Distributor leaking through the cap....

[BILT4ME]

What shaft? On the distributor? It only has one shaft and it isn't really attached to the engine, it's right on top. If oil is leaking down below, that is a separate issue.

There is one o ring on the outside of the distributor housing that you are describing.

There is also an o ring internally to the distributor that seals the shaft to the INSIDE of the distributor housing. This one is not serviceable.

The distributor is known to leak externally And occasionally internally that fills the inside of the cap with oil.

The reason the FSM doesn't show it us because it's a non-serviceable part. I'm sure someone here has seriously attempted a rebuild, but unsuccessfully or extremely costly.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Not sure who that's directed to. But, if me, I'll be clearer. The o-ring does not seal the shaft. The shaft, btw, turns the rotor within the distributor housing. That's how the oil is getting into the distributor housing. Understand?

690, I didn't quote you, did I? Red Marie is the mud member that does not understand that there is another o-ring besides the one that seals the outside part of dizzy shaft.

 

[Mighty690]

690, I didn't quote you, did I? Red Marie is the mud member that does not understand that there is another o-ring besides the one that seals the outside part of dizzy shaft.

Ah, thanks, I guess I was being a little too defensive. My apologies.

 

[suadero]

The internal seal is part of the Toyota distributor housing PN 19235 66020 . I just got one for under $175 shipped.

What @Notch said. Buying the housing, packing, rotor and cap separately is cheaper than buying them together. And if you have oil inside the cap, you will need to replace the housing at a minimum. (NB my housing came with a new o-ring, the one that seals the dizzy into the engine.)

 

[Wayne]

Mighty690, you're correct. The shaft seal is leaking, not the housing o-ring (I've already changed the o-ring). Does anyone have any comments about the Cardone and Spectra distributor listed on Rock Auto?

 

[Mighty690]

Mighty690, you're correct. The shaft seal is leaking, not the housing o-ring (I've already changed the o-ring). Does anyone have any comments about the Cardone and Spectra distributor listed on Rock Auto?

A couple of people that know way more than I do about Land Cruisers have told me to keep the electrical system all OEM based on their experiences. So, maybe consider a good used part from one of the vendors here. (Any oil residue inside would indicate a used part's health.) The replacement is fairly simple so you wouldn't be over invested.

 

[Red Merle]

There is one o ring on the outside of the distributor housing that you are describing.

There is also an o ring internally to the distributor that seals the shaft to the INSIDE of the distributor housing. This one is not serviceable.

The distributor is known to leak externally And occasionally internally that fills the inside of the cap with oil.

The reason the FSM doesn't show it us because it's a non-serviceable part. I'm sure someone here has seriously attempted a rebuild, but unsuccessfully or extremely costly.

Ah, I see. I didn't understand what he was talking about.

 

[Funner]

Ah, I see. I didn't understand what he was talking about.

Clearly

 

[inkpot]

So, nobody has found a generic O ring that fits this? A good industrial supplier should be able to match it. Take a pick and pluck it out. Take the seal, shaft, and housing to a proper vendor and your done for $2 ??

 

[stkybgr]

@inkpot, can you take the shaft out of distributor housing? I thought I read another post on here somewhere that the gear is pressed on and not pinned.

 

[Notch]

Yes, people have serviced the factory distributor shaft seal. There are threads about it on this forum. I believe it's a sealed bearing or a bearing and a lip seal that would need replacing.

 

[inkpot]

@inkpot, can you take the shaft out of distributor housing? I thought I read another post on here somewhere that the gear is pressed on and not pinned.

Hmmm? Now ya got me. I can't remember. Think we have a spare on the shelf down @ the shop. I'll have to go look tomorrow.

 

[matty_sunn1]

Back in the day when I had my 86 mr2, the dizzy would leak internally and we would just put in new seals and bearing. The only issue is if the gear is pressed on vs pinned. Also to clear any confusion Hear is a guide for the 4age engine... Club4AG Toyota Sports Automobile Enthusiasts

 

[ScratchCoin]

How do you know which seal is leaking? My distributor cap is leaking from the bottom at the connection of the cap and the cap to head connection.

I want to have a plan of attack before I open it up, as best as possible.

 

[LandLocked93]

How do you know which seal is leaking? My distributor cap is leaking from the bottom at the connection of the cap and the cap to head connection.

I want to have a plan of attack before I open it up, as best as possible.View attachment 2728043

Take off the cap.
If there is oil inside, the shaft o-ring is perished. (internal to housing below)
If no oil inside, and the oil in the pic is actually coming from the hole in which the dizzy is housed in the head, the housing o-ring is perished. (black o-ring below)

Both are likely causes.
The shaft o-ring isn't worth the DIY, IMO.
I went with a dizzy on Amazon based on comments from others here on MUD. No issues in more than a year so far.
The housing o-ring is inexpensive and a 1 DIY job. - Just take a pic of the rotor position before you unbolt the dizzy. You'll need to match the position upon re-install.
edit: Oh and put cylinder one at TDC before removal.

 

[ScratchCoin]

Take off the cap.
If there is oil inside, the shaft o-ring is perished. (internal to housing below)
If no oil inside, and the oil in the pic is actually coming from the hole in which the dizzy is housed in the head, the housing o-ring is perished. (black o-ring below)
View attachment 2728072
Both are likely causes.
The shaft o-ring isn't worth the DIY, IMO.
I went with a dizzy on Amazon based on comments from others here on MUD. No issues in more than a year so far.
The housing o-ring is inexpensive and a 1 DIY job. - Just take a pic of the rotor position before you unbolt the dizzy. You'll need to match the position upon re-install.
edit: Oh and put cylinder one at TDC before removal.

Just to be clear:

oil on the outside of surface 1 is the serviceable o ring

oil inside the cap (item 2) is not serviceable

thanks in advance for dumbing it down! I’m new to wrenching and 80 ownership!

 

[Funner]

Just to be clear:

oil on the outside of surface 1 is the serviceable o ring

oil inside the cap (item 2) is not serviceable

thanks in advance for dumbing it down! I’m new to wrenching and 80 ownership!

View attachment 2728104

Yes

 

[Kernal]

I've taken one of these distributors apart; long story short it can be rebuilt but not without a lot of time, a very small gear puller, and a lot of attention to detail.

Also the original rotor shaft seal and the shaft bearing are unique designs that are not available as separate parts from Toyota or any other source AFAIK. Having said that, there are seals and bearings that are close and should work.

As far as the typical leaks: the most common leak that is outwardly visible is as mentioned above from the O-ring show in the photos on the narrow section of the housing sitting in a groove ("gland").

The minor leak that occurs internally is usually more of a seep that shows up under the cap when engine oil works it's way past the original internal shaft seal and bearing seal, flows out from under the reluctor ring, then drips out of the weep hole located at 6 O'clock on the distributor housing (as mounted). That leak IME is often very small and not a big issue, just clean out the distributor (under the cap) once or twice a year type thing.

There is a flat rubber gasket (Packing, Dust Proof) that sits between the distributor cap and the housing. It is not the cause of a leak per se. That Packing/gasket is available as a separate part if the original gets damaged.

One tip: do NOT use Carb or Brake cleaner to clean the internals of the distributor, those contain aggressive solvents that can damage the rotor and bearing seals which theoretically could make that internal leak worse.

I only use CRC Quick Dry (QD) Electonics cleaner or similar electonics safe cleaner because they don't contain Acetone or Toluene (which can damage thin rubber/plastic seals/components).

FWIW

 

[ScratchCoin]

I've taken one of these distributors apart; long story short it can be rebuilt but not without a lot of time, a very small gear puller, and a lot of attention to detail.

Also the original rotor shaft seal and the shaft bearing are unique designs that are not available as separate parts from Toyota or any other source AFAIK. Having said that, there are seals and bearings that are close and should work.

As far as the typical leaks: the most common leak that is outwardly visible is as mentioned above from the O-ring show in the photos on the narrow section of the housing sitting in a groove ("gland").

The minor leak that occurs internally is usually more of a seep that shows up under the cap when engine oil works it's way past the original internal shaft seal and bearing seal, flows out from under the reluctor ring, then drips out of the weep hole located at 6 O'clock on the distributor housing (as mounted). That leak IME is often very small and not a big issue, just clean out the distributor (under the cap) once or twice a year type thing.

There is a flat rubber gasket (Packing, Dust Proof) that sits between the distributor cap and the housing. It is not the cause of a leak per se. That Packing/gasket is available as a separate part if the original gets damaged.

One tip: do NOT use Carb or Brake cleaner to clean the internals of the distributor, those contain aggressive solvents that can damage the rotor and bearing seals which theoretically could make that internal leak worse.

I only use CRC Quick Dry (QD) Electonics cleaner or similar electonics safe cleaner because they don't constain Acetone or Toluene (which can damage thin rubber/plastic seals/components).

FWIW

Is this the “O s***” variety of leak or “wipe it and roll”? It’s 100% leaking from the non serviceable seal, but how do you know when to replace I guess is what I’m asking. Im not sure what qualifies as a slow leak, but every time the cruiser has been sitting a while, I see the spot on the belt.

 

[Funner]

View attachment 2730894View attachment 2730895
Is this the “O s***” variety of leak or “wipe it and roll”? It’s 100% leaking from the non serviceable seal, but how do you know when to replace I guess is what I’m asking. Im not sure what qualifies as a slow leak, but every time the cruiser has been sitting a while, I see the spot on the belt.

It’s a nuisance but not likely to cause a breakdown. If I was going out on an epic adventure I would replace it. I think the only real issue you are facing is a potential engine misfire, engine light, and small oil drips, belts could possible slip for a bit for a second, but it’s obvious you don’t care about belts looking at the ones you are running