards, and which should, I think, represent the single-connector FCM and 9-wire FCR)

So, if you read 28590-57020 on your FCR (that came with your 1981 BJ42) then I think you can safely ask wreckers for a 28571-56130 FCM (with a loom connector and enough loom wires hanging on that for easy loom-fitment)

Assuming of course that the wrecker can still read the label.


:beer:

Incidentally, up to and including July 1980, appararently the following combination was in use:

28571-56050 FCM and 28590-56070 FCR (which I'm guessing represents the 2-connector FCM and 8-wire FCR)

(Build months are often difficult to determine so I'm guessing that's what led to your parts sourcing mix-ups. ... Rather than any malice/self-interest on the part of your suppliers.)
 
Thanks much Tom - I do indeed have a 28590-57020 relay AND a 28571-56050 motor.

So, I just need to find the motor that is 28571-56130. I have a source on one (possibly).

Do any of you have a thermostat housing COVER that points to the right side of the vehicle? (or points left as you stand at the front of the cruiser).

My problem is I have to find a wrecker in another country that has these parts and further, one that is willing to ship it to me!

I am sorry Tom/crew I don't want this to sound like a cop-out, but I am about to hang a 7500.00 price tag on this cruiser and walk away. I am trying to save for a house and this thing is just draining me physically, emotionally and monetarily. Every single corner I turn to - is a dead end. I am out of my league with the BJ series. I should have just stuck with what I know........ the F series engines.

We'll see what unfolds this week.

Many thanks friends,

dallas
 
dmaddox said:
.......Do any of you have a thermostat housing COVER that points to the right side of the vehicle? (or points left as you stand at the front of the cruiser).
Click to expand...

Can't you just remove that one and rotate it 120 degrees clockwise Dallas? (You may have to also rummage through a hose bin to get a hose that'll worktoo.)

...I am sorry Tom/crew I don't want this to sound like a cop-out, but I am about to hang a 7500.00 price tag on this cruiser and walk away.
dallas
Click to expand...

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!
 
dmaddox said:
So, I just need to find the motor that is 28571-56130. I have a source on one (possibly).

Do any of you have a thermostat housing COVER that points to the right side of the vehicle? (or points left as you stand at the front of the cruiser).

My problem is I have to find a wrecker in another country that has these parts and further, one that is willing to ship it to me!
Click to expand...

Dallas:

Have you tried Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 for those? It's an idea, and he was able to get me a thermostat housing that pointed left (we had another one that pointed left, but with a cap on top), and has generally been able to get all sorts of weird stuff for me and ship it here relatively painlessly.

After getting our FJ-->BJ-40 on the road, I think that selling it would be a mistake right now. At the least, get it running by any means necessary (instead of the Dallas purist way) and sell it then. You've got the parts to make it run one way or the other right now by the looks of it, so it's an option.

Dan
 
If it was me, I'd forget about the edic for a while. It's completely non-essential, just a convenience so the engine shuts off with the key.
The low oil shutdown is a nice feature, but a warning light or buzzer can be set up in it's place.

The over-inject function for startup really doesn't seem to do a hell of a lot, most (if not all) start fine without it.

Hook up a choke cable to the arm of the inj pump to shut the engine down, and re address it in the future if you want. I've had that setup for a year now, traded for some edic stuff and after about 5 minutes had my " what the hell am I doing?" moment and into the box it went.

BJ's are really simple, EXCEPT for that gd edic system.

So yeah, I'd concentrate on the glow plugs, ( should be a manual system on that, basically just power and a relay, no timers etc.) and the alt, and actually get some enjoyment out of the truck for a change.

it'll run without any electrics at all, that's what makes bj's cool.

( and kick the cat again)
 
Just to let you know I swapped my dual plug EDIC for a single plug model and it was quite simple to do. It has been fully function checked so it works!

This was done at the same time I went from 24 volt to 12 volt. The 1980 BJ40 engine and wire harness was swapped into a 1974 FJ40 so I have some 24 volt stuff kicking around that needs to go away. Unfortunatly not all of it will work for the BJ42.

I posted to your wanted post.


Cheers,
Daryl
 
Dallas,

Your t-stat cover already points to the left when viewed from the front...
sat4.webp
mine points the right when viewed from the front but I have power steering which as I understand it was the reason it changed. If you need this one its yours cuz I put a 13BT t-stat cover on mine and don't need this one. I should still have it but I'll have to look for it
t-cover.webp
sat4.webp
t-cover.webp
 
Oh, and I have three EDIC motors and I will check the tags for you. Likely a moot point as they are all 12V IIRC.
 
Awl_TEQ - good eye, it does point CORRECTLY in that photo - but I turned it to send to a shop that needed to know what I was talking about. The bolt holes are a "one-way-only" configuration. I wish Toyota would have designed it so that you could turn it either way.

However, the bolts are in a triangular pattern - thus, there is no way to turn it and have it line up. However, as AWL-TEQ is pointing out, that photo is the exact orientation I need.

Thank you guys - for the references - I'll try these companies today!

thanks,
 
Aren't you glad to be dealing with this now before putting a lot more time and money into the bodywork?

Keep the faith Dallas, step back from it, it's great to see the transformation and the work you're putting in to bring this back the way it should be! A little time away and you'll be right back at it!

OTOH, I'll offer you $5 for it to keep you from burning it to the ground :D
 
I may be off my rocker but from here it looks as though you're nearly done. Just some niggly wiring issues.:D

Not trying to insult you. I realize there is more to it than that but look how far you've come already.:clap:

you got the battery towers, rad, engine, tranny (top plate?), mounts, 24V starter, Alternator/vac pump - hell just make it run and take a break for a bit. drive it a bit and when the bug catches again you can finish it Dallas style.

But if you need to sell it to get that house...:meh:... a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom