Disc Conversion/Knuckle Rebuild Parts Lined Up

[RWBeringer4x4]

Just because I was running through and making sure I had everything last night - I took some pictures. While the exploded view in the manual is nice, sometimes it helps to see the actual parts, and not an artists' rendition.

Most of these parts are from a 1989 FJ62, since that is the donor vehicle for the disc conversion, but the layout is primarily the same between 40's and 60's.

NOTE: The washers are not laid out properly here. The correct order is:

TOP/STEERING ARM:

Cone Washer
Flat Washer
Nut

BOTTOM/TRUNNION CAP:

Lock Washer
Nut

DONOR VEHICLE:
1989 FJ62 Land Cruiser
Knuckle Rebuild Kit from Cruiser Outfitters: P/N: FA7590TWB (Timken Wheel Bearings Bearings, Koyo Trunnion Bearings)
Nuts and bolts: retained from FJ62

Remanufactured FJ62 Caliper: NAPA P/N: SE1378, SE1377 (Left and Right)
Replacement Brake Rotors: NAPA P/N: 4885799
Brake Pads: NAPA P/N: D252A
Wheel Studs: RAYBESTOS 27729B (ordered from Rock Auto)
Backing Plate Delete Ring (Marlin) Cruiser Outfitters P/N: MCBPELIM

AISIN Locking Hub

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Now for 2 questions:

1. The rear felt/rubber seal retainers: I don't have them, and they didn't come in the rebuild kit - I'm assuming the ones on my 40 will be smaller pattern and thus non-compatible, so I should buy replacements, correct? Same with the metal ring that butts up against the knuckle - also missing/not supplied with rebuild kit.

2. The diagrams online show cone washers for the trunnion bearing cap as well as the steering arm - but there's no taper in the bearing cap for cone washers (nor were there enough cone washers). I'm assuming it's cone washers on top, and nuts, washers, and lock washers on the bottom?

 

[DPV7070]

1. Get yourself some lifetime wiper seals from Marlin Crawler. I love mine. I ended up getting new ones when I converted to 62 series knuckles since the inside kind of "wears to fit," and now is the time to do it.

2. Cone washers on top, none on the bottom. Also, Chase the threads for all your knuckle studs. Loc-tite and re-torque as required. I ended up getting new studs from Toyota with the torx heads. Really simple to install and torque correctly.

 

[DPV7070]

Oh, and have those wheel studs pressed in versus banging them in. You might crack that rotor...ask me how I know!

 

[71-CRUISER]

The half moon retainers for the felt are interchangeable and reusable from your drum brake setup.

You are also missing the metal split ring that goes between the knuckle and the rubber and felt rings at the back of the knuckle. You do not want to assemble without that piece or the rubber will have nothing to support it.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

1. Get yourself some lifetime wiper seals from Marlin Crawler. I love mine. I ended up getting new ones when I converted to 62 series knuckles since the inside kind of "wears to fit," and now is the time to do it.

2. Cone washers on top, none on the bottom. Also, Chase the threads for all your knuckle studs. Loc-tite and re-torque as required. I ended up getting new studs from Toyota with the torx heads. Really simple to install and torque correctly.

Thanks! I'll look into them - but seeing as I have the standard seals currently, I may just run them. For the amount of miles I put on this truck annually, the standard wipers may very well be liftetime!

@DPV7070 Is it JUST cone washers on the top (no washers/lock washers?

Oh, and have those wheel studs pressed in versus banging them in. You might crack that rotor...ask me how I know!

That's the plan! I had the old ones pressed out, I'll have the new ones pressed in. I've seen instances of cracked rotors, even WITH a press, so I'll be sure to be careful.

The half moon retainers for the felt are interchangeable and reusable from your drum brake setup.

You are also missing the metal split ring that goes between the knuckle and the rubber and felt rings at the back of the knuckle. You do not want to assemble without that piece or the rubber will have nothing to support it.

@71-CRUISER That's good to know - I guess I'll just pull them off my drum setup. What about the metal split ring? I realize it's missing (it's listed as not pictured, in the picture). Can I use the split ring on the drum brake setup as well, or is that "large pattern" specific.

 

[Stumpalama]

Contact Kurt @cruiseroutfit and make sure those pieces weren't supposed to be included. Every kit I've bought had all that included and seems very odd that you would get the rubber and felt without the metal ring and retainers.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Contact Kurt and make sure those pieces weren't supposed to be included. Every kit I've bought had all that included and seems very odd that you would get the rubber and felt without the metal ring and retainers.

I sent Kurt an e-mail this morning. That said, if you look at the pictures of the rebuild kits on his site, it appears that they may not be included. They are included in the wiper kit, but not the overhaul kit, it seems. I guess I'll get an answer soon enough. Does seem a bit odd though...Maybe since they are metal parts they are considered re-usable and thus unnecessary to provide new in a rebuild kit?

 

[Stumpalama]

I sent Kurt an e-mail this morning. That said, if you look at the pictures of the rebuild kits on his site, it appears that they may not be included. They are included in the wiper kit, but not the overhaul kit, it seems. I guess I'll get an answer soon enough. Does seem a bit odd though...Maybe since they are metal parts they are considered re-usable and thus unnecessary to provide new in a rebuild kit?

Yeah, I went there after posting and saw the same thing. The thing is, those metal parts are often toast by the time you get to this job. He does sell the wipers with rings and retainers separately. Though, it seems as if it should be clearer that these are not included and that they can be added when needed.

 

[71-CRUISER]

Yes the split ring is the same from drum to disk as well.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Tough to tell under all the grease, but I'm thinking my retainers, at least, might be salvageable.

 

[DomSmith]

Retainers and split rings should be fine to reuse. You'll be surprised how well the grease preserves them! Cone washer (4 per side), then lock washer, then nut hold the steering knuckle on from the top.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

@DomSmith - how about for the bottom. The picture at the top shows all the washers/lock washers/cone washers that I have. Is the trunnion cap on the bottom just held on with nuts/washers (no cones, no lock washers?)

@Stumpalama maybe you can answer that question too - since I didn't see how these were pulled off!

 

[Stumpalama]

Rick,

On the top knuckle it goes cone washer, flat washer, nut. On the bottom, it goes lock washer then nut.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Rick,

On the top knuckle it goes cone washer, flat washer, nut. On the bottom, it goes lock washer then nut.

Perfect, thanks!

 

[Vae Victus]

Thanks for doing this Rick!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Thanks for doing this Rick!

No problem! Still not as detailed as your stuff but I figure sometimes the actual parts are much clearer than the schematic drawings (at least to me)

UPDATED: To include locking hubs as well.

 

[DomSmith]

I just did one side of my axle last night and stump is correct on only flat washers on top of cone washers (top) to hold the steering arms on. This does not look to be correct in the current pic posted above.

It looks like the flat washers pictured on the bottom are the ones for the top?

Schematic looks great!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Rick,

On the top knuckle it goes cone washer, flat washer, nut. On the bottom, it goes lock washer then nut.

I just did one side of my axle last night and stump is correct on only flat washers on top of cone washers (top) to hold the steering arms on. This does not look to be correct in the current pic posted above.

It looks like the flat washers pictured on the bottom are the ones for the top?

Schematic looks great!

Bummer, I was so close! I added the correct orders to the top post, in case anyone ever uses these as a guide. Thanks for setting me straight!

 

[Stumpalama]

Hey look at that! I got one right. Go me.

When setting wheel bearing preload, I still use a fish scale. I know many people who say they just do it by feel, but I don't trust my "feel" to be calibrated between 6 and 10 lbs-ft. Since I am running larger tires, I tend to stay at the high end of the range since that seems to be where things tend to wind up.