DIY Wiring Tools?

[Somebodyelse5]

Don't solder anything that will experience vibration or flexing. The solder makes wires brittle and will break. If you notice from the factory, the only things soldered are things that connect directly to a circuit board, etc. and have some sort of strain relief to protect the soldered area from flexing/vibrating

I think it should be noted that properly splicing wires using solder and an adhesive heat shrink is far superior to using a basic crimp with automotive store tools. Lineman splice is the way to go

See page 71 of attached Nasa STD 8739.4a

 

[UsedLuxury]

Maybe I should get someone to wheel it for me, too. Hmmm...

 

[jaymar]

View attachment 3247534

^Must be the new electric version.

 

[Comet]

Western Union splice is the bomb!! Linemans for you younger whipper snappers! @Somebodyelse5

 

[MPolley]

I think it should be noted that properly splicing wires using solder and an adhesive heat shrink is far superior to using a basic crimp with automotive store tools. Lineman splice is the way to go

See page 71 of attached Nasa STD 8739.4a

That NASA document doesn't say that a solder joint is superior to a crimp, and is careful to mention in multiple locations that solder joints are more brittle and prone to breaking from flexing and stress. The only pros they really mention are size and weight.

From wire harness manufacturer CAI:
Crimped connections are more flexible, heat-resistant and vibration-resistant than soldered ones which have greater potential for wire fatigue and stiffening. Crimping is often more consistent than soldering, which can vary according to method or technician. Meanwhile, the crimp-on process is simple, quick and easy to repeat when you know what you’re doing. Properly crimped wire strands can create a “cold weld” in which the pressure is so great that the metals and their oxide layers form on a micro-level. That’s why crimping is the technique of choice in industries, such as aerospace and automotive, which demand the strongest, most reliable connections and can’t risk the degradation of filler metals.

I will still stand by saying in an automotive context, 99+% of wiring should be crimped, and solder should be used sparingly and only when crimping is not possible or the wire connection is very well protected from flexing and vibration. Solder should almost never be used on sensor wiring as the solder adds resistance and could affect the signal

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I think we agree way more than you may think I crimp my terminations... lugs, plugs, connectors.... I am not, by any means, suggesting that soldering is superior across the board.

I'll still say that in a mid span splice or wire repair situation, I will go for a soldered lineman splice with an adhesive backed heat shrink over a standard automotive crimp. From a mass perspective, the butt crimp is heavier and you now need to secure the wire or risk it flopping around. Sure you get a stiffer joint with solder, but you also get a lighter joint that won't deflect as much and doesn't *need* to be as flexible. (and don't over crimp, you'll work harden the strands!)

This part is my opinion... Unless you have a good set of ratcheting crimpers, which most car folks don't know exist, the chances of a light or over crimp are a lot higher than anyone likes to admit. I can visually see a bad cold solder joint easier than I can see a bad crimp. Anecdotal, but I guess I am paranoid about my crimps and always second guess them... so, I have ratcheting and hydraulic crimpers for the various sizes.

Right place and a right time is really the point I guess. Neither is always right or always wrong and how you actually execute the method plays a big part.

 

[MPolley]

I think we agree way more than you may think I crimp my terminations... lugs, plugs, connectors.... I am not, by any means, suggesting that soldering is superior across the board.

I'll still say that in a mid span splice or wire repair situation, I will go for a soldered lineman splice with an adhesive backed heat shrink over a standard automotive crimp. From a mass perspective, the butt crimp is heavier and you now need to secure the wire or risk it flopping around. Sure you get a stiffer joint with solder, but you also get a lighter joint that won't deflect as much and doesn't *need* to be as flexible. (and don't over crimp, you'll word harden the strands!)

This part is my opinion... Unless you have a good set of ratcheting crimpers, which most car folks don't know exist, the chances of a light or over crimp are a lot higher than anyone likes to admit. I can visually see a bad cold solder joint easier than I can see a bad crimp. Anecdotal, but I guess I am paranoid about my crimps and always second guess them... so, I have ratcheting and hydraulic crimpers for the various sizes.

Right place and a right time is really the point I guess. Neither is always right or always wrong and how you actually execute the method plays a big part.

I can't say that I disagree with you on anything you said here. I used to redo crimps all the time after they failed a pull test, and I eventually did buy a ratcheting crimper. That was a lifesaver and definitely has made my wiring work faster, cheaper, and more reliable. By the time I threw out sections of wire and ruined a bunch of crimp connectors, I had paid for ratcheting crimpers 3-4x over