CharlieS
GOLD Star
New filter every oil change for me.
DIY oil change?
- Thread starter Bhebert449
- Start date
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FinallyGotOne!
SILVER Star
Because I already have the compressor and other pneumatic tools. And...I am so sick of batteries and cords and chargers and changing battery standards and so on. Gonna stay old school until my compressor dies (it's only 24 years old)
My take:
I am so sick of kinked air hoses and hissing connectors and that noisy compressor that I have to remember to drain the tank, and so on. Air tools are dead to me.
Get a decent 4-5 Ah battery and you can go all day without charging. I've been exclusive to Makita 18V LXT batteries since 2005, so no new standards to worry about.
Just a portion of my collection that lives in the garage:
I am so sick of kinked air hoses and hissing connectors and that noisy compressor that I have to remember to drain the tank, and so on. Air tools are dead to me.
Get a decent 4-5 Ah battery and you can go all day without charging. I've been exclusive to Makita 18V LXT batteries since 2005, so no new standards to worry about.
Just a portion of my collection that lives in the garage:
I always do it myself. Had a dealer not change the oil filter one time during an oil change. I’m sure it’s because it’s. PITA to drop the skid plate. It usually takes me 45-60 min and I prefer to use the TRD oil filter.
bloc
SILVER Star
I would be a FAR less efficient mechanic without my 3/8 and 1/4 battery impact guns.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I really want some of those Milwaukee fuel tools, but I can't kill the collection of Makita 18v like @KLF has. I guess that's a good problem to have, since I have so many bare tools from this product family. The only downside is that the Makita batteries are pricy, so as they've died off, I've had a string of Amazon copies that keep me plugging along. The tools will probably outlive my wrenching years...
You can have any brand of cordless battery repacked. At a third of the price as a new replacement battery. Find a dewalt/makita/panasonic service center in your area. They will also do the brushes for pennies and a quick tune up. A lot of times your going to end up with a slightly stronger battery if you purchased it online or from Lowes or the Home Depot. The battery quality is a major cost. That is one reason you will see slightly different model numbers and different price points. Same drill with all the same features but it costs $100 more from the manufacture direct. They make them with a lower quality battery and bushings to sell on mass. Any way just have them repacked and save a ton for the upgrade.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Thanks. I didn't realize that was possible. Luckily I'm a pack rat and have all of my original batteries even though they are "dead". I'll have to see if I can find a place to do that work. Thanks again.
I bought all of my Makita tools from a specialty dealer that mostly sells to the trades. They aren't the big box store versions.
I bought all of my Makita tools from a specialty dealer that mostly sells to the trades. They aren't the big box store versions.
I'm up to 6 batteries now, and I always engrave the month/year into the top when I get new ones. One of my 3AH Makita batteries was purchased in 2008, and it's still going strong. I like that performance, it's not worth the risk to buy some hacked together pack.
Warning: minor rant follows... no disrespect intended.
Back on topic, I changed my oil today. Now, I do have a QuickJack for lifting the truck, and BudBuilt skids that have access panels for the drain plug and filter. But, I really don't think it's that difficult, in fact I think it's pretty darned easy on this truck. I didn't need any cordless tools. Except for the low temps today (upper 30's), I enjoy this small project. I have a Fumoto valve on the pan with the snap-on hose, and a drain hose for the filter. I actually really like this oil filter! I didn't spill a drop. I don't know WTF some of you ladies are whining about, but maybe just take your chances with Jiffy Lube if this is such a pain, or pay the lowest paid tech at the dealership and sit in the waiting room drinking bad coffee.
Warning: minor rant follows... no disrespect intended.
Back on topic, I changed my oil today. Now, I do have a QuickJack for lifting the truck, and BudBuilt skids that have access panels for the drain plug and filter. But, I really don't think it's that difficult, in fact I think it's pretty darned easy on this truck. I didn't need any cordless tools. Except for the low temps today (upper 30's), I enjoy this small project. I have a Fumoto valve on the pan with the snap-on hose, and a drain hose for the filter. I actually really like this oil filter! I didn't spill a drop. I don't know WTF some of you ladies are whining about, but maybe just take your chances with Jiffy Lube if this is such a pain, or pay the lowest paid tech at the dealership and sit in the waiting room drinking bad coffee.
This is a very helpful thread - thanks everyone. Although I have included maintenance for my first year, I'll be doing my own oil changes, particularly after hearing about the recirc door breakage risk, torque issues, etc. from the dealership. I've been driving leased vehicles (almost all with included maintenance at the dealership) for probably a decade or more now, so it's been a LOOOONG time since I did an oil change myself. My good friend owns a shop, however, so I'll be putting it up on one of his lifts and using his rolling oil catch pan/container, which should make things go smoother.
While it's up there I plan on removing the protective plate and working the KDSS bolts / hex screws to make sure they're not rusted / frozen. I have a 2018 LC200 - will I have the 5mm allen head (recessed) screws/bolts, or exposed "regular" hex head bolts?
I have the Jowett oil pan drain valve in hand, just waiting on the actual Jowett billet filter housings to come back in stock. Picked up 4 new TRD oil filters from the local Toyota dealership this morning, so all set on that front. I bought 9 quarts of Mobil 1 Extended Performance full synthetic at AutoZone yesterday. WOW that stuff is expensive - I paid $35.99 for the 5 quart jug, and $11.49 for each of the 4 x 1 quart singles. Did I pay too much?
While it's up there I plan on removing the protective plate and working the KDSS bolts / hex screws to make sure they're not rusted / frozen. I have a 2018 LC200 - will I have the 5mm allen head (recessed) screws/bolts, or exposed "regular" hex head bolts?
I have the Jowett oil pan drain valve in hand, just waiting on the actual Jowett billet filter housings to come back in stock. Picked up 4 new TRD oil filters from the local Toyota dealership this morning, so all set on that front. I bought 9 quarts of Mobil 1 Extended Performance full synthetic at AutoZone yesterday. WOW that stuff is expensive - I paid $35.99 for the 5 quart jug, and $11.49 for each of the 4 x 1 quart singles. Did I pay too much?
bloc
SILVER Star
I wouldn’t run extended performance. Just get regular m1 or pennzoil platinum in the viscosity you like, whichever is cheaper, and change it at 5k.
Also I plan to put a thread together on this but will not be running TRD filters any time soon. The last few I’ve gotten haven’t been square.. kind of parallelogram shaped, and while I’m not sure it is causing sealing issues at the top and bottom oring I can’t rule it out. Check yours carefully to see if they have the same defect. To be honest regular filters are more than good enough.
Your 18 should have the 8mm external heads but be prepared for 5mm internal in case you got a weird one. Working on the KDSS screws on the lift is fine, but they need to be closed with the vehicle at ride height on level ground. If it’s a 2-post lift you’ll need to back it up and roll around a bit to get the suspension settled before closing them. 4-post should be fine to do it all in the air. 10ft-lb or even better 120in-lb.
Very helpful - thanks. On your advice I will NOT screw with the KDSS bolts while it's up in the air - maybe just remove the skid plate and inspect / photograph. I will check the TRD filters I bought tomorrow for dimensional integrity. I wonder who makes them for Toyota?
bloc
SILVER Star
It’s just fine opening them on the lift, just make sure they don’t get closed again until the truck is at ride height. Totally fine to set it down and drive it around a little with them open (NOT MORE THAN THREE THRNS), but keep in mind the bars are disconnected with the screws loose, so no driving where you might need to do an emergency maneuver. Then get the truck on flat ground and close them to the torque spec.
Not sure about the filters.. if you put one onto the filter tube in the housing cap and the tube doesn’t stay centered in the filter.. it’s not square. I’ll try to get something to measure the right angle and some pics and put that thread together.
Message received and understood - thanks again. Amazing how specialized the knowledge is around this system - my mechanic friend, who owns and runs his own respected independent shop and does a ton of Toyota work, doesn't know almost anything about KDSS. He probably doesn't see any LCs in the ordinary course of business, but I know he sees a lot of 4Runners - presumably some of these will have KDSS, no?
bloc
SILVER Star
Yes he probably does, but even then KDSS is only on a subset of the 4runners produced. Even the TRD Pro doesn’t have it, only the off-road trim just below that, if I remember correctly. Now compare sales numbers to total US 200 series cruisers…
Also while the 4Runner is functionally similar there are some differences in operation. The same tool is needed to bleed their system as ours, for instance.. but the way KDSS goes about doing it’s thing with the bars on a 200 is more elegant, expensive, and robust.
Buy oil by the 5 quart jug at Walmart. It’s like $28/jug for M1 synthetic. Also, only use OEM filters.
Wondering what everybody's thoughts are on this dealio? Gimmick?
I find it hard to believe that this is really an issue. I'm definitely not tossing $200 at it.
I find it hard to believe that this is really an issue. I'm definitely not tossing $200 at it.
