DIY Rear Brake Replacement: Need some wisdom

[abuck99]

I'm a few thousand miles from having to replace the rear brakes and have a few DIY questions.

2005 LC with 165,000 miles- (front rotors & pads replaced & brake system flushed 1200 miles ago)

1.) Rotors: Slotted or Smooth? I plan to replace the rotor & pads together. Is there any significant benefit to upgrading to a slotted rotor over a smooth rotor on a 100 ? ( I'm not planning any track days anytime soon) I believe that slotted rotors are great for street use, but smooth rotors generally maintain better braking power in offroad conditions, especially in wet or muddy conditions right? I like EBC products for rotors & pads, but open to other ideas.

2.) Calipers: inspect pistons, clean, lube pins, replace the retaining clips or replace the caliper at this mileage?

3.) Wheel Bearings: Do these need attention at regular brake change intervals? It seems involved to pull the axle to get at these; do I address this or leave them alone?

4.) E-brake Components: The e-brake is frozen ( bell cranks rusted) and Ive got service kit ordered to replace the brackets, boots, pins etc. I plan to replace the e-brake shoes as well. Am I missing something here? Any other parts in the Ebrake system to consider or replace?

If Im missing any other related rear brake maint. items, feel free to chime in. I am trying to have all the parts on hand ahead of time to hopefully get it back together same day.

 

[bucfl]

1. I went the cheap route and bought AutoZone for pads/rotors. They have been great so far. Money was a factor, next time ill go better.
2. definitely inspect callipers. I did and found that one side was frozen and could not remove the nuts. Had to take it to get heated and re lubed. All good now. My clips were fine, i did not see anything wrong or rust.
3. No bearings on rear end if i recall.
4. ?

Be VERY careful with the lug bolt/nuts. They require little torquing and you can easily snap them off if you use to much...ask me how i know this x2's

 

[CharlieS]

Plain smooth rotors are fine, and more cost effective. Don't replace calipers unless you need to. The brakes on the pigs are pretty robust, except as you noted, the bell cranks. I went with Autozone Wearever pads last time I did the job, they stop fine, but are a bit grabby - I'd stick with factory pads. It's been a while, but I have some generic drum brake service tools that came in handy. Pay attention to the direction the adjuster star turns, I think it was opposite (one was up to tighten, the other was down to tighten) on the different sides of the rig.

 

[bucfl]

Also, there are you tube videos for brake and bearing repack on LC's. Its no different than any other brake job. Just post if you get stuck.

 

[abuck99]

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Julian Stead]

I thought I had sealed bearings on the rear of mine, do they need repacking?

 

[Sandroad]

You very likely will not need ebrake shoes. The rear wheel bearings are not a regular service item and don't need to be replaced unless causing a problem. I'll bet you'll be fine with new OEM pads and caliper pins on the main brakes and replacing the bell cranks on the ebrakes.

 

[badlander]

Check the threaded adjustment rod for the E-Brake. See if you can get it to turn ahead of time. Mine was frozen pretty bad but was able to get it freed up with heat. If yours is rusted check it out, you may need to order a replacement.

 

[2001LC]

I'm a few thousand miles from having to replace the rear brakes and have a few DIY questions.

2005 LC with 165,000 miles- (front rotors & pads replaced & brake system flushed 1200 miles ago)

1.) Rotors: Slotted or Smooth? I plan to replace the rotor & pads together. Is there any significant benefit to upgrading to a slotted rotor over a smooth rotor on a 100 ? ( I'm not planning any track days anytime soon) I believe that slotted rotors are great for street use, but smooth rotors generally maintain better braking power in offroad conditions, especially in wet or muddy conditions right? I like EBC products for rotors & pads, but open to other ideas.

2.) Calipers: inspect pistons, clean, lube pins, replace the retaining clips or replace the caliper at this mileage?

3.) Wheel Bearings: Do these need attention at regular brake change intervals? It seems involved to pull the axle to get at these; do I address this or leave them alone?

4.) E-brake Components: The e-brake is frozen ( bell cranks rusted) and Ive got service kit ordered to replace the brackets, boots, pins etc. I plan to replace the e-brake shoes as well. Am I missing something here? Any other parts in the Ebrake system to consider or replace?

If Im missing any other related rear brake maint. items, feel free to chime in. I am trying to have all the parts on hand ahead of time to hopefully get it back together same day.

I'd use same pad and rotor type/brand used or planning as fronts.

 

[abuck99]

You very likely will not need ebrake shoes. The rear wheel bearings are not a regular service item and don't need to be replaced unless causing a problem. I'll bet you'll be fine with new OEM pads and caliper pins on the main brakes and replacing the bell cranks on the ebrakes.

Thanks- good info.

 

[abuck99]

Check the threaded adjustment rod for the E-Brake. See if you can get it to turn ahead of time. Mine was frozen pretty bad but was able to get it freed up with heat. If yours is rusted check it out, you may need to order a replacement.

Thanks- That part is in pretty good shape- its the bell cranks that are toast.

 

[abuck99]

Started the rear brakes today and putting the calipers back together; got confused about the correct orientation of the brake pad retaining clips.

The FSM doesn't show a very clear orientation of the clips and I'm stumped- I should have taken a picture before I removed the old ones. Does this look correct? It's the only way these seem to fit but it the right side doesn't look right to me.

 

[2001LC]

I'm looking at the FSM. The longer lip on top looks correct for both sides. Like you've done on the right side of your picture. Next time leave one side in until done with other, works better to keep piston from coming out.

 

[abuck99]

01LC- Thanks- Noted your advice.

Are you looking at the exploded view BR27 in the FSM? Or on another page?

 

[2001LC]

Yep BR 27 of a 2004 FSM. Try it see if it fits nicely, like a puzzle.

 

[abuck99]

Thanks- will do

 

[2001LC]

http://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/07/rear-brakes-refurb-parts-list/
In this diagram it looks like you've got it right, but it's really hard to tell. I'll do some search to see If I can find a writ-up with pictures.
I've not disable mine as much as you've done, ever.

Hope someone will jump in here that really knows the proper orientation.

 

[PabloCruise]

Be VERY careful with the lug bolt/nuts. They require little torquing and you can easily snap them off if you use to much...ask me how i know this x2's

This ^^^

I did not take any pictures, but I had to pull my calipers to replace wheel studs when I went to rotate tires and found several seized lug nuts.

There is pretty much only one way you can put the pads and clips back in the calipers. They did a good job trying to make things idiot proof (at least I wasn't able to defeat their idiot proof measures).

 

[abuck99]

The only thing thats stumped me is the orientation of the retaining clips. My conventional thinking would say they both would retain on the same side of the brake pad. But since there are two different clip styles that go on the caliper, the only way the pad easily fits into the clips is with them offset. This is how I believe it is meant to fit- one side is held on top, the other held on the bottom.

 

[2001LC]

Here a shot of my 2001 DS rear: