It's for the adjustment piece. Helps help the tire in place. Looks like a little pizza slice
Dissent off-road no cut rear bumper installation instructions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter benc
- Start date
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Should use the shorter bolts for the back ones I believe
Got the tire side done, what a chore. Starting the jerry can side but I may not do it because my trip on the T.W.A.T. starts in the morning and I have a lot of other things to do. Plus there are a thousand more bolts and I can’t find instructions on how to put the can brackets together. Yeah, I can fiddle around and figure it out, but having a decent set of instructions would save a lot of time. For almost $3000 some things should be a bit clearer and less puzzle-ish. Do both of the latch handles come with the sleeve washers? One did not have any and instead just four standard plastic washers.
Also in regards to the previous, went to edit but accidentally deleted, on that note there should be the same configuration for the other swingout but there are not two short bolts in that bag.
Also in regards to the previous, went to edit but accidentally deleted, on that note there should be the same configuration for the other swingout but there are not two short bolts in that bag.
Know how to prevent this ? @benc
Basically the pic shows the powder coat being scraped off the bumper (grey section by the strut nut) as well as the striker plate being marred by the weight on the swing arm.
I was at HIH9 and know I am not the only person dealing with this.
I understand there is a small hex button bolt by the spindle but frankly it is worthless as it slides with weight on the arm.
BTW I carry 285/75/18 Toyo RT on a factory rim a combo Ben had at one point.
Look forward to any suggestions
Basically the pic shows the powder coat being scraped off the bumper (grey section by the strut nut) as well as the striker plate being marred by the weight on the swing arm.
I was at HIH9 and know I am not the only person dealing with this.
I understand there is a small hex button bolt by the spindle but frankly it is worthless as it slides with weight on the arm.
BTW I carry 285/75/18 Toyo RT on a factory rim a combo Ben had at one point.
Look forward to any suggestions
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benc
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #29
If you can post a pic of the pad on the swing arm that would help.
The striker pad Is stainless and there as a drag pad. This should not have been coated, it’s will not rust and isn’t going to hurt being coated but it will scratch up. The top adjustment washer is not there to hold the swing arm in place but only there to hold it in place while tightening the hinge bolt. If the hinge is moving on you the hinge bolt is simply not tight enough.
Awesome @benc this is very helpful and I'll give tightening the hinge bolt a try. I'll also post a pic of the swing arm when I can and follow up in email.
By the way I was the guy that approached you after the raffle for help. I know you were glad to help but it was late and silly to troubleshoot in the dark.
The next day we crossed paths (hard to miss the awesome orange 200) on 550 as I left Silverton around 1pm or so.
No shade or anything intended here, I just know one other person (not everyone) needs this information as well and it wasn't clear on how to adjust in the instructions.
whirlybirdbrewing
SILVER Star
Just finished my install a week ago and everything went on without a hitch except the gas strut install.
I wasted some time with the futile endeavor of trying to compress them by hand to get them to fit on the balls because I'm an idiot.
This is what I was working with:
After talking to @benc, he told me to move the ball to the outer hole (right hole in the picture), keep it loose (no nut installed), pop out the lower zerk fitting on the arm, and remove the outer bumper so the swing arm can fully extend.
Once I did all this, it was easy to connect the strut to the ball, tighten the ball, then reinstall the rest of the items.
Just like the front bumper (and the skid plates), this thing is brilliantly engineered. Thanks to @benc for putting together such a good product and providing support along the way for those less mechanically inclined.
I wasted some time with the futile endeavor of trying to compress them by hand to get them to fit on the balls because I'm an idiot.
This is what I was working with:
After talking to @benc, he told me to move the ball to the outer hole (right hole in the picture), keep it loose (no nut installed), pop out the lower zerk fitting on the arm, and remove the outer bumper so the swing arm can fully extend.
Once I did all this, it was easy to connect the strut to the ball, tighten the ball, then reinstall the rest of the items.
Just like the front bumper (and the skid plates), this thing is brilliantly engineered. Thanks to @benc for putting together such a good product and providing support along the way for those less mechanically inclined.
Ben's front bumper is a work of art but he really stepped it up with all the features on this rear bumper. I couldn't be happier!
Any other aluminum rear owners out there make it through install? I'm curious about the underside hitch bolts and thinking with aluminum it might be just a tad different with the thicker material. Mine seem to have run out clearance under the frame, but there's a chance I'm just missing something simple. Before I break out a drill and solve it with some brute force, figured I'd check with you all. Got a email out to Ben, but figured someone here might also have a quick answer.
Yep same exact problem. I wasn't able to get the two in.
OK. Out comes the drill/dremel/grinder!
*Edit just talked to Ben. He's got a jam nut and shorter bolt that alleviate that issue on the aluminum bumpers. I'll step away from the grinder for now and wait for that hardware and report back!
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It was a PITA, but I got it in. If I remember, I had to use something for leverage to open up the space a little. Hardest part for me was getting a wrench on it. Definitely had to muscle it.
Follow up to my issue: Ben came through amazingly quick. He sent out a jam nut and shorter bolt. It worked perfectly. @froto1 you might want to reach out to Ben and get those bolts/nuts. You can install them with the hitch fully assembled. It's a tight space, but can be done without too much hassle.
Do you know the size of the new hardware? I'm about to finish installing the same bumper on my truck.
