DIY 2000 LC Timing Belt Change (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

LOL beerock. I wasn't over my head. I've done this type of work many times. I just finished rebuilding a camry V6 that had a burnt valve. I'm just a little less "delicate"

2001LC, I just went out to try to rev it up to 3000 RPM and the gauge still does not move at all from 'L' which just seems really weird given I can get it to go to 'H' by grounding the signal wire at the sensor. I'll check the sensor connector itself to see if it is not making contact. I've ordered a new sender just in case.

I suppose sending unit may have bit the dust at same time. But if it worked before TB job it should now. The fact you cut wire leads me to believe thats your issue.

I learned a bit when doing my knock sensor wire splice. Thanks to mud and some basic video really help my job go smoothly. Being I'd pulled intake to do job, I made sure to do right the first time I spend a week learning how, than another getting what I needed.

I learned I'd been splicing wrong all my life.

 

[beerock]

I'm not sure about this but its possible the internal copper wires have a coating on all the strands which makes splicing them difficult without scraping off the coating and then in that situation you need to solder then otherwise you can run into an intermittent gauge

 

[2001LC]

I can tell you the knock sensor wire does not have individual coats on each strand. So no reason to think any others would. But it is very import every wire strands be connected with/and solder.

 

[davemac2]

So tonite i took the wire off the sender and instead added a 33 ohm resistor to ground on the signal wire to the gauge and checked the oil gauge on the cluster. It did not move off L at all. The resistor was getting hot too so I know there was current there. Yet the gauge needle will go to 'H' if that same wire is directly grounded. I'm pretty sure the gauge should respond to a 33 ohm resistor. That's pretty low for any oil sender resistance range. I have no idea what this LC oil sender range is. However I think the gauge is hosed. Either the gauge coil(s) got damaged or the needle bent or something because of the short from the harness damage. Not a very robust design. I guess it's time to take out the instrument cluster and have a look at it.

 

[beerock]

So tonite i took the wire off the sender and instead added a 33 ohm resistor to ground on the signal wire to the gauge and checked the oil gauge on the cluster. It did not move off L at all. The resistor was getting hot too so I know there was current there. Yet the gauge needle will go to 'H' if that same wire is directly grounded. I'm pretty sure the gauge should respond to a 33 ohm resistor. That's pretty low for any oil sender resistance range. I have no idea what this LC oil sender range is. However I think the gauge is hosed. Either the gauge coil(s) got damaged or the needle bent or something because of the short from the harness damage. Not a very robust design. I guess it's time to take out the instrument cluster and have a look at it.

didnt you say you ordered a new oil sender? if you didnt get it yet why not wait for it to come in before you take the cluster out? unless you already installed it and it did the same thing?

 

[davemac2]

I did order a new sender and I will wait beerock, but I'm about 90% sure it is the gauge now. I've seen some text in some of the diagnostics manuals that states that these gauges are easily damaged if shorted to ground for any extended period of time. New gauge from Toyota is $160. Used instr. cluster is $120 to $140 online. This is not high priority for now since I know it is only the gauge/sender and the truck is fine to drive as is. Does the 100 series have a separate low oil pressure switch/warning light?

 

[2001LC]

I did order a new sender and I will wait beerock, but I'm about 90% sure it is the gauge now. I've seen some text in some of the diagnostics manuals that states that these gauges are easily damaged if shorted to ground for any extended period of time. New gauge from Toyota is $160. Used instr. cluster is $120 to $140 online. This is not high priority for now since I know it is only the gauge/sender and the truck is fine to drive as is. Does the 100 series have a separate low oil pressure switch/warning light?

Sender is only warning I know of for oil pressure. You may want to test with pressure gauge. But 98% you're pressure is ok, if ok before TB job. Try a junk yard or parts rig for cluster, 00-02 should work.

 

[beerock]

I did order a new sender and I will wait beerock, but I'm about 90% sure it is the gauge now. I've seen some text in some of the diagnostics manuals that states that these gauges are easily damaged if shorted to ground for any extended period of time. New gauge from Toyota is $160. Used instr. cluster is $120 to $140 online. This is not high priority for now since I know it is only the gauge/sender and the truck is fine to drive as is. Does the 100 series have a separate low oil pressure switch/warning light?

you can always go old school and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood or route it into the cabin. I did that in my 383 22' donzi when the electric oil pressure unit failed as a back up and replaced the electric one as well

 

[davemac2]

you can always go old school and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood or route it into the cabin. I did that in my 383 22' donzi when the electric oil pressure unit failed as a back up and replaced the electric one as well

I'd rather keep it stock, although the truck is a 2000, so don't think it's worth much now. I don't know why no one sells a wireless oil pressure gauge.