Way to many parts that are to heavy. WouldCan anyone confirm is these are still coming LTL? Looks like they could ship UPS in a couple boxes and save some $$
Take 10 boxes at least.
Dissent offroad 80 series modular bumper interest
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Take 10 boxes at least.
The dissent bumpers I've put together could easily have been 3 boxes. If it's a rear with all of the addons, I totally agree. But a base bumper, with no bullbar or no swingouts... I bet 3-4 boxes easy.
I've had multiple sets of sliders delivered UPS
Thanks for posting this update. Hit the same roadblock and Dissent still has the prototype instructions on their site. It looks like they updated the combo light mounting as well for anyone interested.
Trusty Rusty
SILVER Star
Anyone have suggestions on where to locate/tap the brake, turn, reverse lighting from the factory system for the 3-way combo lights? Trying to avoid tapping directly off of each tail light and would prefer grabbing wiring from somewhere inside the cabin, just haven't had much luck (or spent a ton of time hunting yet).
I went through the install docs available online but generally don't cover the combo lights (at least the PDF's I downloaded...).
Thanks!
I went through the install docs available online but generally don't cover the combo lights (at least the PDF's I downloaded...).
Thanks!
There is a junction plug under the back tailgate where people plug in trailer wiring harnesses where the wires and the plugs are already outside where you will need them to wire the lights for your bumper.
Here it is. I used a trailer wiring harness to splice in using plugs in place of vampire clips.
Trusty Rusty
SILVER Star
Appreciate the response, going to drop you a PM in hopes of not entirely hi-jacking this thread.
Which harness did you use?
Hopkins Towing Trailer Connector Set 48 in. Vehicle Side 4 Flat, 48205 - Walmart.com
Buy Hopkins Towing Trailer Connector Set 48 in. Vehicle Side 4 Flat, 48205 at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
Nothing special I just wanted the color code wiring. I had one left over from another wiring job so it wasn't really wasteful for me. I didn't use anything else from it. Also it's only a couple feet that you use so you could just find 4 wires in any bundle you want. However these wires actually have the function written on each one along with the color so you can eyeball it later without tracing wires if you have an issue.
If you are talking about the plug-in Tail Light Converter: Combines brake and turn signals for trailer compatibility... that is probably hopkins or something from etrailer but you just want to find one that is plug-in and has the converter.
Actually read this
How to wire a 4 or 7 pin trailer connector and backup camera without splicing/cutting factory harness.
I thought I'd share how I wired my trailer connector and backup camera because I haven't seen anyone else use the factory plugs to their fullest potential. I did this on my HDJ81 but this will work for any 80 series. What you'll need for a flat 4 connector w/ backup camera: (1) Tekonsha wiring...
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I wired up my rear bumper today. I searched for a definitive how-to thread and this is the closest I could find... I can add a little bit of info here now that I've spent like 5 hours on this... after spending a bit of time poking around the plugs underneath I wasn't able to find a reverse light so I just went to the taillight for that.
The harness going to the DS taillight is pretty easy to get to, just take off the cover plate, take out the jack, the tools, etc. Then find the largest of the two plugs that's going to the tail light.
Upper left (red/black) wire is the reverse light +.
Upper right (green with silver dots) is the running light.
Poke a wire up the drain grommet, then connect it to the reverse and running light wires to jumper those feeds down to your lights below.
The harness going to the DS taillight is pretty easy to get to, just take off the cover plate, take out the jack, the tools, etc. Then find the largest of the two plugs that's going to the tail light.
Upper left (red/black) wire is the reverse light +.
Upper right (green with silver dots) is the running light.
Poke a wire up the drain grommet, then connect it to the reverse and running light wires to jumper those feeds down to your lights below.
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Underneath are two small black plugs towards the passenger side. One of them has two green wires, the green wire with yellow tracer is the right turn signal. Green wire with silver dots is left turn signal.
On the other plug, the green wire with silver dots is the brake light. Tap the red and black one for a ground if you want. Or use the big common ground in the middle of the body, which is what I went for
Here's everything put together, before it gets buried in loom, tape, and zip ties..
I think the most confusing was decoding all of the colors... but I figured it all out, here's the decoder list using the wire taps mentioned above. I also wired up the license plate light, and a positive feed for a reverse camera.
My bumper lights all function perfectly. And my trailer lights all work as well, everything except the brake lights. To make those work I need to get one of those converter boxes, as mentioned above. Like this one:
And then probably disconnect the blue wire for the 7-pin harness, as that should be connected to a brake controller (it doesn't switch on the brake lights). But I don't have a brake controller and none of my current trailers have brakes and if I had to tow a big trailer I'd just take the Tundra
Hope this helps the next person!
On the other plug, the green wire with silver dots is the brake light. Tap the red and black one for a ground if you want. Or use the big common ground in the middle of the body, which is what I went for
Here's everything put together, before it gets buried in loom, tape, and zip ties..
I think the most confusing was decoding all of the colors... but I figured it all out, here's the decoder list using the wire taps mentioned above. I also wired up the license plate light, and a positive feed for a reverse camera.
My bumper lights all function perfectly. And my trailer lights all work as well, everything except the brake lights. To make those work I need to get one of those converter boxes, as mentioned above. Like this one:
And then probably disconnect the blue wire for the 7-pin harness, as that should be connected to a brake controller (it doesn't switch on the brake lights). But I don't have a brake controller and none of my current trailers have brakes and if I had to tow a big trailer I'd just take the Tundra
Hope this helps the next person!
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That's exactly how I wired mine minus whatever is going on in that last picture with the rodent-chewed wires. lol Sorry Tim, I had to.
I didn't have my 80 at work last week so I couldn't check for you. 
That said, Vince is working on wiring diagrams to help customers in the future.
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Yeah I was waiting for that comment, lol. but my method for tapping into factory wires has been working well for me, so I keep doing it, though there's probably a more elegant solution out there. But this works, even if there's only an inch or so of wire available.... basically with the utility knife I'll shave off the insulation from the wire, but don't actually cut the wires. Then poke the blade into the wires to separate it, then the new wire gets fed into that slot and wrapped around.That's exactly how I wired mine minus whatever is going on in that last picture with the rodent-chewed wires. lol Sorry Tim, I had to.
So a little more intrusive than a t-tap connector, but in my experience has been more reliable as it can't really jiggle loose, and the contact area is much larger compared to the plastic things. For extra credit I'll even dab a little solder on there sometimes, prior to wrapping it up in electrical tape.
Not going to argue that. T-taps can sometimes cut the original wire and interupt the flow if too many strands are cut.Yeah I was waiting for that comment, lol. but my method for tapping into factory wires has been working well for me, so I keep doing it, though there's probably a more elegant solution out there. But this works, even if there's only an inch or so of wire available.... basically with the utility knife I'll shave off the insulation from the wire, but don't actually cut the wires. Then poke the blade into the wires to separate it, then the new wire gets fed into that slot and wrapped around.
View attachment 4117072
So a little more intrusive than a t-tap connector, but in my experience has been more reliable as it can't really jiggle loose, and the contact area is much larger compared to the plastic things. For extra credit I'll even dab a little solder on there sometimes, prior to wrapping it up in electrical tape.
@reklund5 I've searched for the plugs so that I could make a harness. Could you share what you have found.
If memory serves, Stop, LT, RT, Tail and Reverse are all in those two plugs under the vehicle in the rear. Looking at the EWD I found that those should be:
Green wire: Taillight
Green/White wire: Stop
Red/Black wire: Reverse
Green/Black: LT
Green/yellow: RT
I was able to order plugs and connectors from Eastern Beaver and make my own wires up that plugged right in.
The only downside is that the factory plugs aren't weatherproof. One could easily upgrade to Sumitomo or Yazaki connector with weather seals if you live in a humid environment.
Green wire: Taillight
Green/White wire: Stop
Red/Black wire: Reverse
Green/Black: LT
Green/yellow: RT
I was able to order plugs and connectors from Eastern Beaver and make my own wires up that plugged right in.
The only downside is that the factory plugs aren't weatherproof. One could easily upgrade to Sumitomo or Yazaki connector with weather seals if you live in a humid environment.
Thank you! I've managed to not cut into my OEM harness and want to make my own. Probably would be better to switch to a Deutsch plug of sorts.If memory serves, Stop, LT, RT, Tail and Reverse are all in those two plugs under the vehicle in the rear. Looking at the EWD I found that those should be:
Green wire: Taillight
Green/White wire: Stop
Red/Black wire: Reverse
Green/Black: LT
Green/yellow: RT
I was able to order plugs and connectors from Eastern Beaver and make my own wires up that plugged right in.
The only downside is that the factory plugs aren't weatherproof. One could easily upgrade to Sumitomo or Yazaki connector with weather seals if you live in a humid environment.
Save the German connectors for German cars ha ha ha! Yazaki or Sumitomo plugs are readily available from Corsa Technic, if your version of OCD is like mine and you wanna keep it all Japanese.
That said, there is ZERO concern using a nice Deutsch connector in that application. Anything is an upgrade over those old school unsealed plugs.
