Disc Conversion/Knuckle Rebuild Parts Lined Up

[Vae Victus]

No problem! Still not as detailed as your stuff but I figure sometimes the actual parts are much clearer than the schematic drawings (at least to me)

UPDATED: To include locking hubs as well.

Yes, I love your photos with labels!! These are a MUST have. Really helps straighten out the language.

Question: Where did you get your knuckle studs? Kurt? Also, does the "wheel hub" need new studs too?

Question: How does one clean up the caliper itself? Mine are really encrusted, and FSM says "DON'T disassemble the caliper." Hmmm.


(FYI, the FJ62 photo is much more blurry than the top one. Can you re-save in higher res and replace it? Really hard to make out some of the wording (especially when you are 47 and losing your eyesight).

smp/VV

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Yes, I love your photos with labels!! These are a MUST have. Really helps straighten out the language.

Question: Where did you get your knuckle studs? Kurt? Also, does the "wheel hub" need new studs too?

Question: How does one clean up the caliper itself? Mine are really encrusted, and FSM says "DON'T disassemble the caliper." Hmmm.


(FYI, the FJ62 photo is much more blurry than the top one. Can you re-save in higher res and replace it? Really hard to make out some of the wording (especially when you are 47 and losing your eyesight).

smp/VV

Hey VV - glad it's helpful.

The knuckle studs are stock, came attached to the knuckle. Apparently, Toyota now sells knuckle studs with a torx socket on the top for easy tightening. I have the part number at home, will get it for you tonight. Mine were in decent shape so I'll just use "double nuts" to torque them down (one is obviously loose, the rest probably aren't far behind).

I actually purchased the wheel studs from Rock Auto on wholesaler close-out for like $0.67 each. When I looked, it seemed like a lot of businesses (Dorman, Raybestos, etc.) were getting out of the studs for the FJ62. Because they are pressed THROUGH the rotor, they are a little odd - the knurled section is further down the (very long) shoulder, since the stud must pass through the rotor, and seats in the hub. Hopefully these will continue to be available, but I'm glad I bought them when I did, just in case.

I probably didn't need new wheel studs - the ones in the hub were in decent shape, but I figured they had served for 25 years through who-knows what, and they needed to be pressed out to replace the rotor anyway.

I'm not sure, but the 76 FJ40 setup may be different (bolted, not pressed) so check your setup before you order!

As for the blurry picture - it's more a lighting issue. The red doesn't show up as clearly on the second photo. If I get a second, I'll try to update the text to make it clearer and swap out the photos. I'll be in California for the next week though, so for the time being, you'll just have to squint

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Toyota Part Numbers for KNUCKLE studs

42323-60020 Washer, Cone
90170-12005 Nut, Hexagon
90126-12005 Stud, Hex Lobular (with torx head)

 

[abosely]

This thread is great! Very simple & visual making it easy to to understand.
I don't think I've seen that parts & components laid out like this.
What a nice idea!
Thx!
Allen

 

[DomSmith]

Great thread. If you're looking for suggestions to make it better...

Add the disc brake shield in the proper exploded view in the top pic. And orient the gaskets to the proper position (rotation). If you're going to retake the top pic for the washer differences noted earlier that is.

Nice work.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

This thread is great! Very simple & visual making it easy to to understand.
I don't think I've seen that parts & components laid out like this.
What a nice idea!
Thx!
Allen

Thanks Allen, happy to help!

Great thread. If you're looking for suggestions to make it better...

Add the disc brake shield in the proper exploded view in the top pic. And orient the gaskets to the proper position (rotation). If you're going to retake the top pic for the washer differences noted earlier that is.

Nice work.

Hey Dom,

Thanks for the suggestions, if I get some time to lay them all back out again, I'll give it a shot. I'm gonna try to at least re-do the text on the hub assembly picture so @Vae Victus's old eyes can read it. Unfortunately I've started reassembling a lot of this stuff so at this point, some of the parts would be missing...I'll have to see what I can reproduce.

Some of the stuff (like the fact that the disc brake backing plate is above the disc) is because I'm doing away with it in favor of the backing plate eliminator (which is laying where the backing plate should be). This is because, when I took these photos, they were primarily for my own reference. But I decided they looked kind of cool and might be useful! I totally agree with you on some of the other stuff from a "visual accuracy" perspective, but at the same time, I'd hope some of this stuff would be intuitive to someone rebuilding their own steering and brake components!

In short, a disclaimer: The FSM is STILL your #1 source for all things technical related to Toyota Land Cruiser maintenance and assembly.

Thanks for all the props, and suggestions everyone! I'm trying to update the first thread with any relevant information as I proceed, or you guys throw out the corrections.

 

[Vae Victus]

 

[MyTwoToys]

Thanks for the post folks this is a winter project that I will be taking on. I need to take more pics and post to help out others as well. I just tend to jump in and then think, I should have done that, so again, thanks for the pics. I am mechanically inclined, I am NOT a Mechanic.

 

[MyTwoToys]

So, just got my donor parts this past weekend out of a 1985 FJ-60. Here are the parts before I began to take them apart and then with them apart. I looked on line and found some Bendix Rotors from Summit Racing for $26.97 each which should be more than enough for how I will use them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ben-prt1510
Anyone have any other suggestions? Should I change the studs even though they look to be in good shape? Can I pound these back in or is there a way to press them? I think I have seen posts where people noted that they cracked hubs by pounding them back in. I will be working on cleaning and prepping these for the installation. Can someone tell me the best way to get the old bearings out of these? Again, any help is appreciated.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I used a press to knock the studs out, and press them back in. I would strongly recommend using a press, rather than pounding them in with a sledge. That said, you can just as easily crack the rotor with a press - if not more easily. Just make sure the rotor is supported evenly under the press.

An alternative to pulling new studs in that I've seen is to use a piece of pipe, or a socket, as a spacer. Put the stud through the rotor and hub, then add the spacer, then thread on a lug nut and start tightening it down. This will effectively "pull" the stud through.

Some say this second method will stretch/weaken the stud, so use at your own risk. The best option, by far and away, is a press.