Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX) (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter radman
- Start date
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foolforthecity
SILVER Star
I bought a step bit but did not need it. I used petroleum jelly to help slide the sensors in. Granted this was on a '21 LC not an LX but I can't imagine they use different size sensors?
Finished installing front bumper on 2018 LX, pretty straightforward as others mentioned:
0) I was worried about identifying bolt/nut/washer, that's not really an issue. There are enough pictures here to identify them and you can pretty confidently tell apart anyway. [Note: This turns out to be a hard lesson for me with rear bumper. Please do identify/sort/count the hardware by size, including the washers, so you don't mix them up]
1) you start with cutting the bumpers and removing factory tow point, skids etc. Much easier than the instruction which asked you to remove bumper.
2) In my experience, you can merely install the bumper at its lowest possible position (see picture 1, 2, 3). In pic 3, i couldn't screw the tie-in plate to the bumper; i guess thats fine.
3) Use anti seize on stainless steel, or you can really "screw up" (picture 4); but if you do, just keep tightening it and it will snap off (surprisingly easy) and get new screws (I didn't bother to ask Ben, just ship overnight from Amazon)
4) As mentioned in #190, stock foglight has 4 wires. Ignore the thinner green/pink; use the other green and white (ground). These are 20awg, much thinner than those on rigid wire harness, but should be good enough to support 1amps
0) I was worried about identifying bolt/nut/washer, that's not really an issue. There are enough pictures here to identify them and you can pretty confidently tell apart anyway. [Note: This turns out to be a hard lesson for me with rear bumper. Please do identify/sort/count the hardware by size, including the washers, so you don't mix them up]
1) you start with cutting the bumpers and removing factory tow point, skids etc. Much easier than the instruction which asked you to remove bumper.
2) In my experience, you can merely install the bumper at its lowest possible position (see picture 1, 2, 3). In pic 3, i couldn't screw the tie-in plate to the bumper; i guess thats fine.
3) Use anti seize on stainless steel, or you can really "screw up" (picture 4); but if you do, just keep tightening it and it will snap off (surprisingly easy) and get new screws (I didn't bother to ask Ben, just ship overnight from Amazon)
4) As mentioned in #190, stock foglight has 4 wires. Ignore the thinner green/pink; use the other green and white (ground). These are 20awg, much thinner than those on rigid wire harness, but should be good enough to support 1amps
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5) Peel off the parking sensor retainer and reuse; i feel it's much easier and holds the sensor safer. (tip: just let it sit on a thin layer of goo gone overnight, the original sticky tape will come off easily, and you can use 3m double edge tap to stick to the bumper inserts)
6) The transmission cooler shroud: a) you don't have to take it off as the instruction manual stated b) dont cut it too aggressively. The instruction manual directed you to cut diagonally on driver side, I blindly followed the same cut line. And I had to JB weld some portion back
6) The transmission cooler shroud: a) you don't have to take it off as the instruction manual stated b) dont cut it too aggressively. The instruction manual directed you to cut diagonally on driver side, I blindly followed the same cut line. And I had to JB weld some portion back
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If anyone is not using or not planning to use their rear sensors I could use them..
To clarify, this also means "Snug the two 7/16” bolts on the bottom of the center section to hold this position." in the "Final adjustment" section no longer applies? The enter section seems be held together by Flat SS screws only. @radman @benc
Separately, if i'm not installing any swingarms, I wonder if it's okay to just skip installing the two steel brackets behind the swingarm holes?
The newest version doesn't have the two bolts in the bottom center section. The plates behind the swingarms aren't absolutely necessary, if you will never have swingarms. I'd just install them anyways, to preserve the option (and avoid misplacing the parts) but probably not a big deal if you don't.
[EDIT: Ignore this suggestion, see next post] I would rewrite the above instruction as follows:
I was super confused with "Use 7/16” bolts/washers to temporarily hold the brackets"; I misread that as using whatever bolts (wasn't sensitive to the size differences) to use the holes meant for the 1/2" bolt to hold the bracket temporarily to install the 7/16 bolts. I ended up having the steel plates installed with just the 7/16" bolts; I did doubt what's the point of having the steel plates without them tied to anything behind but nevertheless rushed to mount the wing. I guess i'm too lazy to unmount the wing and install the 1/2" now.
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- Thread starter
- #410
you revision is out of order. the last step should be to lock the 2 plates together using 1/2" bolts @ 100ft/lb.
the point of inserting all the 7/16" bolts is to make sure they are centered and the plates aren't shifted to a location where the threads of the 7/16" will rub on the hole edges.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for clarifying. I guess my mind was fixated with "install" === "the 4x 7/16 bolts" rather than the 1/2" bolts. Maybe having an extra picture with only the 1/2" bolts for the first step will make the instruction clearer?
This weekend I towed my travel trailer with my dissent rear bumper for the first time. I am happy to report that the swingouts did not interfere with the trailer tongue jack or the propane bottles. Presently I have 33" tires, but 35" will be put on shortly.
For this tow, I bought a 14" shank (12" eye-to-eye), and installed it instead of my 12" shank (8" eye-to-eye). AHC performed well, but in the future, I'd like to move to the shortest possible shank.
When I bought the dissent rear bumper, I was concerned that I would need to remove the spare from the swingout to tow, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I believe that if I move my spare tire mount to the outmost lateral position (farthest to the driver side), I will be able to use my original 12" (8" eye-to-eye) shank. I may also buy a 10" eye-to-eye shank. I am also considering a Hensley hitch, which I expect would provide robust clearance.
For this tow, I bought a 14" shank (12" eye-to-eye), and installed it instead of my 12" shank (8" eye-to-eye). AHC performed well, but in the future, I'd like to move to the shortest possible shank.
When I bought the dissent rear bumper, I was concerned that I would need to remove the spare from the swingout to tow, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I believe that if I move my spare tire mount to the outmost lateral position (farthest to the driver side), I will be able to use my original 12" (8" eye-to-eye) shank. I may also buy a 10" eye-to-eye shank. I am also considering a Hensley hitch, which I expect would provide robust clearance.
- Thread starter
- #413
1) You don't need the spacers on the outside rubber bumpers. if you remove those, you'll get a wider open angle. The spacers are for the inside bumpers to make sure the swingarm doesnt wobble when closed.
2) what are all those caps you have on the bolt heads?
3) are you going to blank out your reverse lights?
I put the spacers/washers on the outside intentionally to limit the extension just enough to clear the gate.
Those are just plastic caps that I bought. I'm not too keen on the zinc coating look.
I am not going to blank out the reverse lights. Mine don't contact the bumper, probably as a result of the .5" body lift.
I battled the same issue with our camper. Being able to get inside the back of the cruiser while hitched was a must. I ended up having a new tongue build for my camper. Adding length there versus the e longer shank on the cruiser is far easier on tongue weight. The shorter you can go on that shank the better towing experience you will have.
Agreed, I'm aiming to optimize the tire-carrier to reduce shank length. I feel the 14" shank that I have right now is longer than ideal, and 4 inches (eye-to-eye) longer than my stock weight distribution hitch. The 12" that I have might work fine with the dissent and a bit of work on the tire-mount (specifically moving it to the out-most position...next on my to-do list). I'll also check clearance with a set of 35 x 12.5 tires that I have.
I'm impressed that I can open both swings, the hatch, and the tailgate while hooked up with the Dissent rear. I wanted to share this because prior to buying the Dissent rear, I wasn't sure that the tire carrier would clear the trailer. I figured I may have to dismount the spare tire to tow, or even remove the swings. Hoping this will help someone who is interested in the Dissent rear, but on the fence due to towing.
It dawns on me now that I may be able to flip the head of my trailer tongue jack 180 degrees while maintaining full functionality, so I might try that with a short shank too.
Looks like that buy you 6 inches or so, that will definitely make a difference.
Care to post pics of the truck overall with install complete?
