DIY 1979 AC (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 19, 2010
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6
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115
Been working on this project the past few years and just wrapped it up today. Looking to drive to town tonight to give it a road test.
Wanting to keep stock look and function as much as possible. So I felt putting an evaporator in a home made duct that runs from the blower fan to the heater was
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the answer.
Built to hold a evaporator/expansion valve from the rear of a Lexus 450. Pick only because of its dimensions.
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Used hose barb ac fittings and then wire hose clamps. Really impressed with these but never used them on ac lines. Pressure checked system to 250psi and have no leaks looks like I'm good.
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Anyway, more Picts and info on build if anyone is interested.

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Very interesting, I would have never guess that type of clamp would do the high side AC. The only AC Elsie has is windows down and vents open - perhaps spark plugs at some time.

Like DIY people. Just buying stuff at the store doesn't teach you anything.
 
Very interesting, I would have never guess that type of clamp would do the high side AC. The only AC Elsie has is windows down and vents open - perhaps spark plugs at some time.

Like DIY people. Just buying stuff at the store doesn't teach you anything.
Yes, I worried having never used them on AC but it's amazing what you can do with too much time and some safety wire.
 
Well made it to town say 85°
What I learned is fan on high and temp switch to coldest - if your in the sun you want a little more ac. Temp at vent ducts is 35 to 37°.
If your going away from sun or in shade you will want to turn fan down or temp warmer.
Old habits +25 years are hard to quit as we came out of store and imeditly rolled windows down.
Happy with AC build but hadn't considered having to listen to the fan running on high. Perhaps new bushings and balancing are in order
for the 44 year old fan?
 
Happy with AC build but hadn't considered having to listen to the fan running on high. Perhaps new bushings and balancing are in order
for the 44 year old fan?


I think I remember a thread somewhere about using a newer fan out of something, and using a 3D printed fan?
 
Awesome.. this was exactly my plan... seemed like it would be easy with the 40 duct work.... I'm really surprised that no no has put together a simple duct kit to do this.. any more pics on how you built the duct work? And internals? I was thinking of using one of the rear AC units from a Sienna van.
 
If you modified the duct I'm sure it wouldn't be difficult to put a newer fan motor that pushes more air and is quieter. Great work.
 
I think I remember a thread somewhere about using a newer fan out of something, and using a 3D printed fan?
Thanks for the heads up.
I will be looking for the thread
 
Awesome.. this was exactly my plan... seemed like it would be easy with the 40 duct work.... I'm really surprised that no no has put together a simple duct kit to do this.. any more pics on how you built the duct work? And internals? I was thinking of using one of the rear AC units from a Sienna van.
The duct work I made from a hot wire cut foam male plug then covered with fiberglass. Old school?
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Cut access door after the fact to allow insertion of evaporator, expansion valve and AC lines that go through to front of firewall.
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Made the hard lines that run through firewall.
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Used aluminum brazing/sweating rod for the joints as I lack confidence Tig welding aluminum. Worked great for three of the joints but on the input of the high pressure side had contaminates that I chased around.
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This brazed contaminated joint held 80psi. But not 250psi. Switched to Tig and ended with this embarrassing glob. But it doesn't leak.

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If you modified the duct I'm sure it wouldn't be difficult to put a newer fan motor that pushes more air and is quieter. Great work.
Pondering my fan noise problem.
I remember now that the rear fan was always louder than the front one. This has changed as last night while driving I reached around to feel and make sure the rear was indeed running as you could not hear it.
So the only thing that has changed is the duct material but feel more important is the way I mounted the duct to the firewall.
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Note stainless Philips countersunk screws.
Felt this was a great way to support duct holding evaporator.

Solid, so easy noise transfer !!!!! Darn

Thinking I will look into this motor and see if I can get rid of the noise at the source.
 
Nice work. Thank you for the photos. That will definitely provide good solutions. I've been searching and looking at all the other options and I've wanted it to look as much OEM as possible. Your install definitely does that.

For the joints other option is to use the AC repair joints. I had to use two sets on my 100 series lines and these have worked really well. No leaks for couple of years. Also used something similar on my mini split install and have not had any issues on the connections. My tig and brazing would be much worse than yours...
 
Nice work. Thank you for the photos. That will definitely provide good solutions. I've been searching and looking at all the other options and I've wanted it to look as much OEM as possible. Your install definitely does that.

For the joints other option is to use the AC repair joints. I had to use two sets on my 100 series lines and these have worked really well. No leaks for couple of years. Also used something similar on my mini split install and have not had any issues on the connections. My tig and brazing would be much worse than yours...
Thanks for the heads up on the repair joints.
Wanted to add don't forget a drain for condensation
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under the evaporator.
 
I have one of those units myself. Was given to me years ago. I also have one of the defuser boxes that doubles the area of the grill above the heater.

What type of refrigerant does this new system use? The old evaporator is R12 with a Thermo expansion valve. Bought a refrigerator for the laundry room during Covid. I know R134A and R410A are both being replaced.
 
I have one of those units myself. Was given to me years ago. I also have one of the defuser boxes that doubles the area of the grill above the heater.

What type of refrigerant does this new system use? The old evaporator is R12 with a Thermo expansion valve. Bought a refrigerator for the laundry room during Covid. I know R134A and R410A are both being replaced.
Interesting idea on the diffuser, might help.
At this point wanting to see if I can quiet that motor down and if not then mount duct work to fire wall in rubber as it is obnoxious.
I am using 134a.
 
Interesting idea on the diffuser, might help.
At this point wanting to see if I can quiet that motor down and if not then mount duct work to fire wall in rubber as it is obnoxious.
I am using 134a.
Wanted to add your evaporator or thermal expansion valve will not care if it's R12 or 134A. But would be worried about whether the valve has lost its charge after all these years.
 
Wanted to add your evaporator or thermal expansion valve will not care if it's R12 or 134A. But would be worried about whether the valve has lost its charge after all these years.


is that Sanden brand Compressor ?

nice work there :)
 
Interesting idea on the diffuser, might help.
At this point wanting to see if I can quiet that motor down and if not then mount duct work to fire wall in rubber as it is obnoxious.
I am using 134a.

Not sure where Ican find a picture of the defuser. Mine is lost in the second garage currently. The one I have came off a RHD troopy which was probably a joke trying a cool it. I need to reverse engineer it. It probably about twice the size of the standard grill. Because of the handle to control the vent/heat/defrost on the driver's side it needs to be offset to the opposite side. I have a Borg Warner A/C compressor made in Japan mounted to an F engine. Three pieces together I think would probably work pretty good in an FJ45 pickup cab even in Arizona.
 
Not sure where Ican find a picture of the defuser. Mine is lost in the second garage currently. The one I have came off a RHD troopy which was probably a joke trying a cool it. I need to reverse engineer it. It probably about twice the size of the standard grill. Because of the handle to control the vent/heat/defrost on the driver's side it needs to be offset to the opposite side. I have a Borg Warner A/C compressor made in Japan mounted to an F engine. Three pieces together I think would probably work pretty good in an FJ45 pickup cab even in Arizona.
Sounds like you have a fun project ahead?
 

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